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Found 71 results

  1. Originally in the TR6 forum, seemed to be of general interest. Here are the turned bushes I made to press the bearings and oil seals: https://flic.kr/p/nYRpxD You can get the spring-ring off with screw-drivers or make some wedges: https://flic.kr/p/oeiKJb For removing layshaft bearings, the big jaws if the bearing has a gap behind as it should do and the small jaws against the bronze bush to get hold of a bearing thats been pushed too far in: https://flic.kr/p/oghZY9 You could tap the races of the new layshaft bearings in with a punch I suppose or pull them in with this: https://flic.kr/p/oga5v3 For pressing the mainshaft back through the new bearing, this protects the end, note how I am using aluminium: https://flic.kr/p/nYSoZk And here is a tool for remove/fit the A-type accumulator piston. This is made from standard O-rings and Acetal rod: https://flic.kr/p/ogkEgv This is for remove/fit the A-type OD oil-pump: https://flic.kr/p/nYRp92 There are two more tools, I'll take pictures when I find them. You could probably do without any of this by banging about with drifts and chisels. Would do some damage most likely and this would have taken me a lot longer to do. We had a recent topic here, in which the input shaft had not been fitted right and the car would move a few feet then "lock-up". Tooling like this helps to get the fit right.
  2. I am looking to install a reconditioned gearbox and overdrive in my TR3B (TCF series). The unit I am considering is a 4-synchro box with 'A'-type O/D from a TR5. The vendor tells me the only difference is that the input shaft is slightly shorter but that the box can be fitted without adaptation. Can anybody confirm? Also, can anyone recommend dealing with TR Shop on Chiswick High Rd. in London based on experience? Thanks, Bob.
  3. Can anyone help? I am really struggling on this one... My overdrive has developed a really annoying intermittent problem where it doesn't always engage and I can't think of any obvious reasons. The symptoms are: The problem occurs at anything between a couple of miles of running up to about 40 (so far). However, I went out in it this week for over 70 miles and had no problems. There is no obvious pattern except that when it doesn't work, if I leave it overnight it works in the morning (at least for a short while) The overdrive can be working normally and at some random point when the column switch is engaged the overdrive doesn't do anything. Even if the column switch is left 'on' for a long time, the overdrive doesn't engage. The lack of overdrive engagement can last for just a mile (or less) or carry on for several/many miles. When it comes back on it is as normal, as though nothing has happened. The overdrive does not disengage randomly - only when the column switch is turned off There are no untoward noises when the overdrive is engaged or not. The solenoid appears to be working - when I have checked it at stop it 'clicks' and draws about 2 amps Interestingly, when the overdrive is engaged in 3rd gear it is sometimes (but not always) a bit hesitant, almost engaging in stages; 4th gear always appears to be as normal, going straight in. There has been a time when it did not engage in 3rd, but when I immediately changed into 4th and tried again, it worked. This may have been coincidence Oil levels are ok in the box I don't have a pressure gauge to check the hydraulic pressure, unfortunately Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Ollie
  4. daniel

    Overdrive

    Hi All, Looking to get an overdrive fitted to my TR4, what parts do I need and what are the rough costings. Thanks dan
  5. Help required with sourcing a column switch for my TR4 short chrome stalk,anyone got a spare or point me in right direction or failing that can offer advice on a substitute switch system Ihave the correct metal cowls just the switch has gone AWOL.Thanks Keith
  6. Dear All, I have just joined, my father has a 1972 TR6 which he has owned since 1987 (since I was 5!). I have searched this excellent forum over the last couple of days (bank holiday tinker time) and have performed a few tests on the overdrive system, based on what I have found, but I am now stumped and I could really do with some help! Symptoms: Overdrive does not work in any gear. Relay does not click regardless of stalk position, solenoid does not clunk. (Tested with ignition on but engine off, in 2nd & in 4th) I have tested the relay for resistance and it is as it should be I think: unlimited resistance across 2 connectors, about 70 ohms across the other 2. I checked for continuity on the green/yellow wire (W2) from stalk switch to