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  1. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would lik
  2. Hello, I am looking for a good/refurbished PI Manifold. Needs to fit on a carburator CF head (1973) which has a 23mm dimension between intake ports in the middle But I believe all PIs have this. Jochem
  3. Just wondered if anyone here was interested in doing a comparison test between using Header Wrap and Ceramic Coatings. I ask as I will be fitting a new set of Stainless Manifolds over the winter, and have to decide if I Wrap them or try Ceramic Coating. Now I know that the choice is a bit like Marmite, people either love one and hate the other. I'm not out to convince anyone either way, or actually start a long debate about why people think one is better and for what reasons. What I'm actually interested in is getting some real test results as I can find no actual comparisons on
  4. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http:
  5. Happy New Year I have been reading previous posts regarding Exhaust Manifold Wrap use and there appears to be a lot of mystery. I found this : https://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html Although is American and refers to V8's it seems to comprehensively cover the topic also explains Extractor Exhaust Manifolds! I have had a Phoenix SS 6 3 1 for 7 years on my 6CR and have had no issues, however I have just noticed the wiring on the starter motor has been getting hot so I propose to wrap the starter motor cw wiring with exhaust wrap.
  6. A TR4A friend has suffered a crack/split in his cast manifold. Is it possible to weld or should he look for a replacement? If anybody has a spare available please PM me. Thanks Mike
  7. I know there have been a few threads about this, but guys Im desperate! I have a 1973 car which was brought back from the USA in the 90's and was converted to PI with a donor engine from a 1971 CP car. Ive owned it for the last 17 years, with hardly any issues- superb tick over, good responsive acceleration. Last year it was beginning to run a bit lumpy bottom end on acceleration, so I took it to a rolling road. All was going well, until the mechanic started playing with the throttles, and sprayed carb cleaner on the butterflies. Then he commented that he couldnt adjust one of the sets
  8. Some advice required from the hive-mind please… Last weekend, I had a trouble-free 130 mile round trip in my ’63 TR4. Arriving home, I parked on my drive and went to fetch the garage keys. When I returned, the car wouldn’t start. The red ignition light dimmed when I turned the key but the only other response I could get was a loud clicking sound. I intend to investigate fully at the weekend but am I right to assume it’s probably starter motor related? If so, I imagine it’s going to be an ‘interesting experience’ removing it because I have an original unit squeezed in tightly next to a
  9. The current exhaust system is getting a bit long in the tooth. Bought from TrShop in the late 90,s it's a two box standard system on the standard cast manifold. It has never fitted very well and is getting noisy. What would people recommend as a quality replacement? Cheers Iain
  10. I have been busy today pulling Geoffrey to bits! I am planning to get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated to help to reduce fuel vaporisation. So carbs off (HS6) and inlet manifold removed (only three bloodied knuckles!). I was surprised to see that there was no gaskets! Having searched the forum I note that there have been issues with new gaskets being poor quality and leaking. This may be the reason the PO decided to do without! I was not aware of it leaking so the faces of the block and the manifolds must be pretty good. (Although there does seem to be a bit of oil on the face o
  11. Anybody able to recommend one above the other ? Been doing some research and found a few customers that have had issues with the former but the latter appears twice the price ........get what you pay for I guess but would be interested in anybody's practical experience. ATB Graham
  12. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  13. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber wa
  14. Evening gents, I recently installed a Phoenix ex manifold and I've noticed that the throttle bodies are very hot. They must be around 50 to 60c just to hot to touch. I dont recall being aware of how hot the throttle bodies were before so I dont know if this is acceptable or not. Opinions / experiences welcome. Thanks Steve
  15. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  16. On the basis that Zircotec must be so inundated with TRR discounters to answer the phone or reply to emails, I will be sticking with the plan to go with Camcoat. I understand the options of 2, 3 or 4 coats inside and/or out etc, but a tad confused with the Cermakrome option. I had assumed that it was a sort of polished option for the top external coat, but the options they emailed through imply its an alternative to the above ? I will call em later to talk through, but wondered if anyone had had the Cermakrome option ? If not, what colour finish do the purists suggest it shoul
  17. Pukka Circa half price, seem to be genuine, sealed boxes etc http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00062Z12O/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item Unfortunately the stubstacks will need a little fettling.
