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Found 412 results

  1. Well i have with the topic heading Not a natural with wiring but years of training as an architect mean I can read wiring diagrams And make sense of them. So I upgraded the glow lamps at the front to H4 halogen headlights and set about installing a relay. I understand how they work and duly sourced the blue/ white and blue/red wires comming from the harness and splitting to either front light. Broke into the wiring, fitted the relay neatly on the passenger side behind the headlight on the inner wing and tidied up all the wiring. Connecting the relay feed to the positive supply I looked around and thought that it was relatively easy and neat to route it along the wing across the bulkhead and direct to the positive terminal on the battery. All good so far, relay works, lights are bright, wiring is very neat and orderly ( keeps the architect in me happy) BUT, driving early morning in the country today (to beat te heat), I had the lights on as I usually do on country roads, and noticed the volts were only charging about 11 and a half, lights off, goes up to 13! Have I made a mistake connecting direct to the battery and if so where should I connect it? Graze
  2. As per previous post on headlights I'm no electrical whizz My tail lights work My brake lights work if my lights aren't on If my lights are on, my passenger brake light works, but my driver side one just goes out I've replaced the globes Only one filament on the drivers side lights up - the same one when the brake light goes on and when the taillights are on Any ideas? Graze
  3. Went on the Wensum halloween run last weekend and the wipers on my car decided to develop a mind of their own they started to randomly work of their own accord. I would switch them off and all would be fine until the next time they decided to work. When switching them off I found the switch had to be in the lower position for them to stop, occasionally I was able to stop them with the switch in the top position. I took the switch out and gave it a squirt of good old WD40 put it back in and tried the wipers and found I couldn't switch them off at all. ( i thought well that was a success I should get a job at Lucas ] The switch has four terminals marked 1-4 with a wire on each terminal I took the green and brown wire off terminal no 4 hey presto the wipers worked fine 2 speeds and switched off with switch in top position. My question is should I leave it like this will it be ok or should I buy another switch I think I remember reading somewhere that they are hard to find. Regards John.
  4. I think that one of the best and cheapest anti-theft devices was used during the war. It was compulsory for every car owner to remove the rotor from the distributor. I shall certainly add this method to my existing anti-theft devices when my TR comes back on the road. It may sound a little tedious but not as tedious as trying to find your stolen TR. Every little helps!! Tom.
  5. Ferreting around under the dash this evening, I found the device below attached high on the bulkhead by a single screw, which also held the earth connection for the 12V outlet installed by the PO. It contains a printed circuit board and an eight-pin socket, but no other electrical connection. Any ideas what it might be? Paul
  6. Any idea what these may be for? They're sitting under the driver's side dash of a UK 1974 TR6 CR. As far as I can tell (n00b and not an automotive native) they're not live even though they've been taped off previously.
  7. Hello guys, I'm still playing, in my few spare time, on an ex US, carburetted + air con TR8. I've removed all the air con parts (I'm allergic), and rebuilt a standard TR7 heater with new radiator and all anccilaries to fit under the dashboard. But it's not the problem : I've also modified the cooling fans wiring loom for something far more simple, and now need to find the temperature cut in/out of the sensor in the radiator (a rebuilt standard TR8 unit) : is there here any TR7 V8 or TR8 owner who could help ? Thanks in advance,
  8. I have bought the revington lightweight alternator conversion for my tr4 and I think the wiring etc all makes sense per their instructions. However, I have a couple of questions re the wiring generally. I have read elsewhere that is it a good idea to run an extra heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery (or starter solenoid if the run is shorter which it will be) to ensure that the existing wiring doesn't impeded the charging capacity of the new alternator. The alternator has three terminals - one for the lamp, one to the ignition (IG terminal) and then the output terminal post. If I ran the extra wire presumably this would be an extra wire on the output post. otherwise revington wire this post to the battery via the ammeter. is the extra wire a good idea. I have fitted the extra loom kit from revington already. This is wired from the starter solenoid, via a cut out switch. Presumably this helps the wiring as any lamps, fan etc goes through their new loom wire to the fuse box and draws current independently of the existing wiring that goes via the ammeter to the battery. is my understanding correct and what effect does all of the above have the the ammeter and it's reading? Regards Bob Ps I have fitted relays recently per Roger's suggestion ( see post on tr4/4a forum) and these are wired from the starter solenoid via the ignition cut off switch)
  9. Have a 73 cr which will only run on tickover after a 15 Mile run. If tried to rev it cuts out. Fuel pressure at steady 100psi but does dip when i try to rev it. Recently had it timed at Local garage to reduce pinking. Have found that advancing the timing using the vernier scale to halfway the car will rev clean though seems to pink. Changing coil makes no difference. Recently replaced all Fuel system with prestige set up. Looking for ideas as best approach, already sick of the car as,darent go anywhere without it breaking down. With this apparent timing issue worried about causing damage to engine. It has lumenition electronic ignition and it appears to have the original distributor and i use valvoline additive Cheers Martin
  10. Has anyone converted dash bulbs to LED bulbs. If so what sort of job is it is? Thanks Billy
  11. Hi All I need to adjust my headlamps as they are well out. Fit better bulbs and relays. I found this on the net which seems self explicit http://www.coolbulbs.com/HID-VISUAL-HEADLIGHT-AIMING-PROCEDURE.pdf However i have a question, do you align the headlamps down to the line which is 2 inches lower than the horizontal center line? I ask as i am sure i read somewhere else that you dont, but can find the info , to recheck. Thanks GUY
  12. Not limited to TRs. But I wonder if anyone know much about the differences between these types of systems, and what is the best system (effectiveness v. price)?
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