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  1. Hi As anyone fitted electric power steering to a tr6 !!
  2. I am presently making a TR4A which I recently baught roadworthy. I have repaired the drive shafts and rear brakes and now I am starting on the front end. I have fit new trackrod ends, which were worn, but notice there is up and down movement of the inner steering shaft, the steering wheel moves up and down @ 1/4 inch. What is the likely cause? Apart from the bushes at the top and bottom of the column, that appear ok, I cannot see any thing else that would cause this.
  3. OK, this is one of those 'hunt the noise' exercises. For a while, I have experienced a random clunk coming from the offside front of the 3A when stopping or pulling away. Not on every occasion my any means, but quite distinct when it happens and worse since my recent tour. I have R&P steering from an known source but no ARB. So, what can I check / remedy in case something has just loosened (rather than worn) before simply handing the car over to the engineers? Many thanks. Miles
  4. My TR6 passed its MOT today, which I'm really pleased about. There was one or two observations. I have play in the upper steering column; it moves a little mostly in the vertical plane when you exert force on the steering wheel itself. (perhaps 2 or 3 mm). The Inspector pointed it out and suggested it was likely play in a bush. I have not interrogated further as yet. My question is what is it most likely to be, and is it a tricky job to do. A couple of years ago my classic car garage locally did adjust the column to its furthest position away from the driver; it had been in the outer position
  5. I need to replace the LHS tie rod ends and possibly the tie rod itself. Is there any variation in quality or shall I just call Moss ? Memo to self. " Do not drive over heavy bits of wood on country lanes." It is quite annoying as I have only recently had four wheel alignment at CTM in Hampshire. Is it possible to buy rubbish tie rods? Thanks Richard & B.
  6. I have the eternal TR problem of the horn going off intermittently on its own accord. I replaced my (1972) standard steering about 20 years ago with what I led to believe was an earlier type with a thin leather rim and separate deeper boss which necessitated the longer push connection. My column was also in the most upward position until last year which I had grown use to. However my local garage lowered it which was good. The horn issue to be honest was there before and after the step change. I believe its the boss shorting out on the horn ring in a random manner. I have recently tried to ins
  7. Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing somethin
  8. Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a pl
  9. Hi, The TR4 has past the MOT with just one advisory which was a nearside track rod end with some slight play. Can anyone recommend a quality replacement fitted with a grease nipple. Thanks Andy
  10. I need to replace top steering column bush part number 209423. I see that Rimmers do an uprated one (209423UR). Does anyone have any experience of the uprated ones? At 5x the price are they any better than the standard ones. I seem to remember original ones being challenging to fit. Keith
  11. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off be
  12. Hello. 1st post. Trailered home a 74, Sapphire blue yesterday. After this morning in the DMV the 1st real run out was an absolute joy. Located Putnam County, NY. 121k miles, but the previous owner has spared no expense on garage parts and maintenance. While the exterior is certainly shabby it suits me just fine and seems to run incredibly smoothly. Everything that should work, works. I'm spanner happy and have given it a fairly close look over. Two things jump out. The last steering splined joint has play in/out. This lets the steering wheel move about 1/8". Ive never seen a splin
  13. Hi You may remember that the steering bushes that go on the column inside the housing at the dash got chewed up on my TR4A. I have replaced them successfully with the uprated ones sold by Rimmers. Now the steering feels notchy. A little stiff. Should I expect this and should they 'bed-in' over time? In other words, should I stick with it or do I need to do something about it? The TR got an MOT no problem and it was not seen as an 'issue'. Many thanks. Paul.
  14. Propose to fit these to my refurbished steel wheels. I understand that they offer a close approximation to the original size fitted Thoughts?
  15. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  16. Hi all learned brethren. Please take a look at the pictures. I think you click them to make them bigger! Basically, my steering column started wobbling about from the inside. The outer casing was rock solid as was the shaft lock and where it joins in to the rubber joining section. So it has to be the bushes inside. I got them out and you'll see that they seem to be chewed up??? I have bought 2 new very expensive nylon ones (£40 odd quid). 2 Questions. 1: What causes the chewing up and is it something more sinister? Did I have a cheap bush in there? 2: Wi
  17. I am in the process of installing one of the much recommended on here Revington steering arm kits to my TRT3a. At the end of the instructions it says to set the toe in to 20 minutes. Is that going to be 20 minutes each side or 20 minutes total? I know I could phone Revington, but I just thought someone on here might know. Rgds Ian
  18. Can anyone tell me the correct assembly sequence for the steering gear on the TR7/8 please? I'm putting my Grinnall back together and can't get the in-engine bay upper linkage to pull up to the wavy washer. Many thanks Keith
  19. Hi previously had problems with the steering wheel moveing up and down setting off the horn ,so stripped it dowh ,fitted new bushes and reassembled making sure all was tight including clamp and allen key grub screw. problem reaccured very quickly ,the only thing i can think to do is put a slight drill mark (drill tip only) for the grub screw to locate or ?? help
  20. Bought this from Rimmers a few months ago, now ready to fit. See attached pic, is this some kind of sealed for life arrangement where the grease nipple would normally fit via an adaptor? Looking here for answer first, Bank Holiday so would have to wait until Tuesday for some answers from Rimmers.
  21. HI All, just taken the car for it annual MOT check and its failed on the NS track control arm on the steering rack moving back and forth inside the tube which it is, also the horn and n/s/f sidelight, but both of which work?? So the real question is the rack, is it worth sourcing the bush that guides the rod insider the rack tube or just to replace the whole thing with a rebuilt/new unit for piece of mind and simplicity, but not cost obviously. #76 in this image http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/steering/steering-rack-column-wheel-tr4-4a.
  22. I appologise for asking what is must be a stupid question............ When measuring toe in (1.6-3.2mm) does this refer to the measurment of each wheel. ie difference between front and rear faces of each individual wheel. Or does it refer to the total accumulative figure when measuring the distance between both wheel front and rear faces. In other words across the whole front end. I always thought it was each indivdual wheel. But for some reason suffering brain fade this morning.
  23. wjgco

    Steel Wheels;

    All I have a set of 5 "original" steel wheels for my six. Given what I know and what I have learned about the car, I'm not sure the "original", is as genuine as one could hope. They are stamped; 5 1/2J 15" As you can see from the photo's the wheels are not in good condition, but, neither are they beyond the pale. (The one shown is one of the better condition wheels) Questions; Could these be bead or sand blasted, prior to powder coating? (I am not sure of the efficacy of blasting welded wheels) If not, any suggestions for bringing them back to 'on the car' condition?
  24. Richard71

    Quick Rack

    Hello All, I think I mat be in need of a new steering rack........are there any benefits/advantages of the Quick Rack available? I'm guessing the one big disadvantage is it would make the steering even more heavier at slow speeds. Richard.
  25. I am in the process of renovating a sprung spoke steering wheel for my TR4. I have used Black Milliputty to repair cracks at the "T" points and all seems to be rock hard. Just one question before I finally commit to changing from the current 15" wooden rimmed wheel to the 16" item - are the 4-wire spokes firmly attached to the steering wheel rim under that tired bakolite type material? In other words, is careful renovation of this sort basically safe? Best wishes to All Willie
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