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  1. Hi Folks, after last autumns battle with the inner wing where the bonnet hinge fits I now need to paint the area in a top coat. The original finish is a 2K and I would like to replace with the same. I have access to a paint supplier that can do aerosol with pretend 2K. Sadly it is not better than a normal acrylic. I thought I found a place in New Malden that could do 2K aerosols but alas no. However they did sell me a very small spray gun - great salesman. Today I had a flash of brilliance (actually not that bright - apprx 30W) - is it possible to brush paint 2K. T
  2. Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
  3. I am looking for some advice on touching up a small area of paintwork with a rattle can. A while ago I accidentally scraped something along the rear wing of my TR3a and made a small scratch about an inch long and 1/2" wide. It was only shallow so I tried rubbing it down with 1200 wet and dry and using polishing compound but unfortunately although the scratch has now been removed the paint film is now thin enough for the primer underneath to show through as a lighter area. The top coat is BRG over a grey primer. I can get a rattle can of the correct colour paint but not having used
  4. Hi Troops - saw my car at the weekend as had to deliver my battery bracket (thank you JM) and refurbed master cylinders, really thrilled with the work on the bulkhead, since taking over the care of this car over 10 years ago now I was always concerned that the battery would fall through 'the floor' as it were, very much relieved to discover that 'the floor' was sound. He used aluminium oxide sandblasting to do this part of the work. I've now been given a bit of a shopping list to research:- 815836 right and left foot panels, they have corroded along the bottom edge only so talking a
  5. Afternoon gents Well let the fun begin, a couple pics of bare chassis. Any thoughts and has anyone seen anything like the suspension upgrade/downgrade as shown. Al
  6. Hi Troops - wish it would stop raining, not that I can take Betty out for a spin as she is still in pieces, . Have posted the master cylinders off to Past Parts for refurb, look forward to getting them back. After taking the engine and gearbox out for this engine bay refurb it was discovered that she had been in a bad accident early in her life and the repair was very poor, have learnt how to use a 'dolly' and been helping with straightening up bent sections beneath the plenum area until lockdown stopped me. Anyway the LH battery bracket is a poor bodge so was hoping to buy one to mat
  7. Hello, I am looking at sorting some rust areas in the hope that once sorted I can hang up my tools and leave any further work to my son-in-law once I am gone, the attached photos show some rusting between the two sections that make up the inner wing, do I need to find the spot weld and break them to separate the two sections and clean out the rust? or is there an easier way. Unfortunately both inner wings are similarly afflicted. The wing beading has been removed in the photos, cheers, Andrew
  8. Hello, first attempt today with my Christmas present, followed Stuarts tips and a couple I found on YouTube, first attempt, more on the floor than the wing so I clamped a piece of wood underneath to trap the molten lead and I think the results speak for themselves, hopefully it won't fall out, I have the other front wing to sort in exactly the same place! Safe New Year everyone, cheers, Andrew
  9. Am looking to fit the TR4a type chrome pull handles on my 5 but the spire nut fixings appear to be unavailable from Moss etc. Obviously I could just self tap into the door panel through the door card but ideally would like to source something more suitable. Does anybody have a source for suitable spire nuts or have a better fixing solution please. Many thanks, Tim
  10. I am researching the fixings for the hinges in the A post of my 58 3A. The top of the door is standing off the bodywork by 3/8th”. If I cut out a panel in the footwell I could access the captive nuts and cut them off. Then I would need a welder to spot weld new ones further in towards the footwell so that the door would now close flush with the bodywork. Is there anyone out there with a picture of the top hinge fixings inside the front wing cavity. Maybe a body rebuild with the front wings off. The hinge does sit at an angle and looks wrong. But the RHS looks the same and closes well. If you
  11. Just about to fit the stainless steel trim to the rear of the steel hardtop and wondered if there was any advice on the best method to do this. I have the nine clips or could it be secured with clear silicon, non setting sealant, or any combination of the aforementioned. Cheers, Tim
  12. Hi guys. After 18 months my outdoor car cover has perished in the tropical sunshine. It's from the TR shop and stood up to two winters but this hot weather has done for it, the fabric has gone all brittle and the torrential rain on Friday made holes in it !! So I've had a bit of a research and concluded that the Moltex is popular, as is the Stormforce, I also like the look of the classic additions Ultimate cover. Does anyone have experience of long term use of these covers, ie can I expect more than 18 months out of them or should I just buy again from the tr shop? Thanks i
  13. Hi, Can anyone suggest how I can adjust the distance between the engine bay firewall and the mountings for the bonnet hinges? And also, what that distance should be? My TR6 has been in at least 2 front end crunches. As a result, the bonnet is pushed right up against the edge of the engine bay parallel to the windscreen, even though the hinges are bolted as far forward as possible (with widened holes in the hinges to give even more room). It seems that the length of the inner front panels, from firewall to front grille, has been compressed - by almost as much as 1 inch. The car i
  14. HI All, looking in to buying myself a Christmas present and looking at a mig welder. Looked around earlier in the year, but did not progress the purchase, but now looking around again. I'm looking for recommendation on the options around the quality of the welds and ease of use between gas and gasless mig welders. I'm not looking to spend a fortune around £200 at most for a DIY unit. I'll have to use it mostly outside as my garage is too small to do anything inside with the TR4 in there too. Now I know this leans toward gasless as the wind may blow the gas shield away, but is this
  15. Sparkplug

