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Found 181 results

  1. Hi everyone, I am new to this forum having just bought a 4a IRS a couple of months ago. Other than oil drips from the usual places the car has been running well having had engine/gearbox/overdrive all rebuilt in 2009/10 and only covered 3500 miles since. However last time out, selecting 1st at about 2-3 mph (at a speed hump) it didn't engage properly and graunched until I had the wit to stop trying to engage it! I have become quite familiar with driving the car and I have no doubt that I had the clutch properly depressed. I have engaged 1st at slow speed before and the syncro has been fine. So this time I think the syncro failed in some way, But does still work on subsequent 1st gear engagements. However there is now a slight, but noticeable, whine to the gearbox as a whole - this definitely coincided with the above event. This is evident on idle when the clutch is engaged. With clutch depressed the whine stops. It's also noticeable while driving, although hard to hear in 3rd and 4th, most noticeable in 2nd, and somewhat in 1st though 1st always a bit noisier anyway. I think I know the answer to my own question - Is it gearbox out and strip down? I guess it is. Not worked on the mechanics of a TR before, but have fully maintained/rebuilt a race kit car with a fireblade bike engine in it. Taking the gearbox apart seems a bit daunting and also I suspect a lengthy elapsed time. My engine/gear related experience is limited to cylinder head off/on, clutches, carbs, etc on the fireblade. No rebuild experience. Advice please - attempt it myself or pay to have my nearby classic car garage sort it? Thanks, Graham
  2. Morning Wise Ones! I am about to replace my speedo cable as the existing one went "twang". When doing so is it easier to start at the gearbox end and route upwards to the speedometer or vice versa?
  3. Hi everyone Penrite GB 40 is often recommended on here for gearboxes, as is their 20/60 Classic engine oil - this latter product is stocked by the TRR shop at a good price of £27.00 for 5 litres, but the gearbox oil isn't - anyone know why it isn't stocked? Other sources for the g/box oil almost all seem to start at £30 upwards for 5 litres plus typically £6-7 for P&P - Classic 20/60 engine oil seems to be at the same sort of price level, so it would seem reasonable to assume the cost to the TRR of GB40 would be similar and then we could all take advantage of a good discount. Anyone know a good source for GB40 at a similarly competitive price? Also, as Penrite are sponsors of various TRR initiatives, why can't the shop stock more of their products? Just an observation! cheers Rich
  4. If you have a multi tool set and have ever wondered what the T47 Torx driver bit is used for, I have a solution. If you need to remove the small 3/8" plugs that hold the detent springs in the gear selector casing, then the T47 is perfect. Tap the driver bit into the plug and then turn the bit with a spanner and the plug will come out and the best bit the plug is reusable as they are currently NLA. Cheers Graeme
  5. Hi All, I've currently got the gearbox out of my CR series TR6, to try and stop an oil leak.. Hopefully that is cured, but while its out I was planning to replace the standard rear gearbox mounts.. The trouble is I can't seem to get at the nut on the underside! Do I need to remove the whole mounting plate? Whichever way I try and get at a bolt the other side always seems to be inacessible! Maybe I just need to keep trying, but is there a knack to it? It's a standard late CR series overdrive gearbox, not one from a converted saloon, as far as I know. Thanks in advance. Richard
  6. TonyC

