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  1. Does anybody have some feedback about Ashford Chroming. They have a professional web site that looks great, but so do many companies. http://www.ashfordchroming.com/ Thanks in Advance Dave
  2. Hello, if anyone fancies having a go and doesn't want to pay the full price I am trying to recoup the many thousands of pounds on the latest project, it includes .5kg stick of lead, over 100 grammes of solder paste and a couple of application brushes, offering it on here before fleabay, I have decanted the solder paste into a small jar so it takes up less space, £12, including postage, less than half price!! Plenty of clips on YouTube and also Stuart's excellent tutorial, only thing I would add is if you are dealing with a hole in the wing clamp a piece of wood to the back! Cheers, Andrew
  3. Hello Troops - I’ve been to visit Betty ‘in hospital’ today. What a ‘rotten’ life she had before we got her. Every week reveals some more ‘gbh’. Poor ‘old girl’. On the bright side her repaired wheel arches look great I will be so glad to get her back, she’s been gone too long. Anyway, more bodged repair work has been discovered to the front valance/inner wing. My engineer is going to repair both but we can’t find a photo that shows what these parts look like where they join and they don’t line up either. Hope this photo shows the area we need a photo of so he can effectively r
  4. pinky

    Door stays

    I baught new door stays as I noticed one of the tangs had broken, what a night mare, no problem fitting them , however they were like butter, just bent when the tang hit the lift/lock bar, the tang filled really easily, so the conclusion is that they have had no heat treatment, The originalls had stanpart stamped on them, I put the broken one on the passenger door and the passenger door on the drivers side I recon I could re-rivet them if any one has old ones that has broken I would like to buy them please Pink
  5. Hello, struggling to locate the backlight seal that goes between the backlight and body, tried the usual suspects and either out of stock or not even listed, thanks in anticipation, Andrew
  6. So..... Back in October last year in the process of transporting the block from my TR3a out of the garage and into the back of my estate car, prior to taking it (the block) to the engineering shop to be worked on, I managed to scrape the rear wing of my TR3a. No problem I thought, I can polish that out. Wrong! By the time I had polished it out there was a pale patch in the BRG paintwork. Not a problem, I thought, when the weather warms up I will blow it over with a touch up can of a suitable colour paint. So I did that last Friday but like an idiot, I only masked the imm
  7. Hi Troops - I forgot to mention these canny fixings, they haven’t come up on a search on here, apparently they were designed to use when building light aircraft in America, not a common hobby in UK!
  8. Hi Troops - visited the old girl on Sunday to view another rusty hole which will delay her home coming yet again. Good news is the footwell repair is coming along and the formers to mould the inner wheel repair sections have been made. Thought I would share some photos. Once my work is complete, I could loan these formers? Christine
  9. Hi Folks, after last autumns battle with the inner wing where the bonnet hinge fits I now need to paint the area in a top coat. The original finish is a 2K and I would like to replace with the same. I have access to a paint supplier that can do aerosol with pretend 2K. Sadly it is not better than a normal acrylic. I thought I found a place in New Malden that could do 2K aerosols but alas no. However they did sell me a very small spray gun - great salesman. Today I had a flash of brilliance (actually not that bright - apprx 30W) - is it possible to brush paint 2K. T
  10. Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
  11. I am looking for some advice on touching up a small area of paintwork with a rattle can. A while ago I accidentally scraped something along the rear wing of my TR3a and made a small scratch about an inch long and 1/2" wide. It was only shallow so I tried rubbing it down with 1200 wet and dry and using polishing compound but unfortunately although the scratch has now been removed the paint film is now thin enough for the primer underneath to show through as a lighter area. The top coat is BRG over a grey primer. I can get a rattle can of the correct colour paint but not having used
  12. Hi Troops - saw my car at the weekend as had to deliver my battery bracket (thank you JM) and refurbed master cylinders, really thrilled with the work on the bulkhead, since taking over the care of this car over 10 years ago now I was always concerned that the battery would fall through 'the floor' as it were, very much relieved to discover that 'the floor' was sound. He used aluminium oxide sandblasting to do this part of the work. I've now been given a bit of a shopping list to research:- 815836 right and left foot panels, they have corroded along the bottom edge only so talking a
  13. Afternoon gents Well let the fun begin, a couple pics of bare chassis. Any thoughts and has anyone seen anything like the suspension upgrade/downgrade as shown. Al
