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  1. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  2. Having sorted out the rear apron I am now looking to fit the rear o/s quarter panel. Once again problems it does not fit and I notice it is a different shape from the panel that was on. The lip that folds round the B post is not deep enough and where the panel mates with the inner quarter panel at the top it is actaully a different shape. The original, perhaps thats the wrong word, I should say the panel taken off is flat where it mates with the inner panel and the top of both panels were seam welded at the very edge. The new panel is shaped with no flat edge and it does not fit flush with the
  3. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  4. Here is an interesting beast! Had a fun drive to the east shore with my friend’s “silver bullet”.. Cheers Dan
  5. Hi folks, I’m trying to track down one of these grilles for my TR3a. If you have one you’d like to sell, or know of one for sale, please let me know. Thanks David
  6. Having got my TR3a engine running as smoothly as it has ever done, I now have a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. Initially, I thought it was coming from the rocker cover but although that was part of the problem it has now been fixed and the oil leak persists. Yesterday, I put the car up on ramps so that I could take a good look underneath and discovered a steady drip fom the bottom of the bellhousing when the engine is running. It's definitely engine oil and stops when I turn the engine off. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the rear of the crank machined to take a
  7. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  8. Has anyone fitted a towing eye to the chassis of a TR3A and if so how? I am going abroad with mine and wondered if this was a good idea in case I need a tow or a winch onto a breakdown truck. Also has anyone got a list of recommended spare to carry. No silly suggestions please!!
  9. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to
  10. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered
  11. Hi, Having some issues with a 3A since the fuel pump gave out last week. I have since sourced a new pump and began work on removing it which as all forums that I had read, took too long with the awkward angle of the right nut! Something I had noticed upon first inspection, but did not realise the significance of until I had dismantled as much of the pump as possible, the rocker arm fulcrum pin has come loose and is to one side and no longer can be pushed back in (or pulled out from the angle). With the pin out to the side, this is now also being caught on the top of (what I think is
  12. I took my TR3a for its MOT today and whilst it passed without any issues, the mechanic pointed out that there was quite a lot of play in the rear hub bearings. They weren't noisy but they had quite a lot of play. It's a while since I touched them but I don't recall it as being a simple job to adjust them. The only way that I can think of doing it will be to remove the half shaft and adjust the shim pack between the brake back plate and the rear axle, which will be a pain as I have to remove the six set screws with their locking tabs etc. Is that correct or is there an easier way?
  13. I spent the best part of the weekend stripping down the chassis of my 1960 L/H drive 3a that I've recently acquired; something that is puzzling me is that in parts where I've been able to see the paint layers the original colour appears to be light blue. When I took off the engine mounts and steering box off these also had the same colour blue underneath them. I'm assuming that this is perhaps a primer layer but is it possible that some cars left the factory with different colours applied to the chassis or were a customer preference? I'm waiting for the vehicle trace records from Bill Piggott
  14. I am sure that there was a thread on this forum about an owner who had made splash panels in the back wheel arch, like the ones that seal the front wheel arch from the main body. It looks a bit more complicated than the front but I have time , with lock down, so I am interested. I have one rear wing off the car. I remember that a reply to the original post was a request for a template. But I can not find the post. Can anyone help with advice. Thanks Richard & B
  15. I have recently purchased a tr3a, that has been off the road since 1975. The Build records state that the car was supplied with competition springs and dampers when it left the factory. It also has a number of other sporting goodies including an inlet manifold that looks identical to the one shown in the old SAH adverts. The head also has been ported and is a different colour to the block. Did SAH put any identifying marks on their heads?
  16. I am about to start removing the front and rear wings. I have been soaking the screw headed bolts, under the wing with WD40 every day for the past week. Unfortunately I cannot shift the bolts even with and impact screw driver. Short of drilling them out or grinding the heads off has any one any tips?
  17. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  18. Today I started fitting the door interior trim panels and discovered how 'hand built' TRs were. the car is a TR3a and while the LH door is original the RH one is from another car, albeit one of similar age and with everything else identical. I carefully checked the back of each door to identify the correct holes for fixing the door cards and was surprised to find that although they are similar they are not the same. It would seem it depended on the person who was doing the fitting. In the end I based my drillings on a variety of photos that I have captured from this site over the
  19. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  20. Is there a way to improve the ride height at the back without removing/replacing the rear springs. ? My car is too low and the exhaust hits the speed bumps. There is no space between the wing edge and the top of the tyre when looking straight on from the side. The tyre is inside the wing. Any answers would be helpful. Thanks Richard & B
  21. The battery on my TR3a has finally given up the ghost after about 8 years. Because my car has been converted to negative earth and I like the terminals adjacent to the bulkhead, I use a code 068 battery which fits well. After a quick search on the internet I ended up with a Yuasa 3000 series battery (72 Ah, 630 amp) for £77 delivered from GSF car parts. It arrived next day and has a 4 year guarantee. New battery has now been fitted and is working fine. My only purpose in this post is to highlight the price and service from GSF. Rgds Ian PS My car is non standard
  22. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Fin
  23. In anticipation that those skanky mongrel carbs will go off for a rebuild (replacement), I have been writing my list to Santa. A phoenix exhaust to replace the beastly unsealed rally system is top of the list, as, with the carbs gone, the timing is opportune. This also seems like one job I could actually do myself without making everything worse - as is usually the case I have read the various threads about one v two box systems. My view is that with the hard top on much of the time, the existing system is way too loud (resonates in the cabin) and I am tempted by twin box behind
  24. Hi Guys I am thinking about bringing my TR3A to B.C. Canada but require to know what you have to do when the car is laid up for winter. Do you have your cars in heated garages? or what other preparations do you have to make? possibly put them up on axle stands to clear tyres off the cold concrete or steel floors. Thanks Dave
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