    Glove box

    I'm having this annoying problem opening my glove box. It seems that I have to insert something, a key, or small screw driver to keep the lock pressed in to open it. I have to kind of jam the item in the lock to keep it pressed in, otherwise, it seems like the spring is not strong enough to open the door. The lock works fine, locking, or unlocking. Do you think I need another lock assembly, or the light switch with spring, or both? Has anyone had this problem, or is it just Gremlins? Many years ago it worked fine. (You know how that goes.) George.
  16. My TR7 DHC has a black metal strip attached to the sill. I need to remove it. Can you tell me how to remove it, how is it fastened on and what do I need to refit it. Can't find anything on the forum. Jeff
  17. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
  18. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner
  19. Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted
  20. Hi Everyone, I sincerely hope this finds you all free from the dreaded. Bored in self isolation, one job I want to undertake is removal of the backlight. I know where to find the 7 nuts which attach tot studs in the frame, but how do I access the nuts screwing down on to studs from the bodywork on either end? I attach a shot of the offside with the trim panel removed. I don't appear to have the small filler trim panels on this car. There is a join in the which covering, but it is glued down and part of the whole as it appears to me. Can anyone please show me the way! Apologies for the h
  21. Have now got to the re-assembly stage of my 5 project. The original front bumper on the car is very bent and past straightening - I think. So I was hoping that somebody out there may have a suitable straight candidate for rechroming. All the rest of the bright work on the car has polished up really well so I do not really want to go down the stainless route. If you think that you may be able to help me please let me know. Many thanks, Tim
  22. I have a TR5 with a Surrey top. Looks great but not very practical in my opinion. Would someone kindly advise me of what I will need to convert my car to a rag top. Is a soft top a direct replacement? Are the existing holes for the Surrey the same. Is the header rail the same? I think not but need confirmation. Where should I go for a frame and hood? From what I have read vinyl is the best material to use? Thanks in advance, Graeme.
  23. elclem1


    Hi all does anyone have dimensions of a tr7 bodywork in order to jig a tub? My 7 was put in a ditch by a friend and I need to check it’s still square. A quick check using a tape measure shows it has a bent front end by about 1.5 cm. But need to find a datum to work to. Any suggestions? Cheers Andy
  24. Hi All Been quite a while since I used the Forum properly I would like your advice: I have a project on the go (as we all probably do), this requires two boot hinges from a Tr4a. Although due to the extra weight and use of gas struts to aid the lifting the originals are not really strong enough. I have created had a drawing created out of solid works and am looking to have some hinges made which are larger and solid stainless steel, but this is a while away. I am Looking to buy some new ones for the short term and but am worried these maybe weaker than the originals. D
  25. I recently came across this: I've made hundreds of paper patterns for panel work but this is new to me. This relies on you having a good part to copy BUT it can be the other side of the car. Here you lift the actual 3-D shape from a double curved panel. I've always just worked this in by eye and checked with flat templates on the extreme parts. I don't think this will work on every panel shape. Some of the TR ones are actually pretty flat. But it's an interesting method.
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