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  1. Hi all, I've been meaning to get the engine tuned, and injection properly set up on my TR6 for a while!.. Finally started to look around for a 'specialist' place that could do this in the area.. Around Sandhurst, Berkshire.. Or a reasonable distance. Does anyone know of anywhere that can set them up properly, and can recommend? Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  2. Gents, this is as far as i can get with the wire brush, yet the seats are pitted quite a bit. Shall I attempt something more drastic i.e. with Dremel grinder ? As always
  3. Hi I had some rough running for a while on my TR5 PI went through whole lot, even replaced metering unit (was due anyway) and finally tracked it down to a brocken rocker arm on N°2 valve. I dont want to get too involved right now so... I have just ordered a new original style arm and was wondering if its best to simply remove the whole shaft assembly by undoing the pedestals nuts (whats torque just over 3,4 right?) or if to remove pin and cap and replace on situ as its only the second one from the front.? Anything else I should check? Any particular reason an arm should break? Thanks. T
  4. Rem18

    Rocker studs

    Just a quick question. Do the rocker studs go in long thread in head or short.? I found mine were short thread in, I will probably see when I put them back but it struck me that they might have been in upside down? Thanks T
  5. My car is still running with its original rubber and banjo hose from the rigid fuel pipe to the carbs. Having just read the Unleaded debate for PI systems it got me thinking/worried. Should this be replaced as its unlikely to be Ethanol resistant and if so, what with and from Whom? The from Whom is important as I have had issues with fuel filter glass bowl seals that were allegedly Ethanol proof and swell by about 30% in size..........you only find out when you go to clean the fuel filter bowl and the seal explodes out its groove and wont go back for 24 hrs after which it has shrunk
  6. As the title says, I have a nasty "bag of nuts and bolts" rattle at the front of the engine somewhere. My car is a TR2, original engine. No mechanical fan as there is no room with R&P steering, so I have a puller electric fan on the inside of the radiator. I've checked the rocker arm clearances, put four or five pumps of grease into the water pump, tensioned the fan belt a bit in case the cause was any of those. My next thoughts were to take the fan belt off and run the engine for a short while to eliminate the dynamo and water pump as sources of the noise. I have a feeling it may b
  7. The ignition light was staying one. So I thought alternator. (I have one of those that looks like a dynamo but is actually an alternator). I checked all the wiring and nothing was loose. I looked at the fan belt and it looked glazed and worn. So I thought I would start by replacing the belt (It was only 2 years old with about 2000 miles on it) I also had blade split on the cooling fan and I had a replacement so I thought I would fit that too. To get the new belt on, I undid the engine mounts and jacked up the engine - fairly straightforward. I have attached picture
  8. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am usin
  9. Last year we went to the Triumph National Rally in the Clare Valley in South Australia. Before we went I had noticed some oil mist on the back of the car. I initially thought that it was a leaking gearbox seal, but a Triumph Specialist (TS) thought that it was leaking pushrod tubes. I had the tubes resealed as well as new seals in the gearbox. On the first day of the trip we noticed LARGE amounts of oil on the bottom of the car. It took a litre to top it up. In the course of the 3000km trip, it used/ejected 6 litres of oil. It all appeared to be coming out of the dipstick hole. On our ret
  10. I know there have been a few threads about this, but guys Im desperate! I have a 1973 car which was brought back from the USA in the 90's and was converted to PI with a donor engine from a 1971 CP car. Ive owned it for the last 17 years, with hardly any issues- superb tick over, good responsive acceleration. Last year it was beginning to run a bit lumpy bottom end on acceleration, so I took it to a rolling road. All was going well, until the mechanic started playing with the throttles, and sprayed carb cleaner on the butterflies. Then he commented that he couldnt adjust one of the sets
  11. A company I came across several years ago, looking for component to make up a fuel pressure testing rig, and have subsequently used for odd requirements. They seem to have a vast selection of products, and by phone were knowledgeable and more than helpful . . . . . also have an ebay shop https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Silicone-Hose-World/Terms-and-Policys.html Usual disclaimers, I don't know the folks there, simply found them useful ! Cheers Alec
  12. People, the long overdue recon of the 4A engine is finally moving forward. It's all stripped down and i'm inspecting the faults. The ugly finding is the meltdown of the cyl 1 conrod bearings and ensuing damages. The piston head was hitting the head gasket causing it to shred, no big deal though. More worrisome is the poor shape of the crankshaft which would require serious grinding and of course ... one crack. My concern is that the crack is longitudinal and located smack in-line with the casting "join" (white paint lines). Cause for concern? cheers
