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Found 26 results

  1. For those of you who have used ARP head bolts, have you retorqued them or not? The manufacturer states: "Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs? If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine." My engine builder says I should.
  2. Thought a few techies might be interested in the following pictures to have a guess at cause. As you can see all the exhaust valves stems have a very light white coating. A few clues to help you on your way. All 6 are identical, the plug colours (as much as you can tell with modern fuel) are in the nice mid brown shade. I run permanent AFR logging on both banks of cylinders, they never go lean, apart from at gentle cruise (no load) say 2-2.5K when I allow the AFR's to hover in the 15-16 band. About 1300 miles since last winters light rebuild, new shells, new rings, cleaned and relapped valves, they are stainless. Slight damp black oil on back of inlet valve heads (so a tiny bit of stem leak even with stem seals fitted. Compression test a few weeks ago all were just about even, but about 15psi down on what I expected, Leak down test gave very good results for road engine, but a tad lower than I would have liked hence head coming off for a check and relap. I have never seen valve stems & heads quite that white, normally at season rebuild they have a similar but tan coloured deposit. The only difference being that this engine last ran fast idling for an hour or two a couple of weeks ago whilst taking manifold temperatures. Alan
  3. My car has been with Crown Classics for a few days to sort out the bad running. Just heard back from them, and my worst fears were realised. A new camshaft is required. Everything else was checked recently when a new thrust bearing was fitted, compression is really good and equal. The engine was rebuilt several years ago by the infamous engine builder that many people were using at the time. He has since disappeared from the Triumph scene after many people had problems with his work including camshaft failure. Although I had other serious problems, I thought I had escaped the camshaft problem. I haven't got a full specification ( a newbie in those days and followed personal recommendations that I would get an amazing engine) but I know the head has been skimmed, bigger valves fitted etc, twin 1.75 SU's, Phoenix manifold and exhaust. My problem now is what camshaft to use. I'm considering either standard TR5 cam or Newman ph2 cam. Look forward to hearing your views on the different camshafts. Cheers Nigel
  4. Interesting article on pistons etc http://www.wbclassics.com/tech/tr6/engine/triumph-tr6-cast-piston-comparison
  5. OK, there probably isn't a definitive answer as trawling through the Forum seems to indicate but I'll ask the question anyway. When I get around to putting my engine back together, what CR should I be aiming at? Six pot, 2.5 with a CP camshaft. +20 overbore running EFI. Standard head & exhaust. Standard pump fuel. Road and the occasional trackday use. The answer will be between 9.5:1 and 11:1 but that's quite a range which I'd like to narrow down Jerry
  6. Hi All, I'm new to the Register so I'll just throw my thoughts out there for any kind mbrs who might help. I have a 1980 TR7 with a buick 231 ci v6 engine (3.8L). I'm doing almost all the restoring myself but before I go too far, I thought it may be best to seek out this forum for those of you that have way more experience than me. Most of my questions have to do with available options for stronger or better parts due to the increased performance I have over the stock 4 cyl engine. I'll just throw out a few topics if anyone can make some good suggestions: 1. what low profile hood scoop with air filter can I bolt to a Holley carb, 4bbl? (I can get an adapter if neces) 2. what MacPherson struts to buy for the front end? 3. what rear shocks are best? 4. When I have all this apart, it would probably be wise to replace bushings and bearings right? 5. My nose is a bit crumpled (wife backed truck on it??). What's the best way to fix this or should I just find one fm a wrecker and install it? Thx much in advance. Mike NS, Canada
  7. In the maintenance manual it give a road speed for a given engine speed, not in RPM but ft/min. Something like 2500ft/min piston speed and 85 mph. Is this a recommended max crz. speed. For engine life. If so I better ease of the gas a bit!! Dave
  8. I've been hunting down an odd noise from the TR5 engine and having exhausted the usual suspects pulled the lump and started to strip it down. It seems that number 3 has a crack in the cylinder wall. I need to strip the rest of it but I'm thinking that the block is probably scrap. Particularly odd is that number 4 was significantly down on compression but I can't see an issue, yet number 3 was fine. One of the local group has a 2 litre six pot that might be available - what are the differences between 2 and 2.5 blocks (apart from the crank/conrods)? Alternatives might be getting it sleeved or if anyone has a spare 2.5 flat top block please let me know. Jerry
  9. Hi chaps Does anyone have the ignition timing data for a TR6 CR model. I believe the engine is all standard! It has a Pertronix pick up in place of points. It also has a new crank damper I picked up in the states, and yes I checked the null line agrees with TDC. Currently with the engine idling at circa 800 rpm I have strobed it and set to 11 deg BTDC this changes to about 29 deg at just over 2k rpm. The manual mentions nothing for PI cars except static timing.
