[Spare wheel]

Apologies if this subject has been covered previously but what is the correct size tyre to fit the spare wheel well on a 3a; I’ve just fitted a 155/80 tyre to a brand new wire wheel & it doesn’t fit, in fact it’s not even close. Before buying this size tyre I tried a steel wheel with the same size tyre & fitted fine.

thanks

graeme

[Unknown parts]

Thanks all, the hinges on my car are square which is why I didn't think this was a 3a hinge but having looked on line I can see that it does look to be a 3a hinge and presumably of a later design?

I've attached another shot of the black brackets showing a view of the underside; I agree that they do look too long and I cant see where they would fit although I have seen pictures of them previously as a 3a item; bit if a mystery!

Thanks once again, 

Graeme

[Unknown parts]

I'm now finally nearing the end of the restoration of my 61 3a and spent yesterday going through the array of left over bits and pieces and have this hinge, Seat runners and I think 2 dash supports (see black items in photo) which I thought were for a TR4 but I'm not sure this is the case, does anyone have any ideas? 

Thanks

Graeme

[Door lock lever return spring]

I’m about to resemble the door locks on my 613a and have everything that I need except for the return spring. Rimmers have it listed as part number 606974 but it’s unavailable. Does anyone have any ideas where I can get them from or alternatively is there another spring that would do the job; throttle return spring perhaps?

thanks

Graeme

[j type solenoid]

Many thanks for the comments,

 

Unfortunately I dont have time to buy one of the bespoke spanners that Alan has mentioned as I'm hoping to use the car on holiday (heading off at break of dawn Saturday), Does anyone have any ideas how I may be able to fabricate something suitable, perhaps cut a spanner down?

 

Graeme

[j type solenoid]

Evening all, I have a 75 TR6 with an intermittent fault on the overdrive in that from cold it operates fine but after a short while it cuts out of overdrive and is generally non operational for the rest of the drive. I have checked the oil which is fine and I'm planning to change the solenoid as Ive not had to change it in 26 years of ownership. My question is, can I change it from underneath the car or do I have to take the seats and tunnel out and go in from the top.

I've changed the solenoid on my TR3 before but this is a different unit and from what I can gather it screws in and then is locked in place with a 25mm ring spanner?

 

Many thanks

 

Graeme

[Panel light switch]

Interestingly I've just been doing some further reading in Bill Piggotts book "Original Triumph TR2/3/3a" in which he states:

 

a) "Most TR2's, TR3's and early TR3a's had the panel light switch in the centre with the wiper switch at the top, however, when a rheostat dimming panel switch became available at approximately TS4300, the positions were reversed because there would be insufficient room behind the dash for the mechanism of the rheostat mechanism if the switch had still been fitted in the centre"

"The rheostat only appeared on UK market cars post TS-60001 but it was available on US market cars from February 1959"

 

I assume that when Bill states that the switch was "available" this means the rheostat was an option on UK cars from 4300 and became standard fitting from TS6000 and as such,there is no standard arrangement? Even if this is the case it still doesn't explain why my car (being posit 60001) doesn't have a hole big enough unless it was still only an option?

My other query is that there appears to be more room in the centre of the panel than with the top position owing to the ignition and indicator warning lights.

[Panel light switch]

Apologies if this has been addressed in previous posts but can anyone tell me if the panel light switch changed from a push/pull to a rheostat and if so when. I have a 1961 3a (post 6000) and understood that I should be fitting a rheostat switch but the dash itself doesn't have a hole big enough; in fact, I have 2 other spare dashes with the same size of hole. The other issue is that the bezel sold with the new aftermarket rheostat is totally different to the original in that it is very thin and of a smaller diameter.

I spoke to TR Trader yesterday to try and source an original second hand switch and their view was that the switch was a push/pull throughout production.

Many thanks

Graeme

[Gearbox/Overdrive oil leak]

Thanks Tom, I think you're right, I've ordered some new fixing nuts as mine are looking a bit rounded and am planning to drain the box; clean thoroughly with carb cleaner and work the Oil Tyte into the gap. I'm a bit concerned as I'm told there's a bloody great spring behind all of this so I just want to slacken off a bit to allow me to form a good seal.

Graeme

[Gearbox/Overdrive oil leak]

I've got a delivery of Oil Tyte coming this Friday, thanks for the tip Peter

 

Tom, just out of interest, was your leak in the same location and do you think it may be worthwhile slackening off the nuts securing the overdrive to the gearbox in order for me to work the stick into the gap more effectively?

