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  1. Hi, I’d appreciate some advice on my 1970 TR6 clutch problems.......... I rebuilt my TR6 over lockdown. ‘New’ chassis and body, swapping the engine and box over from one chassis to the other without doing anything major to them because they were working perfectly, and they have been undisturbed for at least 24 years with fairly limited mileage. My first big drive was to Malvern last year when I found getting into 2nd gear difficult, especially going down from 3rd . Since then it has been getting progressively worse, to the point where it is no fun driving it. I’ve tried a few fi
  2. I have an issue with 2nd gear, changing from 1st to 2nd produces a lovely grating sound every time, it is no better when the car is hot, gearbox oil was changed about 3 months ago when I fitted a new Laycock clutch. It was also grating before the new clutch and the old clutch still had lots of life in it, it was just really heavy to use. However changing down from 3rd to 2nd never seems to produce the grating noises. I assume it maybe a synchro issue unless someone has any better ideas. I have heard that replacement rings are hard to come by, It is a CR model with Overdrive. Any sug
  3. Hi all, I’ve recently found an oil leak coming from a hole on the bellhousing and I can’t figure out what it is from the Haynes manual or info online. The hole looks like a bolt hole minus the bolt. However, it looks a bit larger than the others and has a raised ring surrounding it. Also, there is another, smaller, hole close by on the left which isn’t leaking. Does anyone know what the situation is here? Should something be screwed in? I’ve attached a couple of photos. It’s a 1981 car, 5 speed, 2 litre. Any knowledge, suggestions gratefully received. Thanks all,
  4. Hi All, Just purchased a 1971 TR6 - but I am aware that many on here will not appreciated it! It is powered by a BMW M50 2.5 engine with a BMW 5 speed box. I have to say is drives brilliantly and I think the performance suits the car. First job is to work out why the break lights don’t work!
  5. Picked up a 1976 Triumph TR7 in central Iowa on Monday. Being new to the Triumph TR7, I tried to back her off of the trailer and put her in reverse and started to let off the clutch. She then made a loud pop and decided to try again maybe holding the gear shifter in thinking she popped out of the gear. Same instance happened, she popped real loud. I decided to put the car in neutral and push her off. 1st gear works as do the others no problem. What could cause that sound of an issue? also a rough idle. She’ll go between 500-1500 Rpms and almost die then jump back up to 1000
  6. I am in the processof removing the engine from my TR3a to deal with a significant leak from rear of the engine. (exact cause yet to be determined). I have noticed that I have a number of small leaks from the gearbox, nothing major but it probably makes sense to deal with them while the engine & box are out of the car. The first is the rear seal that was only replaced last year and is already leaking again - is there a better part out there and how easy is it to remove the rear flange and remove it? The second is from the selector forks - again nothing major but is there a fi
  7. Has anyone attempted to "dismantle" an original gear lever with the rubber "metalastic " bush within the main body of the assembly? I have a lever which I intended to repair the machined groove, in the spherical part of the lever with some weld and then re machine. The problem was how to prevent damage to the rubber vibration damper inside the assembly.On looking at the lever, more closely, it is quite an interesting item. The main lever arm is joined , (how I have not yet sussed) to the inner part of a metalastic bush. the outer of this bush is then pressed into the main body of th
  8. Hi all, I have a question about my gearbox from my TR4 (1962). Does anyone know why my gearbox is harder to switch in hot weather? It's harder to get into gear. Sometimes from three to four a little crack. Not Always. Just that it's not completely synced. In the spring I never had this before. And only if he's been riding hot. The next day everything is back to normal
  9. Hi Guy’s I really can’t fathom this one out. And I’ve have had a classic gearbox specialist have a look and no joy. My reverse lights are on all of the time. So I’ve gone back to basics. Not the switch(es), tried 3. Then bench checked them, they all work, spot on. Then checked the wiring is ok. Rev lights work fine when switch connected up but out of GBox and operated by hand. So thought I would try the switch screwed in varying amounts. With the GBox in reverse I’ve screwed the switch in until it just turns the lights on then took it out of reverse. Lights stay on. Then st
  10. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  11. Hi Folks, for those wanting to know where the reversing light switch is here is a pic. Roger
  12. My local group leader has had a major gearbox failure, it's with a repairer and will cost a good amount to repair due to the amount of parts damaged/required. As he's already got to spend a substantial amount he's wondering if it's worth spending a bit more to do the Mazda 5 speed conversion, I'm hoping to get some experience from members here that I can pass on to him and help him decide which way to go: repair/conversion. Many thanks Gareth
  13. Well - with your help, the gearbox is out and is almost completely stripped down. Already I am somewhat more philosophical about the demise of 1st gear, as it has prompted me to delve into a gearbox for the first time and actually start to learn how the bloody things work... which has led to a few questions... 1. I can't figure out the function of the 'extra' little ball bearing and associated plunger in the 2nd gear synchro hub... it is described in the exploded diagram as being an interlock... my question is, interlocking what, exactly? I think that the 3 springs and ball bearings
  14. Hi guys Following on from recent chat about gearbox removal... once the box is removed, is it ok to just support the engine using a block of wood between the engine and fire wall (see photo)? I would like to be able to move the car about the garage once the box is removed. I hope that the support under the engine is only really required while there is a chance of the gearbox applying additional load onto the engine (which can happen I presume despite best efforts to support box and engine separately). TIA!
