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Found 127 results

  1. Gentlemen, having read few horror stories about the SS trim piece being hacked while trying to remove it I decided that no screwdriver will make it anywhere close to the trim. Still I need to remove it. I'm faced with 2 options: cold or hot. Cold: Does anyone knows of any mixture that will help dissolving the black mastic? and how to apply it ? Hot: Has anyone tried a butane burner to generate a meltdown of the mastic? What are the risks for the trim? PS: The lid is aluminium. Thanks for your inputs
  2. Anyone seen this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172002897959?euid=1ad7b2aec9a6402a8ebb476e92184d0a&cp=1&exe=12742&ext=32470&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext Deliberate misinterpretation if you ask me..... I contacted the seller to detail the car is a TR250 with chassis number CD 2591 L and he said "he's not doing anything illegal!! Discuss
  3. Hola, submitted to your sagacity is a pair of GB which I need to identify on pics. The one on the right side is 4/A but what about the one one left side? The visual differences are the gear lever (straight) and a smaller bulge on the housing. The tail is stamped 301258. TR3? Both 3/4? Thanks
  4. 750$ buy it now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Type-Overdrive-Extension-Transmission-Triumph-TR3-TR3A-TR4-TR4A-TR250-TR5-TR6-/322032264265?hash=item4afa9e6449:g:w-IAAOSwv9hW3imS&vxp=mtr
  5. Buy it now at 100$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR250-GT6-GT6-Original-Steering-Wheel-15/172104242382?_trksid=p2055119.c100022.m2048&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122153519%26meid%3D98f11c16135b49e1821a0f85d7876f80%26pid%3D100022%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D322004550194
  6. alanwcoote


    Forgive me I don't do computers , but I do have a set of bumpers and overrides for sale on the bay placed by a pal of mine. Have tied to place add in buy and sell but failed due to incompitance So looking for £300 ish there in good nic rust free great example for rechrome Can get them to stoneleigh if firm interest please PM
  7. 2 days to go http://www.ebay.com/itm/131701393539?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  8. How do the twin silencer exhausts mount at the rear. Do they hang from the cross tube or do they mount to the boot floor? If the latter are there brackets avail able, or does anyone have dimensions of something suitable?
  9. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
  10. The trunnion bolts on my TR250 need replacing. Is there any problem with replacing them with grade 8 bolts of correct length? Or, are they special bolts for some reason? Cheers Graeme
  11. Winter prep : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111830818544?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  12. Anyone got a TR250 front engine lifting bracket spare if so I please let me know if I can purchase it. Many Thanks Peter
  13. Several viewers have enquired about the ICME repair time guides that I mentioned in another thread . . . . . I have now added to these the ICME service time guides. These are sourced from the 1976 edition. These were based on manufacturers' published times, which were a GUIDE - and due allowance may be made for additional time required where components are seized or rusted. As a generalisation, back in the '70s any car that had reached 3 years old and its first MoT test would be regarded as likely to require extra time, the extra time increasing with age. Anything over 10 years old was probably DIY maintenance only, and hence not included in the service guide. The repair sections however included cars up to 15 years old. Also a 3 page maintenance schedule, sourced from the 1977 Triumph Repair Operation Manual (BL publication AKM3646). Images 1242-1244. All in this album - http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/trvanishingpoint/library/ICME%20TR%20Times Cheers Alec
  14. I've picked up a pair of trailing arms with the intention of overhauling them. I've got the bushes out and the studs removed. Couple of questions: The stud threads in the castings are perfect so was thinking of just new studs... Is it worth reworking them anyway? If I reworked them I will go for Helicoils. They have been painted in the past. (Hammerite I think.) What's the teams view on stripping, media blasting and Powdercoating? Finally, Poly bushes: blue or red?
  15. Hello All, A friend of mine has recently moved from a top restoration company to start his own engineering company in Gloucestershire. I can thoroughly recommend his work, attitude & commitment. www.kmbengltd.com Kevin loves engineering, all classics & TR's! Cheers.
