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  1. Can anyone out there help with a slightly low oil pressure and where it might be going? The engine was rebuilt in 2012 since when it has not travelled many miles. It has a reground crank 30 thou undersize Initially when I checked the oil pump it seemed all within spec so rather than replace an original item with a questionable replacement I kept it. When I started to use the car the oil pressure was on the low side when the oil was hot so I bought a new pump from the TR Shop along with a set of big end shells and fitted them. When I took the old shells out they weren't showing si
  2. Hi All Making some progress with my rebuild and I’m coming up against things I’ve not done before and the instructions in the brown book (BB) are a little thin (for me anyway!), so some helpful advice as to how to do some stuff. So bear in mind this the first time I’ve tried reassembly of many of these items after they’ve been apart for a long time, so often I’ve simply not done it before or can’t remember how stuff came apart. So the BB says to establish the distributor drive shaft end float (P 12.10.22). And it all makes sense, But. I’m having problems getting the
  3. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe conne
  4. Are FO8 seals available other than the steel 16 thou and copper 18 thou listed in the Moss book? Interested in thicknesses JJC
  5. Hi all I have just removed the head on my 1958 Tr3a high port engine and found a crack between the valve seats on number 3 cylinder. No inserts are fitted.The crack extends approx 8mm down the exhaust and 4mm down the inlet port. I believe my alternatives are to have the crack welded/ machined by a specialist firm or to replace the head. Has anyone had experience of having a similar head crack repaired. If anyone has a spare high port cylinder head that they are willing to part with, please PM me. Regards Alan
  6. Good afternoon everyone, As I have mentioned in a previous thread, I am planning to remove the gearbox this coming winter. Whilst I have access to the back of the engine, I am going to have a look at the flywheel. When I rebuilt the engine I re-installed the flywheel and its ring gear in the same configuration as when I dismantled it. Since then I have installed a hi torque (pre-engaged) started. I have read various posts on the forum stating that I should have reversed the ring gear to match the fact that the pre-engaged starter gear would engage from the engine side of the f
  7. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  8. Grinnal

    SU Carbs

    Hi Folks Can anyone recommend a garage that is good with SU carbs in the Dudley / Wolverhampton area? Thanks Mike
  9. Hi folks, thought id post something about working on my TR...... :-) I have a Bosch 996 pump that was installed in the 1990s by Racetorations and which works perfectly, can run the car right down to empty without a problem. Knowing these pumps are NLA i bought one that came up on ebay a while ago, well couple of years ago probably!, and this week decided it was time for a test. Since ill be messing with the flexible pipes ive bought some new 250psi rated flexible hose, new mounts and clips. Ive also ordered a slightly larger outlet fitting for the pump to better fit the 10mm hose.
  10. Hi, I’m seriously thinking of converting my TR5 from Weber 40DCOEs to EFI. I know that some of you out there have changed to EFI and have been pleased with the results so I’m hoping to benefit from your experience. I know little about EFI, is there any ‘must-read’ information out there that would get me started. The only thing that I have thought is that I would like to use a spare set of CP throttle bodies that I have as I like their compactness (100mm shorter than the Weber/manifold). I hope these would allow an effective cold-air box system. This is something that has been a problem wit
  11. Whilst tidying some stuff the other day I 'found' my compression tester which I bought back in the early 70s and hardly ever used. Anyway, as a displacement activity from further tidying, I thought I would carry out a quick test. The engine was stone cold and I got the following results: 160psi 165psi 165psi 165psi I then repeated the test after putting a couple of squirts of oil in the bores and got 170psi 175psi 175psi 175psi All of these figures were repeatable. I then carried out a search of the forum to find out whether or not the lower reading on No: 1 is significant and it appea
  12. Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
  13. Hi guys, Thanks for all the helpful posts I've already learnt from. As a relatively new 6 owner here, and I want to check my thrust washers as a preventative measure. I've searched through many threads on here and have got a good idea now, but I wanted to list it out to make sure I've got it right. 1) using a Dti gauge measure the current end float (push pulley in, press clutch to push out) 2) if above reveals wear over minimum, drain oil, remove sump, bearing cap and take out TW's and check (if possible) what size were fitted. 3) if I can see what size were fitted
  14. wjgco