  10. Hi all I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get 12 new injector seals for inside injectors? I wish to refit on two engines as the condition of the ones I have are unknown. Thanks in advance. Andy
  11. Hello, I wonder, if there is someone who really knows why Triumph the CP manifolds has changed to CR. What is function of the bulge, in the channel, and the front balance pipe. For the balance pipe, I think it is to flatten the depression peaks caused by the 311399 camshaft. The bulge in the channel, I think is to make sure that the injected fuel, are better mixed. What are you think? Thanks, Rien
  12. I've been reading some of the threads relating to batteries today, as I'm thinking of upgrading mine. There's lots of information on the subject, but I'm still unsure about what is best. I see that "CCA" seems to be one of the most important things, so I was looking at batteries that are good in this respect. I found this one: https://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Blue-Top-Battery-BT-Slim-4.2-P436.html It's the correct size (almost - about 4mm deeper) and correct terminal layout, but it's CCA is 815 A instead of my current 570, and it's 50 Ah instead of the AH (20h) I have. And so I thought it might be a good upgrade. It's pricey, but if it's a good battery I don't mind so much. So my questions are: Is it OK for my TR5? Are there any drawbacks (other then the extra cost) of having a more powerful battery? Darren
  13. I've seen and followed the advice of so many queries on this forum relating to starting difficulties with the PI engine that I thought it worth posting my most recent experience on the subject. After years (yes, years) of apprehension before every cold start, I turned to the only item on the car related to the starting procedure that I had not previously changed - the battery and hey presto, the problem was solved in a trice. To be clear, the battery had been replaced a while ago, but I had paid no particular regard to its performance characteristics, just so long as it was the right size and "looked right" under the bonnet. It was always capable of turning the engine over so never occurred to me that there might be a problem. The moment of realisation arrived at Goodwood's recent 73rd Members Meeting when I went to leave at the end of the day and despite repeated attempts the engine would not start and the battery eventually died. Luckily a friend had a jump start power pack on board which he had recently fully charged. We applied this to the problem and the engine fired first time. I immediately researched the issue and discovered that the jump start in question had a cold start rating of some 500 CCA (cranking amps I believe) - next stop was batteries, and mine turned out to be rated at 265 CCA - not great. It turned the engine over well enough, but did it have enough oomph to drive the fuel pump properly as well ? I plumped for a LUCAS replacement, their top of the range battery is called FUSION, and the one which will fit a TR5 or 6 is the LF096 model. It costs £140 but more importantly has a cold start rating of 760 CCA - bingo, my car now starts every time on the button, it is hard to exaggerate the difference this makes to the whole experience of driving it ! - I know that £140 is quite a lot of money for a battery but in the scheme of things and considering what else I have spent in my attempts to cure the problem it is well worth it. I presume the issue with the PI engine is compounded by the need for the fuel pump to be able to draw sufficient current to provide the necessary fuel pressure to enable the engine to fire. A lesser battery may appear to be spinning the engine well enough but is this at the expense of the fuel pump's requirements - I'm no technical expert, but this explanation seems to make sense to me. Please note that the battery recommended LUCAS LF096 has terminals the wrong way round for a TR (like 95% of today's batteries), but will fit easily enough with the terminals to the rear next to the bulkhead, the battery leads are long enough for this (well, mine were). It is also light (and therefore non original) in colour - easily remedied by a couple of coats of satin black before installation, together with one of those LUCAS battery stickers sold by Moss. Hope this is of some use to somebody. Matthew