relay - this is good. I have carried out a voltage check to each of the relay wires (W1, W2, C1 & C2) with ignition on and off, and with the switch both on and off with ignition on. Results are as follows: Ignition off: W1 - 12.2v W2 - 0 C1 - 12.2v C2 - 12.2v Ignition on, Switch OFF: W1 - 11.7v W2 - 0 C1 - 11.7v C2 - 11.7v (a little low as fuel pump was running - all were 11.9 with fuel pump off) Ignition on, Switch ON: W1 - 11.7v W2 - 11.7v C1 - 11.7v C2 - 11.7v So question is, where does this lead me?! As far as I can tell, the relay is fine (although I've not heard it working yet) and the wiring to the relay from the stalk is good. I've checked the wiring diagram for the 1972 A type overdrive but it doesn't shed any light on this for me? Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can try next? I don't know anything about the inhibitor switch, is that my next check? Have I missed something obvious or checked the wrong things? Do the readings look as they should? Many thanks in advance! Kind regards Dave
  7. I have a 4 synchro A type o/d box in my TR2. Since starting to use the car again this spring, the o/d has been going in OK but then jumping out/in as I'm driving along. I've checked and topped up the gearbox oil level, and the operating lever adjustment as I had problem with the latter last year. I've now diagnosed it as an issue with the gear lever/selector position in that if I hold the lever back gently whilst in 4th, the O/D stays engaged perfectly (and it operates fine in 3rd without holding the gear lever), if I let the gear lever go whilst in 4th, O/D jumps in and out. So I've worked out what the problem is, but I'm not sure about how to go about fixing it. I don't really want to start by taking out the seats and harnesses (I have Revington bucket seats) and the tunnel first as it is a bit of a pain, so my question is this - is the problem likely to be the o/d switch in the top of the selector housing? Is there a simple adjustment I can make on the gear lever, or is there something else I can check? Any other thoughts or advice would be most welcome.
  8. I have been scratching my head this afternoon with regard to trying to wire up the O/D I have bought new looms from Rimmers.....poss first mistake I have three separate sets of wires one set has two green and yellow spade connectors and these intern are connected to a bullet connector( i guess this connects to the wire from the o/d/switch on the steering column . then there are three spade connectors coloured yellow and purple. i can see from the wiring diagram that one of these goes to the solenoid , so where do the other 2 go? I will stick with this question first before i sort out the next 2 sets of wires
  9. Hi Everyone My better half and I did the "Tour Of The Kingdom" on Sunday in the GT6. This was a 200 mile jaunt around Fife in the company of 33 other assorted classics. Two problems became apaprent during the day-a groaning steering column and a very lazy overdrive. I fitted a 2500S gearbox with J-Type overdrive to the GT6 about 25 years ago. It has always had a noticeable leak or two which I'd long ago given up trying to fix. The downside of this transplant is that the filler plug is not accessable from the underside of the car. I'd planned to make up a remote filler to overcome this but hadn't got around to fitting it before last weekend. I decided instead to drill an access hole in the side of the gearbox cover. When I drained the box I managed to gather a whole half pint of oil instead of the expected 4&1/2. I'd basically been running the gearbox dry. it's a wonder the overdrive operated at all. I was advised to initially refill the gearbox with engine oil since this apparently acts like a flushing agent. The subsequent test drive was a revelation, with the overdrive switiching in and out instantaneously and no whining from the gearbox. From now on I'll be regularly topping up the gearbox to avoid this embarrassment re-occurring. I thought this might be of interest to anyone else suffering similar overdrive or gearbox whine problems. Cheers Alan
  10. Apologies if this has been raised previously but can't find anything. Symptoms; Engine/ g'box cold - o/d works perfectly. Engine/ g'box at full working temp' (approx' 20 miles) - tries to engage but "slides" and usually doesn't properly engage. Sometimes will engage but any tiny movement of the steering column selector stalk results in momentary disengage and then re-engage. Aug 1973 model(125hp) (believe J type o/d on 3rd and 4th). Main o/d unit previously removed and rebuilt professionally. Suggestions please? Not too technical!! Or recommend o/d specialist in Reading/ Basingstoke area. Thanks all.
