Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fuel'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TR Register Information
    • JOIN THE TR REGISTER
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
    • = CORONAVIRUS UPDATES =
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites

Calendars

  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Cars Owned:

Found 265 results

  1. Back with more engine/ignition/fuel issues – seems never to end J The car fires (not easily) up, but will not idle. Unscrewing/open/lock the air supply from air manifold have no impact. The plugs are getting black/carbonized after very few minutes of running. So I guess running over-rich. I have not measured any vacuum anywhere. I’ve measured the balance of the butterflies, they are closing fine and produce fairly equal readings. 1. Since the MU is rebuild by Prestige injection, I assume the settings are right. I’m reluctant to adjust the mix on the MU. But I will if I have to. 2. Could the fuel filter on/at the Bosch pump be causing such problem, if it has gone bad. It’s not that old, though. 3. The PRV is new as well – if it allows for too much pressure (not measured) will it give an over-rich mixture? I haven’t really thought that question through, so apologies if stupid. 4. Ignition timing seems to be ok – started at 12 dgr static BTDC. Could be air leaks on the vacuum hoses. They are all new. Any suggestions? Engine: ’71 2.5PI w/sprint90 cam Ign: Flametrower, pro rebuild dizzy Fuel: Pro rebuild MU, all new injectors, good spray, Bosch pump
  2. Hi everyone - I recently posted whats below on both the TR6 and TR4/4A forum - I have had some good interest but still have a few tanks spare, so if anyone is interested and didn't see this before, please PM me. They are brand new, not used and come with a full Alicool warranty and represent a good saving off normal price,so grab yourself a bargain - when they're gone, they're gone! Cheers Rich Previous post: "Hi everyone - I've just posted as below on the TR6 Forum but in case any 4/4A forumites are interested, am posting here as well. I know there are a couple of posts doing the rounds re repro alloy tanks and wheel size fitment , particularly in the TR6. Rich (rvwp) acquired one from Alicool which had to be modified so as to allow wider tyres to fit, and I understand they did a sterling service in modifying and turning around his tank. I needed a few tanks for all my projects,and ended up buying a small batch from Alicool to get a good price and hence will have a few surplus to my requirements which I am happy to make available to members at a good discount. If you want the sloping rear bottom for wider tyres, this can be accommodated, but I need to know pronto. These tanks will also fit TR4/4A and 5 PM me if you are interested and I'll provide full details Cheers Rich"
  3. Gismo

    Pump Puzzle

    Hello, this is my first post on the forum , sorry it is so long. I have a misfire which I think is fuel pressure related and I can't sort it. My car is a 72 CP which developed a misfire about 6 months ago. I realised the pump note was fluctuating and the current draw through the ammeter similarly fluctuated (pump fed via relay directly off the battery positive terminal). I thought it could be fuel starvation to the pump and I checked the pre pump filter before removing and cleaning out the petrol tank. When all back together, no change. I contacted Malcolm at Prestige who supplied the pump kit (with bigger tank outlet, pre / post filters) and diaphragm PRV. Malcolm was helpful, said it sounds like a bad earth and suggested I try running the pump directly off a spare battery lashed up in the boot. Misfire gone! I found no wiring fault so I tried 2 long cables directly from the car battery terminals to the pump, misfire still there. Swopped the battery in the engine bay with my spare, no change, tried a temporary engine earth with a jump lead to bypass the engine earth braid, misfire still there. A mechanic I know asked if had tried pulling the small wire off the back of the alternator, worth a go I thought and misfire gone! I'll get a new alternator. Misfire is still there with new alternator. I ran the pump directly off the spare battery again to check I am not going mad and it pulls great, run the pump off the car's system with the new alternator connected, pump speed varies (like a wasp caught in a bottle) and it misfires under load. I have convinced myself it is fuel starvation because of a fluctuating pump speed / current draw. I have no fuel pressure gauge but the fact the pump provides enough pressure (no misfire, runs fine) without the alternator connected, has absolutely baffled me. Just to add that the car ran fine with the Prestige pump kit / PRV for about 700 miles before this all started. The car has Lumenition ignition, Prestige pump kit, uprated pump wiring with relay and a baffled owner. Has anybody any ideas? Thanks, Colin.
  4. Hi everyone - I've just posted as below on the TR6 Forum but in case any 4/4A forumites are interested, am posting here as well. I know there are a couple of posts doing the rounds re repro alloy tanks and wheel size fitment , particularly in the TR6. Rich (rvwp) acquired one from Alicool which had to be modified so as to allow wider tyres to fit, and I understand they did a sterling service in modifying and turning around his tank. I needed a few tanks for all my projects,and ended up buying a small batch from Alicool to get a good price and hence will have a few surplus to my requirements which I am happy to make available to members at a good discount. If you want the sloping rear bottom for wider tyres, this can be accommodated, but I need to know pronto. These tanks will also fit TR4/4A and 5 PM me if you are interested and I'll provide full details Cheers Rich
  5. Mike C

