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  1. I admit that I have been a so called expert hahahaha on the PI system since the age of 9 when my father picked up his new CP TR6 directly at the factory at Coventry in 1970. Sitting in the back of the smelly car accompanied by the whine of the Lucas pump I learnt a lot from the start.o By the age of 15 I was already tinkering, trying to cool pumps and checking injectors. By 21 I was well into vacuum gauges and fuel pressures. So While waiting for some parts to arrive I thought I would open up a metering unit I have swapped out. It was leaking fuel from the datum cover. I have always tun
  2. Chris Hubball, a Group leader with a TR4, has a problem with the Revington Hazard Warning kit which he bought a long time ago and is attempting to fit to his TR4. He has described the problem thus: My car is a TR4 I purchased a Hazard Warning kit from Revington a long time a go but it came with no instructions on querying this I was told their stock had no instructions. so using the workshop manual wiring diagram and your article in TR Action No 132 I am attempting to fit it. My problem is the 6 wires on my unit differ in colour from those in your article, I have a purple wire and a black w
  3. Some advice required from the hive-mind please… Last weekend, I had a trouble-free 130 mile round trip in my ’63 TR4. Arriving home, I parked on my drive and went to fetch the garage keys. When I returned, the car wouldn’t start. The red ignition light dimmed when I turned the key but the only other response I could get was a loud clicking sound. I intend to investigate fully at the weekend but am I right to assume it’s probably starter motor related? If so, I imagine it’s going to be an ‘interesting experience’ removing it because I have an original unit squeezed in tightly next to a
  4. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
  5. My TR3a seems exceptionally susceptible to the effect of old fuel. A month ago I resurrected the car from a couple of months laid up in the garage and it coughed and spluttered until I brimmed the tank with fresh Shell V Power fuel at which point it ran like a dream whilst I drove it 125 miles to its new home. (We were moving house). For the last month it has sat in the garage while the house gets sorted but yesterday I took it out on the road again and it is coughing and spluttering again. If starts OK and idles pretty well and initially when it is still warming up seems good but
  6. Gismo

