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John McCormack

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Posts posted by John McCormack

  1. 11 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

    Too much leverage being transmitted through the top wishbones causing the top fulcrum to flex the top of the suspension pillar, bigger tyre or wider wheel syndrome ?

    Mick Richards

    Looking at the cracks I think they have been there for a long time. They aren't new and the last time the car was driven in the wet would have been 9 months ago.

    The shocks have only been on a short while, maybe a year. They aren't set overly hard, maybe 60% hardness. The car is a survivor car with about 60-80,000 miles total but has had the diff mounts reinforced due to cracking.

    When I bought the car it hadn't been used more than 5000kms in 20 years but did have large 225/15 tyres. Previous owners may have used wide tyres as well.

    I will get this repaired and monitor it. Luckily it was found before it collapsed and should be a 5-6 hour repair. 

  2. On 2/7/2019 at 9:16 AM, Fearlessfozz said:

    Thanks for replies, I have J Type overdrive and also bought a spanner so I’ll give it a go. 

    Thanks again 

    When I did mine I couldn't for the life of me get the solenoid undone, with a proper spanner.

    I had a mate in the garage and asked him to try. He got it in a minute or two. 

    It can be stuck so keep persevering.

  3. Here is a not very clear photo of the cracking on my lh suspension pillar. There is also one small hairline crack on the rh one.

    It will go to a workshop to remove the shocks and top wishbone to repair both sides.

    The cause is unknown. I doubt the shocks are set too hard. I took Tim Hunt for a run in the TR6 in December and he didn't notice anything untoward in some spirited driving on uneven roads.

    InkedIMG_3117_LI.jpg

  4. I ended up using vinegar which removed a hell of a lot of rust flakes. However, I then rinsed the tank out with water, let it dry in the sun on a 40degC day and rinsed it with petrol.

    Now a few days later there seems to be a lot of surface rust and a fair few flakes come out when I rinse it with petrol.

    Help!!

  5. For the last few months the TR6 has had a clunk from the front left when turning into driveways, parking spots etc. It only occurs if I turn a bit fast or hard.

    Investigating yesterday and we found that the top of the suspension pillar either side of the top shock absorber mount is cracked through. The right side has a small hairline crack.

    I understand this cracking occurs but isn't common. I did replace the shock absorbers for spax adjustables a year or so ago.

    I wonder if I have set them too hard or done something I shouldn't have. Any ideas?

     

  6. 8 hours ago, Paul J said:

    John

    The Alkaline solution I used was left over from a small chrome plating kit I used a few years ago so the strength of it or brand I could not tell you, it was not particularly strong but it did easily dissolve the black deposits in the tank. I wiped it dry after easily done through the top access hole I had cut out, I did wipe it out with a thin coating of ACF50 to prevent any oxidising as Im not ready for start up yet.

    Incidentally I will be in your neck of the woods in March (Gymea Bay).

    Best regards

    Paul

    Not far from me. I live in the inner west about 5kms from the city. Let me know when you are here.

    I had Tim Hunt from the UK along to a TR Register meet last month.

  7. 9 hours ago, Paul J said:

    Paul what's coming out of the tank, I ask because today before fitting my tank I inspected the inside, it was covered in a thin layer of a black substance. It was easily cleaned with a Alkaline wash, as an extra precaution I cut out an access hole in the top and gave it a thorough wipe out. Re-welded the access plate back in and now rather pleased with its service condition.

    Regards

    Paul

    I am in the process of getting the fuel tank ready to go back into my TR2. It had a new bottom fitted by the previous owner so I have had a fuel outlet fitting installed by a tank specialist. The tank is very clean inside visually so I didn't have them clean it, it costs a small fortune for tank cleaning here.

    Fuel cleanliness isn't as critical with the TR2 engine as it is with a TR6PI but I do want to get the inside of the tank as clean as I can before I paint and install it.

    I have been flushing it out with petrol and now have it so very little debris, rust flakes, are coming out. Although the fuel is pretty clean I would like to get it better. 

    What alkaline solution did you use? Did you need to do anything else to the tank?

  8. 38 minutes ago, david ferry said:

    John,

    I’m sure it will be fine but, just in case, it is well worth making sure you can quickly disconnect the battery and have a fire extinguisher to hand.

    David

     

    20 minutes ago, Z320 said:

    I recommend to you to use a battery charger or another weak 12 V power supply, max. 2 A, instead the battery.

