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  1. Hi my handsome friends An old chestnut i no, my apoligies, I am running webers, wild cam ligtened fly wheel, (fast road engine) Car runs well over 2, 000 rpm, in traffic below 2000rpm the plugs start to foul up, resulting in banging missing etc, they clear when I get going, Dificult on the iow short journeys, I use the gear box to keep the revs up to prevent fouling, is there a plug that would help with this I am running ngk 7 presently thank you Pink
  2. Hello, still bolting the engine bits back together and the next hurdle is the camshaft, with the camshaft fitted (new), bearing in place and cam sprocket bolted on there appears to be no endfloat, in fact the cam sprocket is tight up against the front cam bearing and it won't turn, I have searched on here and read both manuals and information is scarce. Looking at the setup I think I have to remove a few thou off the rear of the cam bearing to get my end float, the front can't be changed as the cam sprocket is hard up against the bearing, am I right?, as always, thanks, Andrew
  3. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  4. Cleaned the plugs and checked plug leads late, the night before going on a run on my TR 6 which has an Acuspark electronic ignition unit in the distributor. It ran badly the next day , losing power as the revs rose and coughing , spitting (Triple Webers). However managed about 100 miles leading a group of friends. Back at home I checked my TR6 and found that had accidently connected both wires of the ignition module to the negative terminal on the coil (Aldon Flame Thrower). Correctly connected with one wire of ignition unit on pos. terminal of coil and my car got its mojo back !!! . How did
  5. Hi All, Just purchased a 1971 TR6 - but I am aware that many on here will not appreciated it! It is powered by a BMW M50 2.5 engine with a BMW 5 speed box. I have to say is drives brilliantly and I think the performance suits the car. First job is to work out why the break lights don’t work!
  6. Hi chaps, What size socket fits the crank pulley bolt? Cheers Tim
  7. Hello, there appears to be three different types available, all rubber, rubber part metal and original all metal housing, any views on the efficiency of each type? Rebuild continuing slowly, too busy at work! As always, thanks for the help, Andrew
  8. Hello, about to start engine rebuild and as recommended by many on here, about to check liner heights. Would it be acceptable to clamp the liners with shorter bolts so removing the need for spacers, I ask as I am struggling getting the spacers, tubing I used and cut to size deformed under the pressure of 105 foot pounds, cheers, Andrew
  9. Afternoon Gents Ive searched though parts book and tech book and am unable to identify theses. Must be OE where fitted Your help would be appreciated
  10. Hi all I am moving onto the engine rebuild so this is probably the start of many posts/questions, thanks in advance for any suggestions. The engine was seized including the cam but the crankshaft looks ok and will be checked along with the block and cylinder head checks for cracks. I am currently planning on fitting 87mm piston and liners, Max Speed con rods, a Newman P1 cam and followers, rear oils seal conversion (is there a proffered make/supplier/type? , I have already purchased a Phoenix big bore exhaust and manifold. I am now looking at the cylinder head which is an early hig
  11. Hello, in the process of checking all bits before re-assembling, one of the reasons for the rebuild was to try and cure, or reduce, the many oil leaks, there was a substantial weep from the front. After Stuart posted a comment about front plates I checked mine and sure enough it is warped. Across the flanges it is good but further towards the top the gap from edge to edge is in excess of 25 thou, admittedly less between the bolt holes but still a gap. My question is will the bolts pull the plate flush? or do I need to do something more drastic? Cheers, Andrew
  12. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds I
  13. I am about to remove the engine from my TR3a to do some work on it. (among other issues fix an oil leak(s?) from the back end). I have a Clarke engine stand similar to the one in the attached picture with a mounting head as shown in the photo. Whenever I have used it in the past I have attached the engine to the stand using some studs that I have threaded to fit the back of the engine but I have always been extremely wary of their tensile strength. Does anyone on here have a clever means of fixing the engine that is a bit more robust? I have plenty of offcuts of angle iron and
  14. Hello, as the title says, any tips or clues? Engine now completely stripped down........apart from the dowel pins, thankyou, Andrew
  15. Anyone know what was used to make TR 4 cylinder cranks? was it EN 16 or 24 or what I ask because my original crank that I have had for 30 years all wrapped up in oily paper appears to be bent? With the main bearings in both ends and the center main bearingless (ie bearings taken out) the center main on the crank has a 5thou run out on a DTI I want to get it bent straight but that depends on the material it s made of Any one help on the metal of the crank or know abody to straighten it It only has to move 2.5 thou Thanks in advance for any help
  16. Hello All, getting ready to lift the engine out and I wonder if anyone has a photo of the arrangement using the lifting eyes, I have worked out how the front one fits but the rear one looks a little odd, it is the correct one that was supplied but not fitted when I bought the car, cheers, Andrew
  17. I am about to start the re-assembly of my TR3a engine. As part of the work I had the machine shop remove the ally core plugs at each end of the oil gallery so that they could give it a good clean. So my question is, what is the recommended procedure for replacing these items? Do I cut a slot in one end and screw them in as tight as possible with a large screwdriver before removing any outstanding stub with an angle grinder? And what sealant should I use? I have JB weld, Araldite rapid epoxy, Loctite 270, Wellseal and Heldtite. I don't want there to be any possibility of a lea
  18. OK, this is one of those 'hunt the noise' exercises. For a while, I have experienced a random clunk coming from the offside front of the 3A when stopping or pulling away. Not on every occasion my any means, but quite distinct when it happens and worse since my recent tour. I have R&P steering from an known source but no ARB. So, what can I check / remedy in case something has just loosened (rather than worn) before simply handing the car over to the engineers? Many thanks. Miles
  19. Hello, what is the weight of a 4 pot engine, cast head, less ancillaries, thanks you, Andrew
  20. It’s time to get some miles on this thing. Three years, lots of grief,laughs,heart ache,smiles. Many thanks to all those special people for there help you know who you are Right here goes nothing Al
  21. Having got my TR3a engine running as smoothly as it has ever done, I now have a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. Initially, I thought it was coming from the rocker cover but although that was part of the problem it has now been fixed and the oil leak persists. Yesterday, I put the car up on ramps so that I could take a good look underneath and discovered a steady drip fom the bottom of the bellhousing when the engine is running. It's definitely engine oil and stops when I turn the engine off. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the rear of the crank machined to take a
  22. All there have been a couple of threads regarding engine oil filters recently and some cross references have been supplied. Where cross referenced filters have been used and shown to work, then there is no issue, however; I was in the process of putting together a usable cross reference, based on filters that can be relied on. I have added the recently supplied information and took about 15 minutes on the web to extend the spreadsheet based on information supplied by just filter suppliers. My message is; Please do not take any information regarding compatibility at face value In
  23. Hello All, planning this winters project and a long overdue engine rebuild is on the cards, to cure oil leaks and cure blue smoke, apart from removing and rebuilding the engine is there a recommended schedule of works to go through prior to rebuild, ie crack test crank shaft, balance moving parts etc, I wouldn't want to miss what could be a crucial step, thanks in advance, Andrew
  24. Got a weird droning while driving about today and on lifting bonnet the cause was obvious. No rocker cover cap. Dunno why it went walkabout, Rocker cover is alloy one, Don't know supplier. If anybody can identify it and/or suggest where I could get a replacement that would be grand! (Its the 4 cylinder) Mike
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