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Cars Owned:

  1. Hi folks, Can anyone suggest a reliable company in the Portsmouth,Southampton area to unlead my cylinder head. Done the usual online and phone book searches but would prefer to use a recommended place. Cheers. Pete.
  2. TonyC

    Starter ring.

    Take nowt for granted. So problem is high torque starter doesn't always engage and getting more frequent. Removed starter motor, yes interior out, tunnel cover out etc etc. Pinion on motor looks not to bad, but there is marking on the ring gear teeth, but all in all it looks serviceable. Dismantled starter and all looks as it should. Witness of teeth engagement on pinion shows two thirds as it should be. Rebuild and test 1. Check that solenoid throws out the pinion. Measure distance from front of engine plate to ring gear - 28.9mm. Engagement depth confirmed ok. Test 2:- check that s
  3. Hi all, This is a TR4 Clutch conundrum My problem and question is about a mix of TR4 and TR4A parts. Some history: I purchased FML604B, a TR4 1964 UK 2 owner car in Summer 2014, complete with late 1980's set of heritage body panels. Most outside panels are still in original patina Conifer Green, wire wheels and overdrive, I have the heritage certificate to confirm the build. I have spent the last year building up the body tub from basically a front bulkhead and a rear deck. This has gone smoothly, brilliant panel fits, chassis was rock solid with no bends or welds so used as a good jig
  4. Hi All Has anybody got a set of main bearing caps for a TR4 engine. I acquired an incomplete engine in bits years ago including a good block, but I don't have any main bearing caps to go with it - given the number of blocks which have got trashed over the years, I imagine there must be a lot of lonely main bearing caps lying in dusty sheds/garages and they are not the sort of things which typically wear - can't justify spending a fortune but thought I would ask! If you have the bolts to go with them, even better. I know I will have to get any new caps line bored with the block but I un
  5. Hi I have had a chance to view the 2 engines that came with my recently purchased TR6. The prefixes are: MM and MK These are obviously not TR6 engines and I believe the MM is from a 2.5 saloon but what is the other one from. Also what is the difference from TR6 engine (bhp, slower acceleration etc). Can they be adapted to TR spec. Regards Brian
  6. Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
  7. hi my friendly engine builders, finally stript the engine, biggest problem was the 4 inner head bolts, after trying different methods j resulted in taking the pots out, welding nuts on the stud and playing heat on the thread, using a 1 metre bar they finally gave in, I did try soaking them in paraffin but the threads were dry in fact nothing seem to enter the stud hole, I can understand why people run into trouble, if the stud is soft, you have had it. I had already made my mind up if it snapped i would have gone to a machine shop to have it removed the stud is just to long to us
  8. Gents, After a little advise re: oil pump I have what looks like the original oil pump that has a square takeup rather than the mesh bulb at the end. Its marked Houbourn Eaton HE10148 (like this one from eBay) Im reluctant to replace as its well within tolerance, and before taking it apart it always had good oil pressure plus the original stuff seems to last better than the new remade units. The issue I face is that it doesnt have a mesh filter. Should i simply make a simple filter out of stainless steel mesh and move on? Should it even have a mesh filter as the one a
  9. There have been suggestions in the past about using Jaguar EBC 4871 valve springs as a replacement for Triumph on a TR 6. I bought a set some time ago and intend to try them on my 72 (single valve spring) TR6 using a spare head that I have just had work done on. The Jag valve springs seem a little longer than the ones fitted originally to the head. However I have no idea if the springs that came with the head were correct. Does anyone have experience of using the Jag springs for a road car? What should the correct height of a single spring for 72 configuration be? I have been thinking th
  10. Does anyone know the size and thread of the bolt (screw if that is the correct technical term?) that is fitted through the adjusting sliding link and is screwed into the dynamo front end bracket? I'm fitting an original spec C39PV2 dynamo to the TR2 to replace a later type dynamo. The bolt on this later type is a different size so won't fit the threaded end bracket of the C39PV2. Also, should the bolt have a locking nut fitted to the end that protrudes through the dynamo end bracket? Finally - do you know where I can obtain the required bolt (and nut)? I'm not clear looking at the
  11. Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing th
