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  1. Right gents Engine back in after second rebuild (long story ) and all ready to start. Questions; 1. Do I try to start on my own 2. Do I ask the wife to help me with the starting operation!!!!!!! 3. Do I just look at it for a few months until this frigging lock down is over. Your thoughts Al
  2. I have just learnt that the air plenum on my rebuild project TR5 is from a TR6 and that the inlet manifolds are also the air bleed type. Apart from the originality issue are there any other issues to be considered or do I just fit as if it was a TR6? I have had a look at other photos of 5s including the one for sale at £75,000 described as possibly the best concours 5 there is, and it has the same plenum as the one below. The originality issue is not of any great concern. Mine is the blue one , obviously! Many thanks, Tim
  3. Could some kind person tell me what the correct paint finish is for the air plenum box on a 1968 TR5. For some reason I thought that is a black crackle ..... Or am I dreaming? Many thanks, Tim
  4. Hi, I would like to hear from anyone that has replaced their Strombergs with SU carbs. Is this worth doing, or even a good idea? Do they work as well with the TR6 engine? Are there other considerations one has to keep in mind? Problems? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi All I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Adam
  6. My TR3a has HS6 carbs on a TR4a manifold. It has been running in that configuration ever since I finished rebuilding it in 2014. In July this year I participated in the Liége-Brescia-Liége Rally and the car ran pretty much faultlessly for the entire trip but when I got home blew the head gasket - literally on the doorstep. I have replaced the head gasket and all seems well in that department but ever since then I have had a problem with adjusting the carbs - or to be more specific, the front one. When I check the plugs for the rear two cylinders, they are the requisite sandy br
  7. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  8. Many years ago I acquired a vacuum gauge as a tuning aid and I recently came across it whilst looking for something else entirely. I have since fitted a vacuum gauge take off to the inlet manifold and run the engine with the gauge attached. It is showing about 15 ins Mercury which from my recollection is a tad low. The needle has a very slight vibration (about + or - 1" Hg). The engine is idliing pretty smoothly at around 800 rpm once warm. I have checked both carbs and the pistons are moving freely and they are balanced. Timing is 12º BTDC at idle. Does anyone out t
  9. Hi All Getting well on with my resto now and as most things seem to work I’m trying the first engine start in my ownership and for well over a decade, but I can’t get it to fire and so I need a bit of advice. So it’s got a rebuilt engine (by me) as well as new electrics and the pump, starter and ignition all seem to work. All Pi gear was refurbed properly, by Neil F, and is completely standard so that bit should be good. Now after messing around with quite a few niggly issues, ignition and leaks, all of those seem to be sorted and I have a sparking ignition and leak free fuel sy
  10. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would lik
  11. Hi Knowledgeable Folk, I have been given a number of parts, most of which are TR4. I'll post a list in a bit in case anyone needs them and is willing to source (free, except for shipping) from Canada! But first, I need to confirm the set of pistons (and liners) that came in the box. They are used, and the pistons have the following identification marks stamped on them: BHB (in a circle) 205498 M62 2 1 (Note: the 2 and the 1 may be related, but aren't quite the same size or same orientation, but they are fairly close to each other) If this isn't enough information, I can
  12. Hi all I can’t coax my 6 into life. So after rebuilding most of it I’ve come to the first start in many a year and it sort of won’t. Pretty much everything has been changed or refurbed so either I’ve got something wrong or I’m stupid (this latter one is high on the list of suspects, lol) I have fuel being supplied by a newly refurbed (everything) Pi system and it all seems to be getting to the right places and the starter turns the engine over pretty energetically. The main issue seems to be no spark at the plugs, so no attempt to fire. I’ve used one of those In-Line I
