Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'electrics'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • TR Register Information
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites


  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL






Cars Owned:

  1. Hi all learned brethren. Please take a look at the pictures. I think you click them to make them bigger! Basically, my steering column started wobbling about from the inside. The outer casing was rock solid as was the shaft lock and where it joins in to the rubber joining section. So it has to be the bushes inside. I got them out and you'll see that they seem to be chewed up??? I have bought 2 new very expensive nylon ones (£40 odd quid). 2 Questions. 1: What causes the chewing up and is it something more sinister? Did I have a cheap bush in there? 2: Wi
  2. Having picked up a copy of Bill Piggott's excellent 'Original Triumph TR' at the Stoneleigh spares day last weekend, I'm feeling all enthusiastic to don my anorak and bring my already quite original 3a even closer to its build spec. One thing I'm considering is to revert it to positive earth. Why would it have been changed to negative in the first place? I always though it was mostly to do with galvanic body corrosion but a quick internet search on the subject just brings even more confusion. Thoughts anyone? What would I need to change? Keith
  3. All My brake lights stopped working this weekend. The fuse is good. Bulbs are good Tail lights work I have checked all the earth (body) connections I can find in the boot and cleaned / vaselined I have the brake light switch out and checked with a test light; it is working However, the switch looks old and feels fragile so I plan to replace it. I plan to buy Lucas or Intermotor, unless the forum suggests otherwise. . . . . suggestions? But . . . where else can I look for a resolution to the 'no brake lights' problem All advice gratefully received
  4. Gents Wanting to wire in some Halogen headlights/relays on my 6. I'd like to use the correct colour coding for the new cable runs. Does anyone know a decent supplier of 17.5 Amp, 2mm sq. 28/0.30 cable in the correct Blue/white and Red/Blue colours?? I really don't want to buy a 50m roll which is all I can find in the Red/Blue! Also not wanting to buy a full loom just to butcher for parts! Thanks!
  5. Hi Guys, I'm planning to fit my TR6 PI with the 123 ignition distributor (number 8898 without vacuum port). As you know, it has 16 pre-memorized curves selectable by a rotary switch. My car configuration is basically stock CP 150bhp, original Lucas injection, fitted with a sport exhaust. By watching the original ignition curve of the lucas 22D distributor on the manual, the most similar curve of the 123 distributor seem to be the number 0 (zero). There is someone with more experience than me that it's using my same configuration? Which curve you have chosen on 123 ignition?
  6. I think I found and tagged all wires in my new loom (TR2 LHD) from Moss. The only thing I think they got wrong, it's the (GN green/brown) wire coming from the flasher that should have been in the LH part of the loom but is now in the RH part, but no big deal. There is one "blind end" that is confusing me in this connection (now at RH front wheel) a GN wire ending in nothing? See link Wiring loom http://www.ijonsson.se/tr2/photos/el/IMG_2446.jpg
  7. All Returned home, just before Christmas, to find that the reason I was getting some strange looks out on the road, was because the indicators were not performing to specification. Problem; N/S indicators working O/S indicators not working Actions to date; - checked the earth (to body) strap in the boot (N/S) - replaced the flasher unit with a Lucas replacement - visually checked as much of the wiring as I can get to - checked each bulb and renewed the front O/S main bulb, which seemed 'flakey' Result; N/S indicators working O/S rear bulb working O/S front bulbs (main
  8. As you will recall, I have been looking (or not) at my dash lights. I still am (not). As a reminder, the lights for the dash, tacho and speedo simultaneously stopped lighting, however, the ammeter fitted with the alternator glows bright. The indicator and ignition lamps also work fine (as does everything else electrical) It is the early 3A push/pull switch. I can see no loose wires. I assumed that rather than all 6 bulbs blowing together, it might be the switch (2H4841), but as the ammeter comes on via the panel light switch, I assumed that it must still work ? Is this
  9. When I come to electrics in my TR2 project, I plan to switch from + to - ground, I know that I'll have to switch leads on Amp gauge, but will the starter still spin the proper direction? OK, I know I could find some starter cables and a battery and test, but for the moment it's easier just asking. /Inge
  10. Hi All Not sure this is a marque specific technical query, so apologies if in the wrong forum. A few of you have been very helpful over the past couple of months answering various questions (overdrive, electrical etc) so thanks for that. The jobs I have undertaken have taken me on a tour of the wiring harness, which appears to be in good condition and original. One of the objectives was to strip out of the car some horrible wiring additions and modifications for various accessories that have been incorporated over the years and to recover the wiring 'properly' - or as best I can as an
