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Found 265 results

  1. Bought rebuild kit from Moss, but no instruction. Specifically - how to extract the two old valves and replace with the new ones. My existing valve inserts are retained in their respective bores by a "staking" process and the method of removal of the displaced metal that retains the valves is not obvious to me. I realize the description will appear very inadequate to those who have not opened their pump, but hopefully those in the know - will know! Any advice welcome. Thanks Norman
  2. Being a 2,4,6 driver I don't venture into the interim model Forum so forgive me if this is of no interest. Clearing out some old papers I found a Lucas workshop sheet "TR5 Petrol Injection Equipment ". It's aimed at the export marketDoes everyone have these? Dates from 1968. More interesting is the typed memo behind - "Installation and Calibration - Racing Cars". JJC
  3. Back in the TR Register after a 17 year absence ! having recently bought a TR4 to rally next season. Can anyone help me with this question ? Many thanks Andrew
  4. cookie

    Metering Unit

    Hi, See link below, metering unit for sale on ebay, item has ended but says they have more. Has anybody had any experience of a unit from here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141106939144?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Thanks Dave
  5. I have been thinking about fitting a locking fuel cap to my TR3A. I'm posting in the general Technical Chat forum as I imagine similar questions and restrictions apply to the whole TR2-6 range (plus derivatives). At first I thought it might be possible to fit some sort of locking cap below the standard TR cap for outward originality, but suspect this is a non-TRivial solution. So, I am wondering if anyone has fitted one of these Aston or Monza locking caps: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=21538&SortOrder=4 Any advice regarding venting, sizes and any modifications to existing tank to cap pipes would be appreciated, as would photos.
  6. Hi I am back in the garage this weekend after a long break to balance my butterflies, I am going to fit new bushes in the throttle linkage and while I am at I am going to replace the flexible fuel pipes front & rear. My question is whilst I am doing the pipes I am going to replace the rubber flexible mounts for the Lucas pump & the PRV and was wondering do the mounts bolt into captive nuts or are they bolted through bodywork. Many Thanks
  7. I have spent many happy hours in my workshop playing with a basket case TR4 - my first venture with the marque and a great way to learn! The chassis is looking OK and the lace body shell is now coming together and ready for final panel fit and painting - so recently I've turned my attention to the engine. I inherited two blocks with crankshafts etc and an ammunition box with most of the other essentials so that with the purchase of a scrap engine in order to gain a high port head and a set of pistons and liners I've put together a reasonable engine - I hope! Turning to engine ancillaries I have renovated everything for little more than the cost of overhaul kits but have now hit a wall with the carbs. The CD175s I have are not in the best condition and will need at least a full overhaul kit and are missing a couple of parts for the linkages - this will set me back around £150 even with Rimmers 15% off deal - and even then I suspect the spindle wear is not all spindle and I may well have to allow for rebushing too! So ... is it worth spending this sort of cash or should I put it towards obtaining and renovating a pair of SUs? As you can tell from the above I am reluctant to throw money at the project as I have no real idea of the overall cost and would prefer to use what I have to build the car and uprate and improve it later - I know that as I start to put it together there will be a myriad of nuts, bolts,washers, brackets and other widgets that I don't yet even know I need! Advice please on the best and most economic way to find SUs - I know that both H6s and HS6s are getting hard to find at reasonable prices - new ones are still available but horribly expensive and even then lack most of the linkages -as do I! Can I use HS6s off other cars - I see that TR7 and Dolly ones are sometimes available at reasonable prices - can they be adapted reasonably well or will that be difficult or impossible? Any advice or help appreciated! Cheers DenW
  8. I have had a persistent fuel leak since I got the TR back. I was sure it was the "O" ring between the metering unit and (let's call it) the pedestal for the distributor (because I didn't know it's correct name) which are bolted together with three bolts. So I replaced the "O" ring yesterday and at first I thought I'd solved it. Then I find it's still leaking from a small hole on the underside of the pedestal, a hole which is obviously meant to be there, but (if my logic is correct) should not have fuel anywhere near it - surely it should stay in the metering unit and be sealed by the "O" ring? So I need help with a diagnosis - what is the fault in the metering unit causing the fuel to leak through? Do I need a complete rebuild by an expert, or is it something a moderately competent home taught mechanic can fix with aid of the manual and some pro advice? All help appreciated Graze
  9. opsmermaid


