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Found 502 results

  1. I am in the process of ordering the paint for my restoration, I have found out that triumph used the code 19 for pre 63 and post 63 cars both being different colours. Pre 63 being creamier. The rover paint range that I am looking at seems to be pre 63 Are their any further codes that will help me obtain the correct colour. Thanks Mark
  2. Morning folks, just doing some overdue body work and replacing front offside inner wing. Having removed the outer wing can anyone tell me if this is the correct way to fit the wing filler piece (850458)? Some of the things I have found have caused me to question some previous work and if this is correct I'm going to have some serious remodeling to do with the new inner wing at the front end to match the filler panel on one side and the headlight panel on the other....
  3. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
  4. Slight water ingress behind gasket where rear valance joins rear wing. Any sealant for these couple of millimeters gap thats gasket and paint friendly? Many Thanks, Malcolm.
  5. Time to venture into the forum. I have just bought a 1968 TR5 which has been slumbering quietly in a garage for the last 32 years and had a rude awakening when it was dragged into the sunlight and onto a trailer to begin its slow restoration on Saturday. I am slowly stripping it down and have been very pleasantly surprised by what I have seen - very little rust. As soon as I have all the brightwork off I want to send it off for re-chroming. So has anybody used Ashford Chroming in Kent? If so what are they like? Does anybody have any other recommendations, ideally closer to Dorset? Looking forward to sharing this project with everybody.
  6. Looking for ideas on how I can fix a problem with the door check strap ear as this has largely snapped off on the drivers side. Whilst there is a small amount I could look to fabricate something off Im not sure what other options if any have been used to solve this problem. It looks like this is a part of the door and not something that can be replaced easily other than by a replacement door
  7. Hello all. The front wings have a spot welded joint at the top where the main body of the wing is attached to the flange for the bolt holes. Should this joint be seam sealed on the inside of the wing or left open to drain naturally? Same question regarding the rear wings although the joint is in a slightly different place. Many thanks foe your help, Sean
  8. I have a chrome boot lid rack for sale it will fit Tr4/4A/250/TR5. It is in very good condition with the the brackets etc ready for fitting. Offers around £100.00 if interested please let me know & I will send you contact details. Cheers Peter Moffatt
  9. Last week my shell finally arrived back from its restoration, and I have to say I am really very pleased with the way it has turned out. It has been painted in solid colour, the original Mallard Green (discovered under all the other paint!), and the finish is first class. Now I just have to make sure the rest of it is up to the same standard. I have posted some pics up on my wordpress blog, it follows the shell through blasting, panel work, paint prep and then the final result. I hope you can take a look and any comments are always gratefully received. It is a long slow process, but I have to just keep going. I would also like to thank the forum and its members for being a great source of help in finding things and general information. The engine will be going to Mark at Jigsaw Racing services next week for a full rebuild and modification / upgrade, without the forum I would not have been able to find him. Thank you! Enjoy the pictures! Guy
  10. Thinking about new windscreen, does anyone know if there is any reason to buy the more expensive (twice the price) "Triplex" screen over the cheap ones offered by Rimmers and Moss?
  11. I'm about to fit the straps to the hood frame and to the body, but can't guess how long the piece between the body and the rearmost arc of the frame should be (screw hole in body to screw hole in frame) what looks about right is 10 in, but do I need to fit windscreen and hood to get it right? Anyone knows?
  12. Good afternoon all! I have now reached the stage in my restoration where the shell is now complete and ready to be sent to the painters. It landed up being a much more thorough job than I had envisaged (don't they all?) but as I want a usable car for the future that is entirely rust free going down this route seemed the only way - other than a new shell but I didn't want to do that, even if it was possible. So here is the link to the latest blog posting, the shell is being collected Monday and then should be there about 4 to 6 weeks. I now have to work very hard on the chassis (now I have it back), so back on the spanners! www.ClassicTR6.wordpress.com I hope you all enjoy reading it. If I may be really very cheeky, and I am sure I am breaking lots of forum rules (this is the only forum I use though), can I ask you to visit my Just Giving fundraising page for the less privileged folk in South Africa. As well as cars I am crazy about bikes and I am racing in the 24 hour off-road Enduro "Dawn to Dusk" to raise funds for them. It's at: https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/touch-africa and anything you can do helps. Enough said about that. Thank you. My car finish date I am aiming for is the Le Mans 24 Hour next year, I have my work cut out! Guy
  13. Hi, In the slow process of restoring a TR6, a couple of years ago had the bonnet dipped and primed. The car is now at the body shop and its been pointed out that there are several large indentations over the bonnet. As it is only primed it is hard to see these with the eye, but when rubbing a hand over it they can be easily felt. I wonder if the dipping has caused the problem as there is no sealant between the strengthening bars and the actual bonnet, leaving a gap, so the bars are not doing anything to the large bonnet area. The body shop has been used by at least one member of this forum in the past. They are reluctant to use filler on the bonnet due to the amount required and the heat from the engine. In an attempt to avoid buying a very expensive new one does anybody have any ideas what could be done the existing. Or does anybody have a v good second hand one for sale. Many Thanks Dave
