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  1. Hi Folks, Anyone got any supplier recommendations for choke cables? I see the above part number seems to be no longer stocked by most of the usual suspects so any help appreciated! Regards Jas
  2. I am part way through rebuilding a 6 cylinder PI engine and now need to buy some standard sized mains and big end bearing shells. For mains, suppliers offered are Glacier and County and for the rods Glyco and County. For both, County are approximately half the cost of the alternative. It would be great if members could advise of any good or bad experiences with these different bearing Suppliers. Thanks Jerry
  3. Stuck in France and just need know the inlet port spacing on a CP head, preferably in mm, thanks in advance.
  4. I'm rebuilding the engine of my 3A (UFN 878). Should I use cam lube when reassembling the main and big end bearings or should I use oil? Tom.
  5. Next up and wont be ready for some time but by way of preparation.... My resto has an engine rebuilt by Minisport (believe they are near Leeds). The PO used to run a garage. Have spoken to him and he assures me it was done to TR spec (I need to investigate this further). The real issue is this was done some 10 yrs ago so getting detail is nigh on impossible. The car was then sold on and then the head was rebuilt (about 2 yrs ago). Its a CF engine and a CP head and CR cam....apparently lightened and balanced. Its got a new flywheel and ring gear, clutch. .I'll probably go with PI (
  6. My TR6 1970 has 107k on the clock , genuine mileage and smoke free ,even at start up. Oil pressure is excellent.The engine is quiet. I am thinking about replacing all the bottom end crank related bearings( big, little , thrust washers and piston rings) . The engine has not had any work done on it, so rather than wait until a regrind or rebore etc is needed, thought it would make sense to replace the items with new same size ! Also, can the thrust washers be replaced with the engine in the car and box attached ?
  7. After much thought I decided to switch from webers back to SU's for my TR6. I found a guy selling the complete manifold and carbs for 100.00 US and decided to make the change. After ten minutes I discovered that the previous owner had also changed the exhaust manifold as well and in order to make it fit he ground off two of the studs on the block to get the aftermarket manifold to fit. What should have been a 4 to 5 hour job is now going to be a weekend just to make it right.
  8. Gents, what`s the difference between a "long back" and "short back" crank and where do you measure from or identify it? Thanks, Steve.
  9. After covering a few hundred miles on the new engine (four cylinder) I am about to retorque the head. My normal procedure and that which I have been recommended in the past is to slacken the nuts by 1/4 turn and then retighten to 100-105 ft lbs but recently someone has said not to bother slackening but just check with torque wrench and tighten where necessary. Which is your preference and indeed does it matter?
  10. Hi, Having purchase replacement 6mm nylon tube from Pirtek, although slightly smaller than the original 1/4 tube, what's the best way to heat up the tube ends to push the pipe onto the Injector /metering unit fittings. Using hotwater or heat gun does not give enough control, so when attempting to press on the fitting the tube colaspes. Any tips appreciate. Thanls Rich
  11. Hi guys A quick question on setting valve clearances on a four pot running standard cams etc. I went through this process following initial start up of our rebuilt engine, but I think I may not have done it properly: I measured the clearances (when cold) for both the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder when that cylinder was at TDC. I thought this would be ok given that both valves would be well and truly closed at this point of their cycle. I now note (having RTFI’d) that you are supposed to carry out this adjustment when the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is exactly
  12. My appointment as Registrar for the marque Triumph Italia was confirmed by the Committee on Sunday. I look forward to working with the club, Italia owners and enthusiasts, and anyone who wants to know more about these fine and rare cars. My library of information about Italias is growing daily, and I hugely enjoy the International appeal of them to owners & restorers worldwide. The published pool of documentation is slim, mainly because the Italian factory records are lost or destroyed, but traces of chassis and engine numbers through the established Standard Triumph archives is a
  13. When stripping my six cyl engine, I measured the crank end float at 11 thou. From what I had read about the weakness of the thrust bearings, I thought I was lucky and ordered the +5 thou thrusts which I thought would bring the E/F to the recommended 6 thou. I came to fit the new bearings yesterday and realised that both bearings are +5 and as they are fitted either side of the rear bearing, it would reduce the E/F 1 thou? I decided to fit one +5 and one original washer to acheive the 6 thou E/F. Is this the accepted way of doing it and why do they sell washers as a pair of +5? The
  14. Well, after reading up on the subject I opted for a cork gasket and Wellseal. I hadn't heard of, or tried Wellseal before, and it did sould like the stuff to use from what I had read. What a disaster In my opinion its like trying to seal the sump with golden syrup, although after lying on my back under the car I'm certain that Tate and Lyles finest is a damn sight easier to get out of your hair! Theres obviously a fair bit of give in the cork gasket, thats the whole point of using one I guess, to take up any imperfections in the sealing surfaces. I was clearly a bit heavy h
  15. Hi Folks, spotted this on the CT forum and it is causing a bit of intrigue as to what it is. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331045388161?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Early rocker cover Fan on the water pump Dipstick to the rear Lots of head gaskets Answers on a postcard Roger
  16. I'm burning oil when I drive my car and thought that I may need to replace the rings. The plugs are oily when removed, plugs 1 to 5, with 6 being a nice brown color. The cylinder pressure testing I did today have given me the following results (cold engine, all plugs removed). #1 130 #2 135 #3 132 #4 135 #5 140 #6 132 So where or what do I look at next? Thanks, Bob
  17. My project has a rebuilt CF series engine with a CP head. The cam i(I've been told) is a CP cam. Ive transposed the timing dots from the old top large sprocket wheel to a new large top sprocket and followed the brown bible to set that up (ie align it with the bottom crank sprocket at TDC) and then do the valve timing. Will that be OK. I'm just a bit concerned that I'm not completely sure which cam is in there an early CP one or a later 125BHP one, will this make any material difference. In case youre wondering I'm no engine man....
  18. PaulAA

    Metamorphosis

    I am in shock. My Man Artur has just completed the HS6 transplant and the difference between this morning's wheezy journey to the workshop on the Strombergs and the return home is beyond description. The two refurbished SUs, from Andrew Turner, are magnificent. I appreciate that a thorough refurb of the Strombergs might have resulted in something of a transformation, but not the metamorphosis that the SUs have brought. This is now a beast. The power band is discernibly wider and she starts to pull enthusiastically at barely more than tick-over. She also pulls hard to beyond 4k rev
  19. Here is an aircraft bolt that will probably do for the dowel bolts on your TR5-250-6 engine to gearbox attachment. They are close tolerance 3/8" shank with a 3/8 unf thread. Be sure they are the right length - They are advertised as 1" grip length which should do. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-3-8-UNF-Close-Tolerance-Hex-Head-Bolts-Part-NAS6606-17-I4-/130896612945?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item1e7a0bce51 Cheers Peter W
  20. Hello all, My question for those who have twin weber carbs is how do you run the vent line from the valve cover to the carbs? In my setup I have the vent line running to the carb input of the #1 carb, I do not like this setup because I feel that it bypasses all filters and dumps unfiltered gasses right into the weber and is causing my engine to run rich. Any thoughts? Bob
  21. Charles Runyan of The Roadster Factory has been working for the last 6+ months to replicate the rectangular AC air filter decals for TR3-3B SU H6 carbs. He wasn't happy with the existing options so set a goal to make the best available. and wanted to make the best possible. I had the chance to share some of my images (and the reference images from the car of a member of this forum, too) with TRF as they worked on the project. I got a few samples of the finished product the other day and thought people might like to see 'em. NFI on my part -- just a chance to share information and upgrad
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