  15. Hello experts! My speedo stopped working last season... The speedo end of the cable was spinning alright but could be stopped by pinching with fingers and so I was looking towards the angle drive (thanks to archive forum post from RogerH). Anyway, I removed the one-piece tunnel today and discovered that the gearbox-facing bayonet fitting on the angle drive was 2 threads/turns loose. All tightened up now and reckon that will be it - any thoughts in advance of my 2 month wait for dry and salt-free roads?? Hopefully I will avoid the need to buy a new smiths angle drive. Also going
  16. EDIT... I originally thought it was a half shaft failure... turns out it is gearbox related. Grinding in 1st gear and reverse with very little drive. 2nd/ 3rd / 4th all ok with or without o/d. Looking for diagnosis while I start the process of removing the box and engine... at least this will give me a chance to fix that oil leak and a few other things. Original post: What a shame - just after thinking how well the car was driving and looking (and also consciously thinking how risky it was to be having such thoughts), a half shaft decided enough was enough... at least I hope it was th
  17. The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throt
  18. Hi All Well this started a number of months ago when my overdrive started dropping out randomly when in 4th OD. I was sure it was an electrical issue as it could work fine for hours of driving. It appeared to be worse when hot and tended to happen when the revs dropped while still in fourth. I checked all the electric and couldn’t fine a problem and as we were about to head off to Spain and France with the car I decided to leave it alone. We covered 2380 miles, 3 Tr6s with no problems, however my overdrive continued misbehaving, a little worse in the hot weather. However we arrived back i
  19. Hi all, This might seem a strange set of questions but I'm trying to understand how to operate overdrive as I've never driven with this before, and I'm hoping to have my car back soon- it really has been the slowest and most stalled of rebuilds ever known!! I know o/d can be used in 3rd and 4th on mine. 1. When should I operate o/d for the first time on a journey - do I have to be at a certain speed and in 4th at first selection? 2. Do I need to deselect o/d before shifting down from 4th to 3rd? 3. Do I need to deselect o/d before shitfting up from 3rd to 4th? 4. When
  20. Morning folks, Just stripped down a nice straight TR4 chassis which has this damage to the gearbox mounts both sides of the chassis rail...is this a common problem, what causes it? Anyone encountered this before?
  21. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  22. Hi All. It's been a good while since I have felt the need to consult the esteemed members of this group, and hope your advice will enable me to reach the correct decision. I have a 1971 TR6 which unfortunately is a non overdrive model. I am considering having an A type overdrive & gearbox fitted, and given the estimated cost of around £2,500 (ish) I am wondering if it's a worthwhile expenditure? I specifically want an A type overdrive, as that's what would have been fitted in 1971, rather than the apparently more 'robust' J type. I suppose my question is with regar
  23. I'm attempting to convert a top-cover from the push-fit plugs holding the detent springs in place(156665), to the screwed type (108166). I have tapped the holes out to 7/16" UNF and have some brass threaded rod to match but I don't have a pattern to hand. Could someone with a collection of gearbox bits let me know how thick/deep the screwed plugs should be? Any advice welcome
  24. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration. I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt? Thanks Mike
  25. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
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