  13. Having just completed the Liege - Brescia - Liege rally, (just over 2,000 miles of rally plus another 800 miles getting to Liege and back and during which the car performed nigh on faultlessly), I went out the garage this afternoon to start it up to warm it through preparatory to adjusting the tappets etc., only for it to start spitting (no - pouring!) coolant out through the overflow pipe. Bugger! Does anyone have any suggestions about what it could be apart from a blown head gasket? At least it waited until I got home. Rgds Ian PS In addition to a couple of track tests o
  14. Gents, for the breaking-in I have a big magnet which I want to stick somewhere to monitor the scraps if any. What's the best place: Bottom of the oil filter (spin-on) or bottom of the sump? As always
  15. Hi everyone, in finalization of my mechanics major overhaul of the '66 4A i own, it's come to the point of degreeing the camshaft. It's a TT1004 cam, with the following specs: Inlet Timing: 37-63 Exhaust Timing: 73-27 Install Figure: 103˚ Cam Duration: 280˚ Reading everything that contains words "camshaft", "cam", TT1xxx, or similar, i've found that this specific one works best when setup just as per specs - installed at 103˚. However - coming from some experience with Minis, there is always talk about timing chain stretch and that you should expect it
  16. Hi, I am having a problem on start up, the engine starts, but bangs cracks pops in the exaust pipe, When the engine warms this stops, I recon on to much air getting in some were, then when warm expands and stops Or could it be blocked jefs in the carb Running on webber's, and 123 unit  What do you think Thanks pink
  17. Hello All, I am looking for opinions and anecdotal evidence on the best TR engine specialist in the UK. At some point in the next 24/36 months, I would like my TR4A's engine rebuilt and when I do I would like it tuned/modified to a fast road specification. I live in Canterbury, Kent, which is a disadvantage as it seems to be a long way from any the UK's genuine TR specialists (please correct me if I am wrong). However, it is an advantage in that when I do have the engine rebuilt, I may as well have the car transported to which ever specialist I fancy most. I have considered
  18. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got h
  19. Hi I am looking to replace the old engine mounts on my '6. Given all the concerns about poor rubber quality, does anyone have any recommendations on supplier, or are they all the same quality / from same source? Thanks in advance Steve
  20. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the e
  21. Regular readers may recall that I raised a concern about slightly low oil pressure a couple of months ago. I think it was Mick who suggested it could be down to excessive end float on the crank. I have the gearbox out at the moment so I put a dial gauge on the end of the crank and levered it back and forth to get a repeatable figure of 0.18mm or 7.1 thou. This is outside the recommended workshop manual range of 4 to 6 thou. Is it significant and should I be thinking about replacing the thrust washers? Rgds Ian
  22. Dear All, Can anyone help me to understand the procedures and modifications necessary for upgrading the TR250 engine to TR5 spec or slightly above that level of performance? Is this easily attainable or am I better off sourcing a different engine? Thank you for your wisdom. Dave.
  23. Hi All, New to TR ownership and the register that seems very informative, so a cry for help to the community. I now have a 72 TR6 that I've waited years to own and having done a few months of maintenance and upgrades am now a bit stumped. I have a regular tapping noise that is most noticeable from inside the cabin, increases as the revs rise and whilst difficult to hear with the bonnet up due to fan noise etc it is best heard by putting your ear into the drivers foot well. It appears to be coming from low down in the engine,best described as a tapping noise and cont
  24. Hello, this comes up frequently and has been vexing me of late, which one shall I fit?, how does duration, timing, lift etc affect performance, found what I was looking for here, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-9812-secrets-of-camshaft-power/ Good old Google!!, cheers, Andrew
  25. Denis

    Water Pump

    Background sort of 'Schissing' sound from my engine...doesn't change if I dip the clutch. So listened around with a rubber hose pipe...Water Pump sounded quite noisy. I popped the belt off and the pulley spins freely enough. So assuming it's the water pump bearings...are they easy to change, or get hold of new ones, do I need special tools, and do you have to drain the coolant? Or...any harm in just leaving it? And, was it my fault for being lazy, greasing it the last few times with CV grease that was in my gun?
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