John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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A bit of pitting won't matter. It will probably only last another 60 years. If the pitting causes the worm to catch then probably best to replace it. There should be a few around noting the number of cars converted to r&p.
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I did exactly that with my long door TR2, with the exhaust and cooling system fully connected.
The only thing I can think of is that if you have a new camshaft it will need running in. Doing that could be a problem with overheating and, at the least, it will be tedious holding the throttle on for 20-30 minutes.
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On 8/22/2022 at 3:13 PM, 2long said:
A nice stretch of Waikiki that is facing erosion from rising sea levels.
Dan
Lovely car.
The beach erosion must be a Hawaii phenomenon. Sydney sea levels are little changed with the slow rise in maximum levels over the past 100 years slowing down over the past 20 years.
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My PI TR6 with all new suspension bushes and rebuilt steering rack drives and handles superbly. But not as good as an Elan.
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12 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Any one thinking of fitting an original heater I have one for sale at £25.00 plus postage.
The matrix has a weep like Hamish’s so is not fully water tight. Some one with a soldering iron could fix it.
From experience they are not economically repairable. The corrosion will have eaten out much more than one area.
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I have bought a new wiring loom for the TR3 and spent an hour or so labelling all the wires.
The manual lists a Dark Green wire. I can't see it in the wiring diagram, nor can I see a dark green wire in the loom itself. Any ideas on where the dark green wire goes? -
Thank you all for the advice. As it doesn't appear to be an engine problem, there are no nasty noises while the gauge rises, I think I'll leave it be to avoid creating bigger problems.
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22 hours ago, RobTR3 said:
John
I had a similar issue with my TR3 for some time after I bought it. The pressure would rise very slowly after start up and it would take quite a few minutes of running before it recorded a decent pressure i.e. 50 psi + at low rev and 70psi at 2000rpm. I wasn't particularly worried about it as it was ok when fully warmed up @ 70psi.
However , I did notice a slight weep/oil spray around the lock nut for the adjusting screw on the filter head. I tightened this up without altering the position of the adjusting screw and this appears to have solved the issue! I get 50+psi on cold start up straight away, and as before 70psi when fully warm. Might be worth you checking yours for tightness.
I have a full flow Purolator with the standard filter element.
Rob
No obvious leaks but I will check tomorrow in case I missed it.
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Both my TR2s oil pressure rises rapidly after start. Hot running pressure in both is 70psi or a bit above and 30 at hot idle. They have original bypass oil filters.
The TR3 I've just acquired takes quite a few seconds after start for the oil pressure to rise and it then rises slowly. It also has a hot running pressure at 70psi and 30 at hot idle. This car has a spin on filter conversion.
My TR6 also has a spin on filter and its oil pressure rises very quickly after start, faster than the TR2s.
Any ideas why the TR3 oil pressure takes its time getting up?
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I fitted a T7 design heater to my daily driver TR2 and it works well. The only caveat is that my car runs cool in cold weather at 150degF and the heating is consequently a bit on the low side. I have a manually operated electric engine cooling fan and if I let the engine get up to 185 at idle the heater puts out a good toasty temperature. A new higher temp thermostat would solve the heating but at the downside of coping with our summer heat (As is I don't need to use the fan very often but if the engine ran at 185 I'd be putting the fan on at every lights).
Installation was straighforward. I bought hoses with the 90 deg bends (TR4?? from Moss) as recommended by Stuart.
I made a couple of aluminium pieces to attach the heater to the dashboard supports. I attached the heater to the pieces I made but didn't bother drilling holes to attach the pieces I made to the dashboard supports, I cable tied the pieces in place.
The original heater switch works very well with the T7.
For a total cost of about $300 Aus I have a satisfactory heater for our conditions. In cooler conditions with a hotter engine thermostat the T7 would be very good.
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17 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:
Very happy to stay with points. At least you can investigate problems which I guess is not so with electronic.
We do have a known source of good parts with the DD.
Keep the points and condensor in a zip lock bag in the boot. The benefits of electronic ignition are so great that they have overpowered my desire to keep things original.
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13 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:
Suite et fin....hopefully.
Condenser from the Distributor Doctor fitted. All seems OK now !
Lovely run out this morning to a monthly meeting. 28°c so much cooler. More higher temps to come again. Under the trees in the garden now about to deal with a bottle of chilled rosé.
The mediocre quality of condensors (and rotors) is why I have and recommend electronic ignition to our members.
I went for 40 years with British cars and my TR2 specifically not knowing what a condensor was. It failed about 7 years ago and since then I have been through 6. Only my concours standard TR2 has points now.
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Thank you all for the advice. I am chasing up cellulose in Australia.
I stand corrected on the car's paint. Lebro is right the car has been repainted. I have just got off the phone with the previous owner and he tells me that he did have the car repainted in about 1965 when he took the race numbers off the car after several years. The numbers took the original paint off when removed. He didn't intentionally mislead me; he was telling me the story about the paint numbers and didn't complete the story before we moved on to other matters.
That solves the issue. I'm not replacing the original finish so a full repaint is the best option.
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Don't bother cleaning the plugs. Put new or known good 2nd hand ones in. Plugs soaked in petrol are often useless, in diesel can only be worse.
