Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'tr2'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • TR Register Information
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites


  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL






Cars Owned:

  1. Hi I was wondering if there was an original engineering drawing showing the hole positions for tenax pegs in TR2 doors and rear quarter panels? Hoping to make a card template to drill correctly before paint. I obtained a replacement original door but somebody has re-dropped the tenax holes incorrectly due to the wood no longer holding the screw pegs. I’ve also replaced the rear quarter panels so no holes exist at present. Kind regards Ade
  2. Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a sta
  3. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  4. Just spotted this lot on eBay and wondered if the current owner of this car is a member here. Some historical documents, tax discs etc I’m not associated to the seller. The car is on DVLA site still, last log book issued 1985. TS7707 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-triumph-TR2-documents-/224815714402?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Regards Ade
  5. A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
  6. The red seal in my (standard) petrol cap has seen better days. Using a vernier the spec is approximately as below, it is currently a red fibrous material as far as I can tell and it sits in a square section grove. Internal diameter 53.5mm External Diameter 62mm Depth of seal 4mm My basic question is where can I get one ? They are not listed as a separate item in my spare parts book. (I can not find it anyway). Thanks, John
  7. Hi All, I have a couple of queries regarding my TR2 body tub which has been restored and is now sat in primer. I think there are a couple of ‘man made holes’ which perhaps need welding up but I’d like a second opinion please… I've attached a couple of photos Pic 1 - Large hole in LHS just above the temporary body bracing. Pic 2 - 2 x Slotted holes just to the right of the loudspeaker aperture on RHS. Any help gratefully received Cheers Ade
  8. The brake lights on my '55 TR2 have suddenly stopped working - everything else still working OK though. So I suspect the brake light pressure switch. But, checked the wiring to the switch and it doesn't match the standard wiring diagram I have. Mine is a 2 terminal switch which has 1 black wire and 1 Green with red stripe going to it. The odd thing is 12v is present in both wires when running. Anyone else have this arrangement? - or understand how the switch works with 2 live wires? The wiring harness was replaced 30 years ago BTW and everything was working fine
  9. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  10. I'm getting a bit of acid bubbling out of the battery cell caps on our MG Midget. The set up is pretty similar to the TR2 - positive earth, a dynamo and the same control box/voltage regulator - part number 3H1835. It is possible I've slightly overfilled the cells and that is the problem, but I'd like to check that the battery isn't being overcharged in case that is the cause. I believe all I need to do is put a voltmeter onto the battery and check the reading when the engine is running and charging. What voltage levels should I be looking for? I ought to check the TR voltages too as
  11. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to
  12. I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset
  13. Hi, could I get some thoughts on the attached TR2 dash photo please. There are holes in the metal dash (under my A & B stickers) and the holes have been trimmed over. I want to fit an overdrive switch with a separate neon indicator fairly soon, but leaving a thought for a heater switch at some point in the future. Bill P's books show a variety of combinations and layouts in this area of the dash and I was looking for some standard positions to follow. Many Thanks Bob
  14. This is an interesting photo, and the goggled fellow seems most upset about the condition of the fur coat on the kerb. https://www.ebay.com/itm/24x18-Orig-Foto-1965-Unfall-TR2-Jaguar-Mustang-wie-Arnold-Odermatt-Polizei-photo/114715164919?hash=item1ab58e80f7:g:HQ8AAOSwGx1ZvpMZ Cheers Dan
  15. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  16. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with the current owner of a set of perfect condition but used 92mm pistons, liners and standard length h beam con rods. The rods have big end size for a steel crank. I think that this is likely to be Ford cosworth dimensions. I have yet to establish a price for these from the owner, but I suspect it’s all going to be a bit of a bargain if it’s your bag. These have been removed from an engine that needs to go to 87mm due to regulations. David
  17. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  18. Anyone got a good picture of the TR2 brass body number plate or just the measures, mine is missing. Thanks to Bill Pigott I now have the body number and some other data that Heritage register didn't have. /Inge
  19. Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub bo
  20. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  21. Rear light for early TR2 The early TR2 rear light, fitted prior to TS1307, uses the normal L471 backplate, 18/6 watt bulb and the same lens and the same two chrome screws to retain the bezel and the lens. The two things that differ are the bezel and its gasket. Attached is a scan showing the only two parts (Chrome Bezel 572249 and rubber gasket 572245) which are unique to the early TR2 and never used on any other vehicle. As far as we are aware, this arose simply because Lucas failed to have their then new rear light (the L549, used on all later sidescreen cars) ready for the start of
  22. Whole ad can be seen on the main website, TR gets only a fleeting glance at the end. Bob
  23. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  24. The TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) is delighted to announce that, following a considerable gestation period, the units are now boxed, in stock and on sale from Pete and Tom (his son) Cox at Pete Cox Sportscars in Redditch. Full details can be found below , with the price and contact details for purchase. Yet another success for the SDF, which exists to: "Preserve the Marque and keep TRs on the road". I must apologise that my attempts to upload a photo have failed - will try again tomorrow! Ian Cornish, SDF Chairman TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) Early TR2
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.