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Found 507 results

  1. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
  2. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted at the top. My engineer had already fitted a Spal electric blow fan, he’d removed the original fan. The electric fan is automatic, only works when needed but there’s a manual override so the fan can be run without the engine running for testing. Worked brilliantly for Angeloume last year but ran out of time to get the gauge to read correctly. It’s a good feeling to have a correctly working gauge after 10 years! Keep safe and well everyone Christine
  3. Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
  4. Hi Everyone, I sincerely hope this finds you all free from the dreaded. Bored in self isolation, one job I want to undertake is removal of the backlight. I know where to find the 7 nuts which attach tot studs in the frame, but how do I access the nuts screwing down on to studs from the bodywork on either end? I attach a shot of the offside with the trim panel removed. I don't appear to have the small filler trim panels on this car. There is a join in the which covering, but it is glued down and part of the whole as it appears to me. Can anyone please show me the way! Apologies for the handwriting!! Very best of health to you all Willie
  5. My TR7 DHC has a black metal strip attached to the sill. I need to remove it. Can you tell me how to remove it, how is it fastened on and what do I need to refit it. Can't find anything on the forum. Jeff
  6. Have now got to the re-assembly stage of my 5 project. The original front bumper on the car is very bent and past straightening - I think. So I was hoping that somebody out there may have a suitable straight candidate for rechroming. All the rest of the bright work on the car has polished up really well so I do not really want to go down the stainless route. If you think that you may be able to help me please let me know. Many thanks, Tim
  7. elclem1


    Hi all does anyone have dimensions of a tr7 bodywork in order to jig a tub? My 7 was put in a ditch by a friend and I need to check it’s still square. A quick check using a tape measure shows it has a bent front end by about 1.5 cm. But need to find a datum to work to. Any suggestions? Cheers Andy
  8. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
  9. Gents, years of bumper-to-bumper driving has taken its toll on the front valance. Now that the car is at the paintshop i'm trying to find a redress because i can't refit the grille properly (see schematic). The sides are ok (where the cups are) but the whole lower section of the grille fools the valance. I miss at least 5 mm to be able to slide the grille in properly. Now trying to find a way to do it. I've tried bending the skirt of the valance to get some clearance but it comes back to shape so it's not the right way. Banging the flat of the valance doesn't work either, all it does is denting it and whacking on a long wooden across the flat doesn't work either as it rebounds. There should be a more structural and definite solution. So how ? Cheers
  10. Hi All Been quite a while since I used the Forum properly I would like your advice: I have a project on the go (as we all probably do), this requires two boot hinges from a Tr4a. Although due to the extra weight and use of gas struts to aid the lifting the originals are not really strong enough. I have created had a drawing created out of solid works and am looking to have some hinges made which are larger and solid stainless steel, but this is a while away. I am Looking to buy some new ones for the short term and but am worried these maybe weaker than the originals. Does anyone know if someone has already made some solid hinges which would be stronger than the originals or could recommend some good quality TR4a boot hinges to get me by Mark Winter
  11. need a good body. This car has been fitted with a Ford engine and GB and the body has been raised to clear the GB arch. Looking at the pics there's something I don't like. Shall I walk away ?
  12. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  13. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  14. The screen frame on my tr6 is a little tatty looking in places, and it’s showing up the rest of the car now! so i’m thinking of repainting the visible satin black paint. thought i would remove the riveted on silver coloured hood attachment plate, remove the tired door window seals, sand, mask, prime carefully and spray using Tough Black questions : the riveted on hood attachment plate, is this just riveted on or should i expect it to be stuck/sealed? which door rubbers should i go for, there seem to be ‘thick’ and ‘thin’ available from moss? any other difficulties with this ‘easy job’ ?? steve
  15. Where is the best place to go for paint? I need enough to respray a bootlid (both sides). Also how much would be required? Now I guess it may need Spectro analysis as well to get it as close as reasonably possible, and I’m not entirely what it is finished in. Its a rather boring Tahiti Blue!
  16. I’m replacing the rear wings on my TR6 this winter, will have the new ones painted off the car and fit with new fittings and non setting mastic. having removed the old wings the panel join areas are pretty sound, but there is some old rust. i’ve wire brushed this down to remove loose material and get back to metal as best i can, ready to apply some rust proof ‘paint’ what should i use ? have had good experiences with both Hamerite smooth and Por15 when restoring motorbikes. i’m looking for gloss or satin black, as none of the rusty areas will be visible , and brush on i think will be easier? Steve
  17. I've been looking to get the bodywork on my 5 tidied up, it had a full restoration back 93 and from that date only has 7,000 odd miles on the clock, she had only done 1,500 miles in the 10 years before I got her in Aug 2017. Very sound underneath with a couple of v small areas of rust spots on the sill. The bonnet has cracks in the filler from the 93 job and virtually all the panels are now showing peeling underneath the paint, I was aware at the time I bought her that it would need a paint job. I'm no expert but several bodywork places have said it was covered up for too long so to do a decent job, back to bear metal. I've been to four local bodywork shops in after doing my research, two have furnished me with estimates, they do everything (removing trim etc.) basically £15,000 and £11,000, the latter is not yet VAT registered hence £2,200 cheaper. The other two firms never got back to me despite repeated communications politely chasing the estimate. Can I call on the experience of the members here for guidance please, can anyone give me a ball park figure of what I would expect to pay? Full body work, keeping same colour, Royal Blue with Surrey top, nothing to do underneath other than the two v small rust pots, and nothing to do under the bonnet. I will need to add additional costing for new seals and refit around the front and rear glass. Thanks in advance, I'm in Essex just in case someone wants to recommend a firm in Dunnet Head, Scotland! Mike
  18. Tim T