  16. I've just had to find a set of new tyres for Julian's Minor Marina, hence checking around for best value - sporting Morris, a lot more performance than standard, so it justifies decent tyres . . . . . and wet grip is a priority. The answer proved to be Camskill, and the new Uniroyal Rain Expert 3 tyre, the only one I could find in this size with a high B rating for wet weather grip. Set of 5 tyres 155/80x13, delivered, for £147.70 including a special offer £20 'shopping voucher', net price effectively £127.70 or £25.54 apiece. Bargain or what ? Camskill have the RE3 tyre in TR7 sizes, 175/70x13 and 185/70x13, also in real TR sizes for those who like the lower profile 195/60 or 195/65x15.- the 13" versions being B rated in the wet, the 15" tyres are A rated wet, and there aren't many A-rated tyres available for our cars. Usual disclaimers, no connection with Camskill (or Uniroyal!) other than having had good service and value from Camskill in recent years. http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php http://www.uniroyal-tyres.com/www/uniroyal_tyres_gb_en/themes/summer-tyres/fd_rainexpert-3/rainexpert-3.html Cheers Alec
  17. This seems slightly worrying for anybody with a replacement chassis or major changes to the cars original construction. http://socforum.com/forum/showthread.php?29146-DVLA-Challenging-Historic-Status Mick Richards
  18. Hi Everyone, some assistance please, what would cause a shuddering/vibration in the drive chain, overdrive reliefs it but you can still feel it in the background, also in you flick the OD in/out quick it seems goes away, its around 50/60 mph, it pulls OK and there is no clunking etc, new drive shaft all fitted and UV's, I'm wondering if its prop, maybe need a packing with more grease, over to you guys please? This a an A type box with O/D.
  19. Hi Folks, now where am I going wrong, static timing my TR250, first set pulley at 10 degrees BTDC with no.1 on compression stroke, rotor arm is now at approx 6 o'clock turn dizzy so points just opening and fix in place. Start engine perfect, engine running circa 2k revs, check timing on no.1 with strobe, TDC mark at 8 o'clock scratching head, retard engine slightly to reduce revs, do it all again as I must have made an error as TDC Mark should be top of pulley under strobe, same result, so what am I doing wrong, As far as I know the dizzy has never been out and it ran AOK before I had the car body restored, any ideas pleas?
  20. I've recently received several emails asking about repair times, as in how long should it take to do a particular job etc. How long is a piece of string, but as ever some classic specialists are prone to double even a long piece of string. No names, no pack drill, but some TR specialists seem to me to be a darn sight more competent and efficient than others, to put it kindly. Or to put it another way, the greedy and inefficient are not yet extinct. Take your pick. The sheer creativeness of some classic specialists is matched only by the sheer gullibility of some classic owners. Here are snapshots of the 1976 ICME manual Triumph pages, which provides at least some sort of a guide to expectations back in the day. The less efficient TR fixers might well insist that these times bear no relevance 40 years on. They may very well think so. My response would be that the average TR today is in a damn sight better condition than the average TR of the mid-70s . . . . . at least as I remember them. Cheers Alec
  21. Discussion elsewhere prompted mention of just how much a TR5 can, or can't, carry . . . . . and hence I've been asked for figures on other TRs. These figures do matter, especially if you're unfortunate enough to be involved in a big woopsie - insurance assessors and engineers earn good money picking up on such detail, and thereby enabling the insurer to kick your claim into touch. That can happen, and does happen. End result, you can be personally liable for one hell of a lot more than just the damage to your own car. Ignore that possibility at your own (and your family's) financial peril. Maximum laden weights, private cars rather than commercial vehicles that is, weren't a big issue in the 1950s. I'm not convinced that Standard Triumph issued any definitive figure for the sports cars. Of course I'll be delighted if someone can come up with factory