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  1. I have a 64 TR4 and the brakes have always been a bit "Sticky" that is the car on a flat surface (like my garage) does not freely roll in neutral with the brakes off like my other antique cars. Recently this has gotten worse and the brakes have been sticking slightly on (all 4 wheels) so when I get home from a short ride they are smoking hot! The brakes are slightly on all the time. I have a new master cylinder and I bled the entire system with new DOT3 fluid. The brake pedal is firm but occasionally soft. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  2. Hi all Would appreciate some help identifying a master cylinder - its a Girling with the numbers "875" and what looks like "64675575" cast on its side- photos below ( hopefully!) Any help much appreciated cheers Rich
  3. Hi All This should be a simple thing but it’s gone wrong and I’m puzzled as I do not know what the problem is. Getting an all new brake system up and running. Everything is new, never been used so I filled it with DOT4 and bled the back and front. All seemed ok’ish with the brakes stopping and wheel spun by hand. Until I discovered the 3way at the rear was leaking where it joins the flexible pipe on the pass side. So I had to remove that and renew the copper seal washer. As I didn’t have one it did get left overnight unconnected, but put it all back together today but as I disco
  4. I have posted before about a faulty brake master cylinder I fitted to my car,I have had it replaced with one that had been tested before dispatch and now this one has failed as well. This time while driving the car, Feed back before informed me that there have been problems going back over 2 years ago from a company TRW, this is the make I had fitted on both occasions, I have now fitted a non branded make as I have no other choices left. It was lucky this time I was able to stop with the hand brake, Regards Duncan
  5. Hi All, does any one have any reliable data on the maximum amount of run-out (eccentricity) that a 10" drum can have? I have approx 0.012" (0.3mm) on a drum I have and I think that is causing the vibration I am feeling when braking. I have found some data on a truck brake website that states 0.010" (0.25mm) is the max, but wondered if anyone on the forum had anything better? Thanks in advance, Laurence p.s. I do have a bit of video footage if anyone wants to see the 'swing' on the dial gauge
  6. This winter I installed a brake servo in my TR2 with Lockheed hydraulics. It made the pedal travel much longer before acting, but when the brakes engage it's much more efficient than without servo. Anyone got experience of this? Is it normal that pedal travel is much longer with the servo? I have the same servo in my Midget MK3, and in that car it doesn't need the extra pedal travel before acting, the Midget has disc brakes at the front, can that make the difference or could it simply be a difference in MC piston diameter?
  7. Do these Alfin type brake drums make a noticeable improvement to braking on the road? They certainly look nicer than my rusty old drums. Hope everyone is staying well. Cheers
  8. Having got the old girl up on stands to gives the brakes a once as the level in the reservoir had dropped, and not knowing when the fluid was last changed. A few more gremlins started to turn up. The fluid in the reservoir was quite dark tea coloured so looked as if a change was due however the colour of the brake fluid was much lighter when bleeding, but there appeared to be oil droplets or similar in the fluid as shown in the picture of the bleed pipe. Having only had the car a couple of years I'm wondering what brake fluid had been used. So first question. If I flus
  9. Hi I am new to the blog and have recently restored a 1975 TR6 in Chile. The car works great however I have an issue with the rear brakes, they lock easily and makes it difficult to handle sometimes. Do you think I should install a proportioning valve to get more control on back brakes and it so where can I get such a valve. Many thanks Willie
  10. Re the very good Tr 5 - 6 Toyota brake conversion article on page 32 issue 315 of TR Action by Dennis Hobbs- Re the requirement to make new metal pipes between the hose and caliper - does the Toyota caliper have an imperial fitting or metric ? MARK
  11. Anyone got pictures of a booster servo installation on a TR2 with Lockheed MC and LHD? Might need some help before I hit someones car in the rear ;)
  12. I was prompted by David Ferry's post about brakes to comment on the brakes on my TR3a. They are totally standard albeit I rebuilt the callipers and fitted new cylinders / seals all round when I rebuilt the car. Having just come back from completing the LBL Rally I can confirm that they coped with the Stelvio, Gavia and Penne passes without any drama. No fade just a bit of a squeal developed towards the bottom of the Stelvio on the second time around - since gone. By all means fit dual circuit brakes if you want to remove a single point of failure but the rest of the braking system
  13. Hi Just managed to roll the chassis out of the garage since rolling it in over a year ago. Before and after pics below. Am now running brake and fuel lines. Does anyone have photos of where the brake line from rear comes to the front of the chassis? I'm unclear on where the join to the pipe connected to master cylinder should be. Should it be within the chassis c section (as Moss diagram implies) or bent up into engine bay (which is what I think I can see in the before photo below)? Similarly, does anyone have photos of where fuel and fuel return lines bend up at front and back
  14. When checking on rear brakes I discovered that the new brake cylinder had leaked and soaked the brake shoes . Brake shoes are so expensive as exchange parts, considering shipping from and to Sweden. Maybe someone knows where to buy just the lining and the rivets? I found at least 3 pores in the sealing area of the brake cylinder, compared it with and old saved cylinder and the old one looked better so I installed that one instead of buying a new. The old one has a more complicated design/better design with a separate piston for the handbrake and a spring behind the actual brake piston.
