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Cars Owned:

  1. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  2. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always.
  3. Keith66


    Hi All Looking at making the switch from std bulbs to LED’s and looking for some views and feedback. No issue for the interior and the exterior bulbs like indicators brakes etc, but unsure about headlights. My car currently still has the original type sealed beam units and I know they are not great so I do want to upgrade, but a few choices so I thought I’d ask for some feedback from those who have the diff options fitted. First and simplest would be to upgrade to Halogen units but does it enough improvement. Secondly Xenons, my understanding is that fitting Xenons alt
  4. Hi all Im trying to source some cibie headlights. Looking at past threads 082441 seems to be the right part number but it seems they are no longer available. Ive ordered a couple of times only to find the order cancelled because they cant get hold of them. Ive got them on my TR4 and looking for some for my GT6. Any help appreciated. regards Bob
  5. This topic has been prompted by wiper-brush kits becoming available on eBay for much lower prices than hitherto, £12 as against £25 or more. And I bought a DR2 from 1958 with the classic destroyed commutator, caused by running with worn-out brushes. A few years back I'd have to store a motor like this until a new armature turned up. Both DR2 and DR3A wiper-motors will run to destruction without carbon-brushes. This one was running OK, if a bit squeaky. Then I bought some commutators from the US and could fix them. But after shipping, import cost and VAT these worked out to c
  6. Hi all, went to the garage to start the car and it won't start! It is a 73 PI CR engine with a Luminition system which I fitted 5 years ago and has worked perfectly until now. I turn the ignition on and there is 12v at the coil, I then start churning the starter motor and the voltage at the coil drops to about 9 - 9.5v. The engine does not fire, when I release the ignition switch the engine fires on the release and tries to start???? If it fires successfully the engine runs OK. I do not think there is any spark while the starter is churning but is a bit difficult to see as I have only one
  7. More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated
  8. Hi, Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction to buy a coloured wiring diagram for my TR7 1981 UK car. I have unfortunately tried to use the many websites that advertise TR7 wiring diagrams under google images , but most if not all turn out to be scams looking for payment card details and hidden monthly subscriptions. Very frustrating for your average classic car enthusiast. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in Advance Paul
  9. Hi I tried to start my TR5 which had been stood for a while and found whilst the battery was allowing the Bosch fuel pump to whir when I turned the key there wasn't enough juice in the battery to start the car - no surprises there. However having removed the battery, charged it up etc I then turned the key to find that the fuel pump is silent and clearly not working so the starter motor is clicking away with no fuel coming through. I have checked the fuses, I have checked all the wires connecting to the fuel pump but can't find any obvious issues. Seems very strange when all I have don
  10. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going
  11. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
  12. I am thinking of installing electronic ignition to my '72 UK Dec registered TR6. Looking for any advice on which is the best and the best value for money and tips on fitting. Thanks, Andy
  13. Hi, I've done a forum search and a general google to try and answer the question I'm about to ask but end up going around in circles and getting more confused so I'm hoping there's a straightforward answer. I've got standard rear bulb holders and struggling to get a decent earth. I've run an extra ground cable to each bulb holder but still only some of the lights work consistently. I've read about people soldering an extra tab to the bulb holders, and others using stag bulb holders. My question is, do all stag bulb holders have the extra earth tab fitted as standard? Thanks,
  14. Hi All Some more advice please. My car has not run in a long long time, in reality it probably ran for less than 15 years before being taken off the road. So I’ve got what appears to be an original Lucas distributor. Do I just clean it up stick in new points and a condenser and put it back or get it refurbished by Distributor Doctor (or similar) or exchange it? (any other suggestions welcome) What slightly puzzles me is that if Distributor Doctor refurb it that’s £195 but if Moss (not usually that cheap) supply a refurb one on exchange its £165. I’m te
  15. Hi All Any wiring experts out there. Having a few issues with this bit. It might be my lack of knowledge or me not being able to read a wiring diagram, which is not good when trying to rewire a car, Lol. So I’ve got 6 wires go to the IGN switch, it’s a 72 so its under the steering colum. There are 3 white, 1 white red trace and two brown white trace. Now according to the wiring diagram (advance autowire version 1972 model) there are 4 connections, as per rear of IGN switch with the brown/W to a common connector the 3 white to a common connector and the White red on its own
  16. I have a 45 amp alternator with a voltmeter fitted but have a bit of a worry Most of the time it reads 13.5 volts At 2000 revs With Revotec fan running it drops to just under 13 volts With headlamps (Osram night breakers) on as well it drops to just over 12 volts At idle with everything on it reads just under 12 volts Is this normal? Im in a quandary as we are off to Angouleme very soon and returning via the Italian lakes and Switzerland, so a lot of driving in the Alps. Do I Leave it as it is Buy an 18 ACR alternator (45 amps) from Moss tomorrow Fi
  17. Hi all, I am installing a new loom in my TR4, I have changed to an alternator. I assume I change the old dynamo regulator to a alternator regulator ? also do I need to upgrade the fusebox ? Regards Ron
  18. Hi All Still on going with the electrics and one thing that i didn't do but would be a good idea is bench test my starter motor. Si I stripped it down and cleaned and tidied it up and all looks ok, but i guess i should test it to see if it actaully works. So i'm not 100% sure on how to do that. Clearly i would put a live feed to the top electrical input on the solenoid but i know that won't do much until the White / Red Trace wire from the IGN switch powers and tells the solenoid "GO" So can i use any old live feed for that or does it need to be a specific current to trigge
  19. ronhatch