    Fuel Stabilizer

    I had my metering distributor unit rebuilt by a local expert, about 9 years ago, to suit modern fuel compositions . This week the fuel cam follower diaphragm failed badly with cracking on the flexing surfaces. I'm fairly certain this was due to stale fuel and maybe the lead replacement additive. With the best of intentions I find it difficult these days to put more miles on the car. I'm therefore proposing to add a fuel stabilizer, such as Stabil, to the tank over winter. Has anyone any experience, good or bad with using fuel stabilizer in a PI TR6? Thanks, Mike C
  6. Hi folks, Can anyone suggest a reliable company in the Portsmouth,Southampton area to unlead my cylinder head. Done the usual online and phone book searches but would prefer to use a recommended place. Cheers. Pete.
  7. Hi Folks, I'm trying to sort a frustrating issue with fuel mixture on the CD175s on my 1964 TR4. I checked the plugs the other day and discovered that Nos 1 & 3 look about right on colour, but Nos 2 & 4 are obviously too rich and even wet upon removal. I have renewed the floats and needle valves in the last 6 months and the float levels have been checked by a competent mechanic friend of mine. I am using cool running NGK BP8HS plugs [previous ones were Champion L87YC]. Needles are standard 2A. Would using the L87YCs in Nos 2 & 4 cylinders make any difference? All suggestions gratefully received!! Best wishes Willie
  8. I am fitting a new fuel pump (from the TR Shop). The leaflet shows an insulator with gasket either side. I assume an insulator as for the carbs. My Autobook manual (1969) by Kenneth Ball says to refit "not forgetting the packers".The Haynes manual (1986) says remove pump "with gasket and Packing pieces". Nothing found in Moss catalogue, the Complete Official (USA) manual, Technicalities or this Forum. I don't remember any packing when removing the pump, years ago.I remember seeing a letter in TRaction but can't find it. Is any adjustment or packing/insulation needed? Pat.
  9. Hello all, Took the car out for a quick run this morning just to shake off any cobwebs before her MOT next week. I normally use standard unleaded and car has always run reasonably well but this morning I filled her up with super unleaded and nearly didn't make it home again. Could filling with super have caused severe back firing, with plumes of black smoke with each bang, lack of power, stuttering and dropping off at least one cylinder? It seems to get worse the harder I press the accelerator pedal. Any suggestions greatly appreciated Regards Gary
  10. The winter project is to remove the 2 x H6 SU and send them away to a specialist for rebuilding. Please send me the supplier who has given you a good service. If someone has let you down send me a PM Thanks Richard & H ( sunny and bright in Sussex)
  11. kcsun

    Injectors?

    About a month ago I had a misfire on my car which was one of injectors that had failed, I had a spare injector so fitted that and the car is up and running I was about to send the faulty injector for refurbishing and when I found that they only charge £21 each to refurbish I thought it would be a good idea to have all 6 done at the same time as if one has failed others may not be far behind When I took them all out they are all different??? I suppose odd ones have been changed over the years and I have ended up with a mish-mash of injectors Should they all be the same and if so what is the correct model I should be installing? I have a 1973 CR car the 6 + spare that I have are Lucas 29 73 73125D with a pointy tip Lucas 38 75 73125D with a pointy tip Lucas 40 72 73125A with a pointy tip Lucas 13 73 73125B with a pointy tip Lucas 35 83 73125E with a flat tip Lucas 43 71 73125A with a flat tip All these push in to insulators (5 insulators are round holes and the 6th one has 4 ridges around the hole on the insulator) spare Lucas 47 69 73045A with a pointy tip -- threaded insulator here is a photo of them What should I have???? kc
  12. marki

