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Cars Owned:

  1. The red seal in my (standard) petrol cap has seen better days. Using a vernier the spec is approximately as below, it is currently a red fibrous material as far as I can tell and it sits in a square section grove. Internal diameter 53.5mm External Diameter 62mm Depth of seal 4mm My basic question is where can I get one ? They are not listed as a separate item in my spare parts book. (I can not find it anyway). Thanks, John
  2. Can I swap type B calipers for type A? By commission # 58XXX, it looks like I should have the B type anyway but my car came to me with the A type on it. Tom
  3. Hi All, I have a couple of queries regarding my TR2 body tub which has been restored and is now sat in primer. I think there are a couple of ‘man made holes’ which perhaps need welding up but I’d like a second opinion please… I've attached a couple of photos Pic 1 - Large hole in LHS just above the temporary body bracing. Pic 2 - 2 x Slotted holes just to the right of the loudspeaker aperture on RHS. Any help gratefully received Cheers Ade
  4. Hi Bit of a newbie here. I have a '57 TR3, which was running very nicely. But now seems to have no ignition. Possibly a short somewhere? The background The night before Gaydon, I drove part way up country to stay overnight. All was good and fine. Next morning, dead battery. I didn't give it too much thought. Jump start, fired up immediately and off we went. Stalled when nearly at Gaydon and had to have a jump start. Same again when leaving Gaydon. Knackered battery I assumed, so bought a new one on the way home. All was good. Parked at home in the garage. Went to
  5. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  6. Hi. The cable of my rev counter has snapped off in the distributor drive. Is there an easy way of getting this out. There is nothing to grip on to enable me to pull out. Regards Brian
  7. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  8. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  9. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  10. Hello all, I am thinking about repairing my door hinges on my 56 TR3, as they have so much play that that are taking the paint off the sills when I close the doors. I am trying the local machine shops to see if any of them are interested in drilling out the worn pins and fitting oversized pins (I seem to recall a post on the forum about using 6.5mm dia silver steel). However, if I draw a blank locally (Malvern), does anyone on here have the interest and capability to do the job for me? I will of course offer suitable compensation and pay for all postage and materials. I have looked o
  11. I have installed a new cable in a very original rev counter but as the revs increase the cable obviously fails to grip the female drive and the screaming necessitates removal. Apart from having the complete gauge serviced are their any suggestions as to how I might effect a cure? Araldite perhaps ?
  12. Can anyone identify the make and vehicle this hardtop fits please? It has headlining, glass and fixings and is in good condition. I'd appreciate a rough idea of its value if anyone can help. Many Thanks Bob
  13. Hi All, does any one have any reliable data on the maximum amount of run-out (eccentricity) that a 10" drum can have? I have approx 0.012" (0.3mm) on a drum I have and I think that is causing the vibration I am feeling when braking. I have found some data on a truck brake website that states 0.010" (0.25mm) is the max, but wondered if anyone on the forum had anything better? Thanks in advance, Laurence p.s. I do have a bit of video footage if anyone wants to see the 'swing' on the dial gauge
  14. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  15. Hi Folks I am considering rebuilding my engine to eliminate the oil drips ( I can hear you all laughing all the way down here in NZ). Will likely increase to 86mm pistons and liners at the same time. I am going to order the conversion kit from Moss (TT1032) which does not require any machining along with a Viton seal.This being ordered through our TR Register here who have an association with Moss. Moss advises that a special tool (TT1032Tool) is required but I have seen a YouTube clip showing that the tool is not used. At £55 it is very expensive for perhaps a one time use so I
  16. Hi All, my cylinder head for my TR3 went in for some work recently, valve seats, guides, valves, gas-flowing and a small repair. I neglected to remove the In/Ex manifold studs before sending it to the shop and I didn't take pictures of what went where. I can work it with a bit of trial and error, but thought I'd ask if anyone on the forum had a sketch showing the layout? It's a 4A head but with standard TR3 inlet/exhaust manifolds. Regards, Laurence
  17. Hi All Can anyone supply a photo of the inner side of the sidescreen. Is there a bulbous piece at the lower front that butts up against the scuttle to stop water coming through that area. I can't find any decent pictures showing this. Or is there something others have done to eliminate this Thanks Brian
  18. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  19. I cannot seem to get the Moss replacement front exhaust pipe to clear the OD Housing. Ive just replaced the rear mount on the transmission hoping that would make a difference but no improvement. Your advice will be appreciated. The pipe hits the OD housing at the upper arrow and is too low for the cruciform passage at the bottom one. Tom
  20. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  21. Hi, Does anyone one know where I can get replacement knurled screws for sidescreen mounting brackets please? I have one missing and one bent (which I hope to carefully straighten). Any help gratefully received Best wishes Ade
  22. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  23. Hi, I’m looking for recommendations for companies who can refurbish the Lockheed rear axle on my TR2.....they need to be in the UK. I want to keep the original. Kind regards Ade
  24. Hi I know this subject has been covered a number of times however none seem to cover my issue. A previous owner had replaced the windscreen tenax pegs with snap domes which are riveted in place. I had to replace a couple when I rebuilt the car some years ago. At that stage I had noticed that some of the threads had been drilled out. I would like to now replace the domes with the correct pegs however I suspect that the threads are too damaged to re-tap ( and hole too big). Question - I see that The Roadster Factory has pegs item number 553837 which are designed for the alumi
  25. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, trying to get my car complete for this summer. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/2526/TR23-Grille-Mouth-trim-WANTED Cheers Bob
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