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  1. Hey all, newbie on the forum here. I've been helping a friend of mine restore a TR6 that hasn't run in years, and I've mostly cleaning parts. We finally went to try and turn it over the other day and the engine cranked no problem, sounded healthy but we weren't getting a spark. Tested the coil for continuity, 1.5 ohms so no problems there. I have some experience with working on cars but I'm no expert so if anyone can shed some light that would be highly appreciated. I suspect there's an issue in the wiring, there are a lot of "Jury Rigged" connections. The car had an aftermarket stereo
  2. Hi all, just wanted to share an issue I've been struggling with for a few months now, that has caused me to question not only my sanity, but my own ability to problem solve. At the back end of last year I was putting my tr4 away for the winter, flushed and replaced the anti freeze, greased up. Took her out for a quick blast to mix the coolant fully before putting her to bed. was a few miles from home and giving it some beans, and she developed a horrendous misfire, managed to struggle home, just. Was going to replace points anyway as I like the reliability of the electronic igniti
  3. We wonder if anyone can help with the following problem. We are recommissioning after a 7year lay up, a TR6 pi and, having replaced the fuel tank and filter, pressure relief valve, installed a Bosch fuel pump and blown through the fuel lines, the car starts but after ten minutes idling, it then stalls. Just prior to the car stalling the fuel pipe from the fuel pump, resonates. Any advice would be welcome! Thanks
  4. Good morning everyone. I think I know what I've done wrong but thought I would post a request for help just to be sure. I have just finished replacing the brake pipes and flexible hoses (front and rear) on my 1973 CR TR6 which has taken a while but looks much improved. I got to bleeding the system yesterday which is where the problems started. As per the manual's instructions to bleed the system I started at the passenger rear wheel cylinder first. I was unable to bleed any fluid through so as I had drained the system I started at the front wheels which both allowed me to bleed fluid thr
  5. A couple of months back I mentioned experiencing a loss of power going over a bump in my TR5 PI - http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/48807-power-loss-over-bumpos/?hl=bumpos However, after that one occasion all seemed fine, so I didn't investigate it further. Yesterday, I decided to go for a nice long run in the chilly weather and all was well freezing my A... off with the top down for the first 10 miles or so, but then coming off a roundabout with the clutch dipped to change gear the engine cut out. I came to a stop and got it started again immediately. My fuel gauge was
  6. Having given Percy a thorough service, I seem to have created a problem for myself. Although it was running well before I began, I now can't get the car to start. It feels like it wants to start but fires then dies. When checking the plugs, I noticed the distributor bracket was loose.....I nudged it as I removed plug 3 and it spun around about 45 degrees! :-( Given this, I am wondering if this is where I should start looking? I've tried to move it back to where I thought it was but I can't be sure. Is there a simple way to get it roughly back to where it should be or am
  7. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Tourmaline-Natural-Rough-Healing-Crystal-tr3-/390921434547?pt=UK_Collectables_RocksFossils_Minerals_EH&hash=item5b04bbb5b3 There appear to be versions available for all types of TR - I guess you just pop in in the engine bay or wherever needed ?
  8. So I was trying to figure out why my gear selector isn't working (Gearbox already out of the car) and have either by some error put myself in this position or found a cause for the problem, at this point I have removed the 1st/2nd gear selector shaft. and loosened the forks for both reverse and 3rd/4th. But what appears to be the case is that the 3rd 4th shaft is "too far in gear" meaning it is past the point in which it would be furthest forward when normally in gear. I cannot get it out of gear or even take the shaft out the top cover. Because of how the interlock system works this means I c
  9. Now if there was just a surry top in there somewhere. Dan P.S. Happy New Year! http://www.staradvertiser.com/news/breaking/20150101_51_years_after_wreck_7inch_car_part_found_in_arm.html?id=287304011
  10. Hi All, I recently purchased a LED bulb to replace the standard bulb used by the indicator flasher within the speedo on the dash, the idea being to have a brighter light that could be easily seen against daylight. Details of the bulbs I purchased can be found here but are 12v E10 MES bulbs. I fitted the bulb and switched the right hand indicator switch and sure enough the LED bulb flashed and was much brighter, job done or so I thought. I then tried switching to left hand indicator but although the indicators themselves work nothing from the LED bulb, checked right hand aga
  11. I have an occasional starting problem when warm with my 1974 CR. Normally when starting warm I start with 1/4 to 1/3 throttle (obviously no choke) and it picks up immediately. On occasion if it doesn't pick up and I going for another start it'll pick up with more throttle and only run at 2500 - 3000 rpm and above and appears to be very rich (black exhaust). If I try to drop the revs it dies (as though there is no spark) This can happen 4 or 5 times and then either it'll start as normal or I have to leave it for 5 or 10 minutes and try again. I have 2 theories as to what's happening:- (1)
  12. Hi All I've had to do some work on the brakes of the daily driver so moved the TR6 out of the garage this morning, it took a good minute or two of cranking to get the engine to fire, then just now when I was trying to move it I can't get it started.. It's a completely rebuilt engine, new points, new compressor, new fuel system including Bosch pump, I can hear the pump running fine and there is a good spray to all 6 injectors. I'm thinking sparks, I've had problems ever since I got it back together last year with sooty spark plugs but these are only a few months old. I guess it's running rich
  13. Car had tbeen running really well ........until a couple of days ago. After a 10 mile trip, parked up while the missus went shopping and no hint of the trouble that was about to happen. Started the car, pulled away then the car started running like a bag of nails. Really lumpy and when I took my foot off the accelerator, the revs dropped down and the engine died. No idle at all. Started the car up again, same problem. Running really rough and lumpy. Managed to get the car home.....just. Amazing how many car drivers you come across on Dartmoor ,who crawl at 10mph ,when you're trying t
