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  1. Dear all. I need some help. I just got out the engine and gearbox of a CP chassis TR6 but the gearbox was sitting on a bracket fitted in front of the gearbox mountings. Does this mean that the car is fitted with a J type overdrive or does it have a saloon car overdrive? Photos attached. What I find strange is that there is an overdrive on the 2nd gear as well which to all I know was not offered in a J type. Photos attached. I hope this is not a CP car with a CR chassis
  2. I can not select reverse without crashing the gearbox on my 3A I have spoken to the gearbox specialist in the back cover of TRaction. He says that it must be the clutch. After all my troubles with the slave cylinder over the summer I am sure that the push rod is correctly adjusted. My gear knob will not lift up when I select reverse. Could this be the problem? Why does it have to lift anyway? The release bearing is making a low grumble and will be replaced this winter. Any advice welcome. Thanks, Richard & H.
  3. Trying to resurrect a gearbox from bits in the garage found a nice case but the oil drain plug is stuck fast into the side. It is difficult to get at because the bulge for the reverse gear is just close The drain plug is nicely rounded off and I can't hold the plug to twist it I have left it with penetrating oil round it but not progressed so far Is it alright to get my oxy-acetylene torch out and heat it or do you try to drill it out Somebody must have resolved this before All useful past experience appreciated Thanks in advance Michael
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  5. Having just covered 2000 miles in the sunshine of France I have returned with a need to improve the cruising experience. So the question is how do I alter the gearing to reduce revs in top gear. I have a late '71 6 with A type overdrive, I know it's possible to put in a foreign box but I like the overdrive and wouldn't like to lose it. I have considered the pipe and slippers version with a burbling V8 but I'm just not old enough for that yet! Any thoughts??
  6. My overdrive has stopped. There is no click from the solenoid. I have checked the terminals on the relay and there is power to all points except C2. This must mean that the relay is dead or am I making another faulty diagnosis? Thanks Richard & H
  7. Overdrive has never worked since I bought my TR5 a while ago. The relay could be heard clicking on switching into overdrive (in 2nd, 3rd and 4th) but no movement /noise from the solenoid. I recently removed the gearbox tunnel as part of an exhaust change (new brackets need etc) and decided to get to grips with the o/d problem. A quick test showed that there is 12v to the solenoid when overdrive is switched in but o/d does not engage. A quick inspection of the solenoid revealed a brown substance resembling molten resin which had run down the cylinder internally I think and solidified around th
  8. Hi guys I'm having a bit of an annoying issue with my TR4A (non OD) box. Usually everything is fine, unless i try to do some deccelerating in 2nd gear, when it decides it doesn't want to stay there and pops back to neutral. It only happens in 2nd gear, and only when deccelerating, whether coming to a stop at the set of lights or driving downhill. When trying to hold on to the gear lever, it feels like quite a force that wants to kick it out of the gear. I fear a box needind a total rebuild, but could it be something more trivial rather than worn shaft or damaged bearing? Cheers!
  9. Morning all! Had a go at removing the large yellow metal drain plug from my A type overdrive - just to check and clean the filter, but think bonded in my time and neglect, and is reluctant to budge. Any tips before I start to think of lump hammers and cold chisels? This is part 821812 on P55 of the current Moss catalog, and is 50GBP! So is this a left hand thread? Unlikely me thinks? Gentle heat? Just get on with it? Thanks, Richard
  10. I am rebuilding an overdrive gearbox to put in my TR4. The front end of the input shaft which enters the flywheel spigot bearing looks worn. Can anyone tell me what the correct diameter of that end should be.
  11. Hi all. My car will be coming off the road mid August for some work. When it's off the road I will have the box out and send it for repair. The box was rebuilt about 5 yrs ago but over the last year it has become more and more difficult to select gears especially when cold. The whole clutch assembly was replaced last year and I was hoping this would fix it, unfortunately not. I'm looking for some recommendations please. Many thanks Mark.
  12. I get quite a severe rattle / vibration in the gear lever when under power in 2nd & 3rd gear (1960 3a) This doesn't go away if I put my hand on the knob (please - this isn't a Carry On script...) so it doesn't seem to be related to play. No vibration in 4th. Applies whether or not the overdrive is engaged. Any thoughts on the cause anyone? If you don't mind I'd prefer a diagnosis which involves a cheap and easy solution.... Keith
  13. Hi everyone, I am new to this forum having just bought a 4a IRS a couple of months ago. Other than oil drips from the usual places the car has been running well having had engine/gearbox/overdrive all rebuilt in 2009/10 and only covered 3500 miles since. However last time out, selecting 1st at about 2-3 mph (at a speed hump) it didn't engage properly and graunched until I had the wit to stop trying to engage it! I have become quite familiar with driving the car and I have no doubt that I had the clutch properly depressed. I have engaged 1st at slow speed before and the syncro has been
  14. Morning Wise Ones! I am about to replace my speedo cable as the existing one went "twang". When doing so is it easier to start at the gearbox end and route upwards to the speedometer or vice versa?