  14. Hi Folks Anyone Know or have 6 cyl block open that they could look at. Block just back from shop and I'm in process of deep clean, and yes folks even after a hot chemical wash those oilways are filthy!. Anyway am cleaning the oilways and realise that I don't know how No 3 main journal gets its oil feed, or rather I thought I did in which case I have a real problem, so need a sanity check from someone. The oil gallery is cast down the side of the block, at the position of each main there is a grubscrew/filler plug from which there is a crossways drilling that then intersects a drilling from the main journal and hence oil frows from the gallery to the main via this path, OK what about No 3, on the gallery at that point which is also where the casting for the oil pump/distributor drive is there is the hole that normally takes the oil pressure switch, this is in the exact same orientation as the plugs for 1,2,4 so I expected that there would be a drilling that went across from it through the column for the oil pump shaft and across to intersect with the drilling down from the main journal, I don't seem to have one! or if I shine a torch up there I can see what looks like a depression oposite the the oil switch drilling but I cant even poke a fine wire down it. The drilling from the journal heads in the correct direction to intersect with a drilled passage in that orientation. OK what have I missed, is the No 3 fed differently, or do I have a real blockage problem. Yes I have looked at the oil flow diagram in the manual but that is as clear as mud. I cant see anywhere else that a drilling could be made to intersect the passage from the journal, but I may just be panicking! Alan
  15. All Triumph sixes are fitted with a crankshaft damper, in the form of the pulley. These viscous dampers are, more than a little, mysterious and ill-understood. The online magazine RET (Race Engine Technology) Monitor has published a couple of short articles recently that may be of interest: https://www.highpowermedia.com/RET-Monitor/3850/damping-vibration https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3870/more%20on%20dampers John
  16. Just got my new thrust washers from Scott Helms, beautifully machined, and IMO much better than the ST originals. So if your doing your wear checks and need new..... Highly recommended! Sent an email got a reply within a couple of hours, payed by paypal emailed back next day to say they were ready to be manufactured and arrived a week later. http://www.customthrustwashers.com No association just a very satisfied customer.
  17. Looking to replace the small end bushes on a straight 6, are they a home DIY replacement with the internal diameter being good enough as purchased or do they need to be machined to fit (reamed)? When I inspected I found no.5 had rotated and the oil hole wasn't aligned, could also press out with thumb! Thanks
  18. I am restoring my TR250 and have installed all the electrics, today I fitted the battery to try things out. when I got to the indicators, strange things happening, the only thing that works is the hazards and then only when the indicator switch is on (right and/or left) but no dash warning light (hazard or indicator) and only with the ignition only, when I remove the hazard flasher from circuit, the indicators work right /left (and the warning light) but won't flash? The only thing that's not yet in circuit is the front indicator lights (as I haven't fitted the grill) but I can't see how this would make a difference or cause the issues I'm seeing. Its a new wiring loom (TR5 PI LHD) and every thing seems to be connected correctly and to the wiring diagrams, so Guys and Gals, any ideas please?