  14. Gents I am lead to believe that a primary part of the problem of low speed uneven running on the late PI 6's is a result of changes made to the inlet manifold. 1st is the in-direct butterfly linkage (throttle cable opens 1 & 2, which open 3 & 4, which open 5 & 6); great when new, but when the inevitable wearing takes place in all the linkages, synchronising the the butterflies can be a nightmare 2nd is the moving of the idle circuit closer to the cylinder head. I have to say that I am finding obtaining smooth(ish) running on my 1975 model, is proving to be impossibl
  15. I've just replaced the fuel tank on my TR6 and I can't get the car to start. I have 20 litres of petrol in the new tank. It's definitely because the fuel isn't getting to the engine. The electric fuel pump in the boot gets very warm as I turn the engine over. I've attached an image. Its the lower component of the pump that gets hot. The red thing is a fancy filter. Do you think there is an air lock in the system? If so how can I solve the problem. Or is there another likely cause? Thanks Roy
  16. Hi, Just arrived home from annual meeting of TR club Sweden, really nice event, and I made a total 800 km of driving over the weekend (links to some pics from the event below). To my surprise I made 29 mpg on averring 65 mph on a 125 miles stretch on a 2+1 road. AFR read approx 14,2 most of the time, short lean peaks to 17-18 on accelerating and almost no pinking. BUT, on 3, 3+OD, 4 and 4+OD trying to accelerate through 2000 RPM engine misfires quite bad at exactly 2000 RPM, noting below, noting above. Is it distributor problem, or might I've involuntarily caused this by fiddling with the M
  17. I've recently changed the carbs on my 6 and have noticed a curious increase in tickover speed when stationary and I apply the brakes. Normal tickover is 800rpm rising to 1200rpm, I suspect the servo but not sure what I'm looking for. Otherwise, it goes like I stole it and stops o'k. You're thoughts most appreciated. Cheers, H.
  18. Please excuse my mechanical ignorance! My TR6 (PI) normally idles perfectly at about 5/600 rpm. Out of the blue however the idling speed has shot up to something between 1500/2000 rpm (very embarrassing whilst waiting at traffic lights!) but otherwise continues to run fine. Have checked the throttle linkage and all seems OK. Also the choke cables are securely fixed and haven't slipped. If I use a finger tip to push the excess fuel lever on the metering unit back the engine will revert to a normal idling speed but is this just because doing so makes the mixture richer? When I do push th
  19. I am restoring my TR250 and have installed all the electrics, today I fitted the battery to try things out. when I got to the indicators, strange things happening, the only thing that works is the hazards and then only when the indicator switch is on (right and/or left) but no dash warning light (hazard or indicator) and only with the ignition only, when I remove the hazard flasher from circuit, the indicators work right /left (and the warning light) but won't flash? The only thing that's not yet in circuit is the front indicator lights (as I haven't fitted the grill) but I can't see how this
  20. Driving home Sunday morning in the bad weather, I happened to pass several trs crawling home in the bad weather , The rear lights on all the vehicles were inadequate, esp the 3s I could not see the tail lights until I was almost on top of the vehicles A good upgrade is needed, any ideas, Pink
  21. My clutch peddle was getting more and more play before it started operating the clutch. so I took a look at the master cylinder operating lever where it attaches to the clutch peddle and found what you can see below. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5E2f7j1weUAbFFnWTd2Y1AxZ1k/edit?usp=sharing The pin is very worn and the hole in the master cylinder operating rod is badly elongated. The hole in the clutch pedal lever is also slightly elongated but not as badly as the rod. I replaced the pin and rod which has removed some of the play but there is still significant slack. I guess I
  22. Hello, not strictly technical but I my road tax ran out last week and I had not been sent a reminder, only a stroke of luck that I noticed, not a problem as I can re tax online using the V5 but with the prevalence of ANPR cameras around it could have been embarrassing, I think the DVLC still send the V11 out, they do refer to them on their website, cheers, Andrew
  23. marki

    AND THE NEXT

    Evening all Here we go then... Had a great day today at the Forde Abbey charity show near Chard in Somerset. Unfortunately the car did not like the day out. Started missing pretty much from the off.then got worse on the motorway seems to almost cut out rather then miss. I stopped disconnected the fuel inertia cut off and thought I'd cured it. Not so although gave it a good ranting down the motorway 85/90 all the way ie 30 mins didn't miss a beat until I got off onto an A road and then we started again. I'll start with the usual suspects coil condenser etc. thought I would throw this on
  24. You may recall I had an issue with starting, now fixed - (broken wire behind the starter button). However, I have an ongoing elecamitrickery issue with the horn and drivers side indicator The horn makes a tiny click just the one, but no honkety honk. The driver's side indicator flashes rapidly at the back but no flash at the front ....but the same front bulb works when the side lights are on (I did change the bulbs). Passenger side indicators are fine. The issue started after I had taken the grille off to install the fan and cowl, during which the indicator wires were unplugged.
  25. I took the 6 out this morning. Gorgeous sunny morning - 18 degrees. But I had a discernible problem. Car started first time, very nicely. I let the car warm up before taking her out on the road. But at every next red light, although the car idled nicely, the minute I depressed the accelerator, the engine cut out. Once started (and high revving to get it going) there was a very discernible lag after changing gear and depressing the accelerator. Sometimes this led to the engine misfiring. Not always. I headed out onto the ring road south and the car ran very smoothly up at 100km/h down t
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