    For some time now I've had an engine misfire with my TR6 PI with the following results. The two plugs nearest the cabin "soot up" to a near black colour, don't appear to be oily, whilst the other four plugs appear to be ok. When I change the offending two plugs things go OK for about 20 miles before they soot up again and I get an engine misfire at about 3000 to 3500 revs. If I then really reeve the car on any homeward journey the two offending plugs loose some of their blackness but are not the same as the front four. Any suggestions!
  10. Hi, Having purchase replacement 6mm nylon tube from Pirtek, although slightly smaller than the original 1/4 tube, what's the best way to heat up the tube ends to push the pipe onto the Injector /metering unit fittings. Using hotwater or heat gun does not give enough control, so when attempting to press on the fitting the tube colaspes. Any tips appreciate. Thanls Rich
  11. Hi guys - I've renewed the fuel line from my tank to the fuel pump. Having a battle getting the fuel line to seal properly at base of the tank. Any suggestions here? I've considered welding or brazing in the line permanently, just leaving a short stub of pipe from the base of tank that I can attach a fuel hose to. Have replaced the olive on the line, and tightened the nut up tight, but it still leaks. Anyone got any clever ideas? cheers Pete
  12. Have a 73 cr which will only run on tickover after a 15 Mile run. If tried to rev it cuts out. Fuel pressure at steady 100psi but does dip when i try to rev it. Recently had it timed at Local garage to reduce pinking. Have found that advancing the timing using the vernier scale to halfway the car will rev clean though seems to pink. Changing coil makes no difference. Recently replaced all Fuel system with prestige set up. Looking for ideas as best approach, already sick of the car as,darent go anywhere without it breaking down. With this apparent timing issue worried about causing damage to engine. It has lumenition electronic ignition and it appears to have the original distributor and i use valvoline additive Cheers Martin
  13. PaulAA


    I am in shock. My Man Artur has just completed the HS6 transplant and the difference between this morning's wheezy journey to the workshop on the Strombergs and the return home is beyond description. The two refurbished SUs, from Andrew Turner, are magnificent. I appreciate that a thorough refurb of the Strombergs might have resulted in something of a transformation, but not the metamorphosis that the SUs have brought. This is now a beast. The power band is discernibly wider and she starts to pull enthusiastically at barely more than tick-over. She also pulls hard to beyond 4k revs, where she would previously run out at puff at barely more than 3k. At long last, the snap and crackle in gear changes frightens old ladies and makes small children cry, such is the fire-breathing snarl from the back end. One slight oddity is that the heat shields have been mounted sideways - Artur is adamant that they won't clear the float chamber when mounted vertically. Just got to cure the exhaust gas return now... no leaks to be found from the ss exhaust - could the pipe extensions be too long..? I'll think about it when the aspirin has done something to abate the thumping in my head. Paul PS If you can see a slight glow in the east this evening, that'll be the grin I'm currently wearing.
  14. Can anybody give an update on whether to add an additive to high octane fuel (such as Shell V power/BP Ultimate) like Millers EPS or Ethanolmate, as there appears to be nothing recent on the fourum regarding Ethanol/additives. What are people doing in regard to additives with 0 to 5% ethanol? Sorry if I have missed any recent comments. Cheers.
  15. Hi Tr-ers I have just got back from France and Switzerland in my TR3A . While there I noticed 95 was given a sticker E10 where that garage was selling it, as not all were. Now my 3A in Spain runs on 95 all the time, so when I put in 98 to avoid E10 at some garages, the car didn´t like it, it would spit and back fire and idled very lumpily around 400/500 revs. when I put in 95 with only 5% it returned to normal. Also on the run up to France at 70-75MPH I found that the one over-rider nearest the exhaust pipe was turning a straw colour. As soon as I changed to 98 it turned blue like a motorbike exhaust pipe, and has remained so, so the old metal polish will need a bit more elbow grease to bring the chrome up again. Now the interesting thing I found out while at Morges for the Swiss Classic British Car meeting is that one vendor was selling rubber tubing with markings on it stating for use with ethanol, he also had electric S.U. fuel pumps with similar markings. If anybody is interested his details are as follows. (he is English) Martin Kevill Classic Car Services Chemin Bovay 35 1265 La Cure Switzerland info@classiccar-services.com www.classiccar-services.com Phone +41 79 738 75 20 I gave him the address of the register and he said he will contact them as a possible vendor to any club member. Whether he does remains to be seen, but if he does, where would his details be found on the web and on this forum? Dave
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