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  1. I spent the best part of the weekend stripping down the chassis of my 1960 L/H drive 3a that I've recently acquired; something that is puzzling me is that in parts where I've been able to see the paint layers the original colour appears to be light blue. When I took off the engine mounts and steering box off these also had the same colour blue underneath them. I'm assuming that this is perhaps a primer layer but is it possible that some cars left the factory with different colours applied to the chassis or were a customer preference? I'm waiting for the vehicle trace records from Bill Piggott
  2. I am sure that there was a thread on this forum about an owner who had made splash panels in the back wheel arch, like the ones that seal the front wheel arch from the main body. It looks a bit more complicated than the front but I have time , with lock down, so I am interested. I have one rear wing off the car. I remember that a reply to the original post was a request for a template. But I can not find the post. Can anyone help with advice. Thanks Richard & B
  3. I have recently purchased a tr3a, that has been off the road since 1975. The Build records state that the car was supplied with competition springs and dampers when it left the factory. It also has a number of other sporting goodies including an inlet manifold that looks identical to the one shown in the old SAH adverts. The head also has been ported and is a different colour to the block. Did SAH put any identifying marks on their heads?
  4. I am about to start removing the front and rear wings. I have been soaking the screw headed bolts, under the wing with WD40 every day for the past week. Unfortunately I cannot shift the bolts even with and impact screw driver. Short of drilling them out or grinding the heads off has any one any tips?
  5. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  6. Today I started fitting the door interior trim panels and discovered how 'hand built' TRs were. the car is a TR3a and while the LH door is original the RH one is from another car, albeit one of similar age and with everything else identical. I carefully checked the back of each door to identify the correct holes for fixing the door cards and was surprised to find that although they are similar they are not the same. It would seem it depended on the person who was doing the fitting. In the end I based my drillings on a variety of photos that I have captured from this site over the
  7. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  8. Is there a way to improve the ride height at the back without removing/replacing the rear springs. ? My car is too low and the exhaust hits the speed bumps. There is no space between the wing edge and the top of the tyre when looking straight on from the side. The tyre is inside the wing. Any answers would be helpful. Thanks Richard & B
  9. The battery on my TR3a has finally given up the ghost after about 8 years. Because my car has been converted to negative earth and I like the terminals adjacent to the bulkhead, I use a code 068 battery which fits well. After a quick search on the internet I ended up with a Yuasa 3000 series battery (72 Ah, 630 amp) for £77 delivered from GSF car parts. It arrived next day and has a 4 year guarantee. New battery has now been fitted and is working fine. My only purpose in this post is to highlight the price and service from GSF. Rgds Ian PS My car is non standard
  10. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Fin
  11. In anticipation that those skanky mongrel carbs will go off for a rebuild (replacement), I have been writing my list to Santa. A phoenix exhaust to replace the beastly unsealed rally system is top of the list, as, with the carbs gone, the timing is opportune. This also seems like one job I could actually do myself without making everything worse - as is usually the case I have read the various threads about one v two box systems. My view is that with the hard top on much of the time, the existing system is way too loud (resonates in the cabin) and I am tempted by twin box behind
  12. Hi Guys I am thinking about bringing my TR3A to B.C. Canada but require to know what you have to do when the car is laid up for winter. Do you have your cars in heated garages? or what other preparations do you have to make? possibly put them up on axle stands to clear tyres off the cold concrete or steel floors. Thanks Dave
  13. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  14. I read an old post from Ian Cornish about him using Aluminium J section to make new rain channels for the TR3 hardtop.. Is it still available?Has anyone made any progress on getting a profile bent to shape?
  15. Hi guys I'm toying with the idea of fitting an electric fuel pump. Nothing too wrong with the old mechanical item, but having weighed up pros and cons I think I would like to try an electric pump. I have an old motorbike pump which does 900ml/min flowrate, which I think might be enough. It's low pressure, too, only for helping to shift the bottom bit of the tank into the carbs. Interestingly, it has a Mitsubishi symbol on the end of the pump, even though it came from a Honda. I want to try fitting it in the engine bay, and was thinking about taking power from the terminals on
  16. Hi, Anyone had trouble with the narrow fan belt water pump aluminium pulley? Mine was fitted less that a thousand miles ago by a well known TR specialist, and they either left the fan belt much too tight or the kit is flawed. The hole through the aluminium pulley has opened up to the point where it has completely lost drive and the pulley just rattles about on the pump shaft, sounding like a box of rusty spanners.
  17. Hi guys A few months back I posted about the rear ride height on my 3a being lopsided... can't find the original post now, but I thought i'd let you all know that I finally got around to looking into it and found what appears to be the cause... Two plates fitted between the axle and spring on the RHS, approx. 12mm total thickness, and nothing on the LHS... I removed the plates and found that the car sits fairly even now. Looking back at photos taken of the re-build, it looks like those plates may have actually started off being fitted to the LHS of the car. Anyway - she's si
  18. Hi guys I found the below little bolt in the engine bay, sitting near the spin on filter on a flange of the inner wing I think. I can't figure out where it's come from, but it is quite distinctive... small,. with an Allen head in one end of the bolt and a dimple on the other end... Seems fairly obvious that it's something that is adjusted using the allen key thingo then locked in place with the nut. Any ideas what it is / where it comes from?
  19. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  20. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would lik
  21. Hi Guys, After a long hard and hot run my 3A always leaks some coolant liquid from the overflow, pretty normal because I keep topping it up. This time I did notice that the coolant was foaming when it overflowed. Checked oil level and that was perfect, drained coolant and did not notice any oil contamination, my first worry was a leak at the liner base. I torqued the head down, but that was OK. so I'm thinking that I'm leaking exhaust gasses in my coolant. Any other theories out there? Could I be able to detect this with a CO gas detector? Or is this no reason for concern as long as oil a
  22. Hello old friends! It's been quite a while but I've been spending more time enjoying my cars, and grandchildren. Because of the sudden and unpredictable nature of this failure I was compelled to report this incident. My '59 TR3A recently had a clutch master cylinder failure. Basically, it came apart internally while my mechanic was delivering the car after annual maintenance. He was forced to shift by speed matching to get it back to his shop. This car has approx. 5K miles since the restoration was completed in June 2012. The MC that failed is an after market unit that I bought in 20
  23. Hello again. Came across this advert in eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3a-57-62-NEW-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-3-4-bore/143069972878?hash=item214fa2898e:g:3l8AAOSwTM5YtGzS Anyone know of this business and can you recommend. The clutch MC looks like the original Girling and not like the new design casting being sold by Moss, Roadster Factory and others. Thanks, Frank
  24. I am currently fitting a Smiths heater, bought on the forum several years ago, to my 1958 Tr3a. Unfortunately I am missing the short screen vent duct that sits between the main outlet on the bottom plate and the Y piece. The duct positions the Y piece in an upward direction. Before making one I thought I would ask if anyone has such a part available. Kind Regards Alan
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