recommendations for sidescreen TRs . . . . . and for Swallow Doretti, Peerless and Warwick for that matter. As a matter of simple common sense, I'd reckon a TR2 through to TR3B should not be hauling any more load, in terms of kgs above kerb weight, than a TR4. Just my opinion, and the local weighbridge is your friend here. I'd suggest 200kgs absolute max . . . . . just my opinion, gut feeling if you prefer. As far as TR4-6 models are concerned, the 1977 Repair Operation Manual ought to be the definitive article. This lists basic kerb weights (including water, fuel, oil and tools), and gross vehicle weight. The difference between the two is the maximum load of passengers, luggage, spares and whatever else you choose to load your TR with. TR4 and 4A live axle - 1015kgs and 1213kgs, which leaves you with 198kgs of load capacity. TR4A with 1004 and 1213 allows a little more load of 209kgs. TR5 and 250 are 1034 to 1226, just 192kgs of avoirdupois.. The pre-1971 TR6 is listed at 1085kgs and 1308kgs, 223kgs of load in other words. 1971 onwards TR6 in contrast offers 1085kgs kerb but 1360kgs laden, 275kgs of potential load. USA spec TR6s were a tad more complicated - pre-1970 offered 223kgs, whereas 1970 models offered only 177kgs, heaven knows why . . . . and in contrast 1971-74 cars could handle 260kgs, and the last 75-6 cars 274kgs. No, I don't know the logic, don't ask me ! But if you have air conditioning fitted, knock 37kgs off that load capacity. Cheers Alec
  22. Windscreen Capping advice needed: I am in the process of fitting a Surrey top conversion on a TR250 and need to change the windscreen capping. The existing old capping is secured by 9 rivets, at approx 5" spacing. The new capping (from Moss part 806189), has the forward lip for attaching the front of the soft top vinyl but is drilled with 11 holes at approx 4" spacing. The new capping also has no provision for attaching the 2 soft top front press studs. It it possible to buy the correct capping drilled for 9 rivets and with the tabs for press stud provision? Or, is the solution to either drill the Moss capping with extra holes at approx 5" spacing to match the existing windscreen, or drill the windscreen top to match the 11 hole capping. Plus, then fabricate tabs with bases to accept the vinyl top press studs. Any suggestions, from those who have been here before, welcomed! Thanks Jerry West
  23. Judging by other posts, it is obviously the season for indicators to stop working. Yesterday my flashers stopped flashing and just stayed lit. All the bulbs are working but there is no on/off action. The flasher unit that I have is a 3 pin Signal Stat 180 that plugs into a round socket in the engine bay. Thinking that I just needed a new flasher unit, my friendly local garage ordered up two which he gave me to try but neither work. Am I right in thinking that American flashers are wired up differently? The Signal Stat is marked X (left), L (right) and P (top) if you are looking at the plug. The UK flasher unit is marked 31 (left), 49 (right) and 49a (top). The socket is wired with green and red wires to the L and P poles and a red wire to X. Looking at various wiring diagrams it seems that in the US the X pole is a power feed but in the UK the corresponding 31 is an earth?? This may be completely wrong as my understanding of wiring diagrams is very limited. It is possible to swap the position of the wires in the socket but would this make it work or does it need completely rewiring. I get the impression that Signal Stat flasher unit haven't been on the market for quite a while and were perhaps never available in the UK. Any help would be most welcome. Ali
  24. Hello.. My friend has a Canadian TR5/250..ad after having some repairs done all 4 hazard lights come on if he uses the turn signals. Can anyone help out with this problem..? Cheers bcderek
  25. Hi all I know a lot of the TR suppliers sell a door seal, but I think I've heard somewhere that the correct ones when found stop the door bouncing when being closed, But I'm not sure which one its is. The following link is to Woolies and they have 3 types, i.e 264, 235 and the 138. Does anyone know which one is correct http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-37-side-seals.aspx?pagenum=1 Best Bill
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