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  1. Really basic question but could somebody tell me whether flicking the overdrive stalk up on a TR5/6 should engage or release the overdrive. Many thanks Tim
  2. Hi, could I get some thoughts on the attached TR2 dash photo please. There are holes in the metal dash (under my A & B stickers) and the holes have been trimmed over. I want to fit an overdrive switch with a separate neon indicator fairly soon, but leaving a thought for a heater switch at some point in the future. Bill P's books show a variety of combinations and layouts in this area of the dash and I was looking for some standard positions to follow. Many Thanks Bob
  3. Hi guys and gals My overdrive investigation continues. The new solenoid has certainly helped with the blowing of fuses, but I can't help but feel that there is something with this 2nd hand o/d that is the root cause of the solenoid problems. Even on today's test drive, on a couple of occasions the solenoid twitched as if it was trying to pull in, but did not actually lift the lever. Fortunately I was being very careful to monitor this and turned off the overdrive within a second or so. 99% of the times I flicked the switch, though, the o/d engaged as it should. What I have notice
  4. Dear Collective As you may recall, I recently removed 3 teeth from the 1st gear portion of my layshaft. I have since obtained the necessary parts to repair the box, including the broken 2nd gear bush that I have found after stripping. The other night, I also bought an interesting overdrive box from a Standard Vanguard / Triumph enthusiast which I hoped to fit to the car so I could take my time rebuilding the original box. It cost less than the spare cogs cost me, so I couldn't resist. We tested the box using a TR4 lump mounted on a test rig, and everything worked as it should (gea
  5. Pezza


    Hi I'm doing the clutch on the TR6, I have a leak coming from the rear of the Overdrive where the prop shaft flange goes in to the Unit Can I remove the nut and take the Flange off and just replace the seal or is there a pre load on this nut. Also if not and I can does anyone know the Torque setting? Thanks
  6. Hi All Well this started a number of months ago when my overdrive started dropping out randomly when in 4th OD. I was sure it was an electrical issue as it could work fine for hours of driving. It appeared to be worse when hot and tended to happen when the revs dropped while still in fourth. I checked all the electric and couldn’t fine a problem and as we were about to head off to Spain and France with the car I decided to leave it alone. We covered 2380 miles, 3 Tr6s with no problems, however my overdrive continued misbehaving, a little worse in the hot weather. However we arrived back i
  7. Hi all, This might seem a strange set of questions but I'm trying to understand how to operate overdrive as I've never driven with this before, and I'm hoping to have my car back soon- it really has been the slowest and most stalled of rebuilds ever known!! I know o/d can be used in 3rd and 4th on mine. 1. When should I operate o/d for the first time on a journey - do I have to be at a certain speed and in 4th at first selection? 2. Do I need to deselect o/d before shifting down from 4th to 3rd? 3. Do I need to deselect o/d before shitfting up from 3rd to 4th? 4. When
  8. Well, new to me anyway... I've been making do with a crescent shaped spanner for my overdrive sump drain plug, getting grazed knuckles in the process, but I recently found out Moss now do a proper ring spanner (part number 521814T) - hopefully makes life that bit easier! Comparison photo attached. Cheers Steve
  9. The Solenoid mount side plate of my overdrive still leaks, even after ensuring the plate was flat, fitting a new gasket and smothering both sides with Hylomar Thicker gasket, silicon sealing compound .....? Anyone faced this and solved the problem with a 'cunning plan' all ideas gratefully received
  10. So I have a new OD solenoid which I was going to fit today, as the garage had a look and said all seemed fine with what was going to it but it was not operating. the wire was disconnected and up on top of the box (I assume the garage had left it off), so had to get the tunnel out to get at it....which was a pain! Reconnected wire to old solenoid, sure enough, a click is only heard from relay when disengaging, nothing from solenoid and no operation. Connected new solenoid (did not install it in situ).....same thing. Put meter on cable to solenoid....sure enough 12.5 ish volts on it when en
  11. Hi i own a CP version UK 1971 TR6 with overdrive, have done since 1979.The car was professionally rebuilt in 1993 and at the same time the gear box was rebuilt by Pete Cox. The car has done only a few thousand miles in the last 25 years. However it does have a problem time to time with gear selection when going into reverse. Twice I’ve knocked it too far over and got it stuck. The first time the gear box had to come out. It’s time this got sorted so can anyone recommend a TR specialist who can replace the worn gear selection mechanism and attend to any other gear box issues they may find
  12. I realized today that the headlights in my '63 TR4 stopped working. And the overdrive also stopped working. I'm very new to this car and not familiar with the electrical system. Thinking things through, I did just finish working on two things related to my electrics: 1.) I just added a battery charger cable/lead to the battery. In doing so, I did touch the wrench to a ground by mistake, creating a spark. 2.) I relocated my dip switch (up higher) to create a dead pedal spot for my left foot . Both fuses appear OK. And reading a few forum entries here on Triumph Experience, I understand the TR4
  13. Had problems with the Overdrive that turned out to be the switch. So I replaced it, but this one is nearly as bad in as much as the overdrive will keep dropping out and reengaging. Are they all from the same source or are some better than others? Definitely the switch because if I put pressure on it I can get The overdrive to cycle! Or has anyone managed a good modification?