[Gearbox/Overdrive oil leak]

I've got a problem with my 61 3a in that I've got an oil leak that has developed between the back of the gearbox and the overdrive. I should add that I purchased the gearbox and overdrive as a fully refurbished unit from someone that I know 3 to 4 years ago but I've only just got round to installing into the car which is nearing a lengthy restoration. The box and overdrive has been recently tested and all seems fine but soon after I noticed the oil leak which I thought initially was coming from the large brass drain; I purchased the correct spanner and fitted a new washer but still the oil leaked. After lying under the car yesterday for best part of half an hour I could see that in actual fact its coming from the seal directly above the drain which hopefully you can see from the attached photo. This is taken looking towards the back of the car with the overdrive directly in front of you. It may be difficult to see but the oil is collecting on the horizontal joint and then running down the casing to the drain plug. The leak is quite steady and overnight probably equates to an egg cup full of oil and this is when the oil is cold, fresh out of the can. The oil that I'm using is 80W/90 by Motoquip (see attached)

 

I was intending to take the box out and have the gasket replaced but noticed an old posting last night from 2016 started by Martin (Mart O) in which Tom (Fireman 049) suggested using a product called 'Oil Tyte' which is available from Frosts and appears to be a stick that is rubbed into the joint and operates up to 15 PSI (1 Bar). Tom mentioned at the time that its cured his leak but I'm just wondering if anyone have any experience of using this product?

 

Graeme

 

 

[Steering column/Stator tube]

Just by way of an update; I cut the stator tube down as per Robs suggestion but once the short tube attached to horn push is located into the stator tube slot it wouldn't push down into the steering column as its a larger diameter so I had to work away at the outside diameter with a grinder to enable it to slide down the eering column freely. All now finished satisfactorily and in place so another job completed and ticked off the list. Thanks for you help and assistance

Graeme

[Steering column/Stator tube]

Thanks for the explanation Rob, hadn't realised this previously so there's a definite sequence for installation with the olive being the last in the process?

Presumably in previous articles that I've read where the cables have become twisted and tangled within the tube has occurred because the stator tube isn't being held captive by the olive?

[Steering column/Stator tube]

Rob's suggestion seems a good idea, Presumably I could just push the short tube into the slot on the stator tube and keep going until the horn push reaches its final position on the wheel. The stator tube should I assume extend out of the steering box end allowing me to mark and cut accordingly - sounds simple!!

 

just to check, am I correct in assuming that the stator tube is intended to rotate within the steering column?

 

Graeme

[Panel switch]

Great, thanks Viv

[Panel switch]

I'm part way through restoring a 61 3a and am about to install the wiring loom; with regards to the panel switch should this be a push/pull switch or a rheostat?

Thanks

Graeme

[Steering column/Stator tube]

The short section of tube on the reverse of my horn push is approx 16.5cm does anyone know if this is intended for an adjustable or non adjustable steering wheel/column? I ask the question as I thought I saw a previous post suggesting if you are looking to use a horn push from an adjustable steering coumn car on a car that has a two piece non adjustable column/wheel ( which is whatIhave) then it will need to be cut down as it's of a longer length. Hopefully this makes sense!

 

Also, Charlie suggests that the indents on this short tube align with the slot on the stator tube to lock it in place and to stop it from turning; If I do need to cut this down are thereany suggstions on how would I re introduce the indents?

Thanks

Graeme

[Windscreen stanchion gasket]

Thanks all, I was thinking about some thin rubber but having trial fitted the screen last weekend, there's so little room I suspect getting any gasket to stay in place may be a struggle.

I must admit I assumed that there wasn't any form of gasket until I was looking at Rimmers website one day and noticed that there was a gasket for post 6k cars (part number 804511G)

[Windscreen stanchion gasket]

Can anyone suggest an appropriate material fo the gasket between the body & windscreen stanchion?

Thanks

Graeme

[TR2 Brakes master cylinder pushrod clevis pins]

Apologies, it's the 11mm side that is threaded

[TR2 Brakes master cylinder pushrod clevis pins]

Sorry but I'm useless with Imperial, I've got a couple of new spares which I'm pretty sure are for the brake/clutch on my 59 3a; the holes on mine are approx 6mm (threaded) on one side and 11mm on the other. I've also got the Threaded Clevis pin & spring.

PM me if you think they may be of any use to you.

Graeme

[Steering column/Stator tube]

Thanks for the replies, all sorted thankfully; I've just come in from a successful Sunday on the car (mainly underneath fitting the tank and fuel lines) but I also had another crack at the steering column and started by slackening everything off behind the dash and then moved the upper nuts on the steering column support bracket; this allowed me to raise the column enough for everything to line up;

Thanks for the info on the stator tube Rob/Charlie; obvious really, hadn't thought about the seal at the bottom with the olive etc.

Graeme

[Indicator arm]

Does anyone know of any suppliers selling new chrome indicator arms (part of the horn push assembly)? I felt sure that I saw something a few weeks ago on line from one of the suppliers but I cant find it now. Mine is all operational, just pitted and it seems you have to buy the complete assembly or have it re chromed if you want to smarten it up.

Thanks

Graeme

[Steering column/Stator tube]

I'm a bit concerned at the alignment of the steering column on my 61 3a in that it is sitting about 3/4 of an inch below the semi circular hole in the dash, I have completed a previous rebuild of a 1959 car and the column finished much nearer dash itself, probably 2 or 3 mm. Apart from my concern that this may be placing undue strain on the free movement of the column, it also makes the fitting of the threaded tie rod to the facia bracket very difficult as this is now too low?

 

Also, the stator tube has a split on one end, should this go at the top or the bottom of the column?

 

Thanks

Graeme

[vent flap]

Many thanks Peter, much appreciated

 

Graeme