    If everythink is swiched off / OK there mustn't flow any current.

    If you have a short circuit anywhere it does not make a fasto damage like the battery.

    To let anythink run, for example the indicators, this power supply is too weak. But you will see a reaction.

    Ciao, Marco

    Thanks David. Yes, I will do that.

    Grazie Marco,

    I thought of that too. I have a flat battery that probably still has enough charge remaining to get a reaction when I turn the ignition on and a reading on a multi meter as I turn things on. At least that will identify any major shorts before I put in a good battery.

    Other ideas would be much appreciated.

  9. I have just finished installing the wiring harness in my restoration long door TR2.

    I intended on bringing an auto electrician in to cross check the connections and test electrical operations, but with the instructions and the wiring diagram it was a relatively straightforward job to connect everything and I would prefer to get the experience of doing it myself if I can reduce the risk adequately.

    Before I put a battery onto it how can I reduce the risks? In what order should I turn things on/operate systems?

  10. 4 hours ago, Waldi said:

    Dave,

    Springs are dangerous projectiles, there is a lot of stored energy.

    There are several posts about this. Do not use the clamps with 2 threaded rods on the outside of the spring, as these may jump off due to tge steep coils (pitch) and that is dangerous ( some do it like that, not me, thanks).

     I used a central M12 or M16 threaded rod with a plate below the springpan and large think washers on top; and double nuts on the side where you turn the nut, again for safety. And use grease on the nuts, also on the nut-contact side to reduce friction and wear.

    Regards,

    Waldi

    Same, a length of threaded rod with suitable plates and a double nut on the working end. I made it 20 years ago and still use it after checking the condition of the threads each time.

  11. Thank you very much for these photos. I will use them to try to arrange the mess as tidily as possible.

    On 12/31/2018 at 6:40 AM, cjstoodley said:

    Coming along nicely John.

    On the road for your late summer/autumn ??

    Chris

     

    Thanks Chris. Probably nearer our winter, June/July. There is still a lot to do with the detail.

    It will take me time to find all the bits I am missing such as slot head screws for all the bits attached with them, heater vents for the demisters, some upholstery bits etc.

    I need to get the low port head sorted and find some 1 1/2" carbies. I have a good lead on the latter from a fellow TR Register UK member.

    No rush, I have the other TR2 to drive.

  12. I have been making good progress on my long door restoration.

    The engine bay is almost complete but still with the high port head and carbies. I have a low port being crack tested and once it is done and I find a good set of 1 1/2" carbies they will go on. The Skinners soft top, tonneau and upholstery and carpet kits are here. The seats are being sandblasted and primed ready for painting and reassembly. 

    I have bled the brakes and clutch and all looks ok. I used Silicon (Dot5) brake fluid and if there is a possibility of a leak this stuff finds it. I have a good pedal for both after much stuffing around.

    The fuel tank needs an internal sealing applied and it has had a new bottom fitted so I have to get the outlet and drain fittings installed.

    The dash has been upholstered and installed. Today I installed all the instruments and switches etc and am after some details for under the dash. The oil pressure and temp gauges are connected and it is almost ready for the sparkie to complete the wiring. I have done most of it but it looks amateurish so I will get it tidied up professionally.

    I see on the Moss site a range of clips for the speedo and tacho cables, the oil pressure gauge pipe and the temp gauge capillary tube. When I did my other TR2 many years ago I don't recall it having any clips or securing methods, I think everything just went through the firewall with no securing clips.

    I would greatly appreciate advice on all the details for how the cables and wires under the dash were arranged and secured. I want it to be as per from the dealer so am not after any methods owners have used that aren't factory original. 

    Once I have got the under dash done, the fuel tank in and the wiring set up she will be driveable, I hope.

     

     

     

     

    IMG_3072.JPG

    IMG_3070.JPG

    IMG_3071.JPG

  13. I had a similar problem after I rebuilt my m/c and installed a new Rimmer booster.

    It turned out I had made a mistake in assembling the m/c. The kit was a generic one for different similar cylinders and I had installed a seal not intended for my cylinder. Once I reassembled it correctly all was solved.

    And embarrassingly, I made a similar error on my restoration project TR2 last week. I new immediately what the problem was on this occasion. At least in both cases it was only an hour or so to remove the cylinder and fix it.