  19. I recently had an entire engine re-build at a shop and have spent the last week re-installing the engine into the car. When I tried to start it, it would turn over but not start. I pulled a spark plug and no spark arced to ground. I have 12 volts going into the coil at the wire lead into the + side, but on the coil terminal it goes to 9V. On the negative side, with the terminal lead to the distributor off, I read 9V at the tab. As soon as I put the wire end on the tab, the voltage goes to zero. The positive side has also has a lead to what looks like a ballast resistor, which I grounded to the block. The points, condenser & rotor in the distributor are new, and I carefully gapped the points. I have read about bad-out-of-the-box rotors, so can change that out; I kept the old one that worked. I live in south east Michigan, USA. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
  20. Being just about to build a new engine, I bought some Graphogen. I've used Camlube before on bearings, thinking that the added lithium will protect for the first startup, but graphite would seem theoreticaly at least to be better. The Instructions on the tube say that it may be used on "All working surfaces....especially cylinder walls and piston rings" Really? Won't that promote glazing of the bores? I'll be grateful for views from the Delphic oracle that is this Board. John
  21. No doubt some of the more technically minded on here can advise on how accurate the film is, but it looks pretty impressive to me! Regards Peter
  22. I'm sure someone is bound to feel this topic should be in another section, but this one seemed as appropriate as anywhere to me, and we don't need a major debate on the issue. As some Forumites will be aware, I do occasionally have old clutch covers and plates properly reconditioned. The chaps who do these for me are most reliable, I’ve used them personally since the 1980s, and in serious quantity business wise when I was motor factoring during the ‘90s. They are primarily ‘trade’ suppliers, by no means the cheapest, but then you do get what you pay for. Changing times, the independent factoring and garage trade alike are dwindling, and hence Simon and his chaps are now more easily able to deal direct with individual owners. Need I add, typically blunt ‘trade’ attitude to customers, as opposed to retail smoothie flannel from walletbusters. There is no shortage of new TR clutch component. As ever, some new repro items are better than others. Modern repro kit tends to be made down to a price, and engineered to the necessary minimum, which is fair enough. Competition standard clutches are, in comparison, rather expensive. You can’t have the cake and the halfpenny. At least some TR owners would prefer to have proper old original equipment (OE), Made in England component, reconditioned whilst it is still possible – OE clutch components were over-engineered and can usually be rebuilt, subject to condition of course. I happen to like the principle, somehow it seems more efficient and eco-friendly, and I like dealing with skilled blokes who know their TRaditional job. As a price guide, given that some units require more work than others and Simon always tries to play a straight bat TR2 - TR4 Borg & Beck ‘spring’ clutches and TR4A-TR6 Laycock ‘diaphragm’ clutches cost £85+VAT for the pair, that is reconditioning your old cover and plate in other words. TR4A – TR7 B&B or QH (Quinton Hazell) ‘diaphragm’ clutches cost £70+VAT the pair. Clutches for other 1600-2500cc Triumph models are similar – possibly a few quid less for one of the smaller 4-cylinder cars, a tenner or more extra for the larger V8, Stag or Rover. New bearings can usually be supplied, similar price to TR specialists. Otherwise I usually look to Moss for bearings, reasonable price and a pukka product rather than crapiti. Obviously your old units need to be in a condition decent enough to be rebuilt, as opposed to totally shagged (trade technical term, please note). The clutch components usually look sensible on the outside, but not always as good once they have been dismantled. Even then, sometimes an item will fail under stress testing, that’s life – usually Simon manages to find a reasonable solution ! If you have old surplus covers or plates lurking at the back of the garage, they’re always welcome – yes they get a little bit off your bill assuming they’re good enough to rebuild, and perhaps more to the point it does of course help everyone to have a few units ‘on the shelf’. Clutches can often be uprated to a degree, but that depends on just what clutch unit and what component might be available at the time. Talk to Simon direct on this aspect, it’s a variable equation.. I don’t know what the guarantee service is like, before you ask – in 25 years that situation hasn’t ever arisen. Stuff just works. Turnaround time is very quick. P&P back to you is £10+VAT for one or