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Found 265 results

  1. Can anyone help me, I'm trying to replace the bent and twisted metal fuel return pipe item 77 (Part No. 217833) on my 1972 CP TR6 that runs from the right angled hose of the top of the tank throught the floor connecting to the return pipe under the car. In the Moss catalogue it shows 2 clips item 86 (059380) that clip the pipe to the boot surround. My car doesn't have these clips, so can anyone tell me where they should go and how the fuel return pipe should be formed around the back of the tank? If anyone has any pictures of this area that would be great. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/fuel-system-induction-controls/tanks-pumps-pipes/fuel-system-tr6-from-c-cp50001.html The reason for changing the pipe is that I tipped the tank back into the boot the other week to change the fuel sender that wasn't working and I have kinked the fuel return pipe so now the car only runs for 30 -50 seconds before it stops because the fuel can't return to the tank. One job always leads to another! Regards Justin
  2. As the first pic shows, the on-line purchased fuel filter is a lot bigger that it looked on the website and is wider than the gap between the solid pipe and the first fuel bowl. First option is just buy a shorter filter and leave the fuel line as is - maybe also cutting the solid pipe back a bit to afford a little more room Second option seems to be to fabricate a mount to sit the filter above the water pump as suggested in the second pic. There doesn't seem to be anywhere obvious to mount the filter? Also, if I do this is is appropriate to replace the fuel line along the block with a flexible hose as per the pic. I assume that it is better to have solid pipe and fewer joins - thus option 1 ?
  3. TRsixchris

    Failed MOT

    I took my TR6 for its first MOT in my ownership. It failed on non parking wipers and non functioning windscreen washers (actually I knew the washers had failed but couldn't do anything about it before the test). I stripped down the windscreen wiper motor and found that the park switch had failed. Luckily I had a spare which I had purchased some time ago. I had also noticed that the wiper sweep seemed a lees than it should be which was explained by the 105 degree drive wheel fitted to the motor. So with a new park switch and a 115 degree drive wheel all was restored in the wiper department. The washers were sorted out with a replacement pump. As I was now on a bit of a roll I decided to tackle the noisy fuel pump. This I suspected was due to a poor feed from the tank so I replaced all the pipes and connections with new items that I had collected for the task. I made sure that all the fittings had the largest bore possible and had to drill a couple out to achieve this. I also fitted a tap so that in future I wouldn't have to drain the tank down to work on the fuel system. Once reassembled the pump ran happily with just its usual hum - no more cavitation. All that was left was to put some in some miles in whilst the sun shone - great weekend and hopefully new MOT tomorrow.
  4. tr6tuga

    fuel filter

    On summer holidays at my grand parents, had the chanse to read Somerset Maugham's collected short stories, and that inspired me to sugest forum managers to to edit a TR6 collected short stories:-) I post a couple of topics concerning erratic engine running at 1500 rpm, pointing to fuel starvation The story began in 2014, and almost every sugestion, advice,clue, experience from the forum was applied, just to name a few, replacement fuel lines, injectors, MU, PRV! lucas pump, head conversion, dizy, contacts, dito, chasing rabbits:-) Yesterday, decided to recheck if there were some fuel leakages/air inlets on the fuel line, and this is what I found...a very small hole on the fuel filter edge. This was responsible for erratic fuel supply, the oring at the bottom unenvenly sealed air intake... The down side, spent a lot of money/time, but the up side, I have a pratical knowledge that can share, and enjoy TR6 ownership Simple things upset great minds:-):-):-)
  5. I have one of these 3 stage POR15 tank clean/prep/seal kits to do at the weekend (assuming I can get the freekin tank out) Any recommendations / warnings from anyone who has been through the process. There is no obvious structural rust, just a general speckling having had the tank emptied since the carbs came out in October, so it seems daft to flush it all through mi new carbs ps what the little hole for that I can see ?
  6. Hi All I'm renewing the pipe runs along the chassis, have sorted the brake line and now pondering about the fuel line. Any thoughts/advice as to what to use for the fuel line i.e copper or hose and what diameter? The existing is 'rubber' hose that would presumably have replaced the original steel pipe. If hose, what is the proper method of attaching to the chassis member. Thanks Dave
  7. Other than the gentle eddy created by the bowl in the fuel pump and the carb float chambers, Old Sooty (nee Smokey) appears to have no filter in the fuel system. In-line filters appear to be cheap and easy to install, with disposable metal ones or clear plastic with replaceable filters - both for 6mm line. In anticipation of re-installing shiny refurbished carbs in a month or two, are these recommended / necessary. I assume they should be between tank and pump, or can I get away with one in the (to be renewed) rubber tube just before the carbs ? I also took the opportunity to empty the fuel tank to inspect its condition. Its seems to be OK, but I have ordered a cheap USB inspection camera to double check. Whilst the fuel is out, it is obviously at risk of some rust (the cap having been left open to vent and dehumidifier humming away). Without filling it for the sake of it, is there a recommended way to ensure the tank is clean before re-connecting the carbs and refilling etc. I have seen various references to slush clean and sealing products. Is this the only option? I was sort of hoping not to take it out? My drain plug works, so wondered if there was a system that would allow me to spray inside in site and drain through the plug????? Thanks as always
  8. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
  9. Newbie Q I've just bought my first TR6 from TR GB. It's an original uk car 150 Bhp. I hadn't noticed it previously when I viewed and drove the car, but driving back to Oxfordshire yesterday. I noticed quite a strong smell of fuel. There is a more faint smell in the boot and the smell is strongest just after start but is there throughout the speed and throttle position range. Could it be a leaky tank or other fault - I'm sure there are plenty. Secondly, can anyone recommend a TR specialist in the Oxfordshire (Witney) area who could give the car an initial full service and set up the PI/tune up? Many thanks Ross
  10. tr6tuga

