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  1. The brake lights on my '55 TR2 have suddenly stopped working - everything else still working OK though. So I suspect the brake light pressure switch. But, checked the wiring to the switch and it doesn't match the standard wiring diagram I have. Mine is a 2 terminal switch which has 1 black wire and 1 Green with red stripe going to it. The odd thing is 12v is present in both wires when running. Anyone else have this arrangement? - or understand how the switch works with 2 live wires? The wiring harness was replaced 30 years ago BTW and everything was working fine
  2. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  3. I'm getting a bit of acid bubbling out of the battery cell caps on our MG Midget. The set up is pretty similar to the TR2 - positive earth, a dynamo and the same control box/voltage regulator - part number 3H1835. It is possible I've slightly overfilled the cells and that is the problem, but I'd like to check that the battery isn't being overcharged in case that is the cause. I believe all I need to do is put a voltmeter onto the battery and check the reading when the engine is running and charging. What voltage levels should I be looking for? I ought to check the TR voltages too as
  4. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to
  5. I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset
  6. Hi, could I get some thoughts on the attached TR2 dash photo please. There are holes in the metal dash (under my A & B stickers) and the holes have been trimmed over. I want to fit an overdrive switch with a separate neon indicator fairly soon, but leaving a thought for a heater switch at some point in the future. Bill P's books show a variety of combinations and layouts in this area of the dash and I was looking for some standard positions to follow. Many Thanks Bob
  7. This is an interesting photo, and the goggled fellow seems most upset about the condition of the fur coat on the kerb. https://www.ebay.com/itm/24x18-Orig-Foto-1965-Unfall-TR2-Jaguar-Mustang-wie-Arnold-Odermatt-Polizei-photo/114715164919?hash=item1ab58e80f7:g:HQ8AAOSwGx1ZvpMZ Cheers Dan
  8. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  9. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  10. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  11. Anyone got a good picture of the TR2 brass body number plate or just the measures, mine is missing. Thanks to Bill Pigott I now have the body number and some other data that Heritage register didn't have. /Inge
  12. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  13. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  14. Rear light for early TR2 The early TR2 rear light, fitted prior to TS1307, uses the normal L471 backplate, 18/6 watt bulb and the same lens and the same two chrome screws to retain the bezel and the lens. The two things that differ are the bezel and its gasket. Attached is a scan showing the only two parts (Chrome Bezel 572249 and rubber gasket 572245) which are unique to the early TR2 and never used on any other vehicle. As far as we are aware, this arose simply because Lucas failed to have their then new rear light (the L549, used on all later sidescreen cars) ready for the start of
  15. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  16. Whole ad can be seen on the main website, TR gets only a fleeting glance at the end. Bob
  17. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  18. The TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) is delighted to announce that, following a considerable gestation period, the units are now boxed, in stock and on sale from Pete and Tom (his son) Cox at Pete Cox Sportscars in Redditch. Full details can be found below , with the price and contact details for purchase. Yet another success for the SDF, which exists to: "Preserve the Marque and keep TRs on the road". I must apologise that my attempts to upload a photo have failed - will try again tomorrow! Ian Cornish, SDF Chairman TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) Early TR2
  19. Hi, I am attending the spares day on Sunday, and would like to clearout my remaining TR2 spares, all open to very modest offers: Non OD gearbox, good gears Half shaft Door top trims trims, original, plus flbreglass elbow trims Rocker cover and vent/filler 3 deg trunions, new Starter, needs recon Dynmo, working 3 Overriders, used need rechrome Rear axle lowering kit Door latches, used, plus new strikers. See attached photos. If interested please PM me or text on 07961932463, can deliver to spares day FOC. Cheers Mike
  20. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  21. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  22. Hi, Does anyone one know where I can get replacement knurled screws for sidescreen mounting brackets please? I have one missing and one bent (which I hope to carefully straighten). Any help gratefully received Best wishes Ade
  23. Had not seem this image before. Shows the abundance of the early US offerings! Cheers Dan https://www.ebay.com/itm/N347-1954-NEGATIVE-SEXY-LADY-ADVERTISING-TRIUMPH-TR-2-CARS-ALLIED-VAN-LINES-SEE/202758870481?hash=item2f355ed5d1:g:fp0AAOSwlPZdWD-S
  24. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would lik
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