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  1. Having experienced a somewhat notchy engagement in first gear for a while, I recently checked the gearbox and discovered the alignment dowels were missing. Having installed dowels I also took the opportunity to remove excessive play from the clutch mechanism - new bushes on the pedal and an adjustable rod on the master to take up slack caused by wear in the pedal. Engagement is now much better and I can pull away from the lights smoothly. However, the clutch will only fully disengage at max pedal travel - and even then, only if I connect the slave at the top hole. Its only a problem in f
  2. I noticed a couple of holes at the bottom of the gearbox whilst installing the slave cylinder today. I get the rear one is for the drain plug but what is the front one for. Or, what should be filling the hole if anything? Many thanks Paul.
  3. Ok those of you that are regular readers of this forum will probably by now have realised that i spend far to much time surfing the web, probably a symptom of having a 'challenging' desk based job that I have to escape from time to time ! Anyway I've just been looking at an article which suggests changing the standard 3.45:1 CWP out for a 3.7 and then chaining the OD ratio from the standard 'A' type 22.5% to 28% gives lower ratio non OD gears for hooning about whilst providing a slightly higher ratio in OD top for cruising, has any body carried out this mod and was it worth the effort.
  4. Dear All During my Tr4A restoration project, I have come up against a dilemma. A-type over drives seem extremely expensive and so I'm contemplating fitting a J-Type over drive instead. I'm guessing I just need to change the main shaft of my Tr4A non-overdrive gear box to accomodate the J-Type. Other then that are there any other expensive mods I shopuld be worried about? Also would it be easier to just find an late Tr6 or Dolomite sprint gear box with the overdrive that I can just slot into my car or would this require more substanial changes to my Tr4A, i.e. clutch plates etc.? Th
  5. Steve P

    Rattly Gears

    Good evening Gents, I have the gearbox out at the moment. When a gear is engaged and the output shaft is rotated rapidly forwards & backwards I can hear a nice rattle from the gears. Reverse & 4th seem to rattle a bit less. I have no experience with gearboxes but I'm guessing that any play in the gear train should be barley perceptible? Anyone had a Moss refurbished gearbox? Thanks Steve
  6. Sorting through my accumulations of Wedgie parts I came a cross a couple of long misplaced TR6 nos items lurking on the transmission shelves . . . . . I wondered where they'd got to ! These are parts inherited from the late Dave Lightning Brown, but whence they originally came I know not - Revingtons or Racetorations possibly, or maybe Tony Lindsey-Dean ? They must date back to the 1990s I'd reckon, given that the anonymous packaging looked old a dozen years ago ! As to whether that makes them any better or worse than current offerings, your guess is as good as mine . . . . I'm not offer
  7. Hi all, For some time I have had a bit of a problem with the gearbox on my TR6 - more specifically, with the clutch which can be sticky in action. Its only an issue when pulling away in first but I think the time has come for me to resolve it. The gearbox was removed (not by me) a couple of years ago to replace the starter ring gear and it hasn't been the same since, so having read through other posts, I am wondering if it may simply be an alignment issue. My first plan of action is to loosen the bell housing bolts slightly, engage the clutch a few times then retighten the bolts t
  8. marki

    Box Oil ?