    fuel starving

    Knowledgeable forum! My quest for finding the erratic picking up is driving me nuts! It's a 1971 PI Electrics all check no voltage drops all across battery and fuel pump Dizy, leads, spark, timming check New valves set, head gasket, valve clearance rest Compression test less than 5% variation Fuel line, all check, clean tank, new / refurbish lucas pump, PRV, MU, injectors, fuel hoses Fuel pressure at PRV and MU 110 psi constant. After a looong time bleding the lines finally got the six injectors cone spraying. Engine starts a firts runs unenven, them as soon hits the trotle it starves. After several attemps it sudendly runs perfectly all across the rpm range. Well, thought that found the balance after a full work day, whent for a beer:-) next day, all back to the same fuel starvation Previously trotle was balanced, manifold depression 7-8 hg Somehow the manifold depression is dwingling and the MU has wrong readings? Im missing something? It looks as soon the buterflyes open there is'nt enough depression and the MU shuts fuel supply? My vacuum tester needle goes from steady 7-8 hg to erratic when trottle Please some hints were to look Jose
  11. Hello good people. I have original Lucas fuel pump in reasonable condition. I have recently started to use 98 octane, mainly for better cold starts (it will fire up on first attempt, rather than 4th or 5th attempt on lower octane). Since using 98, I have noticed a wine/buzz (louder than normal) from the fuel pump, especially on a fresh tank. I also have a submerged fuel additive canister for unleaded fuel. Is there any additional chemicals in higher octane fuel that may upset the Lucas pump? My next tank full will be a lower octane to see if the pump quietens down. Or is it a sign to change over to a Bosch system??
  12. Hi All. Does any body use an octane booster if they can't find VPower etc. I used to used a lead replacement before the engine rebuild and had a look at Octane booster but at £12 a pot for 20lts ie nearly £20 a tank put me off a bit. Cheers Mark
  13. Everything was working fine until I noticed that I had a leak coming from the diaphragm but fortunately I had a repair kit and fitted a new diaphragm, it was a bit of a fiddle as I had to enlarge the two slots at the bottom of the shaft to match the old one before I could get it to engage. Its all back together and not leaking however it is not pumping any fuel, there is a good flow from the tank into the glass bowl but nothing comes out at the carb end. I would be grateful for any suggestions what may have gone wrong or what tests I should carry out. Chris
  14. Just got new shiny throttle bodies for the 6. And solid under slung linkages. I've done a bit of adjusting the old ones to balance airflows but have only very limited exposure to adjusting the cold start cam and setting them up. Having said that I've read the manual and feel I can manage installing and getting a basics setup for the new system. But any experience, tips, help or advice would be appreciated befor I do this next weekend Graze
  15. So.. Changed the Coil - new go faster lucas one Changed the leads - go very faster Magnecor ones Cleaned out the floats (only the one for 3/4 had a bit a sediment - 1/2 was clear) foat height slightly lower on 1/2 but very similar No sediment in fuel pump bowl (didn't get as far as pump filter) Checked manifold and carbs golted so no air leaks there Cleaned float and chamber - nowt rough - needles (BDL) and dampers straight Set jets to 9 flats down (midway between the two suggestions of 6 and 12) Re-assembled dashpots - with new red springs (much longer than irregular old ones - see pic) - they dropped OK without and then with damper oil Balanced carbs with tickover at circa 850 set both throttles so that they moved together (probable source of previous report of slower 1/2 - it was engaging later) Didn't bother with choke for now as pulling the choke seem to do nowt to revs with air filters still off ?.... Adjusted mixture using Gunson On 1/2 - having set a start point of -9 flats down - it was rich, so turned anticlockwise until it started to turn blue - however, this took all available 15 turns, i.e., the jet is as high as it can possibly be ! Surely this is not right? On 3/4 I had to raise by at least 10 flats to get it to turn blueish Pics below are first 1/2 - up to top, second 2/4 not far off Can I run the car with he jets this high or will the piston start to bash them. Should I have checked the mixture with the air filter on? Is this why they are showing so lean? (they were soaking in petrol at the time) Is it a case of re-setting the jets with the air filters on and doing the Gunson again, or do I have ridiculously high jets ? Jet for 3/4 (rear) this high (to very top) to turn Gunson blue Jet nearly as high on 1/2 (about 3or 4 flats from top) Old irregular springs (middle) new much longer springs outer
  16. TR6SAF

