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Found 6 results

  1. Hi all I found the slotted aluminium pad (item 95 in diagram) between the body and the near-side chassis front side brace had nearly escaped today, so I knocked it back into position and then torqued everything back up. However, as you can see from the second picture, while the aluminium pad is now back in position, the upper rubber pad (item 94) has split and needs replacing. So, my question is, how difficult a job is this? If I undo & remove the screw, is there enough give / flex between the body & the chassis brace for me to easily replace both rubber pads and then re-assembl
  2. That CTM (Colin Matthews) has closed has been revealed elsewhere on the Forum, but since the news may affect any owner of TR2 to TR6, I am posting this news from Neil Revington here (please note, I am NOT advertising Neil's offering, solely providing information!): We have bitten the bullet and are making them here. We have a workshop close by where the operator is super keen to get the process to a point there we supply all new chassis but for the moment we are offering an exchange service. He has had the jigs made and we have delivered 3 chassis already with a 4th in process, and we ha
  3. Hi All You can tell its way to long ago that i stripped down my 6 as i have no idea what this bracket on the chassis is for, or if it for anything as i can't remember taking anything off it. So its a small bracket welded between the unpper and lower sections with two captive nuts, one near the top and one near the bottom. You can see it highlighted in the circle in the attached pic, which is not of my car just a random one i found, but its the same bracket in the same place. So two questions, Whats it for, if anything and do my fuel lines go inside it or outside it? Cheers
  4. Morning folks, Just stripped down a nice straight TR4 chassis which has this damage to the gearbox mounts both sides of the chassis rail...is this a common problem, what causes it? Anyone encountered this before?
  5. Just removed the diff for oil seal renewal, found that the r/h side diff mounting was cracked, without removing the body I was thinking of contacting a mobile welding service to carry out repairs and fit the strengthening bits to the other three mountings, anybody got any recommendations and ball park cost, I lived in North Yorkshire and the car is over a pit so access is fair. Paul
  6. Last night I was reading the Williams restoration book where he says a clear manifestation of hogging is when the chassis ends can be seen below the rear valance from a distance behind the car. Can someone explain how this is possible..... given that on a perfect body and chassis that has been shimmed and fixed properly, if the chassis drops the body should move with it. Shouldn't it? What am i missing? I had the car up on the lift and went through the chassis front to back and it was clean with none of the rust shown in pictures. The T shirt is fresh and clean. Outriggers fine. But the do
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