    Gearbox oil leak

    Hi All (again) Got the top off the gearbox in what might be a futile attempt to stem the flow of oil past the O rings on the three selector shafts. The plugs holding in the springs and balls which locate in the shaft indents have holes in them, so have been previously removed using a self tapper and lever. (See pics) I am reluctant to repeat this process as I may stretch the holes to a point where they won't retain the spring and ball. Anyone know of a source for replacement plugs? All of our usual TR suppliers list these parts as no longer available. I know these plugs gave been replaced with screw in type plugs ie similar to grub screws, but this needs the holes tapped and of course a source for the grub screws. Any info here would be appreciated. Many thanks, TonyC
  7. So, first off allow me to apologize but I have searched existing discussions and even though my question is so simple and basic I just cannot find the answer. My TR 6 CC81751 originally had an overdrive but is now a 4 speed. The speedo angle drive is still in place. Can I simply remove it and put the speedo cable straight into the gearbox? Do I just twist the knurled collar off and replace it with the one already on the end of the new cable I am trying to install? BTW, I am replace the carpet and the gearbox cover and drive shaft tunnel so access is easy. thanks
  8. hi could someone please let me know Peter Cox phone number as i need my gearbox looking at as part of my TR6 restoration thanks Len
  9. Hi All, My TR6 has for some time left its mark (an oil puddle!) whenever it has been for a run.. ;o) But as it is quite bad, I've decided it's time to do something about it! I suspect it's the front gearbox oil seal, as it drips from the bellhousing, and is definitely gearbox oil. I've not yet got the gearbox out, but plan to soon.. I remember reading an article in an old TR Action, by Tony Lindsey Dean I think.. that there are some replacement oil seals that are better than others..! Or some to avoid?.. I don't want to be doing it again soon afterwards..! Soooo.. Does anyone know which one (brand?), or where I should get one from.. Or even ones to avoid..! Any pointers would be helpful.. Thanks in advance.. Richard
  10. Gearbox and overdrive seem to be working ok but on a recent run heard a brief metallic ping like a bolt head flying around the bell housing just as I pulled away in first. Drove home about 300 k with out problem but did hear the ping again but only occasionally in first. Went for a run the other day and there was noticeable whine from box when on over run but none in drive. Whine was similar to tyre noise on concrete surface and more pronounced when box was still cold. Any ideas / checks / tests before I pull the box out.
  11. I'm slowly clearing out my stocks of surplus sidescreen TR parts. Everything is For Sale from a top grade 3A gearbox to a new front grille, new Lucas screenwash bottle, new vent lid, new BL badges to pre-used fuel tank, door-handles, badges etc. More parts to follow. They're a click away here on Buy/Sell/Trade, btw our club's website has a far superior rate of successful sales for my TR parts than the dreaded eBay. Happy TR-ing, Pat. Memb No; 2110.
  12. So far as I can tell, there is no reason why I cannot put the above in a 3A ? With the std straight lever, apart from punching the dash, I also turn the stereo on/off with each gear change. There seem to be two types, 131507 and 143624. Apart from minor dimension differences, is there any other meaningful difference. I assume that as a matter of best practice, I should change the anti rattle spring and lever. Is this a job a muppet like me can undertake without screwing up ?
  13. Hi Guys, Gearbox # CG122894 I know that this subject has been discussed before but this gearbox # doesn't fit any info that I can find. It is a non-O/D 'box and was fitted to a TR6 which was an O/D car so it's not the original 'box for that car. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers Graeme
  14. Having experienced a somewhat notchy engagement in first gear for a while, I recently checked the gearbox and discovered the alignment dowels were missing. Having installed dowels I also took the opportunity to remove excessive play from the clutch mechanism - new bushes on the pedal and an adjustable rod on the master to take up slack caused by wear in the pedal. Engagement is now much better and I can pull away from the lights smoothly. However, the clutch will only fully disengage at max pedal travel - and even then, only if I connect the slave at the top hole. Its only a problem in first and reverse, but its a problem nonetheless an needs to be corrected. Having read through other posts on the subject, I am being led to a supposition that the taper pin may be broken. Unfortunately, it seems that I will need to remove the gearbox in order to get to it. Joy of joys! Given this, I am throwing this out there to see if there is anything else (more accessible) that I might have overlooked? Both master and slave are relatively new and leak free. I have checked for excessive play at the master and cannot see any. Fluid is also new. Thanks in advance, Steve
  15. I noticed a couple of holes at the bottom of the gearbox whilst installing the slave cylinder today. I get the rear one is for the drain plug but what is the front one for. Or, what should be filling the hole if anything? Many thanks Paul.
  16. Ok those of you that are regular readers of this forum will probably by now have realised that i spend far to much time surfing the web, probably a symptom of having a 'challenging' desk based job that I have to escape from time to time ! Anyway I've just been looking at an article which suggests changing the standard 3.45:1 CWP out for a 3.7 and then chaining the OD ratio from the standard 'A' type 22.5% to 28% gives lower ratio non OD gears for hooning about whilst providing a slightly higher ratio in OD top for cruising, has any body carried out this mod and was it worth the effort. BUO's box and diff. are out for rebuild and the initial reports are that the CWP is marginal anyway. If my appalling maths is correct the final drive ratio in top would be 2.32:1 with the standard set up and 2.29:1 with the modified top. I have another 'what if' I'll post latter today but for now ATB Graham
  17. Dear All During my Tr4A restoration project, I have come up against a dilemma. A-type over drives seem extremely expensive and so I'm contemplating fitting a J-Type over drive instead. I'm guessing I just need to change the main shaft of my Tr4A non-overdrive gear box to accomodate the J-Type. Other then that are there any other expensive mods I shopuld be worried about? Also would it be easier to just find an late Tr6 or Dolomite sprint gear box with the overdrive that I can just slot into my car or would this require more substanial changes to my Tr4A, i.e. clutch plates etc.? Thanks Adam
  18. Steve P

