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Cars Owned:

  1. I had some problems fitting my heater back in behind the dashboard after cleaning it up and repairing the battery box. It was very difficult to lift into place. I had to use a short length of timber and squeezed it in finally. Some months later I discovered that the engine would not switch off when the side and headlights were on. I assumed that the compressed wiring behind the dash was responsible. So I was able to live with that for a while and plan to lift out the instrument panel on a warm day this autumn and check all the connections However on my return from our SDG Autumn run t
  2. I am working on the rear stop and tail lamps. The existing earth wire is only the same diameter as the incoming loom cables. I am planning to increase the size. Will this make any other problems? Thanks Richard & H.
  3. All I have 2 off Osram headlight bulbs, details as in the title above These are of no use to me, but, seeing as how I cannot for the life of me remember having a need for these since my Mini days, I wonder why I still have them! Anyway . . . . .any good to anyone? If so, PM me details and I will post them out, FOC John
  4. The ignition light was staying one. So I thought alternator. (I have one of those that looks like a dynamo but is actually an alternator). I checked all the wiring and nothing was loose. I looked at the fan belt and it looked glazed and worn. So I thought I would start by replacing the belt (It was only 2 years old with about 2000 miles on it) I also had blade split on the cooling fan and I had a replacement so I thought I would fit that too. To get the new belt on, I undid the engine mounts and jacked up the engine - fairly straightforward. I have attached picture
  5. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am usin
  6. Some advice required from the hive-mind please… Last weekend, I had a trouble-free 130 mile round trip in my ’63 TR4. Arriving home, I parked on my drive and went to fetch the garage keys. When I returned, the car wouldn’t start. The red ignition light dimmed when I turned the key but the only other response I could get was a loud clicking sound. I intend to investigate fully at the weekend but am I right to assume it’s probably starter motor related? If so, I imagine it’s going to be an ‘interesting experience’ removing it because I have an original unit squeezed in tightly next to a
  7. NOW SOLD I have for sale one car set of 4 NOS original Triumph bulb holders for the front and rear side marker lamps of TR7/8 cars. Rimmers car these 'Cruise Lights' and their part number is 13H5270 or 13H5270L Both no longer available. Price for 4 bulb holders plus UK postage GB £ 15.00. PM if interested Peter W
  8. Slowly working my way round BUO ('72 TR6) putting her back together got to the back of the ignition switch as far as I can tell I should have 2 Brown/white cables common'd on terminal 1, 2 White cables common'd on terminal 2 and a single White red cable on terminal 3. I don't have a terminal 4 and terminal 5 is for the radio. Can anybody confirm if this is correct please.
  9. Anyone had any experience of a faulty control box causing starting problems?
  10. Hi I'm converting to an alternator and am interested in the views of members on the point of an Ammeter or Voltmeter. Purists need not respond on the blasphemy I have just uttered The only benefits I can think of are that if the alternator fails I could watch my battery die, provided I happen to notice before the lights dim or I come to a standstill. Also I guess if I fit a voltmeter instead I could see the battery condition when I switch on before listening to the starter labouring, or I could check the battery condition the night before a planned trip. Would a clock be more use? Discus
  11. Hi All in my 5 the headlight switch is on the right-hand side of the steering Colom, and the positions are Top=off middle side light bottom side & headlight So, when I got one from a supplier it was Top= side & headlight middle sides and bottom=off Can anyone throw some light on this (pardon the pun) have I ordered the wrong one ?????????? James……………….
  12. UOV has had a nice new braided wiring loom installed, however whats not so nice is the original braided cable 'tails' from the headlights/indicators/horns that connect to it so I was going to re wire these with new braided cables, any body any idea what size cable I need please. as per http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/cables/braided.html
  13. Well it had to happen sooner or later. I've been hit with an electrical gremlin. A few days ago I was driving home. All my gauges were fine. Suddenly my ammeter went into the negative and stayed there. Up and until then the car has been running fine. Today I replaced the alternator and when turned on, the red lamp was on, but dim. I've cleaned up the battery terminals. Cleaned up the earth connection from battery , to body, to engine. Voltage at battery 11.89 v. Voltage at battery, connected and engine on 12.5v Not good I think !! Just got in the car, started her up, put lights on, h
  14. Hi Troops - I'm looking into having a usb connector fitted so the phone can be charged/used as satnav when I haven't got a navigator. Has anyone bought one recently and can recommend, there are several on eBay and not sure which to choose. Any pitfalls? Many Thanks Christine Essex.
  15. Hi Ive had issues with my battery going flat over time, so Ive started leaving it connected to a smart charger when the car is not in use, this seems to be working. However, I noticed today that when the smart charger is connected the bodywork appears to be "live" - resting my hands on the front wing beading makes them tingle! - disconnect the charger and the tingling stops. Is this related to the battery discharging - and whats causing it - assuming its not normal Thanks Stuart
  16. Hi all When I bought my TR6 last year it had a recently fitted generic Lucas WSB 100 12V universal washer pump. This failed shortly (seized) after getting the car. I have since replaced the washer pump twice with similar replacements from different suppliers. In both cases the pump worked OK when fitted but then seized when used again about a month later. The pumps seem to be seizing due to the "rubber" impeller expanding and jamming. My only guess is that this is due to screen wash additive. I currently use generic Halfords or supermarket screen wash. Has anyone else experienced
  17. High folks anyone out there with experience of fitting an HT starter? Courier just delivered new HT starter at 5 pm, magic 5 min job to fit and I can get this rebuilt engine started! 6pm Hum not sure about this and of course supplier and manufacturer shut so can't phone. I've got the correct model for the car Vitesse/GT6 and its fits nicely everything lines up, have the fitting instructions which cover replacing both Pre-Engage and Bendix (Inertia). I'm replacing an Inertia starter. However the original Inertia Starter on the Vitesse is mounted on a 10mm thick spacer that in ef
  18. I had the car electrics checked out by a specialty electrics firm last year & all appeared well with new fuse relays to cater for the cooling fan & fuel pump. As I haven’t driven the car at night I never checked the main beams. Anyway, prior to this years MOT I just checked all the lights & found the main beab doesn’t function. The lights indicating operation on the dash instrumentation are all satis. I’ve checked the beam selector switch & all the fuses. The lights are the original Lucas version & having dismantled them it appears that the filaments are all in place.
  19. Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
  20. I would like to use my original fuse holder. What's the best way to clean the internal contacts. Thinking along the lines of a dip rather than scrapping. Mark
  21. Right, got bored today and have decided to rewire the lights and add relays. got all the correct colour coded wire etc etc But. The question is what do you folks do with the existing loom that runs down from the bulkhead. Do you just cut it somewhere convenient and cap and stow the redundant wires?
  22. cp7535he