  11. Greetings, I have used the angle speedometer drive on the "J" type overdrive unit in my TR3A. The car is on temporary licence plates, getting ready for spring and the German TüV. The angle speedometer drive has broken three times, always after I have driven about 120 kilometers. I assumed I had done something wrong the first time but since have carefully followed instructions and it still breaks. I have had two replacements free of charge but now I would rather pay whatever amount to get this straightened out. Help! And thanks for any replies.
  12. Just been out for a spin as the weathers so nice. I backed off the drive and must have had the OD switched on. Pulled away in 1st, changed to 2nd and the OD kicked in. Not had the car in use that long but as its a 73 CR I assumed the J type OD would be fitted. I got home and crawled underneath and yes it looks like a J type to me. No big brass nut but a flat oblong plate. I'm sure its a J type. It all seemed to be working OK Any ideas please ? thanks Paul
  13. Just tried fitting the prop shaft to the TR2 which I am finishing off, having bought it part restored, and find it is about 20mm too short. As far as I know the axle is a later Girling, and the box is standard 3 sincro. Any ideas? Cheers Mike
  14. Ive fitted an A type overdrive for my TR4 and a right angled speedo drive. Looking at the picture it seems to stick out to much for the tranny cover (although I havent tried it on yet). Have I got something wrong here? Also is the drive angled correctly for the cable? Thanks Nick
  15. Hi All My TR5 was not manufactured with an overdrive but a correct A type was fitted by the previous owner. During my full rebuild I would like the engine bay wiring to be correct. Would the overdrive wiring between the fuse box and bulk head have been incorporated into the main harness or would it have a separate harness. Also where should the relay be located? Where would the horn relay have been fitted, I have seen various photos but none consistent. Cheers Sean
  16. After all the Christmas fun and excitement choosing a colour for my TR4A I thought I would share this with you. I had my gearbox and diff rebuilt by Mike Papworth. Mike is pretty well known in Triumph Circles and his work is of superb quality. I shot a small video of Mike talking about his TR and Rebuilding TR Gearboxs and Overdrives. It also has a sneaky look in his sea container of TR diffs, axels, overdrives and gearboxes. A rare look at a guy who has spent a life working at the oily end of our cars. He's a great source if you need anything. Video is here. http://tr4a.weebly.com/gearbox--diff-rebuild.html This is my last post before Christmas so best wishes of the season to you all and the very best for 2014. Paul.
  17. Hi, I'm looking for an A-type overdrive to fit my "standard" gearbox TR5. Or, I could be interested in an overdrive with gearbox. I recently bought a gearbox with J-type overdrive from a 2500 saloon, but would rather have the correct parts for my car (I know the J-type parts may be stronger, but.....). Does anyone have one, or know a man who might? Very cautiously optimistic.... regards Bill
  18. http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/car-advert/triumph/italia/1960/222926/?utm_source=classic_email_alerts&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=classic_cars_for_sale
  19. Hello guys, Before you ask, no, I haven't tried to find an answer via a search engine, because I didn't found this search engine So, sorry if I annoy you, but I need your help : is it possible to fit a speedo cable (longer than original !) on a TR4A IRS with A type overdrive, without one of these b****y angle drive ? The car is a LHD, but I don't think it does matter : my worries go to the chassis who's very close to the speedo output. Any clue/experience/solution ? Thanks for your help (including to find the search engine... ) Cheers !
  20. My 4 is being built with a saloon J type OD. After reading all previous posts I am still not confident that I know the best length of cable to order, or indeed the correct route. As i see it...the drive (on the RHS of the OD) points down by say 30 degree, and any cable would go straight through the holes (already) in the chassis member to appear at the underside of the floor. So far so good, and no right angled drive in sight! I presume that the cable would then turn a slow 90 degree to face forward to enter the engine compartment, and then take a 180 back to go through the bulkhead. Grateful if anyone can confirm that this is indeed what happens and what the best cable length for the route would be? I appreciate that trying it is the obvious suggestion but at this time I do not have the dash in, nor the engine compartment fully furnished, and really want to order and receive, the correct cable first time round. What an optimist! Thanks for the forum advice so far on my build - it has really been invaluable. Norman
  21. Hi does anyone know if it's possible to remove/change the A-type overdrive solenoid without have to remove the gearbox cover. In other words from underneath the car? Cheers, Jim
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