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Showing results for tags 'tr3'.
Found 10 results
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These parts are required for solid axle TR 2,3 and 4 They are original S-T items and unused and should not be confused with the modern remanufactured replacements. They have been well looked after having been stored in clean oil so that there is no corrosion and have the retaining spring included Priced at £18 each or £32 per pair.plus postage. -
COLLECTED. 86mm +0.030” set of 4 used pistons complete with rings and gudgeon pins Done 20 k miles max. County brand. Came from an engine with rotten liner seats, so liners were scrapped. Free to a good home Postage at cost or collect from Pinner Middlesex. -
Hand tool kit for a TR3/3a Tools as follows: Tecalemit Grease Gun 2801; Adjustable spanner 7" by TW; Box spanner 6" 3/4x5/8; Adjustable pliers 6" by TW; Hub cap removal tool; Tommy bar 6"; Screwdriver beech handle 61/2"; 3 x open ended AF Superslim spanners by TW 3/4 x 5/8, 9/16 x 1/2, 7/16 x 3/8; 2 x 9" Dunlop Tyre Levers; Lucas points feeler guage .014 - .016 & helicopter feeler gauge .024,.012,.010; Coach key. Tools in tie up pouch. Condition isl commensurate with age e.g. some paint loss to grease, but all tools in g
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Hi Everyone I wondered if anyone has a solution for paint cracking the headlight area. Soon after I restored the car in 2013 the paint cracked along the crease where the headlight meets the apron. In January I decided to have the apron resprayed due to a number of stone chips. The panelbeater removed all the lead in that area and left the spot welds which then covered with a skim of filler. The paint has cracked again and don't know what to do next. Question is - should this area be a complete weld? and what have others done. I am assuming this is to do with skuttle shake.
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Did all TR3s have the wiper motor mounted on the nearside?
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I have a long (rigid) steering box/column with control head and stator tube surplus to requirements. I suspect the best use for this would be for converting a car from LHD to RHD so I would like to offer the full package. I believe the drop arm and trunnion bracket are different and probably some of the bracketry inside the car. What other parts would be required (maybe someone has a complete list of parts for the conversion)?
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Hi Everyone My overdrive developed an oil leak and investigation revealed that it is coming from the plunger and o ring area. I have taken the plate off and there are 2 o rings behind the collar at the front of the plate. Another TR member advises that this plate is not correct as the o ring should sit in a cavity on the back of the plate. There is no cavity on my plate. He is sending me a spare plate he has. Can anyone throw any light on what I have and how the o rings seal. The cavity is deep enough to take 2 o rings so how does it form a good seal. Do I have a part missing. R
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Hi Everyone This may have been covered before but I could not find any thread. Due to having short legs I have to have the seat right forward which impedes the full movement of the handbrake lever. Will adjusting (shortening) the cable from the lever to the compensator fix this issue. With the seat back the handbrake works on the last click Regards Brian
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Hi Guys, "Vixen" Engine number 10708 E, has just completed a 2 year body off and engine etc. rebuild and goes beautifully, however,have a problem with the starter motor currently on the second starter drive and the rubber drive has again stripped from the outer sleeve. Do not want to go to a hi-torque starter if at all possible due to originality and scrutineer's will spot as not in period for period events. Any help/ideas of where I can source a robust starter motor or starter drive other than the current supplier who appears to have a bad batch gratefully received. Tony
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The picture in the middle of the page "Entitled Americans in Paris" on page 44 nearest the middle of the two page spread. If you look at the TR 3/Tr3a in the foreground it appears to have a much wider spaced grill and a chrome surround or it may be my eyesight/ optical illusion. Defo looks a bit odd.
