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  1. I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
  2. Evening all. Has anyone ever had the same problem? Gearbox stuck in gear unable to disengage? Any helpful answers would be appreciated. Cheers clem
  3. Anybody need a Gbox with a jtype and a 6cyl? Would all need re-doing
  4. Hi Guys. Do i have drain gearbox oil to replace sump gasket on j type over drive ?. Thanks any help gratfully received.
  5. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  6. First time using the Forum today although I confess to being an avid follower and have benefitted from some great advice and tips. I have a Type A Overdrive in my 1970 TR6 which engages straightaway when switched on however it has recently begun to disengage under acceleration? Almost like having a kick-down in an auto transmission vehicle! It quickly re-engages when the throttle is backed off and will cruise happily until an incline is encountered or any additional power is applied. Oil level was fine when last checked prior to being put away for the winter, although that
  7. I have no history with my car, but what it does have is a factory recon gearbox, I am looking to replace the 2nd gear , and it appears there are several available. Without taking the gear to a supplier ,can I find out the the gearboxes specification with the factory identification number, original number not readable. Thanks Mark
  8. I think I may have finally got to the bottom of why my overdrive was taking an age to disengage. The restrictor valve was blocked. To get to it, I had to dismantle the interior of the car to get the gearbox tunnel out. Was there an easier way to get to the pesky thing? Have I just done something the hard way? Pictures attached of the valve (With a pin in it) and the stripped down TR4A interior. Best. Paul.
  9. This is next thing on my 'to-do' list.... Anyone on here with any first hand experience by which they could make me a recommendation please? PM me if you prefer. Many thanks.
  10. A couple of items I've purchased in the past couple of weeks, which seem to me like particularly good value . . . . On the 'bay, GL4 gear oil, 5lts for a little over £18 delivered, Millers are reliable folks in my experience https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-EP-80W90-GL4-Mineral-Gear-Gearbox-Rear-Axle-Oil-5-L-5320GG/272070758210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and from Fluids in Motorsport, a box of 4 x 4lts Silkolube delivered for £64 . . . . an engine oil I've used for many years and found more than satisfactory https://shop.fluidsinmotors
  11. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matt
  12. Hello (again) All I have a choice between putting in a J-Type or A-Type overdrive in my restoration project. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts on are this are. I know the A-Type is the correct OD, but is the J-Type a better unit to have? I will keep both units with the car so the next owner (if I ever do sell it!) can change it if they so wish. I have heard that the J-type is the better one to have in your car and use; the A-type can be slower to engage/disengage as well as being more tempremental. Of course, the J-type will give a higher drop in RPM, but I'm guessing going fr
  13. Anybody used auto gear shop on eBay, they have a 100% feed back trading since 2005 supplying classic and modern gearbox parts ,oil seals and gaskets. They have quite an extensive triumph range of products Mark
  14. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off be
  15. Hi All With a lot of help from a fellow club member,we removed the gearbox from my 1971 Tr 6 today. The reason for removing the box was because the drive started slipping, however it wasn't clear if it was the clutch or the overdrive (A Type). Either way the box had to come out. The clutch was fitted on 27th of April 1993 and has covered approx 95,000 miles. I acquired the car 4 years later and removed the engine and gearbox to replace the ring gear on the flywheel. I decided at the time to leave the clutch and only replaced the fork pin with a new hardened one. This decision has been vin
  16. Hi, When disengaging my overdrive it used to be instant and positive. Now when disengaged it takes time to disengage. Any thoughts? (I'll be able to check the solenoid later today/tomorrow to see how it is operating). Thanks. Paul.
  17. Hi there, I am looking to have the engine from my TR4a rebuilt (along with the gearbox) and would ask if anyone can highly recommend any specialist they have used over the past few years - preferably in the Oxfordshire/Berkshire area - although not essential if it's the right person. If anyone has had a full new rebuild, an indication on cost and time it took? Obvosuly every case is individual, but a ballpark would be nice to know. Thanks in advance Paul
  18. The gearbox and overdrive on my CP-series 6 leak copious quantities of oil. Whenever I remove the filler plug to top up, a 'whoosh' of air escapes, implying that the 'box is pressurised, so not breathing properly. I've tried to find the breather to see if it's blocked. Searching the forum I found this thread, indicating the breather is a 2mm hole at the front of the top cover: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/31782-invisible-gearbox-oil-breather/ I also found this image online, with bent wire helpfully showing the location of the breather on a '74 TR6, which con
  19. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  20. Hi Guys. ​My overdrive solenoid has oil leak, I have the o rings and the oil seals just wondering if I can replace the seals from under the car or not? and is there any way of lining it up up on reefing or just mark the solenoid and overdrive unit before removal ?. The solenoid works fine just have a oil leak and do I have to top up the oil on the overdrive unit and how .Thanks
  21. Hi, Suffering from the deaded sticky clutch when hot. Having looked at the forum suspect it might possibly be missalignment of the bellhousing to the engine back plate. I thought there should be 2 x 3/8" "alignment" bolts one at 2 oclock the other at 8 oclock. However no sign of the thicker 3/8" one at 8 oclock. Nor any sign of the back plate or bell housing ever having a hole large enough to accept this bigger bolt. (although the existing 5/16" bolt is a bit of a sloppy fit). All the holes are the same size accept the 2 oclock one and the starter hole bolts. Should all TR6 have thi
  22. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 mil
  23. Hi all, This is a TR4 Clutch conundrum My problem and question is about a mix of TR4 and TR4A parts. Some history: I purchased FML604B, a TR4 1964 UK 2 owner car in Summer 2014, complete with late 1980's set of heritage body panels. Most outside panels are still in original patina Conifer Green, wire wheels and overdrive, I have the heritage certificate to confirm the build. I have spent the last year building up the body tub from basically a front bulkhead and a rear deck. This has gone smoothly, brilliant panel fits, chassis was rock solid with no bends or welds so used as a good jig
  24. Hi all - in the process of taking the gearbox out as the O/D needs looking at and have hit my first hurdle. Struggling to undo the bolts holding the propshaft to the gearbox. Is there a trick to this or is it just brute force/heat/WD40 etc? Thanks, Steve
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