  15. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  16. My front right caliper has started to have less effect. Car pulls to the left under braking and the front left wheel gets hot, right stays cold, after a couple of miles. I assumed either stuck caliper or in serious need of bleeding. I rigged a clear hose from bleed nipple clamped to top of hood, and dropping into a little container. Cracked the nipple and pump the brake, keeping an eye on the hose. All I’m seeing is very fine bubbles. More and more. The more vigorously I pump the pedal the more tiny bubbles come out. To the point it’s nearly foam. I PtFE taped the nipple t
  17. Is replacing the above a big job ? It does not include discs/drum, just the master cylinder/servo and lines. I am having difficulty obtaining accurate quotes for this work as my mechanic is worried that to complete this work it might involve major time work, engine removal or the like. There is no guidance on hours required etc in Haynes. So, if you have completed this task, how long in hours might it take ? Many thanks in advance.
  18. Hi I'm refurbishing the master cylinder on my TR2, once I put the front plate on, the springs don't have enough 'spring' to return the piston when pushed in. The rubber seal at the end of the pushrod by the end plate seems to be the offending item, really, really tight to fit. Is this just a poor fitting repair kit or am I missing something/they are meant to be like that? Both sides are the same I've lubricated with fresh brake fluid etc, and the rest has gone together fine Also the bellow seems to have two retaining rings, I assume this are no longer available so was thinking I coul
  19. I have an ongoing problem with the rear brakes. The drums feel like they are square as you come to a halt. I have had the drums machined, and I have replaced the return springs and the holder springs on the shoes. I have fitted new retaining clips to the slave cylinders and greased them. The steel brake lines to the slave cylinders were replaced when the car was rebuilt. The brake shoes still do not seem to be retracting. I can adjust them with the adjusters so that the drum rotates freely but it seems that the first application of the brakes has them binding again. It seem like the slave cyli
  20. Does anyone know whether Princess 4 pot calipers fit the TR6? I have heard that this was a popular modification when there were still Princesses around (usually in breakers yards!) but I'm not sure what mods are required to make them fit. Any information much appreciated.
  21. A few years ago there was an article in the mag about improving handbrake efficiency by moving the fulcrum point closer to pivot point on the handbrake lever. I seem to remember Triumph recommended the mod for another model - Spitfire?? What location on the lever should the new hole be (closer to pivot point) be drilled? ( Diagram would help!) Is this an effective mod ? MARK
  22. Not sure how many forumites use the TRR main website BST facility, and having read a few comments about it, both positive and negative, I thought I would direct those who don't normally look to check it out, and if anyone wants an original Lockheed Master Cylinder, I have just listed one for sale. It was so much easier doing it via the forum........... Ian
  23. Any disc recommendations for 1109 and 1144 Mintex pads? Standard 209327, Slotted/Drilled, Brand? (Moss, TRW, EBC....) Jochem
  24. I've renewed everything on my brake and clutch systems. New discs, calipers, copper brake pipes and flexible s/s pipes. Which brake fluid should I use? When I fitted 'Coopercraft' four cylinder front brake calipers to my 1965 'E'-type Jaguar I was instructed NOT to use Silicon brake fluid ~ Why??? Tom.
  25. I've only had my car a week, the previous two owners had looked after it well but don't appear to have driven it much, I have all the MOT's and it shows an average of 51.5 miles/year over the last 12 years. Knowing this, I have to expect a few issues as I start to use the car, tonight I have been bitten by one. When I collected the car I noticed that the brakes worked but there was no pedal feel whatsoever, I visited TRGB yesterday and they recommended I fit a new brake master cylinder, I did this today and after bleeding all round 3 times, I had a nice firm pedal, I test drove the car and all
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