    Rattly Gears

    Good evening Gents, I have the gearbox out at the moment. When a gear is engaged and the output shaft is rotated rapidly forwards & backwards I can hear a nice rattle from the gears. Reverse & 4th seem to rattle a bit less. I have no experience with gearboxes but I'm guessing that any play in the gear train should be barley perceptible? Anyone had a Moss refurbished gearbox? Thanks Steve
  19. Sorting through my accumulations of Wedgie parts I came a cross a couple of long misplaced TR6 nos items lurking on the transmission shelves . . . . . I wondered where they'd got to ! These are parts inherited from the late Dave Lightning Brown, but whence they originally came I know not - Revingtons or Racetorations possibly, or maybe Tony Lindsey-Dean ? They must date back to the 1990s I'd reckon, given that the anonymous packaging looked old a dozen years ago ! As to whether that makes them any better or worse than current offerings, your guess is as good as mine . . . . I'm not offering these to the whole wide world via the main website, we'll see if any Forumite would like them . . . . First off, what looks to me like a bog standard UKC662 17 tooth laygear, as fitted to later TR6 - 1973 onwards I think, although plenty of older cars by now are utilising later internals I suppose. Just the bare laygear, no bearings or shaft or ancillaries. Second off is an 'uprated' UKC662 laygear, and layshaft, as in fitted with a trio of open cage bearings rather than just the two. You can see the internal difference in the photos, doubled up bearings at the gear end. This is the laygear itself, the three bearings, and the layshaft - no ancillaries, washers, circlips or whatever. Current price of a standard UKC662 seems to be £170 upwards, depending which specialist you're looking at . . . . so how does £110 + postage sound ? As for the uprated assembly including shaft, prices seem to be anything from £225 to upwards of £300 depending on whose version you choose. I'd have thought £160 + postage might be about right ? If you're interested, by all means send me a PM, or email or ring if you know my contact details ! Cheers Alec
  20. Hi all, For some time I have had a bit of a problem with the gearbox on my TR6 - more specifically, with the clutch which can be sticky in action. Its only an issue when pulling away in first but I think the time has come for me to resolve it. The gearbox was removed (not by me) a couple of years ago to replace the starter ring gear and it hasn't been the same since, so having read through other posts, I am wondering if it may simply be an alignment issue. My first plan of action is to loosen the bell housing bolts slightly, engage the clutch a few times then retighten the bolts to see if I can pull things into alignment. Several posts mention special aligning dowel bolts but I can see no mention of these in the brown book or the Haynes manual. Some posts mention two bolts, others three. It may well be that these are missing. Can anyone confirm which of the 9 upper and 7 lower bolts these should be and how I would recognise them? Thanks Steve
  21. marki

    Box Oil ?

    Evening. I know it's come up before but am I right in thinking EP gear oil is now not a good idea for boxes ? After a quick search I've come up with this. What do the experts think ? Cheers Mark
  22. Hello I am currently new to the TR Register and have bought myself a TR4A (solid rear axle option) over the last year and am now in the long process of brining it back to life. This also means thinking ahead and there is a lot to learn! I wanted to see people's opinions on what the best option is with the gearbox. My car came with a 4-speed gearbox and I was considering overhauling this to use. However, my options are keep the 4-speed, upgrade it with an overdrive or put in a 5-speed gearbox from an old Ford. What are peoples recommendations/opinions? Thanks Adam
  23. Hello I would like to know is it possible to fit an overdrive to a standard 4 speed gearbox. The gearbox is on my 1976 north american model TR6 Many Thanks. Graham Buckley
  24. Hi, I just bought this very nice NOS gear shift knob. Can anyone ID the origin based on the reference # on box ? It looks like an old Moss USA reference but I'm not sure. As always
  25. I'm reassembling a TR6 J Type gearbox (Cd 51088) following a rebuild and I've got a bit of dilemma and wondered if any of the gearbox guru's out there could advise me. When I reinstalled the input shaft it would not go fully home into the gearbox casing and that the gears were prevented from rotating freely. With it removed I checked the length of the new needle roller bearing (Catalogue Item 10. Pt. No. 158368). It measured .620" (15.7mm). The old bearing measured .589" (14.9mm). I assumed that this was the problem, the excess length preventing the input shaft from going fully home, possibly a bad or incorrect bearing had been supplied. However, Rimmers assure me that all their stock is the same and there been no other complaints. Checking with Moss they measured a bearing for me and it was a similar 15.6mm approx. If anyone has access to a bearing would they please measure it's length for me? Would the excess bearing length cause this problem or what else might it be? Thanks Alan.
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