    Metering unit

    Hi everyone, I have a problem with my metering unit leaking petrol from the control end of the metering unit, which I beleive is due to the failure of the seal between the metering unit and the control unit. I have removed the unit and removed the seal, but I cannot see any split, but intend to change it anyway. When I removed the diaphragm I noticed that the small section of seal that locates on the adjustable shuttle stop was not fixed to the rest of the centre of the diaphragm, is it supposed to be fixed or glued to the centre? if so what type of glue should be used? I cannot find any reference to this small item being a seperate fitting, but I am struggling to find a detailed drawing. Your help would be much appreciated.
  17. Hello guys, I'm new to this thing called TR6 ownership so please forgive my 'wet behind the ears' approach. I'm a Brit living in the Middle East and imported a 1976, US-spec TR6 a few months ago, with the idea that I'd use it during the winter months while keeping it in storage during the insane summer temperatures. When I was a kid in 1980, my dad ran one for a year or so, which is when I was bitten by the bug. It's only now I've been able to scratch that itch. My car was built in the last month of production and was treated to a body-off restoration a few years ago, since when it has been in storage. To get it ready for regular use, I've had some work carried out, during which it was discovered that one of the Stromberg carbs is actually cracked and leaking fuel, albeit only slightly, and they are both desperate for an overhaul. After fruitless searches for a company (anywhere) that can help, I've decided to replace both carbs for new items but I have been unable to locate the serial numbers for either, so that Burlen can supply me with newly manufactured SU items. I'm not too fussed about originality, more interested in reliability, so it seems the sensible thing to do. So my two questions to you are thus: 1. Where might I find the serial numbers on the bodies of the existing Strombergs (the identity tags have long since disappeared)? 2. If Burlen's man is right and the replacement would be SU model FZX 3054, what air filters would work best and where might I find them? Any help would be massively appreciated – this car is stunning in every respect and I'm itching to get out there in it, to embarrass all the supercar owners and remind myself and others what a true British sports car is all about. It turns heads here more than any Italian exotica and I'm proud to own such a beauty. And the pesky carb issue, once properly sorted, should be the final hurdle. Sorry for waffling on, and thanks in advance for any assistance. Kevin
  18. Evening everyone I'm looking to buy a fuel tank for my TR6 that would allow a 7" spare wheel to be kept in the boot. I know that Racetorations do a tank that they say accommodates a 7" spare (it looks like it has a recess at the bottom), but it is a bit more expensive than other tanks on the market and I'm keen to know what other options are before I buy. Would I have trouble fitting a 7" spare in if I just went for a standard capacity tank? Does any one else sell a tank like the Racetorations one? Grateful for your collective wisdom!! Rob
  19. What do you reckon the expected life of a Facet fuel pump should be? I've just replaced one on TS18418. It was first installed in October 1990 and has had a hard life rallying first in the engine bay and then relocated to the boot where it didn't suffer from cavitation/vapour lock. Incidentally the price has nearly doubled in the intervening years!
  20. Hi All, Am in the (slow) process of complete restoration and have got to the point of wanting to start the engine. Have read a few posts about bleeding injectors etc but have a issue I hope somebody can help with. Powered the bosch pump, span engine (for a fair time) with no plugs but nothing at the injectors. DIsconnected the fuel pipe at the injectors, still no fuel. Disconnected an injector pipe on the metering unit, there was fuel there but it was just a dribble. Should fuel squirt out of the MU with the pipe removed or is it supposed to be just a dribble. Any thoughts on what needs to be done. MU, PRV and Injectors refurbished by Neil. Many Thanks Dave
  21. cj79