  15. Hi everyone Penrite GB 40 is often recommended on here for gearboxes, as is their 20/60 Classic engine oil - this latter product is stocked by the TRR shop at a good price of £27.00 for 5 litres, but the gearbox oil isn't - anyone know why it isn't stocked? Other sources for the g/box oil almost all seem to start at £30 upwards for 5 litres plus typically £6-7 for P&P - Classic 20/60 engine oil seems to be at the same sort of price level, so it would seem reasonable to assume the cost to the TRR of GB40 would be similar and then we could all take advantage of a good discount.
  16. If you have a multi tool set and have ever wondered what the T47 Torx driver bit is used for, I have a solution. If you need to remove the small 3/8" plugs that hold the detent springs in the gear selector casing, then the T47 is perfect. Tap the driver bit into the plug and then turn the bit with a spanner and the plug will come out and the best bit the plug is reusable as they are currently NLA. Cheers Graeme
  17. Hi All, I've currently got the gearbox out of my CR series TR6, to try and stop an oil leak.. Hopefully that is cured, but while its out I was planning to replace the standard rear gearbox mounts.. The trouble is I can't seem to get at the nut on the underside! Do I need to remove the whole mounting plate? Whichever way I try and get at a bolt the other side always seems to be inacessible! Maybe I just need to keep trying, but is there a knack to it? It's a standard late CR series overdrive gearbox, not one from a converted saloon, as far as I know. Thanks in advance. Ri
  18. Hi All (again) Got the top off the gearbox in what might be a futile attempt to stem the flow of oil past the O rings on the three selector shafts. The plugs holding in the springs and balls which locate in the shaft indents have holes in them, so have been previously removed using a self tapper and lever. (See pics) I am reluctant to repeat this process as I may stretch the holes to a point where they won't retain the spring and ball. Anyone know of a source for replacement plugs? All of our usual TR suppliers list these parts as no longer available. I know these plugs gave been repl
  19. So, first off allow me to apologize but I have searched existing discussions and even though my question is so simple and basic I just cannot find the answer. My TR 6 CC81751 originally had an overdrive but is now a 4 speed. The speedo angle drive is still in place. Can I simply remove it and put the speedo cable straight into the gearbox? Do I just twist the knurled collar off and replace it with the one already on the end of the new cable I am trying to install? BTW, I am replace the carpet and the gearbox cover and drive shaft tunnel so access is easy. thanks
  20. hi could someone please let me know Peter Cox phone number as i need my gearbox looking at as part of my TR6 restoration thanks Len
  21. Hi All, My TR6 has for some time left its mark (an oil puddle!) whenever it has been for a run.. ;o) But as it is quite bad, I've decided it's time to do something about it! I suspect it's the front gearbox oil seal, as it drips from the bellhousing, and is definitely gearbox oil. I've not yet got the gearbox out, but plan to soon.. I remember reading an article in an old TR Action, by Tony Lindsey Dean I think.. that there are some replacement oil seals that are better than others..! Or some to avoid?.. I don't want to be doing it again soon afterwards..! Soooo.. Does anyone kno
  22. Gearbox and overdrive seem to be working ok but on a recent run heard a brief metallic ping like a bolt head flying around the bell housing just as I pulled away in first. Drove home about 300 k with out problem but did hear the ping again but only occasionally in first. Went for a run the other day and there was noticeable whine from box when on over run but none in drive. Whine was similar to tyre noise on concrete surface and more pronounced when box was still cold. Any ideas / checks / tests before I pull the box out.
  23. I'm slowly clearing out my stocks of surplus sidescreen TR parts. Everything is For Sale from a top grade 3A gearbox to a new front grille, new Lucas screenwash bottle, new vent lid, new BL badges to pre-used fuel tank, door-handles, badges etc. More parts to follow. They're a click away here on Buy/Sell/Trade, btw our club's website has a far superior rate of successful sales for my TR parts than the dreaded eBay. Happy TR-ing, Pat. Memb No; 2110.
  24. So far as I can tell, there is no reason why I cannot put the above in a 3A ? With the std straight lever, apart from punching the dash, I also turn the stereo on/off with each gear change. There seem to be two types, 131507 and 143624. Apart from minor dimension differences, is there any other meaningful difference. I assume that as a matter of best practice, I should change the anti rattle spring and lever. Is this a job a muppet like me can undertake without screwing up ?
  25. Hi Guys, Gearbox # CG122894 I know that this subject has been discussed before but this gearbox # doesn't fit any info that I can find. It is a non-O/D 'box and was fitted to a TR6 which was an O/D car so it's not the original 'box for that car. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers Graeme
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