  14. Looking to purchase lead sticks and solder paste ( nealetin). I did attend Stuart's display at IWE last year but memory doesn't serve me well, should I buy the sticks with the greater tin content, and how much should I need ?. Thinking of ordering 5 sticks and a 250gram tub of paste. Mark
  15. Hi All, I have read that using high flow air couplings gives a significant benefit over standard, particularly for spray painting, and wondered if anyone had any views on this? I currently use PCL Vertex couplings which are standard bore but I am about to start painting my body tub and panels and obviously want to give myself the best chance of getting the best results. I have done a little bit of test painting already, both primer and top coat and to my fairly untrained eye the results are OK. I also use a couple of different size DA sanders which also seem to work fine with standard fittings but am willing to change if high flow is better. I have a 100 litre 3hp compressor which nominally gives out 14.5 cfm and have a devilbiss FLG5 gun with a 1.4 tip for top coat and a cheaper duren 1.8m tip gun for primer. Does anyone have views or advice on standard v high flow? Many thanks, Sean
  16. Folks, A quick question The reinforcing plate (619585) that fits by the t-shirt. Should this go underside (so chassis->spacer->reinforcing plate->floorpan->washer->bolt) or does it go on top of the floor pan? Thanks
  17. I have spent the last few days stripping the paint off my two front wings. I know, this was a silly job to undertake in hot weather like we have had for the last few days - the heat seemed to be dissolving the solvent in the stripper before it had a chance to work. However they are done now and I wanted to share what I have found as it may be of help or interest. I can see from the papers that came with my car that the wings were replaced in August 1985 - purchased from Cox and Buckles for the princely sum of £78 each + VAT. This in itself is interesting given that the car was only built in 1974! They were painted on top of the e-coat primer with cellulose and the e coat is still fairly tough and hard to strip off, however, as I have been removing paint from the undersides I have found quite a bit of rust creeping spider like under the e coat. I'm not sure if this was caused by stone chips which then spread, or if it was there before they were painted, but I now have to try to clean this up with stripper discs and milkstone remover. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks Sean
  18. Just removed, windows intact, originally a top quality hood, zip out rear, seen better days but still usable. Webbing available. Black. Collect only, Chelmsford Essex. PM me if you can put it to use. Bob
  19. Hi, I have recently bought and started restoring a TR2 (Chassis no 6446). Could someone publish a picture of the boot stay and in particular the way it attaches to the rear deck? There are the remains it seems of a bracket but I cannot see how it should fit together. Assuming the part is not in the various boxes of bits I have, are they available? Also the channel which the boot seal on needs repairing/making. I cannot see that any repair sections are available which is fine as I can make them up, but I seem to remember reading that some of the cars channels had rounded corners and some have ninety degree square corners. Can anyone help with which is correct or did I imagine this? A picture attached of what I've taken on! Thanks Steve Fleet, Hampshire
  20. Gents, I have a full kit of aluminium body panels TR3/A never fitted on a car in VG condition. Most are NLA. Prefer selling as a job lot or part thereof. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/1218/TR3A-aluminium-body-panels-set-of-9-pces PM or email if interested. Cheers
  21. I'm looking to get a tonneau cover for my TR6 and wondered if anyone had any experience of or comments about Don Hoods in Erdington just outside Birmingham? Thanks! Chris
  22. There's a bloke on eBay as "wingcommander1952" listing lots of 4A parts at the moment. He does not index his stuff very well and they might be hard to find. He's got a bonnet and a wing that look interesting. You can used Advanced-search to show just one supplier.
  23. Last year I bought a new plastic gearbox cover from Rimmers. It had a greater front circumference than the old fibreglass one and never sealed properly on the firewall. At the back, it had a longer flat section than the old one. This meant that there was insufficient clearance between the cover and the front universal joint. It caused a loud bang every time we went over a bump as the UJ hit the cover. I contacted Rimmers and they said that they had never had this problem before and asked if the car had been modified. The answer is "no". The car has just come back from having liners and pistons replaced to fix a major blow-by problem which pumped 6 litres of oil out of the dipstick hole in 1800 miles during the TSOA National Rally, and I am just about to start re-installing the interior, including the gearbox cover. It looks like I will have to go back to the old fibreglass cover. Has anyone had a similar experience?
  24. I've got the Revington "works" light bar fitted but have the chrome bumper/overriders nicely rechromed and sitting wrapped up in the garage. What is the consensus on the better look for the TR5? "Works" light bar or original chrome bumper? Is the light bar too radical or does it suit the colour/style of this car?
  25. Continuing with my restoration, reached another milestone, painting the body with primer filler but under the wings I'm using POR 15 Bedliner. Anyone got any experience of this kind of "protection"? I thought, it's a very durable paint, so why not!
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