    I realise by posting this I will never be allowed back into this forum but here goes... I have NEVER done this before, but there is a first time for everything.. basically I was very distracted due to 3 or 4 things that happened yesterday, coupled with the lock on my fuel cap jamming for about 5 minutes when I was late for a wedding (as best man), got the lock open, turned around and thought to myself 'i'm driving the TR, so get the hi octane stuff' - my regular driver is a diesel.... you can see where i'm going with this.. Anyway I put about 5 litres in before I realised what I was doing.. it was almost empty and given the situation I had no choice but to fill the remained with unleaded and hope it diluted the diesel enough. A 7 mile smokey (gentle) journey to the wedding and back to the garage I drained the whole lot out and filled up full of unleaded.. I've done about 5 miles since and it's not quite right. First thing i'm going to look at is the sparks, then fuel filter, both easy to replace. Then I guess if it hasn't improved have the (2 week old) metering unit checked out, is there anything else anyone can suggest? without laughing? Many thanks, Chris
  22. Hi All. As the title says, I'm in the process of fitting a fuel pressure gauge in the Cab and need to screw in the adaptor just before the Metering unit. What should I use on the thread, will PTFE be any good ? TA Mark
  23. Help please. I took my 71 TR6 off the road 10 years ago untouched in the meantime, and am now trying to get it up and running again. It has an original PI system but with a KMI MU. Before attempting an engine start I removed the MU and confirmed manual turnover was possible. MU seemed ok and could be spun with no resistance. MU has been replaced and new fuel tank fitted. Engine turns over ok but no fuel getting to injectors, pump sounds like it is functioning ok. Do I keep turning over in case it simply needs time to purge or how can I confirm where fuel is getting "blocked". Obviously nervous about fuel under pressure Thanks in anticipation. Mike
  24. Been trying to figure this out for awhile and with a couple of random questions before but I thought I'd crowd source some opinions... I'm barely competent mechanically (read interested and could figure it out but life skills lie outside of engineering & mechanics so unfortunately garage ends up doing a lot of the work on my beastie until I retire & can do a decent mechanics course) I have a '74 CR PI car which has an irritating habit of misfiring under what appears to be 2 distinct situations: Firstly if it hasn't been run for a week or 2 it'll run on 5 cylinders briefly and then after a block or 2 is ok. I assume that's a bit of leak back from one of the injector lines. I can live with this ok. Secondly (and more irritatingly) if I have run the car for any appreciable time in even mild traffic (ie not running around open roads (some would say basically not running in its natural environment...) it starts misfiring and running like a bit of a pig. Pulling the plus shows 1-4 have a nice grey apprearance but 5 & 6 are sooty & cleaning them up brings the 6 back to a smooth state. On the other hand, if I'm sailing along remote roads and revving freely the engine seems as happy as a pig in mud. Setup: Bosch fuel pump -draws a bit heavily on the amps but seems otherwise ok. Fatter wire & relay to boot. K&N filter mounted directly onto the end of the plenum & the rad shroud removed. Assume that in v heavy traffic I would see warmer air to 5&6-hence richer but would it really make that much difference??. I could revert to stock if needed once I dig out the pipe from the original box to the plenum. MU hasn't been played with for 15-20years I understand Nylon pipes from MU to injectors (haven't pulled the injectors to check spray) New pertronix & a slight improvement following it's installation but no cure. Points much the same/worse. HT lead resistance ok. Guys at (Triumph savvy) garage say spark is ok, fuel line pressure ok. IIRC the PRV was deemed ok. I pulled the plenum off & the butterflies appear (to untrained eye) to open symmetrically. Always run 98 octane which is the richest available locally downunder. (I think that's everything...) Any thoughts gentlemen (& assume the occasional lady despite what James May says)? Garage suggested injectors but if both 5&6 I'm wondering if its an issue in the common whatever-the-thing-that-looks-like-a-twin-choke-carb-but-isn't. Otherwise I'm wondering what else we could be looking at (short of a recon MU). Or: is this just normal TR6 activity & I'm just expecting too much (although my old Hillmans & Austins of student years ran more reliably...) Help! (and thanks in advance) Matt the kiwi (PS: please don't refer me to shops/people on the other side of my world!)
  25. Hi. In my quest to fit a fuel pressure gauge in the cab I've got an electronic oil pressure gauge..but I need to connect the sender unit, I have a test point bit can anyone point me in the right direction for connecting the two together ? Images attached......TA again Mark
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