  18. The shiney new refurb'ed carbs are on their way home (woohoo) (then just got to test fit, get manifold coated (if I can be bothered), fit new exhaust, take fuel tank out and POR15 slosh / coat it, renew fuel lines, etc etc etc !!!!) As a reminder, I have HS6's on a 4a 307455 manifold (on a 3A mongrel) Air Filter Scanning previous posts, I seem to have two options with K&N's 9096 (standard centre hole pancake) 9327 (cone) as fitted to TuRK ? Does either shape have advantage over t'other ? Does the bottom offset of the 9327 still miss the bonnet (my current are off
  19. Well the birthday didn't last long ! The lower manifold stud closest the bulkhead had been reluctant to come out. Been squirting it with penetrating oil for some time (trying to keep it away from the head gasket !) Also tried gentle tapping (a little) heat and ice to encourage it to move without luck. So went out and bought a stud extractor, only for it to tear off only half the stud! Tried to get the remainder to come out with mole grip, but as you can see, it is just chewing up the metal. Any suggestions ? ​I didn't really want to take the head off as fo
  20. The rough sketch below represents the extractor against the block (laid on their side) Points X and Y are the bottom and top of the 'flange' against the head. The vertical distance between point 'y' and the point where the collector contacts the block is 260mm. So Question 1: In order for the contact point to be increased to say a safe 10mm between collector and block, i.e., increase the 33mm to at least 43mm... (1a) what would be the necessary reduction in depth of the top of the flange at 'y' (my rough guess is 5mm) (1b) what would be the necessary increase in the thickness o
  21. Gents, the workshop manual suggests a torque setting for the "manifold attachment". Forgive my ignorance, but how does one insert a stud with 'torque' or is the reference to the brass nut ? If the reference is to the nut, do i just insert the studs as tight as can be done by hand / pliers ? Also, as I didn't notice when taking the old ones out, is it the slightly shorter length of thread that is inserted into the head ? Also also, should i use anything like lock n seal. Also also also, when removing the starter motor to test fit the new manifold, is there anything that I sh
  22. Following the advice of previous threads, I have bought a TR4 exhaust mounting kit from Moss (GFK6210X) (which has the previously advised 130888 mount) to address the previously botched mounting of mine - (which has a single rigid mount at the back of the rear box onto the round cross member, pushing everything fwds to the exhaust manifold with no more than exhaust paste (and the holes in the chassis) holding the rest together !!! I have one of those exhaust manifolds that goes from 4 - 1 next to the sump, then a long pipe routed through the chassis to a single rear box. Does anyone ha
  23. Well the mongrel beasts are finally out. The underneath shows the effect off having an unsealed collector combined with running rich. Bob was correct, the throttle thin gamy was not properly connected, just nipped on by the nut - could this be a contributor to my woes ? The manifold has a very dark colouring, what is the cause of this, the exhaust smoke being recycled ? Exhaust extractor is also coming out to be replaced with a phoenix that is sealed ! In effect it is 3 'loose' pieces that sit in a forward facing open collect
  24. Well the beast is alive. Took ages to 'fire' (if only i had known!) up....until i turned the jet to 11 flats down (could be old fuel - it is after all 15 weeks old !!!) Kept starting, but dying at anything below 2,000 rpm, but eventuaually managed to tick over when warmed up. Sounded a tad rough (always has) and was still smokey (if only i had known). Took it out for a run, lots of coughing under load and backfiring........but only managed 1 1/2 miles before the fire started 😱 ... ... ... Fortunately not fuel related, but exhaust wrap that I had put on in an atte
  25. Hi, I'm going to remove my throttle bodies and manifold from my CP car and refit to eliminate any possible causes of air leaks and ensure it goes back on square with a throttle body jig so I can finally get those butterflies closed at idle. My question is, are all manifold gaskets the same? I'd like to buy the best there is first time round. I can see the part number is AJM682 sold for £5 or so by the usual outlets but I have also seen a Payen gasket JA510 for £15 and am wondering if it is better. The manifold etc is all standard. Thanks Jim
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