    In tank pump

    Hi All. Just wondering if anyone has ever thought about fitting a modern in tank pump set up ? Mark.
  13. After a short run today the carbs need some adjustment, The engine starts on the choke and runs well. But as you slow down at traffic lights or a junction the engine dies. I can keep it going by blipping the throttle. After it has stopped it starts immediately on the key and runs well. Something needs cleaning/unblocking. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  14. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  15. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber was looking a tad limp - yup quite loose on touch. Wiggle the chamber and you can feel the retaining bolt head loose on the rear side of the carb. Could this be the cause of non-starting ? Fuel is July old ? Anyway, how the hell do you tighten these float chamber retaining bolts up. It isn't possible to get even a stubby spanner or small socket onto the bolt head as the choke (?) lever that goes under the carb body to the jet assembly is in the way. Where this lever attaches to the jet is a small screw, but you cannot get a driver on the screw head as the float chamber (even when slightly loose) is in the way. Catch 22 ! Anyone dealt with this without taking the carbs apart / off - which I really really really don't want to do. Only got midweek evenings to sort this (and re-attached indicators and spots) get running to check all is running well before Brands - so any advice greatly appreciated.
  16. Hi All. Has anyone got pictures of a CAV filter used as a swirl pot ? Just wondering if it would be the cheep option. Also anyone run pre pump ? I know Harrytr5 does with good results. Just wondering which pump. Cheers Mark.
  17. Can I switch the top covers on the float chambers with each other - I am trying to re-route my fuel line coming from the pump, and would like to put the front float cover on the rear and vice versa - this will allow me to put the fuel feed from the pump on the rear carb. Anybody do this before?
  18. All Last year, Clive Manvers sorted out the fuel system on my 1975, 6. Primarily, he fitted a new PRV, a 150 bhp metering unit and refurbished venturi, with underslung throttle linkage. It all works well and she pulls like a train, but, continues to run rich. I know she needs to be on the rich side, but all 6 plugs are running black. How do I weaken the mixture slightly? The air valve is fully closed Tick over (hot, after a 15 mile run) is 1000 rpm, give or take a needles width) I would be happy if I can get tick over down to 850 rpm
  19. Hi All, I am looking to buy a new 12.5 Gallon Fuel tank for my '55 TR2. I made enquiries with Andy Wiltshire at Axminster but unfortunately Andy has orders to April 2017 and he is then going to cease manufacture of TR2-TR6 fuel tanks. His Email response follows..... "Hello Adrian, Thank you for your email. I am going to have to let you down here I'm afraid. We are unable to get any stock together due to ongoing orders and are booked up until April next year. There is just myself and my wife and we are trying to run our business rather than it running us (working too many hours etc). We have recently taken some difficult decisions with regards to the direction of our business and we have decided that we will no longer be making the TR2 through to TR6 fuel tanks. There is a reasonable amount of work involved with them and without sounding too mercenary, there is very little profit to be made. Our website will be updated this week. Apologies for any inconvenience caused. Regards, Andy Wiltshire Axminster Specialist Panels Ltd. www.andywiltshire.com Does anyone know where I can buy a new and correct tank? All the pictures I see are the slightly different TR3a tank. I also require correct tank straps, anyone got a pair they wish to sell? Kind regards Adrian
  20. First time I've used this so please bear with me if I'm asking something obvious or any other mistake. Recently acquired TR6 PI with K&N air filters. Previously it has run fine but in the hot weather a coupe of weeks ago when the temps. were in the high 20's I had a problem with loss of power after about twenty minutes of driving. It felt to me like fuel starvation. Since owning it I've done all the usual, plugs, points etc and fitted a new fuel pump and filter and everything has been running fine until the hot weather. Engine came up to temperature no problem and remained there although it was very hot under the bonnet when I opened it. Suppose the temp gauge could be sticking and not showing the true engine temp. Has anybody any ideas about the loss of power? Any advice much appreciated John
  21. TR6PI – after a month of no usage, and a lot of fiddling prior to that, I was going to start up my TR6 yesterday. As a routine I checked the oil level. Two things were not ideal – (1) the oil level was higher than 1 month back (At least a 1cm over max level) without any oil being added and (2) it smelled strongly of petrol. So my guess is the oil seals in the PI/distributor pedestal is leaking. There is no visible leak from the pedestal itself, so the O-ring between the pedestal and MU should be ok. Could the fuel-in-oil sump problem be a result of other leaks? Dripping injector pipes shouldn’t be the cause of this, right? I was thinking just to replace the oil and the pedestal seals. Would that make sense?
  22. Good afternoon all Fuel pump stopped today, luckily, on my drive. 1st stop; fuse box, no apparent issues 2nd stop; inertia switch . . .looped it out and all is well. Attached, photos of the innerds of the switch. Even to my untutored eye, this isn't right. I've tried gentle rectification, to no avail, so; Does anyone have an inertia switch, in good order, they would be happy to Sell? If I can find one, more aggressive rectification of mine will be undertaken. Tried the interwebnet thingy and fleabay, but, excluding one in Holland for £55.00, nothing coming up.
  23. Dear Forum, I having a question on the PI system of my TR6PI '74 (Bosch pump). The engine has been running great but last week started to misfire. I noted no pulsation on cyl 2 and 5. Cleaning #5 with compressed air and it started spraying/pulsing again. However, #2 does not seem to get any fuel from the metering unit. Question: with the injector disconnected, should some fuel eventually flow out of the (nylon) feed-line from the MU with the engine running (on the remaining 5 cylinders ...)? Several other posts suggest replacing the banjo-bolts on the MU for cylinders 2 and 5. I believe the non-return valve is part of the banjo bolt. Correct? Could the no-fuel problem be due to defective non-return valve?
  24. Has anyone fitted a Prestige overhead throttle linkage and can offer some photos/description of how you attached the choke cable and parts required? In anticipation, Richard.
  25. Hello all. My fuel sensor/level indicator occasionally goes off the rails, then comes good of it's own accord. However, over the last couple of weeks it is consistently under reading by 1/4 of a tank, ie full to the brim shows 3/4 full and indicated 1/4 full there is 1/2 tank left. Is this fixable? I've cleaned the contacts at the top of the tank (external) and no change. Any suggestions would be good. This happened after I over filled the tank a couple of weeks ago and fuel spilled out over the turtle deck, the auto cut off on the nozzle didn't work.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.