  13. My car has been with Crown Classics for a few days to sort out the bad running. Just heard back from them, and my worst fears were realised. A new camshaft is required. Everything else was checked recently when a new thrust bearing was fitted, compression is really good and equal. The engine was rebuilt several years ago by the infamous engine builder that many people were using at the time. He has since disappeared from the Triumph scene after many people had problems with his work including camshaft failure. Although I had other serious problems, I thought I had escaped the camshaft prob
  14. Following on from the post on this forum about Masterlube, I've been meaning to get some because I too suffer from squeaking suspension. As I now only live about 30 miles from Revington TR, I thought yesterday would be an ideal time to drive there. What I had forgotten was that my route was going to take me right past Worthy Farm where the preparations for Glastonbury were in full swing so there was a fair amount of sitting in traffic jams on a very hot afternoon. What was a result was that the cooling system performed as it should; whenever I hit a jam and the temperature started to
  15. Hi there, I am looking to have the engine from my TR4a rebuilt (along with the gearbox) and would ask if anyone can highly recommend any specialist they have used over the past few years - preferably in the Oxfordshire/Berkshire area - although not essential if it's the right person. If anyone has had a full new rebuild, an indication on cost and time it took? Obvosuly every case is individual, but a ballpark would be nice to know. Thanks in advance Paul
  16. Today, car going well, noisy tappets, engine revving at about 5000 (redline 6500 on new motor) suddenly noise like running over cans or metal hoops and all power goes & motor dies much investigation later , no spark, replaced coil, pulled cover off dissy & its not rotating when motor cranking over, so pulled dissy shaft and it rotates when free suggests the teeth on the diisy drive or the camshaft have sheared or some other failure on the cam any ideas pllease car towed to workshop, wont know more till next week Graeme
  17. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
  18. My TR3a seems exceptionally susceptible to the effect of old fuel. A month ago I resurrected the car from a couple of months laid up in the garage and it coughed and spluttered until I brimmed the tank with fresh Shell V Power fuel at which point it ran like a dream whilst I drove it 125 miles to its new home. (We were moving house). For the last month it has sat in the garage while the house gets sorted but yesterday I took it out on the road again and it is coughing and spluttering again. If starts OK and idles pretty well and initially when it is still warming up seems good but
  19. Well, Things are ticking along now with a momentous day yesterday of re-uniting the body tub with the chassis. A few bits to sort out, but overall a huge milestone for me from where I was approx 3 years and 2 months ago. Ive managed to decipher the shims/packing washers puzzle and am going round making sure Im starting at ground zero as so to speak and have noticed the bellhousing is touching the underside of the front panel. Ive included a pic as my description is probably poor. So its either the engine is too high up, or the shell is too low (im inclined to assume the engi
  20. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  21. Interesting article on pistons etc http://www.wbclassics.com/tech/tr6/engine/triumph-tr6-cast-piston-comparison
  22. Good Afternoon, I have had my original CR series TR6 throttle bodies rebuilt by Prestige Injection Services and re-fitted together with an under-slung Prestige linkage kit. The quality of work is excellent and the assembly has all gone together very well. I have covered approximately 2,000 miles since. I have a problem when the car gets hot (not overheating) that the throttle sticks open and doesn't allow the car to return to idle. When this happens if you push the linkage manually from under the bonnet normal tick-over is resumed. Once the engine cools the throttle return works perfect
  23. They showed the TR6 makeover on Wheeler Dealers yesterday again, and I wondered if others here had had it done for the 300 quid they paid? Also if Lead provided a 'soft' seat for the Valves, how come they insert 'hard' seats for unleaded ?
  24. TonyC

    Ol pumps

    Hi All, Moving on from starter motors and ring gear, can we turn our attention to oil pumps. Does anyone know who the manufacturers are of current replacement oil pumps from usual sources. I removed the pump in my 6, at 7000 miles, after a nut and bolt rebuild by previous owner. Clearances - rotor to spindle, and rotor to bore were above tolerance although end float was ok. The replacement pump wasn't very much better (yes clearances were out of tolerance) but I fitted it anyway. Since doing that I have scoured tinternet and forum and get the feeling that, well, all new pumps may
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