  11. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  12. Any one in need of the rubber plug that goes inthe top of the Lucas Screen Jet? Mos Pt No 503786 Buy the Rolls Royce repro it is cheaper than the Jaguar . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLLS-ROYCE-SILVER-CLOUD-1-2-3-AND-BENTLEY-S1-2-3-WASHER-BOTTLE-RUBBER-CAP-/310363704021 I have had a few and can confirm they are pretty good. - Would this be a TR Gold Item? Peter W
  13. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Che
  14. I am fitting my rear valence this afternoon. There is no hole for the number plate light (bumper mounted)wiring. I need to know the position and size please. Regards Mark.
  15. Nothing to do with me, but I noticed a nos CRT motor on the 'bay, and if you have a TR2 or Doretti thus equipped you'll know that they don't turn up too often ! Link - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-LUCAS-CRT-WIPER-MOTOR-AC-ALLARD-AUSTIN-HUMBER-JAGUAR-JOWETT-ROVER-MORRIS-/391612980202?hash=item5b2df3dbea:g:UUEAAOSwcLxYGjap Cheers Alec
  16. A trio of proper quality items recently introduced by my old pal Martin Jay, Dissie Doc . . . . . . and no, I'm not on commission before you ask !! http://www.distributordoctor.com/new_parts_available.html The AC Delco condensers have plagued me in the past, the OE items were never much cop and the subsequent Unipart, CI etc repros worse, these things from DD should work properly as they come from the same guys who make his top notch Lucas condensers. His agent in India seems to be doing an excellent job from what I've seen - not surprisingly, the chaps actually manufacturing Mart
  17. The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to
  18. Last Sunday when out on our local TR group run out the wipers became intermittent in function, eventually stopping altogether. I suspected the switch at the time, and on checking today found that there was no continuity from the central pin to the top (designated 'fast') pin - the 'slow' pin checked out okay and so have re-wired the fast speed to this terminal. Is the switch repairable? I have never taken one of these switches apart (as yet!). I obviously don't wish to make it worse! If neither terminal was working I would certainly look into it further! Cheers Ian
  19. You may recall that the brakes lights on olde smokey 'shiney & best buy of the year' stopped working on the way back from the Silverstone Classic in July. Well, having finally got round to checking whether it was the brake switch, it appears that both rear light bulbs had gone - Moss LED's - been in there 15 months and rarely lit. Looking at the wiring diagram and tracing the green or green/white (ish) cables back to the horns (?), I can find no fuse/s in the line, nor had any other fuses in the car gone (horns working, indicators working front and rear, front light working). S
  20. Greetings folk, can anyone offer some advice regarding my smouldering (standard) Lucas headlamp unit after fitting a new capless pilot lamp? The PL wasn't working so I splashed out 60p on the hopeful possibility of a faulty bulb. When it still refused to glow I cleaned up the terminals under the bonnet and replaced the joint connector block. Bingo, light. But also smoke in the sealed unit when I switched the headlamps on! I checked the new lamp, and it's a 12v 3w capless one. Although I can't make out the specification of the (fully functioning) old lamp, the Moss catalogue seems
  21. Hi Folks, I've been advised to fit a "20a slow blow fuse" in my Revotec electric fan circuit, I've searched the Interweb and can only find glass fuses where I would much prefer the spade type. My question is this, are they manufactured in the spade type format, if so, where to buy? Thanks in advance, Richard.
  22. Hi, Quick question on Ammeter Gauges please, The Lucas one fitted to my 1970 car is marked +/- 30amps and can, on starting go to full deflection and stay there till I tap the glass. I assume therefore that the gauge is not original. I understand an original gauge for my car would not have the number, just C+ & -D. Would that still be rated at 30amps or would it be greater i.e 50 or 60amps. And, if I were to change out the ammeter and replace with a voltmeter, which gauge would be best suited for a CP TR6. Thanks Jim
  23. All My inertia switch gave up the ghost the other day As you can see, the stem is a bit on the defunct side, but, all the other bits look good. If anyone wants the working bits, maybe to build a good one from 2 cream crackered ones, let me know Cost of postage (free if postage works out low enough)
  24. Hi All.   There seems to be quiet a variance in experience and views on the Pertronix electronic ignition system and my TR has been fitted with this unit by the previous owner. It is one of the items that causes me concern in terms of the car's poor running that I'm currently addressing.   Having previously dealt with Pazon here in NZ through my motorcycle business, I was aware of their Energy Booster kit.  This utilises the distributor points as a trigger mechanism only, so because of the low current they don't burn and have a long stable operating life.  Another advan
  25. Hi Oh gurus, I have the replacement switch offered by various suppliers. I have found the quality to be fairly poor. I have had a go at repairing it as it had seized up. When I took it apart I was appalled at the quality especially as they are now retailing at £80. Unfortunately when I put it back together I can only get single speed. i think this might be that I have wired it up incorrectly. It has four contacts at the back numbered 1-4. I have searched the forum but cannot find the wiring diagram. Can anyone please tell me which wire goes on each number. Andy
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.