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  1. There is probably no limit to the odd and inexplicable things done to our cars by POs over the past 50 odd years. My example and plea for help, is as follows. A rear spring on my 3A has gone 'flat' causing the front offside to drop by an inch or so. Removal of old and replacement with a new pair is a pretty straightforward exercise. Unless of course a PO has welded the head of the pin supporting the front of each spring to the chassis (see photo below). As a result, the pin cannot be prised away from the spring and out of the tube in the chassis. Neither can the spring be prised off th
  2. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I
  3. Is there an easy way ? As its raining again (why did I take the hard top off !) thought I would have a go at inserting my LED dash bulbs today. Feeling behind the dash all I can feel is wires and holding brackets, no obvious bulb holders ? Internet pics don't seem to show anything? Do you have to take the small gauges apart to change bulbs ? - eeek ? I am assuming that for the central cluster I can undo the wing nuts and pull the panel fwd for access (although I recall there was little spare wire on any gauges to allow much movement). Is it possible to replace the spee
  4. Hi, Mentioned here a couple of weeks ago that my distributor seized up. Was finally able to get the shaft out of the bronze bushing, whilst doing so a number of little bonze pieces fell out. It appears that the top 1/2" of the bushing totally came to pieces. Don't know why this happened but lack of lubrication ( my bad) might be the reason. Yves
  5. I am disassembling the engine on my '58 TR3A and am pondering replacement of the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. What is the criteria for inspection of the sprockets to determine re-use vs. replacement? Thanks in advance for your time. Steve
  6. We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found a
  7. Questions have been asked from Australia about the car in the pictures below. It's being described as a fibre glass bodied TR3, that was towed to race tracks by a TR6. It seems to have a UK Q-reg, which may mean that it's of unknown age, or it's a kit car of some description. I'm aware that there are kit car copies of the TR3 and TR3a being made. If anyone can shed any light about this car or its history, I'll pass it back to the interested party in Australia. Thanks David
  8. Hi All, Not sure what side is up or down on the distributor clamp. Starting to think that this might have been a factor in my seized up distributor. Yves
  9. Hi Can anyone help me understand the water flow around the 4 pot (3a with a heater) I found this video that helps interested in the flow temp and rate ( hot /fast ie nothing technical) to the heater from the back of the block, tap fully open. Through the heater (temp drop fan on fan off?) and returning via stainless pipe to the water pump (bypass part?) is the water pushed out of the head or sucked from the pump ? the heater seems to produce warm air on to left knee when the blower is on. ( but only recently learnt that the air intake flap doesn’t feed t
  10. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to
  11. I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset
  12. I shall soon be recovering my TR3A sidescreens. I shall be fitting a 2mm Perspex front fixed window instead of the Cobex window. As I shan't be able to stitch the vinyl fabric to the Perspex which is the best adhesive to use? Tom.
  13. I'm considering re-pinning the original brass door hinges on the TR2 and a friend two counties away has offered to send me a brand new OS top hinge he had left overfrom a TR3A (post TS60000) rebuild. Slightly different shape and pivot arrangement but the hole patterns seems very close to the earlier cars. Can anyone advise if it would be usable ? Thanks Bob TS60000 Hinge shape.docx
  14. I’ve added electric fuel pump, electric fan, heated seats, cig lighter plug for the Navi, overdrive and it could be I have forgotten something. I don’t remember exactly how I hooked it all up. It didn’t look nice but it all works and I’m glad it’s hidden behind the dash. The car is now negative ground with alternator. I’m planning to open that can of worms and re-do it the way it should be done, with fuse box, fuses with proper values and wire gauge, etc. as necessary. Can anyone suggest a wiring diagram with fuse box, etc. Picture would be appreciated too, of course. Original appea
  15. Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horn
  16. Having sorted out the rear apron I am now looking to fit the rear o/s quarter panel. Once again problems it does not fit and I notice it is a different shape from the panel that was on. The lip that folds round the B post is not deep enough and where the panel mates with the inner quarter panel at the top it is actaully a different shape. The original, perhaps thats the wrong word, I should say the panel taken off is flat where it mates with the inner panel and the top of both panels were seam welded at the very edge. The new panel is shaped with no flat edge and it does not fit flush with the
  17. Here is an interesting beast! Had a fun drive to the east shore with my friend’s “silver bullet”.. Cheers Dan
  18. Hi folks, I’m trying to track down one of these grilles for my TR3a. If you have one you’d like to sell, or know of one for sale, please let me know. Thanks David
  19. Having got my TR3a engine running as smoothly as it has ever done, I now have a significant oil leak from the rear of the engine. Initially, I thought it was coming from the rocker cover but although that was part of the problem it has now been fixed and the oil leak persists. Yesterday, I put the car up on ramps so that I could take a good look underneath and discovered a steady drip fom the bottom of the bellhousing when the engine is running. It's definitely engine oil and stops when I turn the engine off. When I rebuilt the engine, I had the rear of the crank machined to take a
  20. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  21. Has anyone fitted a towing eye to the chassis of a TR3A and if so how? I am going abroad with mine and wondered if this was a good idea in case I need a tow or a winch onto a breakdown truck. Also has anyone got a list of recommended spare to carry. No silly suggestions please!!
  22. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to
  23. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered
  24. Hi, Having some issues with a 3A since the fuel pump gave out last week. I have since sourced a new pump and began work on removing it which as all forums that I had read, took too long with the awkward angle of the right nut! Something I had noticed upon first inspection, but did not realise the significance of until I had dismantled as much of the pump as possible, the rocker arm fulcrum pin has come loose and is to one side and no longer can be pushed back in (or pulled out from the angle). With the pin out to the side, this is now also being caught on the top of (what I think is
  25. I took my TR3a for its MOT today and whilst it passed without any issues, the mechanic pointed out that there was quite a lot of play in the rear hub bearings. They weren't noisy but they had quite a lot of play. It's a while since I touched them but I don't recall it as being a simple job to adjust them. The only way that I can think of doing it will be to remove the half shaft and adjust the shim pack between the brake back plate and the rear axle, which will be a pain as I have to remove the six set screws with their locking tabs etc. Is that correct or is there an easier way?
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