    Fuse box

    Hi all, just going to install the fuse box but in looks knackered, so going to buy a new one should I take the opportunity to put a bigger capacity unit in for future add ons and if so what size 6 way, 8 way ? Regards Ron
  20. Went for a blast in the TR250 to calm down after after posting about the latest bod problems and the fuse blew when I flashed my headlamps. The flasher, stereo and 12v accessory socket share their own unique fuse and the lighting switch is column mounted so changed the fuse, tested the flasher and the fuse blew. After lots of stripping everything down (what a pig of a job to access the wiring under the colum and remove the switch - thinking of leaving the cover off and use cable ties!) all the wiring appears fine - no breaks or dodgy insulation. By accident I discovered that the o
  21. Hi, Moved on to the interior of a long 74 TR6 restoration project. Got a new wiper/wash switch, the big round one that pushes and turns not a rocker. Trouble is it doesn't come with the fixings, numbered 81 to 85 in the Moss book. Have tried all the usual suppliers, including those who deal in second had parts with no luck. Does anybody know where i can get these or any other suggestion. If not does any body know the thread size and type on the switch as will try and make something. tried lots and nothing seems to fit and have to be very careful due to the soft plastic
  22. Before I begin this post, I am aware that the newer fuse ratings are continuous and not blow. The question therefore is fuse ratings in 'old money'. The TR4/4A workshop manual states that the fuses in the fuse box should be 25A blow (12.5 continuous) but both Rimmers and Moss are selling 35A fuses for both the TR4 and 4A (I am assuming for the sake of this that these fuses are 35A blow). The only fuse that is 35A blow 17.5A continuous in the workshop manual is the horn fuse. Consequently I have been using 25A in the fuse box (with no problems). Usual reason for a fuse to blow is a short to ear
  23. Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
  24. Hi All In my "Fuel pump electrics" post i also asked the question "On a similar (electrical) but unconnected note whats the best way to test my "Highly Professional" installation? lol." "Do i just stick a battery on and see if the lights work, things like the fuel pump feed i guess i can check via a multimeter." Well all i can say is Whoa, let there be light!!, lol. Keith
  25. Hi All So i'm kind of finishing off the installation of my new Autosparks harness on my 72 Pi. Now call me dumb as i didn't think about it when orderring the harness, but its been suggested that the feed to the fuel pump should be a heavier gauge wire and possibly be fed via a relay, to make sure no or less current drop by the time it al reaches the pump and that the wiring does not overheat, or so i understand things. So assuming that is right, has anyone else done it and can someone give me some info on how to do it, what gauge wire to use, what relay to use if thats sensible, an
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