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  1. Hi Folks I recently noticed that the dashboard push button style horn didn’t work & that the left indicators stayed on when selected but didn’t flash. The right indicators function correctly. I’ve cleaned all the bulb contacts etc & checked the earths. I then took the car for a spin only to notice everything functioned correctly throughout the 20 minute drive. After parking up in the driveway I sounded the horn once & then it failed to operate again! Can anyone shed any light on the subject; I was wondering if there is a minimum electrical power chargeing requirement
  2. Hi all, just repaired the dynamo regulator (by passed intrnally for alternator) aftrr complete electical failure.Managed to gigger the electrics to get me home and have now repaired the connections with set screws and nuts as the soldering had cracked disconnecting power to the car. Now I have an interesting problem. The temp gauge reads high and the elecric fan wont cut in, unless I earth out the sensor and it works fine. I cant see any obvious reason other than the fan switch in the bottom hose has failed. Or has it. As the fuel tank is full I cant tell if the temp gauge is over readi
  3. Hi, I have a 1973 TR6, with a two speed motor, and a round wiper switch. I have a problem that my wipers are not parking. I have searched the forum and there are a number of similar threads, but they generally end saying connect wire A to terminal number x. Unfortunately, my wiper switch does not seem to have any numbers on it, so I cannot follow the instructions. The wiper switch is round, and it has 6 terminals on it, 4 round the edge, and 2 in the middle. The switch has a raised "tab" at the top to stop it rotating, so looking from the front (ie the knob in front on me) wires
  4. Today when I switched on the ignition the overdrive kicked in even though the gearlever was in neutral! She was OK yesterday. Could this be caused by a defective relay switch? Selecting fourth gear and operating the overdrive toggle switch has no effect. Tom.
  5. Been trying to figure this out for awhile and with a couple of random questions before but I thought I'd crowd source some opinions... I'm barely competent mechanically (read interested and could figure it out but life skills lie outside of engineering & mechanics so unfortunately garage ends up doing a lot of the work on my beastie until I retire & can do a decent mechanics course) I have a '74 CR PI car which has an irritating habit of misfiring under what appears to be 2 distinct situations: Firstly if it hasn't been run for a week or 2 it'll run on 5 cylinders briefly and t
  6. Kevo_6

    Sticky Clutch

    Aaaghhh... I have a sticky clutch. I had my gearbox overhauled last August and fitted a new Moss B&B clutch kit with new carrier (not bronze), release fork pivot pins, new doubled up cross shaft bushes and drilled crosshaft for a roll pin, I fitted the GB with new bolts and firstly with the correct dowel bolts and torqued up. I had a low clutch pedal last year but it worked fine I.e. not sticky, so over the winter, after advise from the forum I welded up the elongated pedal hole, new push rods, pedal bushes, flexible pipe, new slave rubbers & clevis pins. The clutch works beautifully
  7. Hi folks, I have just taken delivery of my TR3 - so be gentle with me as I start asking numpty questions!! On a run earlier this week the temperature gauge was reading 185 or thereabouts, rising a little in traffic. Thermostatic fan cut in and cooling was working. On the return home once switched off she spewed the contents of the expansion bottle on the garage floor. The next run out today the gauge remained firmly up against the stop pin - at the cool end of the scale! The fan did not cut in on the run nor did she vomit when switched off. I began to get suspicious that all was not
  8. Good afternoon all, I have a 1970 CP which has always suffered from running rich and more than just a little smelly, plugs are pretty black and seems to use more fuel idling in the garage than on the open road. It starts easy enough, no misfires or hesitation. In my quest to cure the rich running I have been through the PI system time and time again. Thinking a little left field can anyone enlighten me on the effects of having a CR cam in a CP with an MU set up for 150bhp. It might be possible that at some time before I owned the car a CR cam was fitted. And what is the interna
  9. Graham

    Loud Whining

    I was out for spin in the 6 today and on stopping and then restarting I was hearing a loud whining noise. I immediately turned to the passenger seat but then realised the wife was still indoors. On further investigation it was coming from the rear near side of the car, from the area of the fuel pump ( fitted in the rear wheel arch ) judicious proding and banging of the pump did not resolve the issue, but further investigation found the noise is coming from the PRV, which I note is 'free floating' due to total failure of the rubber mounts. Question is the PRV Bu@@erd or is it a possibilit
  10. Hi all. We are trying to revive a TR4A with twin HS6 carbs. We managed to get the engine to run, but only on 2 cylinders. The carbs were the culprit, and the jets had seized in the (sorry I don't know the actual part name) tube that feeds them to the carb. So we ordered some new jets and have installed them, as well as giving the carbs a thorough cleaning. The problem now is the engine will not start, and we suspect that the fuel either isn't atomising correctly, or being delivered at all. When replacing the jets is it necessary to also replace the needles? They seem to seat alrigh
  11. Hi, I have benefitted a lot from information in this forum and thought it was time I offered some information that others may find useful. I have owned my TR6 for 30 years and so know the car very well, or I thought I did. To cut a very long story short, the engine was rebuilt by a specialist when I was living abroad (car was in the UK) and some time afterwards I started to notice a very occasional momentary fluctuation in oil pressure which seemed to occur when cornering fast and tight, e.g. around a roundabout. It didn't happen in bends or on the straight, or on gentle roundabouts,
  12. Hi all. On my TR4A, I had to replace the clutch, throwout bearing and carrier, cross shaft and pretty much everything inside the bell housing as the previous starter motor blew up and sent all its springs into the housing causing all kind of mess. Since refitting the new stuff I have found a loud grinding noise whenever the clutch is pressed. This happens when the car is both in and out of gear, when even the slightest pressure is put on the clutch pedal. I am trying to think what it is, and I know it can't be worn parts as they are all new so the only answer is that I have installed s
  13. Guest