    Evening. I know it's come up before but am I right in thinking EP gear oil is now not a good idea for boxes ? After a quick search I've come up with this. What do the experts think ? Cheers Mark
  9. Hello I am currently new to the TR Register and have bought myself a TR4A (solid rear axle option) over the last year and am now in the long process of brining it back to life. This also means thinking ahead and there is a lot to learn! I wanted to see people's opinions on what the best option is with the gearbox. My car came with a 4-speed gearbox and I was considering overhauling this to use. However, my options are keep the 4-speed, upgrade it with an overdrive or put in a 5-speed gearbox from an old Ford. What are peoples recommendations/opinions? Thanks Adam
  10. Hello I would like to know is it possible to fit an overdrive to a standard 4 speed gearbox. The gearbox is on my 1976 north american model TR6 Many Thanks. Graham Buckley
  11. Hi, I just bought this very nice NOS gear shift knob. Can anyone ID the origin based on the reference # on box ? It looks like an old Moss USA reference but I'm not sure. As always
  12. I'm reassembling a TR6 J Type gearbox (Cd 51088) following a rebuild and I've got a bit of dilemma and wondered if any of the gearbox guru's out there could advise me. When I reinstalled the input shaft it would not go fully home into the gearbox casing and that the gears were prevented from rotating freely. With it removed I checked the length of the new needle roller bearing (Catalogue Item 10. Pt. No. 158368). It measured .620" (15.7mm). The old bearing measured .589" (14.9mm). I assumed that this was the problem, the excess length preventing the input shaft from going fully home, possibly
  13. Hi All The rubber components on my a type solenoid are all perished and I would like to replace them with some good quality ones. With all the talk of rubber replacement parts not being up to scratch. Can any of you recommend a good supplier. thanks ,Mark.
  14. Since my sticky clutch issue which I think is resolved, I now I have a gearbox issue. I had the box sorted last year and I have only done a 1000 miles since. The box has been out 3 times now because of the clutch, twice in the last couple of months. I am having a problem getting 2nd mainly but sometimes 1st. No problem getting 1st when I stop and sometimes 1st and 2nd are perfect for a good drive, this has only been happening in the last couple of months, initially I thought it was my sticky clutch but now i think it's more sinister. 2nd gear seems to fight me and if I push to hard it will cr
  15. Good morning from France, On a set of original old used spare parts, I discovered a gearbox vibration damper, as per the service note n° 2/53 dated May 1966 (for reference see the attached 2 pages, thanks' to Bad frog (RIP)via the British car US Forum), this parts was incorporated on TR4 models at approximately comm. N° CT18000 to reduce vibration between engine speeds of 2700 and 300 r.p.m.. Another source (not documented)say, installed on the TR4 from CT17815 to CT35719. This part was introduced for the TR4 (Cong 4 cyl. + GB w/ or w/o OD) is it a part suitable & useful for the
  16. Hi I have been getting inconsistent issues with my A type OD, Solenoid always clicks, but delay in OD engaging, but it always would, today, engage OD, and it either does nothing, no drop in rpm... or no drive at all which seems to happen now 90% of the time, but normal service resumes with OD off. Oil levels are ok... Any ideas, or pointers appreciated. Thanks
  17. Hello All, Help with this one please......how critical is it that the correct locating pin be used according to which cap is fitted? See here http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/gearboxes-components/gearbox-units-external-components.html , items 40 & 42. I have item 42 (2 off) when the manual says I require the other. Neither version of pin is available at the moment. Regards, Richard.
  18. I've been offered an A type overdrive (in exchnage for a good bottle of red wine )which came off a Stag and I'd like to fit it to my TR4 It was working when removed a couple of years ago to be replaced with a J type Assuming once checked & overhauled it works well, I understand the are specific adaptor plates required which differ on the TR4. I am also led to believe that the gearbox extension can be taken off and the overdrive dotted in its place with no alteration required to the driveshaft - is this correct? Apart from column switch what other bits and pieces do I need?
  19. Hi I have a TR2 with an uprated all synchro gearbox with uprated overdrive currently running 20w/50 oil. That was changed last spring since when I've only done about 600 miles The box has been trouble free until this year when it has become increasingly difficult to change gear when the gearbox is hot. There are no problems when the engine and box are cold but once up to temperature it’s becoming a nuisance I’ve changed the clutch fluid (which had been overlooked) which has improved the gear change but the problem has persisted. Because it improved, it might point to clutch issues
  20. All whilst out for a drive in the 6 earlier today, SWMBO commented upon the amount of heat getting to her legs from the area of the gearbox, she found it a might uncomfortable. To be fair, whilst I was aware of the footwell area being warmer than the rest of the cockpit, I didn't feel that the heat was excessive . . . . . . maybe I'm just used to it. Is this "excessive" heat normal, or are there issues here that need to be addressed? Is there any form of heat shielding available, designed to counter this? Many thanks in advance
  21. Hi, before rushing of buying new solenoid, I'd like to know how a faulty solenoid manifests itself. OD engages sometimes at once and often not and occasionally after a couple of minutes. I've checked output from relay and it always "clicks" and have 12+ output on terminal to solenoid when flipping the stalk. OD mechanically works when solenoid "donk"/engages, so as far as I can understand it must be a problem with the solenoid, or ....?
  22. Hi all. On my TR4A, I had to replace the clutch, throwout bearing and carrier, cross shaft and pretty much everything inside the bell housing as the previous starter motor blew up and sent all its springs into the housing causing all kind of mess. Since refitting the new stuff I have found a loud grinding noise whenever the clutch is pressed. This happens when the car is both in and out of gear, when even the slightest pressure is put on the clutch pedal. I am trying to think what it is, and I know it can't be worn parts as they are all new so the only answer is that I have installed s
  23. Hi all, I need to replace the clutch release bearing and carrier on my 4A. I think I have a Triumph 2000 gearbox with J type OD but would like confirmation. This was fitted about 20 years ago by the previous owner. The detent balls & springs in top cover are (or were) held by the press-in caps, not threaded grub screws. The clutch release fork has the two slipper pads to hold the bearing carrier and the carrier ID is 42mm and bearing OD is 77mm. I have another gearbox which may be a 4A box with A type OD where the carrier ID is larger at 52mm ID with the bearing OD at 85mm.
  24. Excellent day at the Office for the gearbox seminar. Many thanks to all involved in the organisation and especially to Pete for spending his day sharing his knowledge with us. I did find it amusing that Pete could install the layshaft in two minutes. The last time I tried, it took me 3 days. Jerry
  25. TR Register Technical Seminar #2 Triumph TR2 – TR6 Gearboxes with Pete Cox. Saturday 9th May 2015. 10am – 4pm. Places limited to 30. Price: £50 per person. All bookings for this seminar are for TR Register members only. Book online now: http://www.tr-regist...inar-2108-p.asp Agenda Introduction Dismantle & Inspection Parts Requirement Improvements/Upgrades Reassembly/Refitting/Testing Question and Answer Session The seminar will include the removing and refitting, but not the rebuild of the overdrive unit. If you require any specific information particular to a specific model
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