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11 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Looks like it's had a rather poor re-spray in it history, but it's got great potential. a little newer than mine (53 cars to be exact) TS9551 O
Bob
The car hasn't been painted except for the rear guard with the paint coming off in sheets. It had a minor bingle at a club event about 25 years ago. The hardtop is an original but was acquired in the 70s and has been painted in 2 pack. The boot isn't the original and is also in 2 pack. The original boot came with the car and is in my garage.
The rest of the body is the original paint. Any guidance on the best method to paint it is very much welcomed.
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For my sins I have acquired a special TR3. A TR Register member has owned the car for 64 years, he bought it when it was 2 years old in 1958. It is an Australian CKD car, TS9602O with 49,600 miles from new. It has the original interior in very good condition (just dirty), carpets and has never been painted, let alone restored. I understand the engine has never been out.
In years long past it was a multiple concours winner with the Triumph Sports Owners Association. The car was raced extensively, dragged, hill climbed etc in the 60s. At one stage it had a Judson supercharger but is back to being pretty stock now. It has only done about 1,000 miles in the last decade but has been well maintained and drives very well c onsidering. So far it is only the steering box and the wiring loom (the original one is in dire need of replacement) that need work.
The body has lots of patina. Unfortunately, it isn't good patina. The paint is badly cracked and peeling off in sheets on some panels. The metal is exposed on the bonnet, apron, both front guards and left rear guard. There is no rust anywhere. I don't think it has been wet in 30 or more years.
A repaint is necessary. I need to find the best way to achieve the finish I'm after which is a 'not too shiny acrylic look' as possible.
I am the new custodian of a pretty unique TR3. It isn't for sale, I'll be driving it well into the future.
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Got back last night from a 4 day tour through western NSW in my daily driver TR2. Great fun with a dozen TRs.
Just took my long door TR2 for a drive over the Harbour Bridge. Also great fun.
Starting work on the TR3 I have just acquired. More fun!
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The same oil is recommended for my TR2 trunnions. I've been using modern greases for 39 years and about 150,000 miles. Still on the same trunnions and they are in good nick.
I tend to grease them every 3- 6 months.
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Not in this instance as it has been done very recently, but if the brake fluid isn't changed regularly the very small hole can block with debris in the fluid.
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Most of us here use BP 98. A rule of thumb as a starting point is to have the ignition about 8-10 deg advanced on the crank pulley mark. Depending on the engine adjust it to just ping, then back it off a few degrees.
We are currently on a 4-day tour through western NSW, I'm in my daily driver TR2. I'm getting 30mpg which I'm happy with. I prefer it a bit rich on long hight speed runs.
I'm yet to get the car with the poor consumption out to see how it goes.
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We have the opposite problem. Coldest and wettest Sydney winter for a very long time. It has been very cool here, the other day it was a maximum of 9 or 10 deg C, feels like 3 according to the weather bureau. Brrrrr.
Yesterday I took my daily driver TR2 for a coffee morning with TR friends about 60kms away. Rained the whole way there and back until a few kms from home. We were the only ones silly enough to bring a TR. I did get to make improvements to the cars water proofing, at the front of the sidescreens.
Next week a dozen or so sidescreens are off for a Christmas in July tour through western NSW. It will be chilly out there and probably wet.
So enjoy your sunshine while it lasts.
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On 7/19/2022 at 8:11 PM, Ian Vincent said:
If you have a strobe, what is the ignition advance when the engine is ticking over at 900 rpm?
I have just got my strobe back from a mate and yes, timing could have been an issue. It was set at about 3-4 deg advanced at idle. I have doubled that to about 8-10 deg advanced, similar to my other car. The engine idles better and when the rain stops I'll give it a test drive and adjust from here.
I thought it was set correctly but I must have cocked it up somewhere along the line.
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On 7/19/2022 at 7:43 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Might be a red herring.
What tappet clearances are you using?
The cam in my 3 A requires 0.018” inlet and 0.020” exhaust. This is very different to the standard and many other sporty cams. Would incorrect tappet clearances affect fuelling? We all know about the possible clatter of course.Yes, a good point. I have them set at .015". There isn't any significant tappet noise and she performs well.
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On 7/19/2022 at 7:26 PM, Bfg said:
^ I was just writing in reply much the same, you posted first.
"I would have thought that one needs to identify the camshaft first. On a bench a dial-gauge would be used to measure a cam's lift and its ramps, and that would be in reference to tdc.
With the engine together and in the car I would have thought a dial gauge down onto #1 cam follower would achieve the same. From that data you may be able to identify its spec., and then inquire as to the correct timing "
However, if the engine is performing that willingly and spinning at 5000 rpm without bending a valve, nor spitting back through the carbs or inciting explosion of un-burnt fuel in the exhaust - I would doubt if its timing might also be the root cause of that much more fuel consumption.
Pete
That is also my view on cam timing. If it was out enough to impact on fuel consumption there would be other symptoms as you describe.
Fan belts
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
If the belt is too tight I undo the rear generator mounting bolt and loosen the front two. I manoeuvre the generator to get the belt over the pulley and replace the rear mounting bolt and tighten the front two. Problem solved.