  14. Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a pl
  15. Anybody need a Gbox with a jtype and a 6cyl? Would all need re-doing
  16. First time using the Forum today although I confess to being an avid follower and have benefitted from some great advice and tips. I have a Type A Overdrive in my 1970 TR6 which engages straightaway when switched on however it has recently begun to disengage under acceleration? Almost like having a kick-down in an auto transmission vehicle! It quickly re-engages when the throttle is backed off and will cruise happily until an incline is encountered or any additional power is applied. Oil level was fine when last checked prior to being put away for the winter, although that
  17. Hi All Bit of a query with fitting my new(ish) overdrive harness. Now the wiring diagram for the overdrive is pretty simple. But the reality looks a little more complex to me. My A type has three switches mounted on the GB top cover, presumably the various on/off switches to stop engagement at the incorrect times, ie reverse and 1st. So I need to install my Autosparks 863 overdive harness, pictured, and 865 overdrive relay harness. The relay end of the relay harness is simple enough but I’m not sure about the gearbox end. Does anyone have any pic s or diagram of wh
  18. I think I may have finally got to the bottom of why my overdrive was taking an age to disengage. The restrictor valve was blocked. To get to it, I had to dismantle the interior of the car to get the gearbox tunnel out. Was there an easier way to get to the pesky thing? Have I just done something the hard way? Pictures attached of the valve (With a pin in it) and the stripped down TR4A interior. Best. Paul.
  19. I have to replace the wiring for the overdrive on my j type overdrive on my TR 6 C.R as it currently resembles a burnt out sparkler ! A previous owner has used a relay in the circuit which I dont think it should have. It has also been modified to work on three gears. What ampage wire should I be using for the circuit to operate the overdrive ? Should I use a relay in the circuit? MARK
  20. Hello (again) All I have a choice between putting in a J-Type or A-Type overdrive in my restoration project. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts on are this are. I know the A-Type is the correct OD, but is the J-Type a better unit to have? I will keep both units with the car so the next owner (if I ever do sell it!) can change it if they so wish. I have heard that the J-type is the better one to have in your car and use; the A-type can be slower to engage/disengage as well as being more tempremental. Of course, the J-type will give a higher drop in RPM, but I'm guessing going fr
  21. Hi All With a lot of help from a fellow club member,we removed the gearbox from my 1971 Tr 6 today. The reason for removing the box was because the drive started slipping, however it wasn't clear if it was the clutch or the overdrive (A Type). Either way the box had to come out. The clutch was fitted on 27th of April 1993 and has covered approx 95,000 miles. I acquired the car 4 years later and removed the engine and gearbox to replace the ring gear on the flywheel. I decided at the time to leave the clutch and only replaced the fork pin with a new hardened one. This decision has been vin
  22. Hi, When disengaging my overdrive it used to be instant and positive. Now when disengaged it takes time to disengage. Any thoughts? (I'll be able to check the solenoid later today/tomorrow to see how it is operating). Thanks. Paul.
  23. Simple question, whats the correct size spanner for the above? Cheers Iain
  24. I recently purchased a '58 TR3A and the commission tag ends in "LO". The car has Overdrive (love it). But, I just received a British Motor Heritage certificate and it shows the commission number ending in "L" with no "0". Also, under Optional Factory Equipment, it does not list Overdrive. The mystery is how can the commission tag show LO and the car has Overdrive but the Heritage certificate does not ? Thanks!
  25. Hi chaps, A few weeks ago while driving, on excelleration in third gear overdrive it came out of overdrive and excellerated then went back into overdrive, this would also happen in fourth as well without touching the switch, Today I have no overdrive at all, So could this be a symptom of a failure waiting to happen, and now has. I have read fault finding points to check on but was hoping you guys may have encountered a similar fault in the past, Thanks in advance Duncan.
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