  12. Hi team..... can someone let me know the thread spec/size for the metering unit vacuum takeoff for CP manifolds? Im experimenting with electronic idle control..... and need a second vacuum takeoff. :-) Steve
  13. Happy New Year everyone. Throughout the 4 years I have owned my 1964 TR4 it has suffered from "running on" when the ignition is switched off. The car has an electronic 123 distributor. I have replaced the plugs with cool running NGK BP8HS units but still the car runs on. I have resorted to stalling it to prevent this happening! The vacuum pipe rubber connectors were renewed in 2016. I slightly retarded the timing but this merely flattened performance without curing the problem, so timing is back where it was. I believe the engine has a standard cam. Any pointers to curing the pro
  14. Hi guys, a quick question - i should replace the valve guides for my TR4A, got a set of steel ones, but can't find the measurement for how much should they stick out from the top of the cylinder head? Anyone? Cheers Luka
  15. Hi Guys, I'm planning to fit my TR6 PI with the 123 ignition distributor (number 8898 without vacuum port). As you know, it has 16 pre-memorized curves selectable by a rotary switch. My car configuration is basically stock CP 150bhp, original Lucas injection, fitted with a sport exhaust. By watching the original ignition curve of the lucas 22D distributor on the manual, the most similar curve of the 123 distributor seem to be the number 0 (zero). There is someone with more experience than me that it's using my same configuration? Which curve you have chosen on 123 ignition?
  16. Hello, I am going to the International next Sunday, setting off from Harrogate between 7am and 8am, anyone want/need a lift?, I am going on my own so plenty of room, cheers, Andrew PM if interested.
  17. Hi Folks Late into the year to start the engine rebuild, but been a busy winter and starting greatly hindered by parking the ferguson tractor outside the vitesse garage in November and then removing the transmission for a simple repair! Believe me you can move a car on trolley jacks, but a tractor split in half is going nowhere. Anyway three months later and finally pulled the engine and box from the Vitesse to find out the source of the rumble that started after Shelsley last year. Stripped the engine down this evening and looks like not good news, it was a big end that started knocki
  18. Hi Sage ones What is the standard construction for 4 pot pushrods? I ask, as Bob (Lebro) mentioned that in his they where solid rods with integral ends. Did they change through production to hollow tube with fitted head and tail ends? Cheers Iain
  19. Ok so the good news is that the car started up after being in bits during the respray. Bad news is oil pressure seemed a little elusive :-( Before sending the car for respray I took the oil filter housing and cooler off the car to give the respray guys access to the area around the engine. I replaced the filter housing and cooler but forgot to refil the filter with oil (naughty boy!). I gave the car about 30 secs on the starter with the plugs out. Then started the car and ran it for about 5-10 secs and then ran it again on the starter with out plugs for about 15-20 secs. No pressure. Have u
  20. Hi All, I have an oil cooler with a take off from the filter. Does anyone know which of the two take-offs from the filter head is the "out" for the oil and which is the "return". Cheers Tim
  21. Morning! Decided to address the little bit of 'slop' in my tr6's throttle linkage. I habe the cp throttle bodies and linkage on my 'hybrid/mongrel' engine, so bought the polybushes and adjustable links from moss Removed and cleaned everything this morning and assembled on the bench, easy job! The two bishes at the ends of the shaft were ok, but the middle one was virtually all gone, the adjustable links were in decent condition with just one of the 'screwdriver ends' broken. I've ordered a flow meter to help set things up, hopefully that will arrive today ot tomorrow and i'
  22. Bear with me.... Took Olde Very Smokey for a run today - apart from the MoT - first time since end of July Started first time, ran well, good steady oil pressure and temps all the way, with a run down the A21 in slowish traffic, one junction round the M25 at circa 70mph to blow off the cobwebs, pulled strongly for overtaking - and then headed back up the A20 (traffic again) - total circa 1 hour. About 2 miles from home whilst sitting in a queue I spotted the crank case breather breathing steamyish. Had a minor panic thinking that I hadn't checked the water before leaving, but w
  23. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  24. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Che
  25. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber wa
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