  14. Hi Troops - wish it would stop raining, not that I can take Betty out for a spin as she is still in pieces, . Have posted the master cylinders off to Past Parts for refurb, look forward to getting them back. After taking the engine and gearbox out for this engine bay refurb it was discovered that she had been in a bad accident early in her life and the repair was very poor, have learnt how to use a 'dolly' and been helping with straightening up bent sections beneath the plenum area until lockdown stopped me. Anyway the LH battery bracket is a poor bodge so was hoping to buy one to mat
  15. Hello, I am looking at sorting some rust areas in the hope that once sorted I can hang up my tools and leave any further work to my son-in-law once I am gone, the attached photos show some rusting between the two sections that make up the inner wing, do I need to find the spot weld and break them to separate the two sections and clean out the rust? or is there an easier way. Unfortunately both inner wings are similarly afflicted. The wing beading has been removed in the photos, cheers, Andrew
  16. Hello, first attempt today with my Christmas present, followed Stuarts tips and a couple I found on YouTube, first attempt, more on the floor than the wing so I clamped a piece of wood underneath to trap the molten lead and I think the results speak for themselves, hopefully it won't fall out, I have the other front wing to sort in exactly the same place! Safe New Year everyone, cheers, Andrew
  17. Am looking to fit the TR4a type chrome pull handles on my 5 but the spire nut fixings appear to be unavailable from Moss etc. Obviously I could just self tap into the door panel through the door card but ideally would like to source something more suitable. Does anybody have a source for suitable spire nuts or have a better fixing solution please. Many thanks, Tim
  18. I am researching the fixings for the hinges in the A post of my 58 3A. The top of the door is standing off the bodywork by 3/8th”. If I cut out a panel in the footwell I could access the captive nuts and cut them off. Then I would need a welder to spot weld new ones further in towards the footwell so that the door would now close flush with the bodywork. Is there anyone out there with a picture of the top hinge fixings inside the front wing cavity. Maybe a body rebuild with the front wings off. The hinge does sit at an angle and looks wrong. But the RHS looks the same and closes well. If you
  19. Just about to fit the stainless steel trim to the rear of the steel hardtop and wondered if there was any advice on the best method to do this. I have the nine clips or could it be secured with clear silicon, non setting sealant, or any combination of the aforementioned. Cheers, Tim
  20. Hi guys. After 18 months my outdoor car cover has perished in the tropical sunshine. It's from the TR shop and stood up to two winters but this hot weather has done for it, the fabric has gone all brittle and the torrential rain on Friday made holes in it !! So I've had a bit of a research and concluded that the Moltex is popular, as is the Stormforce, I also like the look of the classic additions Ultimate cover. Does anyone have experience of long term use of these covers, ie can I expect more than 18 months out of them or should I just buy again from the tr shop? Thanks i
  21. Hi, Can anyone suggest how I can adjust the distance between the engine bay firewall and the mountings for the bonnet hinges? And also, what that distance should be? My TR6 has been in at least 2 front end crunches. As a result, the bonnet is pushed right up against the edge of the engine bay parallel to the windscreen, even though the hinges are bolted as far forward as possible (with widened holes in the hinges to give even more room). It seems that the length of the inner front panels, from firewall to front grille, has been compressed - by almost as much as 1 inch. The car i
  22. HI All, looking in to buying myself a Christmas present and looking at a mig welder. Looked around earlier in the year, but did not progress the purchase, but now looking around again. I'm looking for recommendation on the options around the quality of the welds and ease of use between gas and gasless mig welders. I'm not looking to spend a fortune around £200 at most for a DIY unit. I'll have to use it mostly outside as my garage is too small to do anything inside with the TR4 in there too. Now I know this leans toward gasless as the wind may blow the gas shield away, but is this
  23. Sparkplug

    Glove box

    I'm having this annoying problem opening my glove box. It seems that I have to insert something, a key, or small screw driver to keep the lock pressed in to open it. I have to kind of jam the item in the lock to keep it pressed in, otherwise, it seems like the spring is not strong enough to open the door. The lock works fine, locking, or unlocking. Do you think I need another lock assembly, or the light switch with spring, or both? Has anyone had this problem, or is it just Gremlins? Many years ago it worked fine. (You know how that goes.) George.
  24. My TR7 DHC has a black metal strip attached to the sill. I need to remove it. Can you tell me how to remove it, how is it fastened on and what do I need to refit it. Can't find anything on the forum. Jeff
  25. I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK
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