    Spark Plugs

    Gents My 6 has; - NGK BP6ES plugs - Luminition electronic ignition I plan to change the plugs. Is there any reason why I should not install NGK BPR6EV Gold Palladium plugs as replacements? I understand that the 'R' indicates that the plug has a resistor fitted. This should, I feel, be mated with an electronic ignition I like the fine electrode on the 'V' plug, as I believe that it offers a hotter burn Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated Thanks John
  15. All the PI components on my car have been reconditioned and the linkage replaced by a new, still underslung, type. After being quite poorly installed by a local Triumph specialist, the linkage was disassembled yesterday by a TR6 owning mechanic and reassembled correctly. I have a good spray pattern from all injectors and the inlet manifolds are reasonably balanced (less adjustment on this linkage). We took the car for a run and after a couple of miles the idle revs started to build, eventually hitting 5k by the time I found a place to pull over. The throttle rods had elongated with the heat, b
  16. Kevo_6

    Head Gasket?

    Hi Here we go again, its never ending, that luck is not always with me. Anyway since the end of last year Ive had fuel pressure problems which I now managed to sort by the end of last week. I started it up last week to test and all good but I thought Id give it a service before taking it for a run as not been out since October last year (when the fuel problem arose). Over the winter Ive checked water and oil and that all seemed fine, so this morning I adjusted the tappets, put new plugs in and then checked the oil to find it quite high up the dipstick and it was a bit sludgy but I thought
  17. Can someone explain to me why the PI TR6 didn't have / need a vacuum advance? Or is it just my car that doesn't have it? Thinking it would help increase the advance at high revs? Standard car, electronic ignition Graze
  18. Hello again, steady progress with the Efi, car now starts and reasonably steady tickover, before I take the car to the rolloing road I will have to feed the advance in by hand as the advance mechanism is solid (that's another story), anyone know the advance in degrees per 500 rpm increase for a standard distributor, thanks again, Andrew
  19. Hi Folks, I hope you experts out there can give me some info. I am about to undertake gearbox overhaul, but as there are some annoying oil leaks I want to replace the rear engine seal. The engine has had the oil scroll to oil seal conversion carried out. Is it possible to replace the seal by removing the flywheel and nothing else with the engine still in the car? Best wishes Willie
  20. Anybody need a Gbox with a jtype and a 6cyl? Would all need re-doing
  21. I paid a hefty invoice this evening to get my car back after a clutch change and an engine swap. The engine came out of a fire damaged car so I knew there might be issues although it looked to be in good nick. The garage is a a Triumph specialist but they don't do many TR's, part of the job was refitting newly reconditioned PI equipment. On driving away, the car was popping & farting a lot, rather like a souped up Saxo, it was noisier than before as it now has a phoenix manifold & single silencer exhaust, but I don't think the popping is normal. I drove home around 20 miles, as I neare
  22. Can someone please advise on the correct cylinder compression readings for a CR 1973 TR6 is 110 good !! ??
  23. Hi Folks, Another question which I can't get my head around. My car as a late TR4 [July 1964] is displaying strange combustion. Twin CD175 Strombergs are fitted. Numbers 1 & 4 spark plugs look as if the mixture is leanish, whereas numbers 2 & 3 look as if the mixture is too rich! How can the front carb create lead cylinder lean and trailing [#2] cylinder rich, and the rear carb create lead [#3 cylinder] rich and trailing [#4] cylinder lean? To my amateurish eye, it just doesn't make sense! Best wishes Willie
  24. I spent last night searching the forum for possible answers to this conundrum. The background is is as follows. Engine completely rebuilt, machining all by a company with decades of TR experience. New Cam/ cam bearings and followers fitted with Cam lube and run as advised on here and by the machine shop. Engine has now done 750 miles. the last 350 of which have been accompanied by a fairly loud tappet (individual) noise at tick over "when hot". Clearances have been checked and rechecked and they are spot on at 16" and 18".(Fast Road Cam). This issue is not present when cold. So he
  25. So before I get to the point of serious dismantling, can anyone advise what engine checks would be worth doing whilst it's still all connected up and able to run? I was told that a fair amount of engine work was done on the car (65 TR4a) in the States about 10 years ago (but only about 8K miles ago) but I haven't been able to find out exactly what was done (or why). The engine seems to run pretty well, oil pressure comes up quickly, idles fairly smoothly, no obvious noises, exhaust a little smoky on initial choke but seems to be ok after a while. I did detect a little oil when putting my hand
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