    cp or cr

    Anyone know on the CR Tr 6 body build date or chassis number when the change from the CP wiring loom changed to the CR wiring loom ,not on mine ie certainly not in early april 1973 . There are differences in bulb holders for the dash gauges and the ignition switch wiring, to be watched out for when ordering a new loom. robin gwtr
  23. Does anyone know the size and thread of the bolt (screw if that is the correct technical term?) that is fitted through the adjusting sliding link and is screwed into the dynamo front end bracket? I'm fitting an original spec C39PV2 dynamo to the TR2 to replace a later type dynamo. The bolt on this later type is a different size so won't fit the threaded end bracket of the C39PV2. Also, should the bolt have a locking nut fitted to the end that protrudes through the dynamo end bracket? Finally - do you know where I can obtain the required bolt (and nut)? I'm not clear looking at the
  24. Hi thanks for information on the blue-white headlight wiring issue I previously posted . Here is some information to limit frustrations from my saga of rejuvenating electrics rear of the dash board & steering column involving Moss components. Indicator switch part 158966 diligently refitted new switch via steering column and all the stuff involved with that ....unfortunately the component and the batch it has come form has the red - green and white- green wired the wrong way round so indicators work wrong way round. Whilst this is easily corrected Moss were unable to repla
  25. Hi I have had some issues with the electrics on the TR 5 which required the removal of the dash board and disconnecting gauges dials switches steering column etc last October I thought I had diligently labelled all the connection and took photos the mystery I have is the re connection of the steering column lighting switch. I have followed the wiring diagram and am left with a blue and white wire from the switch looking for a double wired blue and white connection to operate the head light flash What am I missing ? as I cannot locate the double wired blue and white to c
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