MichaelH
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Posts posted by MichaelH
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The "B" post is different on the 5, the door has different locking mechanism and the wind up mechanism is different .. so is the window
These continued on the 6
as I understand it
MichaelH
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I find that leaving the TR unused allows it time to conjure up something to go wrong. So using it every day keeps it happy and me content
Michael H
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Hi Z320
Would you tell us the origin of your brake mechanism?
I have fitted the Triumph 2000 plates and mechanism which has a a different piston, although the hand brake isn't much better
Michael H
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2 hours ago, Michel Higuet said:
Well no need to sing victory too early when working on a TR
+1 to that
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Great - Thank you
It is always obvious to those that know, but the pictures show it exactly.
Will copy it next time I am at a gearbox!
Everyday is a school day!
MichaelH
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Please indicate where you would cross drill and put in the roll pin
I assume it would be 90'out and to the side?
MichaelH
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TR4 driveshaft failures: I have seen two TR4s roll as a result of Driveshaft failures, both racing cars and both with early driveshafts: the American TR4As with solid axles had better quality haft shafts with collar rather than the stress riser shape of the early cars. One solution (the Americans had their own) was the BPA Driveshaft actually developed for the Aston Martin DB4 Racing cars. Expensive but cheaper than a body work roll over see photos
MichaelH
Lebro managed to get the pictures the right way up see next entry
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It is the exception which proves the rule !
That said I do try to achieve oil tightness with my car
Michael
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A Triumph engine oil tight! I doubt it somehow
Michael
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+1 Engine and box together
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Right: small radius - Will do next time ( I only do it on my G/box)
Very day a school day !
Michael H
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The block in the selectors which gets worn to allow the third gear to reverse can be repaired by taking out the selector and building up with weld and then filling back to square. Does mean you have to really lift, across and back for reverse.
Sort of back to square one!
MichaelH
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+1 for mechanical fuel pump valve leaking back.
Michael H
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If you are going to drill the dash - some do: between the indicator and the ignition warning light is the best place for a low oil pressure warning light
So when you start up, the ignition light goes out when it starts to charge and the oil pressure light goes out when you've got oil pressure. If you get red in front of you its giving you significant info.
Michael H
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Correct. usually there is a manifold gasket between the cylinder head and the manifold then again a gasket between the manifold and the carburettors.
The idea that i was suggesting was to use the rubber tube to find the source of the noise. Like using a stethoscope to listen across areas of the engine to find the hissing noise.
Michael H
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Correct the fan belt (rubber drive belt) only drives the dynamo and water pump- it wont change the drive from the crank to the cam shaft which is a chain behind the metal front of the engine.
I had a similar noise with my engine : I found it by starting the engine then using a rubber hose. One close to my ear I could search across the engine to find the noise
In my case it was leaking inlet manifolds which I solved by replacing the gasket
I hope this helps
Michael H
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Hi Usual suspects
Thanks for your advice particularly my metal folder won't make a sharp enough angle which I had not appreciated. Also the comment that 1mm steel is too thin. All the pressed steel panels are less than 1mm on my metal thickness gauge. You think 1.2MM is the minimum for angle steel Learning everyday!
Certainly will visit my local sheet metal workers for "off cuts" . I have found that the local traders in industrial estates are open for a chat and break to the monotony of work. Come in a TR shows that you kosher and they are willing and happy to help specially for notes!
Michael H
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Thanks Roger /Stewart/Waldi,
I have a sheet of nominal 1mm steel, air saw and a bender and a set of panel bashing tools
and will try other B&Q stores
Just getting started on the shell taking old bits off and trying not to break rusted bolts in captive nuts
So a long way to go
Michael H
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I have warning light for the o/d - in my case in a ready hole just to the right of the steering wheel on the dash
The overdrive wiring comes in two directions to and from the relay to power the O/D . I simply used the power out of the relay to the O/D (solenoid) which should be yellow and purple.
At the gearbox cover where it has a bullet connection I use a double connector and add the wire to the light which is earthed
So Power to the solenoid also lights the dash light.
Hope this helps
Michael H
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Starting to repair a body shell
Stuart mentioned that B&Q do thin steel angle which can be a short cut to repairing inner wings
Went to B&Q and found the thin angle steel 25mmx25mmx1.15 mm at 1 meter lengths.. but it was perforated with oblong holes which doesn't fit the bill
Repairing the body shell with that would suggest that I had recycled a shelving unit!
Any ideas where 1mm angle steel is available now? Internet search suggests that angle steel starts at 3mm thick
May be the right words to trigger the search
As usual I appreciate the forum mass knowledge
Michael H
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Not really there isn't a refill plug in the O/D.
It shares oil with the gearbox, so fill the passenger side plug on the GB- let it flow into the o/d and check the levels
Michael H
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Moss do a silicone gasket one for the standard cover and one for the aluminium type rocker cover which I have
Stick the silicone gasket to the cover with evostick and then coat the bottom with plumbers silicone and tighten it down
I seals well , doesn't stretch like the cork ones and is easy to take off and replace with a further lick of the silicone
cost £23 and I have only needed one since I bought it
Michael H
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You are both correct, in doubting my building skills and your diagnosis
I had a loose valve which caused problems so reverted to an old pump which had a gasket and a retaining metal piece held in by screws to hold the valves in place which in practice did not seal.
In the end I reverted to the loose valve and used a pointed drift to deform the surrounding metal to hold the valves in place and seal the job
It seems to be working and delivers the fuel as needed for my driving
I seem to have a knack of finding the longest way round to solutions, but hey ho: such is life!
Michael H
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Just one paper gasket
Wheel arch
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I made my own stating with a cardboard to get a model, then made the liners out of stiff plastic I bought locally then riveted the liners to the wheel arch top, front and back
It means holes in the wheel arch which I know some people are cautious about.
Michael H