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Cars Owned:

  1. The red seal in my (standard) petrol cap has seen better days. Using a vernier the spec is approximately as below, it is currently a red fibrous material as far as I can tell and it sits in a square section grove. Internal diameter 53.5mm External Diameter 62mm Depth of seal 4mm My basic question is where can I get one ? They are not listed as a separate item in my spare parts book. (I can not find it anyway). Thanks, John
  2. Can I swap type B calipers for type A? By commission # 58XXX, it looks like I should have the B type anyway but my car came to me with the A type on it. Tom
  3. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  4. Hi All, I have a couple of queries regarding my TR2 body tub which has been restored and is now sat in primer. I think there are a couple of ‘man made holes’ which perhaps need welding up but I’d like a second opinion please… I've attached a couple of photos Pic 1 - Large hole in LHS just above the temporary body bracing. Pic 2 - 2 x Slotted holes just to the right of the loudspeaker aperture on RHS. Any help gratefully received Cheers Ade
  5. Hi Bit of a newbie here. I have a '57 TR3, which was running very nicely. But now seems to have no ignition. Possibly a short somewhere? The background The night before Gaydon, I drove part way up country to stay overnight. All was good and fine. Next morning, dead battery. I didn't give it too much thought. Jump start, fired up immediately and off we went. Stalled when nearly at Gaydon and had to have a jump start. Same again when leaving Gaydon. Knackered battery I assumed, so bought a new one on the way home. All was good. Parked at home in the garage. Went to
  6. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  7. I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset
  8. Hi. The cable of my rev counter has snapped off in the distributor drive. Is there an easy way of getting this out. There is nothing to grip on to enable me to pull out. Regards Brian
  9. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  10. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  11. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  12. Hello all, I am thinking about repairing my door hinges on my 56 TR3, as they have so much play that that are taking the paint off the sills when I close the doors. I am trying the local machine shops to see if any of them are interested in drilling out the worn pins and fitting oversized pins (I seem to recall a post on the forum about using 6.5mm dia silver steel). However, if I draw a blank locally (Malvern), does anyone on here have the interest and capability to do the job for me? I will of course offer suitable compensation and pay for all postage and materials. I have looked o
  13. I cannot seem to get the Moss replacement front exhaust pipe to clear the OD Housing. Ive just replaced the rear mount on the transmission hoping that would make a difference but no improvement. Your advice will be appreciated. The pipe hits the OD housing at the upper arrow and is too low for the cruciform passage at the bottom one. Tom
  14. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  15. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  16. I have installed a new cable in a very original rev counter but as the revs increase the cable obviously fails to grip the female drive and the screaming necessitates removal. Apart from having the complete gauge serviced are their any suggestions as to how I might effect a cure? Araldite perhaps ?
  17. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  18. Hi, Am I correct in thinking that TS8955 is unlikely to have had engine TS11081E originally fitted? Thanks Rob
  19. Can anyone identify the make and vehicle this hardtop fits please? It has headlining, glass and fixings and is in good condition. I'd appreciate a rough idea of its value if anyone can help. Many Thanks Bob
  20. Hi All, does any one have any reliable data on the maximum amount of run-out (eccentricity) that a 10" drum can have? I have approx 0.012" (0.3mm) on a drum I have and I think that is causing the vibration I am feeling when braking. I have found some data on a truck brake website that states 0.010" (0.25mm) is the max, but wondered if anyone on the forum had anything better? Thanks in advance, Laurence p.s. I do have a bit of video footage if anyone wants to see the 'swing' on the dial gauge
  21. Hi Folks I am considering rebuilding my engine to eliminate the oil drips ( I can hear you all laughing all the way down here in NZ). Will likely increase to 86mm pistons and liners at the same time. I am going to order the conversion kit from Moss (TT1032) which does not require any machining along with a Viton seal.This being ordered through our TR Register here who have an association with Moss. Moss advises that a special tool (TT1032Tool) is required but I have seen a YouTube clip showing that the tool is not used. At £55 it is very expensive for perhaps a one time use so I
  22. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  23. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  24. Hi All, my cylinder head for my TR3 went in for some work recently, valve seats, guides, valves, gas-flowing and a small repair. I neglected to remove the In/Ex manifold studs before sending it to the shop and I didn't take pictures of what went where. I can work it with a bit of trial and error, but thought I'd ask if anyone on the forum had a sketch showing the layout? It's a 4A head but with standard TR3 inlet/exhaust manifolds. Regards, Laurence
  25. Hi All Can anyone supply a photo of the inner side of the sidescreen. Is there a bulbous piece at the lower front that butts up against the scuttle to stop water coming through that area. I can't find any decent pictures showing this. Or is there something others have done to eliminate this Thanks Brian
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