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  1. Hi Working through my list of minor challenges, locks, fuel sender, SU tuning, Brakes....... But I have noticed a crunch changing up into and down into second (just aquired car). its fine if I pause for a second before engageing or double declutch, so looking for some experienced opinion: IS this "normal" and I shouldnt worry (sorry is this is a stupid question). or is the box on the way out..... If it is the box, for a very basic mecanic is it better to take the car to a TR specialist box in place (connected) to sort, or remove and find a gearbox specialist, and get the
  2. On the theme of infrared temperature measurement... This little item was recently announced at the January 2014 Consumer Electronics Show. A personal IR camera device that attaches to an iPhone 5/5S. I could find a LOT of ways to use one of these at both work and home if it's sensitive enough. No pricing or timing or hard specifications yet for the FLIR ONE™. We've had it –25°C here a week or so ago. I would love to walk around my house with this thing. http://www.flir.com/flirone/explore/
  3. This is coming up from Lidl 16/01/14 and for the price may give a window on the cooling system. http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/SID-18BA967A-34A4A62C/www_lidl_uk/hs.xsl/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=9087&ar=11
  4. Last year, nearly near the end of the season, I noticed that my overdrive wouldn't engage. A nice job for the winter... not so nice for my wallet, perhaps. So, earlier this morning, I took a deep, sharp breath and started to look for the fault... When engaging, I didn't hear anything: not the relay, not the solenoid. In most cases, you can hear the relay click. So, before I started working on the solenoid, I focussed on the relay. Since my car has a Dan Masters wiring loom, replacing a relay is very easy: take the Bosch lego-ish brick out and replace it with a new, off the shelf item. No
  5. My TR6 has been developing an increasingly insistent rattle from somewhere behind my right ear. It was bugging me all round Norway last September, and reached a crescendo free-wheeling down the corrugated ramp off the ferry in Copenhagen. Bodywork - Check. Loose tools rattling in the boot - check. It seemed to be worse when I eased off the pedal. Reluctantly concluded it must be shot UJ's, rattling under no-load. Cleaning the car yesterday after a muddy pub run with London Group on Sunday I discovered that it was the wheel centre TR6 badge coming unscrewed and rattling against the pl
  6. Hi all Just picked up my first TR6 today, after an hour drive home, one significant concern, and one minor question: 1. After 45 mins of driving, I was stuck in traffic and the running got really lumpy, and pogo'd down the road, just about got going, and got better when the traffic freed up, seemed a fuel, carb issue, fiddling with the choke helped until I could get up to speed. any idea's?? 2. Minor niggle, the car is missing the cubby box lock striker, Rimmer Bros etc seem not to have any, any other options out there?? But looking forward to improved weather to enjoy my pu
  7. Paul Anderson, member of this forum has setup a website which includes a comprehensive collection of TR4/A literature (about 100 titles !). All in downloadable .pdf format - FOC of course http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr-pdf-downloads.html
  8. bobrogg

    Heater Valve

    I replaced the heater valve on my car and noticed that the old unit could be taken apart by drilling out the pop rivet and giving the unit 1/4 turn. This is what I found on the inside of that valve. Note the only thing holding the unit together internally is a very small clip, if that fails the unit will stop working and probably leak coolant fluid. Such a small part could cause you a lot of grief
  9. I seem to have a brake problem with my 70 US TR6, I have not driven the car much and the brake pedal was soft and brakes did not seem to work as they they should. Anyway I have bought discs/drums/pads and hoped that this would improve the brakes together with a proper bleeding. Yesterday I replaced one of the rear drums, cleaned everything and lubricated the adjuster, the rear cylinder looked rather new and shiny so I didn't do anything with this. I assembled everything and adjusted so that the drum locked up and backed up so that the wheel was turning freely, the bleeding went fine as
  10. Hi, I haven't been active on the forum for a very long time, a lot of different things to do and a boring car - everything worked - until today! Hurray, finally something to do!!!! A short description - I parked the TR6 after a fairly long drive (1,5h) and got back in after 20 min. I turned the key, the various lights came on, but no starter. This has happened in the past, the spade connector on the starter came loose, so I pushed the connector back on, started the car, everything fine, BUT the indicator light for the generator doesn't go off. The ammeter shows slight loading (with headlamps
  11. Got one of these classic ciggy lighters which save dropping a glowing lighter in your lap. Only slight problem is that the element is burnt out. Any suggestions how repair and what sort of rated wire to use. I was thinking of using the wire from single bar electric fire. Must be similar stuff to that used in a toaster.
  12. I finally sorted out the heater fan motor issue I was having (runs now in both low/high speed). I get a lot of heat out the bottom of the heater when selecting car but very little heat out the defrosters and dash vents when that is selected. I did confirm air flow thru the vents as well as the defrosters but very little heat. The trap door at the bottom works fine when I use the knob and moves to the correct position when selected. The heater box get very warm so I do know there is heat there, just not where I want it. Thanks, Bob
  13. opsmermaid

    Misfire

    For some time now I've had an engine misfire with my TR6 PI with the following results. The two plugs nearest the cabin "soot up" to a near black colour, don't appear to be oily, whilst the other four plugs appear to be ok. When I change the offending two plugs things go OK for about 20 miles before they soot up again and I get an engine misfire at about 3000 to 3500 revs. If I then really reeve the car on any homeward journey the two offending plugs loose some of their blackness but are not the same as the front four. Any suggestions!
  14. I recently made the mistake of stopping my TR6 while still in overdrive and didn't realise until after I had restarted that it was still switched in. I had switched the engine off before restarting and when I realised, after restarting, that it was still engaged I switched out the overdrive. It seemed to switch out OK as I felt the rise in revs, but it now will not engage overdrive. I wondered if anyone else has experienced anything like this and might be able to help.
  15. No doubt there are many more before me that have been wrong footed by this new feature. I have failed to post a few adverts as the BST start new topic does not have a 'TAG' option box, it is visible in other posting areas. At point of choose to 'add post' the miserable thing tell me no tag has been selected and I must select at least one! There's fun...... When attempting to send Wayne a query, the click through in the help page to new tab where contact should be found, is a blank page - no luck with that one either then. Help please. Peter W
  16. Time to sort out my non-operating A type overdrive. Can anybody confirm the size and thread type necessary to connect a suitable pressure gauge so that I can confirm what, if any, pressure I'm getting? If that turns out to be OK, then I can work my way through all the other suspect areas. Thanks GoGuy
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