    Pump Puzzle

    Hello, this is my first post on the forum , sorry it is so long. I have a misfire which I think is fuel pressure related and I can't sort it. My car is a 72 CP which developed a misfire about 6 months ago. I realised the pump note was fluctuating and the current draw through the ammeter similarly fluctuated (pump fed via relay directly off the battery positive terminal). I thought it could be fuel starvation to the pump and I checked the pre pump filter before removing and cleaning out the petrol tank. When all back together, no change. I contacted Malcolm at Prestige who supplied
  7. Well it had to happen sooner or later. I've been hit with an electrical gremlin. A few days ago I was driving home. All my gauges were fine. Suddenly my ammeter went into the negative and stayed there. Up and until then the car has been running fine. Today I replaced the alternator and when turned on, the red lamp was on, but dim. I've cleaned up the battery terminals. Cleaned up the earth connection from battery , to body, to engine. Voltage at battery 11.89 v. Voltage at battery, connected and engine on 12.5v Not good I think !! Just got in the car, started her up, put lights on, h
  8. Hi Folks, Hope you all had a great day yesterday re Drive It Day! Fab weather in the Midlands/North Wales areas. Anyway, during my 270 mile run yesterday, my tacho decided to 'max out' at 2000rpm only, regardless of revs/speed. Nothing to suggest anything different/other gauges all working re electrics etc......, so confused from Derby!! Any thoughts / tacho 'guru's' out there with any advise etc? Many thanks, Chas
  9. Good Afternoon, I have had my original CR series TR6 throttle bodies rebuilt by Prestige Injection Services and re-fitted together with an under-slung Prestige linkage kit. The quality of work is excellent and the assembly has all gone together very well. I have covered approximately 2,000 miles since. I have a problem when the car gets hot (not overheating) that the throttle sticks open and doesn't allow the car to return to idle. When this happens if you push the linkage manually from under the bonnet normal tick-over is resumed. Once the engine cools the throttle return works perfect
  10. Hi Folks, I'm trying to sort a frustrating issue with fuel mixture on the CD175s on my 1964 TR4. I checked the plugs the other day and discovered that Nos 1 & 3 look about right on colour, but Nos 2 & 4 are obviously too rich and even wet upon removal. I have renewed the floats and needle valves in the last 6 months and the float levels have been checked by a competent mechanic friend of mine. I am using cool running NGK BP8HS plugs [previous ones were Champion L87YC]. Needles are standard 2A. Would using the L87YCs in Nos 2 & 4 cylinders make any differen
  11. All My brake lights stopped working this weekend. The fuse is good. Bulbs are good Tail lights work I have checked all the earth (body) connections I can find in the boot and cleaned / vaselined I have the brake light switch out and checked with a test light; it is working However, the switch looks old and feels fragile so I plan to replace it. I plan to buy Lucas or Intermotor, unless the forum suggests otherwise. . . . . suggestions? But . . . where else can I look for a resolution to the 'no brake lights' problem All advice gratefully received
  12. Happy New Year everyone. Throughout the 4 years I have owned my 1964 TR4 it has suffered from "running on" when the ignition is switched off. The car has an electronic 123 distributor. I have replaced the plugs with cool running NGK BP8HS units but still the car runs on. I have resorted to stalling it to prevent this happening! The vacuum pipe rubber connectors were renewed in 2016. I slightly retarded the timing but this merely flattened performance without curing the problem, so timing is back where it was. I believe the engine has a standard cam. Any pointers to curing the pro
  13. All Returned home, just before Christmas, to find that the reason I was getting some strange looks out on the road, was because the indicators were not performing to specification. Problem; N/S indicators working O/S indicators not working Actions to date; - checked the earth (to body) strap in the boot (N/S) - replaced the flasher unit with a Lucas replacement - visually checked as much of the wiring as I can get to - checked each bulb and renewed the front O/S main bulb, which seemed 'flakey' Result; N/S indicators working O/S rear bulb working O/S front bulbs (main
  14. Dear all. I need some help. I just got out the engine and gearbox of a CP chassis TR6 but the gearbox was sitting on a bracket fitted in front of the gearbox mountings. Does this mean that the car is fitted with a J type overdrive or does it have a saloon car overdrive? Photos attached. What I find strange is that there is an overdrive on the 2nd gear as well which to all I know was not offered in a J type. Photos attached. I hope this is not a CP car with a CR chassis
  15. As you will recall, I have been looking (or not) at my dash lights. I still am (not). As a reminder, the lights for the dash, tacho and speedo simultaneously stopped lighting, however, the ammeter fitted with the alternator glows bright. The indicator and ignition lamps also work fine (as does everything else electrical) It is the early 3A push/pull switch. I can see no loose wires. I assumed that rather than all 6 bulbs blowing together, it might be the switch (2H4841), but as the ammeter comes on via the panel light switch, I assumed that it must still work ? Is this
  16. Hi all, I'm looking for a book that would take me through the basics and to some extent more advanced procedures of engine tuning. The nearest I can find is from the Speedpro series called 'How to build & power tune distributor ignition systems'? Ideally it would take me back to the basics of the 4 stroke cycle and lead me through the finer points of tuning. Not quite 'an idiots guide' if you get my drift. I already have the 'How to improve TR6' by Roger Williams and 'How to restore TR6' by Roger Williams. Any suggestions would be very useful. Thanks Jim
  17. Before this goes onto Ebay, first dibs for members. Sorry it's not in the classifieds but I'm not allowed to post it in there. Bought this off Conrad some years ago, so it's got a pedigree ;-) £50 inc postage in the UK.
  18. Hi All Not sure this is a marque specific technical query, so apologies if in the wrong forum. A few of you have been very helpful over the past couple of months answering various questions (overdrive, electrical etc) so thanks for that. The jobs I have undertaken have taken me on a tour of the wiring harness, which appears to be in good condition and original. One of the objectives was to strip out of the car some horrible wiring additions and modifications for various accessories that have been incorporated over the years and to recover the wiring 'properly' - or as best I can as an
  19. Bear with me.... Took Olde Very Smokey for a run today - apart from the MoT - first time since end of July Started first time, ran well, good steady oil pressure and temps all the way, with a run down the A21 in slowish traffic, one junction round the M25 at circa 70mph to blow off the cobwebs, pulled strongly for overtaking - and then headed back up the A20 (traffic again) - total circa 1 hour. About 2 miles from home whilst sitting in a queue I spotted the crank case breather breathing steamyish. Had a minor panic thinking that I hadn't checked the water before leaving, but w
  20. After a short run today the carbs need some adjustment, The engine starts on the choke and runs well. But as you slow down at traffic lights or a junction the engine dies. I can keep it going by blipping the throttle. After it has stopped it starts immediately on the key and runs well. Something needs cleaning/unblocking. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  21. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  22. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Che
  23. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber wa
  24. Went out for a drive last night and everything was fine until I noticed that the oil pressure had dropped to zero so pulled off as soon as I could and checked the engine and couldn't find any sign of oil loss so got a recovery truck to ferry the car home. Until now I always enjoyed a healthy oil pressure and have never experienced any oil related problems so now I will need to track down the problem and would be grateful of any advice on the checks and process I should go through Thanks Chris
  25. Steve P

    Shunting

    Good evening, The car is experiencing shunting to a point where it is almost un-driveable in urban areas. On the motorway its fine. While under acceleration it is fine. But get under 40mph in any gear 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st when coasting or coming off the gas shunting occurs at every opportunity. Now I have been on a long term investigation into this matter. I had a rear wheel bearing gone, a whining diff and input bearing on the gearbox was shot. So I've fitted new rear drive shafts, the gearbox has been rebuilt, overdrive overhauled and diff has been rebuilt. The diff mountings are solid an
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