    Lead loading

    Am I correct in thinking that somewhere on the forum/website there is a link to a video of Stuart's lead loading seminar? If so could somebody be kind enough to point me in the direction to find it. Many thanks Tim
  19. Whilst stripping the front wing on my 5 back to the metal I exposed a couple of 'ID stamps' which appear to read Spencer Works. Has anybody else come across these ? Who are Spencers? Any info gratefully received as usual. Many thanks, Tim
  20. Hi I've been having my TR stripped, prepared and resprayed and I had an estimate which bears no resemblence to the final charge and I want to know if that's normal for this sort of work as I always expected an estimate to be a good guide to the final price subject to any specific additional work that was required. Basically, I had an estimate for 192 hours for all the work associated with the preparation, respray and refitting the body to chassis, and I took everything off the car in advance so that the body could just be lifted off the chassis at the body shop. I have an additional 103 hours for welding and other activity, most of which I agreed to as the work was progressing, so I'm ok with that also. When the car was almost finished I was told that there was 199 hours extra time taken for paint stripping, prep etc., so more than the original time as extra. Is this normal in this type of project? I also have another 116 hours for items I would have expected to be included in the estimate for prep and paint, such as additional finishing and polishing. Again, does anyone know if it's normal that these type of things are not included in the original estimates, or will this likely just be another error in the estimate? While the bodyshop is now saying that as a goodwill gesture they will not ask me to pay the full additional amount they are still asking for significantly more than the original estimate plus the agreed extras. Is my expectation that an estimate, subject to agreed extras, should be relatively close to the final figure resasonable or is the approach of the body shop in this case normal and expected bahaviour? It's the first time I''ve done a project of this cost with a car so I'd like to check my expectations are reasonable as the bodyshop is obviously telling me they are not. If I'm being naive and should pay I'll accept that, but I don't want to be taken advantage of just because I'm new to this. I maybe should have asked this question before I agreed to have this work done, but I assumed estimates for the car would be similar to other things I have done in the past otherwise there seems little point in having an estimate. Thanks for any input you can give me, or anything you can share from past experiences. Parry
  21. Am looking to install a TR4a top and frame to my TR4. As the B-post fitting of the frame is different, can someone put up a picture of their TR4a in that area? There are two bolts each side which mounts the frame to the B-post, any measurements where both holes are in reference to the post would be ideal. The picture shows the TR4a frame provisionally in place, the bottom hole I used is the same as the bottom used for the TR4 frame. As said not sure if this is anywhere where it should be. Should the top of the bracket be horizontal? Many thanks in advance.
  22. Following recent body repair my painter gave me the small amount of left over paint for touching up chips/scratches etc. He did say this would need activator for areas of any size, so i assume it will be the 2pack nasty stuff. The colour match is a land rover colour mixed by a local factor so not available off the shelf from the usual suspects. I want to do a quick tidy up of the engine bay arround the clutch master cylinder area , can this paint be brushed on and is this activator available to non trade. Or would it be better to try and source a proper touch up paint. I know nothing about all these modern paints so any info much appreciated. thanks Brian
  23. Tim T


    I have just finished removing the underseal from the underside of the floor pans on my 1968 TR5 project and was surprised to see brown paint as in the images. Does this suggest that the panels have been replaced at some time in the past? Many thanks, Tim
  24. Just finished putting in some sill repair sections (non TR) and need to apply a thin skim of filler before finishing. So have some original painted metal, some primed fresh metal, and some weld. I quickly gave it a thin coat of primer after welding to stop initial rust, but now need to fill and finish. Can I apply filler on top of paint & primer or should I get everywhere where filler is to be applied back to bare metal first. NB it will only be a thin skim I guess ranging from about 1-2mm down to a feather edge. Alan
  25. Hi All Looking to the near future I will have a FHC shell ACG36660 with sunroof aperture available free to a good home. I have owned this car since 1989 and for the latter part has been converted and used as a V8. Originally java green, now matt black. It still has it's original sills etc, although they had small local repairs, let in properly, a long while back which have stood the test of time well. I think the well used expression is solid! I feel it is too good to scrap and worth saving. The reason I am looking to move the shell on is that I never liked the sunroof and have now managed to build up second FHC with a solid roof. Also my wife would be delighted if I reduced my vehicle numbers. If interested send me a PM. Regards David
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