  14. Looks to me to be a very early TR3A with a couple of TR3 features.

    For a 3A:

    • The last TR3 was Comm 22013 approx. That Comm plate is probably original. This is the most telling feature.
    • It has the high port head and carbies.
    • 3A sidescreen fasteners, although this changed during the 3A production.
    • 3A bumper and bootlid.
    •  

    For a 3:

    • It has TR2/3 doors, with 3A sidescreen fasteners. Maybe the doors were left over and used on the first 3As.
    • TR3 apron and grille.
    • The gearbox dipstick/filler hole in the gearbox tunnel. 2s and 3s had this hole and it changed during 3A production and as a very early 3A it might be standard.

    Price wise it is too much in my view. The car needs a thorough probably body off rebuild and new floors and paint aren't cheap. It isn't a rare car and has no particularly desirable features.

    But it looks straight and there is no reason it couldn't be a fantastic car with money and time.

  15. 22 hours ago, Hamish said:

    John

    don't get me wrong. NOOOO-one can have too many older cars. 

    I’m lucky to have one and do the odd sprint and hillclimb with the club champs. It’s the space I’m envious of. :D

    but even tho Oz is a big place with lots of space it’s still at a premium around the cities and east coast. 

    I spent a year there in 1989/90 driving everywhere in a 1973 falcon even got to the f1 at Adelaide whilst working in a chocolate warehouse in port Melbourne.  After which I opal mined in Glengarry NSW which I believe has been gentrified with roads and everything,

    A wounderful country. 

    It is a great place to live. We travel a fair bit and we love many countries but Australia wins every time.

    We live in what is a close in, about 5kms or a 55 minute walk from Sydney CBD. We moved here 2 years ago and were fortunate to find a 120 year old 3 bedroom house with a big garage with rear lane access. That is when the BRG TR2 was joined by the TR6. The restoration TR2 wasn't planned but when the car was offered to me I couldn't let somebody else finish it and not build it as an original spec car.

    All garages with a classic in them are worthy garages. Our previous house where we lived for 22 years had a single carport. The BRG TR2 lived there, family cars on the street.

     

  16. 13 hours ago, Hamish said:

    I obviously didn’t work hard enough :(

    but I know I was never going to get rich working as an EHO at the local council but I did try and keep people healthier and safer despite the year on year financial and personnel cuts.

     

    enjoy your hobby and congrats that is a truly lovely space.

    H

    I have owned the BRG TR2 since February 1976, nearly 43 years, and it is my daily driver. The TR6 is an indulgence as is the restoration project. One will go when the TR2 is finished.

  17. 46 minutes ago, Mike C said:

     You have pre tensioned the rack prior to clamping up the U bolts? There are ways of doing this detailed in the various forums if you haven't got the special tool.

    I've generally found it better to rebuild  the  original Triumph/Stanpart  components than replace -I've been very disappointed by modern reproduction parts. 

    Thanks Mike. The rack hasn't been out in my ownership. When I bought the car I had the previous owner have the bushes replaced which he did by a service centre known to the Triumph owners here. I can only assume they did pretension the rack. The car has been driven by a very good Triumph specialist who didn't mention anything untoward about the steering.

    I take your point on new parts. They have often let me down.

  18. 2 hours ago, Rogcastle said:

    Hi John

    Your steering rack might need centering.

    Roger

    The manual just says when installing to centre the rack, not how. I just looked at the rack mounts and the flange butts up against the clamp. Is there something I'm missing here.

    I see new racks are available from Moss-Europe for about 130pds. As there is also a bit of play in the pinion bush this looks like the best option if it needs repair.

  19. Thank you all. I have just jacked the front left wheel up under the bottom wishbone to retest it.

    The only play I can find is (what I think) a bit of play in the rack on the left side. The rack has new poly bushes, it isn't the rack moving on the chassis, but play in the rack itself. It isn't much play and it was checked in April, maybe 2000klms ago, for an MOT.

    I think this is where the noise is coming from but I'm not sure. I would have thought the rack play would be taken up as you start turning, not take up with a clunk when you get near full lock.

  20. When I turn into my garage on full right lock, or close to it, I sometimes get a clunk from the left front.

    I have jacked the front up and taken the load off the suspension with a 2nd jack and can't find any play in the top ball joint/bearings etc.

    Is there a common cause of such clunks in the TR6?

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