    Technical Editors

    WTF is going on? we have lost Alec Pringle ( who's knowledge is second to none) and only Tom is blue?
  14. Hello Can anyone recommend a mechanic/garage in the Lausanne/Geneva area of Switzerland? I went to Garage du Levant in Lausanne which was on the TR register list but the guy made my TR6 worse, not to mention putting a massive chip in the (new) paintwork. One of the problems (there are a few) is that 2 of the rule injectors have gone on me again. I've done the usual thing of pulling them out and tapping to get the spray, replaced the rule injectors and it was fine for a year. The metering unit is relatively new so I'm a bit stumped...time for an expert to take a look, hence my request.
  15. 200 mile round trip - Twice, when stationary at lights/low moving traffic - clutch pedal straight to ground with no resistance - could then not change gear - switched off engine and re-started - then OK - had checked fluid reservoir before leaving home and again when challenge occurred - level normal (although looked a sade muddy - continued 90 odd miles mainly motorway/dual carriageway - no repetition of incidents...MANY THANKS FOR ANY IDEAS - BEST, AYE, DICK TUDHOPE.Wyedean Member.
  16. Evening gents, Both my newly fitted track rod end gaiters have sheared resulting in an MOT failure. They have only a couple hundred miles on them. Have I over tightened them? Thanks Steve
  17. Hello one and all. When I acquired my lovely motor, the electric screen washer pump was not functioning. To cut a very long story short, and with the pressure of the car being used next weekend to carry future daughter in law to the church to marry my son, I decided to fit a manual version sourced from SCPARTS. I have to say their service has been dreadful but that is another story. The pump picks up from the reservoir OK but pressure is not maintained in the pipes to the jets. As such I just get a dribble!! So is this a dodgy pump, air getting in the outflow "system" (I have check all the
  18. Took the 6 out for a trip today and when I left home, the fuel and temp gauges were working fine, and then suddenly not. As I've been here before, instantly thought of the voltage stabiliser (again !!) As I got nearer to home, they started working again. Turned off the ignition to open up the garage. Got back in, started her up and no gauge readings again. Dodgy fuse, voltage stabilizer or something more sinister, like a short somewhere ?? If it is the voltage stabilizer, where's the best placed to get a decent quality one ? The current one was only fitted April last year. Steve
  19. Hi, Can anyone please help - I have a fairly significant fuel leak coming from the joint between my metering unit and the dizzy pedestal. Having read a few threads on this, I have changed the o ring seal twice, checked mating surfaces etc but no joy. I know there is another seal (diaphragm) at the other end of the fuel distributor between it and the mixture unit, but as fuel isn't leaking from that end I have assumed it is ok. Can anyone help or suggest further checks before I end up buying a recon unit at some cost. All suggestions most welcome. The sun is out but the car is disabled
  20. TR Register Technical Seminar #2 Triumph TR2 – TR6 Gearboxes with Pete Cox. Saturday 9th May 2015. 10am – 4pm. Places limited to 30. Price: £50 per person. All bookings for this seminar are for TR Register members only. Book online now: http://www.tr-regist...inar-2108-p.asp Agenda Introduction Dismantle & Inspection Parts Requirement Improvements/Upgrades Reassembly/Refitting/Testing Question and Answer Session The seminar will include the removing and refitting, but not the rebuild of the overdrive unit. If you require any specific information particular to a specific model
  21. I’m in the process of installing the components that operate the Scuttle vent lid which were all missing when I recently purchased the car. I now have all the necessary components courtesy of Rimmer Bros but was wondering if anyone could supply a hand drawn diagram showing how the Operating Rod connects up under the dash as item numbers 6 & 7 on the Rimmer Bros page ( http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600312) have me stumped!
  22. Steve P

    Horn Fault

    Evening all, How is the horn connection at the steering wheel earthed? I've checked all the wiring and the operation of the actual horn and all is well. Thanks Steve
  23. Hi All, I've just got my Historic Status so got the car out on the road this last weekend.. I put brand new sparks in before starting this year, the MU was brand new last year and setup by Malcolm Jones, engine is completely restored professionally, all fuel lines (inc tank) are brand new last year. The problem is, I'm replacing the sparks every couple of months (I know I could clean them but they're not expensive and it's easier to put in new ones) .. they are getting heavily sooted up to the point where I can't get the engine to fire, the car pulls well to about 4.5k revs then seems to top
  24. HELLO ALL, I am having a major problem in getting the w/screen frame to fit on a TR5 I am restoring. On fitment of the frame to the bulkhead & fitting new door windows the gap when the windows are wound up is 3/4 inch at the bottom of frame between the glass & there is no gap at the top, in fact the glass is catching the frame. Could it be that the glasses are repros & not shaped correctly. No amount of adjustment of the frame position makes any difference. Any help to resolve this problem would be appreciated. Thanks Peter
  25. TR experts - please help. I have a 1970 PI TR6 that has an electrical snag where the indicators only flash on one side. On the other side the indicators light up but do not blink. I have cross connected the LH and RH ccts just below the steering column and the problem remains the same on the same side. I have checked the city resistance on both sides and both have the same ohm reading. Both sides appear to have good earths. The flasher unit looks as though it was changed with last 5 years - it's a two pin version. It seems to work fine on the unaffected side. Anyone got any clues pleas
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