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John McCormack

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Everything posted by John McCormack

  1. This might seem too simple but I was taught to use a very fine knife blade to act as a slight wedge between the head and the block. I tap it in lightly working my way around the head. Each rotation around the head I tap it in a little bit further. Eventually it breaks the seal with the block and the head studs and off comes the head. Last time I did it it took about 30 minutes, maybe 10 times around the head.
  2. I've never had a fuel injection problem. Coils, rotor buttons, condensors and a few other things, but never injection.
  3. Bleed it and see what happens in the future. A blocked injector doesn't necessarily indicate a full overhaul of the fuel system. Repeated problems might but not one or two.
  4. A mobile phone and credit card tool kit is what I hear from the people who borrow my spares on club events. In Australia I encourage members to carry the common break down items because help might be a long way away. You might be waiting a long long time for help to do that 3 minute fix. And you might get towed to the nearest mechanic but without spares who is going to fix the car. On our rally around Tasmania in 2017 I covered 4,500kms, the cars from Queensland another 1500kms or so. 6 cars were kept going using my spares, including mine for a condensor. Most issues are ignitio
  5. Yep. I have two TR2s which I tested with the same gauge. The other car was 145-150 all the same. Both engines are 87mm bores, one with a TR4 head (the higher compression engine) and the other lower compression with the low port head.
  6. In the 70s and very early 80s sidescreen parts just weren't available here in Australia. I drove without a starter motor in my TR2 for 18 months, knew every petrol station with a slope to clutch start. I had aero screens for 10 years as new windscreens didn't exist. We are blessed today with every part available at a reasonable price. Most of us are also much older and have more financial resources. I agree, we need to be a bit understanding of some of the bodge repairs we discover.
  7. Normal thrust washers will take up the slack. Best to have the float at the minimum, gives you more wear before it gets out of limits.
  8. Quite a few down under from the number converted to r&p.
  9. Having driven a few CR and CP cars I would say the difference in performance is more than marginal. Yes the CP 150bhp SAE is nearer 140 bhp DIN. However this is still 15 more than the CR, or a bit more than 10%. The CP torque is also more than the CR. Each CP car I have driven had noticeably more get up and go than the CR cars. I've driven 3-4 of each and taking into account different condition, final drive ratios and state of tune, the CP has better performance. I also drove a couple of ex US cars with Strombergs. These TR6s were noticeably lower in performance and not much, if
  10. I've watched Pete Cox put the mainshaft into the centre bearing on his video and applied the Buckeye and other guides recommendations. I am having no success getting my mainshaft into the bearing. I can get it started but no amount of gentle persuasion will get it all the way home. Pete just holds the shaft while he taps the bearing home and it all fits together easily. I'm obviously doing something wrong. Has anybody any further techniques?
  11. I picked up the laygear today and it has the uprated roller bearings in it already. I have a fully hardened layshaft so will go with this setup. While the double roller bearing is a common upgrade here I'm told there have been cases of the laygear itself failing where it has been bored out to take the 2nd bearing. My car isn't raced or driven overly hard, spirited but not stupidly. As the combination I have is a major improvement on the original I'm comfortable with it. Now I have the good laygear the float is down to 7-8 thou (it was 14 thou with the old worn out laygear) which
  12. Thanks Bruce. I bought a hardened shaft from our local Triumph man. We are fortunate in that he is Triumph through and through having done his apprenticeship with the Standard Triumph industry in the 60s. He is a key member of the largest Triumph club (Triumph Sports Owners Association) and has a reputation to uphold. He doesn't do rubbish. These shafts are hardened through, not just case hardened. I have found a good laygear from another local Triumph man which is already fitted with the caged roller bearings. Looking good until the next challenge appears.
  13. Thanks for that. I would have expected the tenax or lift the dot peg holes would have been pre drilled. They built a 100 or so CKD TR3s here which were pretty well made from the ones I've seen.
  14. From that description I doubt it would be a 1958 CKD car. It is probably a bitsa car made from wrecks. The very early TR2 scuttle with the pegs under the windscreen are very rare, only used on the first 1200 or so TR2s. I had to research this when restoring my long door car as Jon Skinner sent me the early tonneau as his records were incorrect.
  15. Thanks gents. I've finished the end float tolerances and all are within spec, some near the extremes but still OK as Stuart advised above. I've got the Buckeye and a couple of other documents next to me while I do the box but they are always written with the idea the reader has some knowledge. Not being familiar with the process it therefore takes a bit of trial and effort to figure out what is meant. I'm getting there. I've this morning been told my lay gear is beyond repair. I should be able to buy a good 2nd hand one locally. I thought about going to the uprated lay gear with
  16. Thanks Bruce. We have plenty of excellent gearbox people here including specialists on TR boxes. I'm slowly working through each issue as I come to it and am seeking advice from Australian specialists and Register members to get a broad range of views rather than rely on any one individual. I know Stuart will provide very sound advice, as will a few others on here.
  17. I acquired a Triumph 2500 gearbox with J type overdrive that I am rebuilding mainly to learn about gearboxes and also to have a rebuilt box for my TR6. Or maybe for my daily driver TR2 if or when it needs a new box. This is the first time I've done a gearbox so will be greatly appreciative of advice from those with expertise. I have acquired most of the bits I need and have started reassembly. 1st question. The end float for 3rd and 2nd gear is supposed to be .004 to .008". Mine both measure at the lower end of this range, the .004 feeler slides in easily and the .005 won't go i
  18. When the engine is hot the oil pressure should not be enough to cause the pressure valve to open. Oil pressure will be a function of pump output and the wastage in the engine. I fitted a new oil pump a few months ago. Before the new pump oil pressure was 65-75 hot above 2000rpm and 25-30 at idle. It is now 30-35 at idle and 75 psi above 2000rpm. When cold the oil pressure is about 80 which must be the valve opening point as it doesn't vary much above about 1000rpm. This oil pressure might seem a bit high but not much, I suspect the gauge reads 5 psi high.
  19. Vegemite is a critical food. The most important food group for Australians. On holiday in 2018 in Rome I got the craving, I must have Vegemite on toast for breakfast. I must. Google it. A shop a couple of kms away say they have it. My wife and I walk over and there it was, a very small jar of Vegemite. About $4 in Australia, about 2.4 euro. The sticker said 8 euro. Breakfast the next day was fantastic. Worth every euro!
  20. Mate, I feel for you. I've done a couple of body off restos on TR2s, the TR5 would be a another level of work. Hopefully it can be straightened in situ.
  21. I sincerely hope that they are economically repairable by your insurance. A very sad and distressing experience.
  22. Have you got a four wheel wheel alignment. All the mods might have been done to get the alignment right. I use at least 30 psi in modern tyres. The thin sidewalls flex if the pressure is too low. Ask a tyre centre and they will inflate them to 36 psi. I wouldn't change anything until you have the alignment measurements and try higher tyre pressures.
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