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  1. alanwcoote

    Santa

    Morning Gents i have to say I’ve been honoured recently to have been contacted by Santa. He asked me to request this forum group to see if anyone may have a complete Phoenix exhaust system that they would be prepared to part with, if you have could you please forward info and I will forward to my new friend who can then make another individual very happy. Al
  2. I have just purchased stainless steel radiator return pipe with boss and thermostatic fan switch for my 73 uk TR6, part no.158417ss. However this new one is quite a different bended shape than my old one and the upper end does not seem to align correctly with the water pump housing connection. Fitting it would seem to bend the 90 deg. hose to quite a bit less than 90 deg. My old stainless one was not the best made but at least fitted but will need a repair. Were there different water pump housings and radiators that would explain my problem? Has anyone encountered this before? MARK
  3. Bob (who has worked with me for many years) has a fully rebuilt TR6 (PI) engine for sale.... Anyone that knows him will realise that he builds a superb engine and has been doing so for many many years professionally...... The engine has been totally stripped and is in the process of being built back up as we speak. The Short Back Crank has been machined / balanced and re-ground and will be fitted with new shells etc. It is worth noting a long back crank is also available if required. At this stage you can specify camshaft etc....The pistons etc are new and have all been balanced. The block
  4. Later PI CP TR6 models were, I believe fitted with single valve springs. CR models were fitted with double springs.( Info from Repair Operation Manual). I have a spare CR head but has single valve springs which I don't know is original fitting ??( Overlap between models from leftovers in the parts bin ?) . I have a 73 CR TR6 on Triple 40 DCOE Webers with a 285 cam. Anyone have an idea what would best twin or single valve springs for me ?. Jaguar AJ 6 valve springs for a TR6 have also been discussed in the past. Do these require the inner springs ? MARK
  5. Hi my handsome friends An old chestnut i no, my apoligies, I am running webers, wild cam ligtened fly wheel, (fast road engine) Car runs well over 2, 000 rpm, in traffic below 2000rpm the plugs start to foul up, resulting in banging missing etc, they clear when I get going, Dificult on the iow short journeys, I use the gear box to keep the revs up to prevent fouling, is there a plug that would help with this I am running ngk 7 presently thank you Pink
  6. Hello, still bolting the engine bits back together and the next hurdle is the camshaft, with the camshaft fitted (new), bearing in place and cam sprocket bolted on there appears to be no endfloat, in fact the cam sprocket is tight up against the front cam bearing and it won't turn, I have searched on here and read both manuals and information is scarce. Looking at the setup I think I have to remove a few thou off the rear of the cam bearing to get my end float, the front can't be changed as the cam sprocket is hard up against the bearing, am I right?, as always, thanks, Andrew
  7. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  8. Cleaned the plugs and checked plug leads late, the night before going on a run on my TR 6 which has an Acuspark electronic ignition unit in the distributor. It ran badly the next day , losing power as the revs rose and coughing , spitting (Triple Webers). However managed about 100 miles leading a group of friends. Back at home I checked my TR6 and found that had accidently connected both wires of the ignition module to the negative terminal on the coil (Aldon Flame Thrower). Correctly connected with one wire of ignition unit on pos. terminal of coil and my car got its mojo back !!! . How did
  9. Hi All, Just purchased a 1971 TR6 - but I am aware that many on here will not appreciated it! It is powered by a BMW M50 2.5 engine with a BMW 5 speed box. I have to say is drives brilliantly and I think the performance suits the car. First job is to work out why the break lights don’t work!
  10. Hi chaps, What size socket fits the crank pulley bolt? Cheers Tim
  11. Hello, there appears to be three different types available, all rubber, rubber part metal and original all metal housing, any views on the efficiency of each type? Rebuild continuing slowly, too busy at work! As always, thanks for the help, Andrew
  12. Hello, about to start engine rebuild and as recommended by many on here, about to check liner heights. Would it be acceptable to clamp the liners with shorter bolts so removing the need for spacers, I ask as I am struggling getting the spacers, tubing I used and cut to size deformed under the pressure of 105 foot pounds, cheers, Andrew
  13. Afternoon Gents Ive searched though parts book and tech book and am unable to identify theses. Must be OE where fitted Your help would be appreciated
  14. Hi all I am moving onto the engine rebuild so this is probably the start of many posts/questions, thanks in advance for any suggestions. The engine was seized including the cam but the crankshaft looks ok and will be checked along with the block and cylinder head checks for cracks. I am currently planning on fitting 87mm piston and liners, Max Speed con rods, a Newman P1 cam and followers, rear oils seal conversion (is there a proffered make/supplier/type? , I have already purchased a Phoenix big bore exhaust and manifold. I am now looking at the cylinder head which is an early hig
  15. Hello, in the process of checking all bits before re-assembling, one of the reasons for the rebuild was to try and cure, or reduce, the many oil leaks, there was a substantial weep from the front. After Stuart posted a comment about front plates I checked mine and sure enough it is warped. Across the flanges it is good but further towards the top the gap from edge to edge is in excess of 25 thou, admittedly less between the bolt holes but still a gap. My question is will the bolts pull the plate flush? or do I need to do something more drastic? Cheers, Andrew
  16. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds I
  17. I am about to remove the engine from my TR3a to do some work on it. (among other issues fix an oil leak(s?) from the back end). I have a Clarke engine stand similar to the one in the attached picture with a mounting head as shown in the photo. Whenever I have used it in the past I have attached the engine to the stand using some studs that I have threaded to fit the back of the engine but I have always been extremely wary of their tensile strength. Does anyone on here have a clever means of fixing the engine that is a bit more robust? I have plenty of offcuts of angle iron and
  18. Hello, as the title says, any tips or clues? Engine now completely stripped down........apart from the dowel pins, thankyou, Andrew
  19. Anyone know what was used to make TR 4 cylinder cranks? was it EN 16 or 24 or what I ask because my original crank that I have had for 30 years all wrapped up in oily paper appears to be bent? With the main bearings in both ends and the center main bearingless (ie bearings taken out) the center main on the crank has a 5thou run out on a DTI I want to get it bent straight but that depends on the material it s made of Any one help on the metal of the crank or know abody to straighten it It only has to move 2.5 thou Thanks in advance for any help
  20. Hello All, getting ready to lift the engine out and I wonder if anyone has a photo of the arrangement using the lifting eyes, I have worked out how the front one fits but the rear one looks a little odd, it is the correct one that was supplied but not fitted when I bought the car, cheers, Andrew
  21. I am about to start the re-assembly of my TR3a engine. As part of the work I had the machine shop remove the ally core plugs at each end of the oil gallery so that they could give it a good clean. So my question is, what is the recommended procedure for replacing these items? Do I cut a slot in one end and screw them in as tight as possible with a large screwdriver before removing any outstanding stub with an angle grinder? And what sealant should I use? I have JB weld, Araldite rapid epoxy, Loctite 270, Wellseal and Heldtite. I don't want there to be any possibility of a lea
  22. OK, this is one of those 'hunt the noise' exercises. For a while, I have experienced a random clunk coming from the offside front of the 3A when stopping or pulling away. Not on every occasion my any means, but quite distinct when it happens and worse since my recent tour. I have R&P steering from an known source but no ARB. So, what can I check / remedy in case something has just loosened (rather than worn) before simply handing the car over to the engineers? Many thanks. Miles
  23. Hello, what is the weight of a 4 pot engine, cast head, less ancillaries, thanks you, Andrew
  24. It’s time to get some miles on this thing. Three years, lots of grief,laughs,heart ache,smiles. Many thanks to all those special people for there help you know who you are Right here goes nothing Al
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