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Cars Owned:

  1. Hi. I am thinking of putting wing mirrors on the guards. Can anyone advise whereabouts they should be positioned. I have a mirror attached to Staunton but it vibrates too much and hard to see. Thanks. Brian
  2. Hi I was wondering if there was an original engineering drawing showing the hole positions for tenax pegs in TR2 doors and rear quarter panels? Hoping to make a card template to drill correctly before paint. I obtained a replacement original door but somebody has re-dropped the tenax holes incorrectly due to the wood no longer holding the screw pegs. I’ve also replaced the rear quarter panels so no holes exist at present. Kind regards Ade
  3. My clutch was ab bit slow to engage but worked otherwise so I decided it was time for a rebuild. The little wave washer on the inner end of the clutch master cylinder was completely flat, no wave in it at all. I don't know if that was my problem but the problem now is finding a replacement. They seem to be quite scarce. Lots of the catalog pictures show the part but after getting a couple of kits without the washer, I find that they have been eliminated from most kits. (I do have some used ones from old cylinders but would prefer new.) Anyone Know of a source and did that washer cause my prob
  4. Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a sta
  5. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  6. Hi All and Happy New Year to everyone. Could someone advise the level the brake fluid should be in the master cylinder. Brakes and clutch have been bled but fluid is coming out of the top (and has damaged the paint work- very annoying). A friend said that fluid should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from top to allow expansion. I can't find any level indicator on the cylinder. I have a booster also. Your thoughts appreciated Regards Brian
  7. A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
  8. Hi just curious if anyone has swapped a tr7 5 speed into a tr3? If so any insights would be appreciated regarding the clutch, pressure plate, pinion etc. I a not sure if anyone sells the adaptor for the bellhousing end or for the gearbox end to weld onto the existing tr3 bellhousing. Thanks in adavance.
  9. The red seal in my (standard) petrol cap has seen better days. Using a vernier the spec is approximately as below, it is currently a red fibrous material as far as I can tell and it sits in a square section grove. Internal diameter 53.5mm External Diameter 62mm Depth of seal 4mm My basic question is where can I get one ? They are not listed as a separate item in my spare parts book. (I can not find it anyway). Thanks, John
  10. Can I swap type B calipers for type A? By commission # 58XXX, it looks like I should have the B type anyway but my car came to me with the A type on it. Tom
  11. Hi All, I have a couple of queries regarding my TR2 body tub which has been restored and is now sat in primer. I think there are a couple of ‘man made holes’ which perhaps need welding up but I’d like a second opinion please… I've attached a couple of photos Pic 1 - Large hole in LHS just above the temporary body bracing. Pic 2 - 2 x Slotted holes just to the right of the loudspeaker aperture on RHS. Any help gratefully received Cheers Ade
  12. Hi Bit of a newbie here. I have a '57 TR3, which was running very nicely. But now seems to have no ignition. Possibly a short somewhere? The background The night before Gaydon, I drove part way up country to stay overnight. All was good and fine. Next morning, dead battery. I didn't give it too much thought. Jump start, fired up immediately and off we went. Stalled when nearly at Gaydon and had to have a jump start. Same again when leaving Gaydon. Knackered battery I assumed, so bought a new one on the way home. All was good. Parked at home in the garage. Went to
  13. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  14. I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset
  15. Hi. The cable of my rev counter has snapped off in the distributor drive. Is there an easy way of getting this out. There is nothing to grip on to enable me to pull out. Regards Brian
  16. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  17. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  18. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  19. Hello all, I am thinking about repairing my door hinges on my 56 TR3, as they have so much play that that are taking the paint off the sills when I close the doors. I am trying the local machine shops to see if any of them are interested in drilling out the worn pins and fitting oversized pins (I seem to recall a post on the forum about using 6.5mm dia silver steel). However, if I draw a blank locally (Malvern), does anyone on here have the interest and capability to do the job for me? I will of course offer suitable compensation and pay for all postage and materials. I have looked o
  20. I cannot seem to get the Moss replacement front exhaust pipe to clear the OD Housing. Ive just replaced the rear mount on the transmission hoping that would make a difference but no improvement. Your advice will be appreciated. The pipe hits the OD housing at the upper arrow and is too low for the cruciform passage at the bottom one. Tom
  21. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  22. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  23. I have installed a new cable in a very original rev counter but as the revs increase the cable obviously fails to grip the female drive and the screaming necessitates removal. Apart from having the complete gauge serviced are their any suggestions as to how I might effect a cure? Araldite perhaps ?
  24. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  25. Hi, Am I correct in thinking that TS8955 is unlikely to have had engine TS11081E originally fitted? Thanks Rob
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