two pairs, three or more is carriage free. Easiest way to send your old units is by www.interparcel.com – I use their Interparcel Economy service, which is UPS, first class in my experience, or they also offer Hermes as the (slower) budget option. You’ll find Precision Clutch here - http://www.precisionclutch.co.uk and it helps to read the basics before jumping on to the phone. Simon can, by the way, deal with most varieties of clutches clutch ever made – right back to the early days of motoring. He’s nearly as good with brake relinings too, although those are no longer an in-house job. Jolly useful, if like me you occasionally get involved with really obscure old motors of whatever sort. Finally, no, I’m not on commission, unfortunately. I simply like small businesses of the traditional kind that do a decent job for sensible money, I reckon they are worth recommending and supporting. Yes OK, an old fashioned attitude, but that’s just my opinion and you don’t have to agree with it. Cheers Alec
  23. Hi Guys Can anyone tell me where I can get hold of a replacement step down hose which brings the size of the bosch fuel pump down to the size of the fuel line, on my set up it looks like a piece of garden house. Cheers Carl
  24. A bit of a controversial title, but looking for some feedback either positive or negative! Whilst I'm looking at this in respect of a 2.0 Ltr Triumph 6, I think the same issue applies to the 2.5 engine. I'm also talking about triple CD or SU carbs not triple Webber/Delorto's as they would have 6 choke/throttle barrels. My conundrum is that I know that the twin CD150's on my 2.0 are close to their limit viz what the engine now needs, and also the adjustable needle choices available are very limited. So do I look at a better twin carb set up, or look at some triple carb set up. Triple Webbers are out of my budget this year, so one of the options is a triple Stromberg or triple SU set up, as inlet manifolds are available. However looking at the firing order of the 6, I think triple CD's or SU's could be a bad idea. I'm not saying that they may not be better than an under spec twin set and that fitting them might show performance gains, but that there could be issues in setting them up, that means that a better twin carb set up may actually be even better. OK what am I going on about? Most/All triple CD/SU sets ups that I have seen in effect use 3 manifold pairs with an individual carb on 1&2, 3&4 and 5&6. OK now match this up with the firing order 153624, and where S is when a cylinder is actively sucking on the card and D is a dwell. Twin 1 5 3 6 2 4 1-3 S D S D S D 4-6 D S D S D S Triple 1-2 S D D D S D 3-4 D D S D D S 5-6 D S D S D D As we can see on a twin carb setup each carb gets a regular S/D pulse pair, but on a triple set up each carb is running a different pattern. Well actually 1&2 are the same pattern as 5&6 but that isn't regular. So my thinking is that with twin carbs there is a regular pulse pattern on each carb, that they are identical, and if there are any inlet resonance track pulse benefits or negatives it is identical on each cylinder. Now compare that with the triple set up where pulses are all over the shop, and the carbs are seeing irregular demands for air and fuel. My conjecture is that setting up triple constant depression carbs that have irregular and different air flow demand patterns on them could be difficult to say the least. i.e. the air flow through the carbs have different start/stop patterns and I conjecture that this could affect the mixture and possibly even the mixture on two cylinders on the same carb. Of course this could all be utter rubbish and at idle rpm and above the cycle is so rapid that there is no effect at all. So far I haven't found anything on-line that covers this or is particularly authoritative on the differences advantages/disadvantages of going single, twin or triple carbs. What is better, a carb that is just big enough for the job running close to its maximum through put, or a bigger carb running well within its limits? Anyone got any thoughts, suggestions, or can completely debunk my conjecture?
  25. Does anyone know if the new 6 cylinder rod bolts (UKC2598) currently available from the usual suspects are up to scratch? Or have any suggestions for alternatives? I'm in the process of building a 2L version for my Vitesse and though it probably will see the wrong side of 6,500k occasionally, it's strictly a road car so I'll not be hitting that sort of rpm (legally) in any gear above second or holding it for more than a few seconds. I know the original bolts were decent quality and have a couple of sets - both used and with unknown history though they look fine and measure the same length. Would be happy to use new OE quality, but concerned that the current repros may not be as good as my used ones! Thanks Nick
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