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John McCormack

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Everything posted by John McCormack

  1. Looking at the TR6s for sale here in Australia good PIs are few and far between. Most are ex US, carbied PIs or not in very good or original condition. I think a rust free good road going original PI (with some mods like Bosch pump and upgraded rear end) will fetch more than $40K, and prices of all classics have been going up quite a bit. I am also doing a restoration, of a long door TR2, just because I want to restore this example as a Concours standard car. My original budget for the resto including purchase cost was $45K. The estimate is now at $55K, which should cover it but might not. Th
  2. Thank you all for the advice. Just to clarify, the new telescopic shock mounts are bolted to the original lever arm mounts and the new shocks have internal bump stops. The axles included new upgraded hubs. I removed the wheels and the rear end looks to be all in order, no tyre rubbing, no contact with shock mounts or exhaust, shock travel is right, no diff bearing issues. After talking with a couple of mechanics including the one who provided the CV axles,and in the absence of any other cause, we have deduced it is the drivers side CV axle. The axle was fitted a couple of months ago and I
  3. My 1970 Pi has developed a vibration through the body from the back end. It only occurs on left hand bends, when the suspension compresses on undulations in the road and when accelerating hard at speed. Background About 2 months ago I fitted CV axles. There might have been a vibration then but I didn't get it out enough to really know. The front right diff mount was broken away and I probably assumed any problems were associated with that. Last week I had the diff mounts repaired and strengthened by a Triumph specialist garage, He also put a new pinion seal in as the old one had a
  4. Thank you all, especially Conrad with the measurements for the hole location. I have obtained two quotes today for a straight hole and for a wet box hole. The straight hole I am looking at up to 8 hours labour or $1,200 plus tax, a wet box could be as much as 30 hours labour or $4,500 plus tax. Both specialists said it would be better to start with another core that the manufacturer put the hole in. If it had been cheap I could have maybe justified it but paying that sort of money to achieve a minor originality feature (and lose 15% cooling capacity when I live in a hot country) doesn't mak
  5. With mine the knock off was fully tightened and the wheel could move on the spline. I recall the knock on was actually touching the spokes. That was with very old wheels, the more modern wheels are a different shape and they grip the knock on much better. Tighten the wheel up and see how much clearance there is between the knock on and the spokes. It should be about 5mm or 1/4".
  6. You could be right. The fellow I bought the car from bought it in 1966 and didn't do the interior, so it would have had to be done very early on. The carpet on the seats is the same as the samples I have from the floor and the seat leather is definitely the original. The 1st owner could have renewed the carpets and done the seat backs at the same time but it does seem to be an unusual thing to do, replace the seat backs with carpet keeping the original leather. I'll keep searching for the answer..
  7. A bit of a delay but I have been through your photos. Lovely car and restoration. I like the quality of the Skinners kit and they have sent me colour samples which very closely match the original items I have. Decision made. I have a original crank handle but no other tools. Any advice on where I could get a set?
  8. My seats still have the original covering on them and the seat backs are carpet, not vinyl. The carpet is sewn on professionally and appears to be an original factory fit. It is on both seats and the carpet is the same as the bits of original floor carpet I have with the car. I suspect it was a factory option. Has anybody seen or heard of long door TR2 seats having carpet on the seat backs?
  9. Had a great turn up today Viv for a regular monthly run to a cafe in Picton. 5 TRs and a couple of members in other vehicles. The Common Ground cafe is just on the southern side of the old Hume Hwy Razorback road. Although it is now an 80km/h limit judicious use of power can get a bit of a drift. I cleaned the points last night with a light wipe with 1200 grade piece of wet and dry and then a clean with clean printer paper. As I said above it did make a difference because the flicker disappeared at a couple of hundred lower rpm.
  10. We are use to it. They are like little brothers trying to get one up on big brother, who they love really. :-). When it has come to the crunch, the ANZACs come together. I just wish they had decided to join the Australian Federation so we could field a decent rugby team.
  11. Thanks Richard. I want the hole just for originality. I aim to build this car as close as I can to how it was when it left the factory, although built to the standards the factory probably wished they had been able to build it. I have another TR2 I have owned for 42 years as a daily driver, covering about 10,000 miles a year. It is also very original but with an electric fan, no crank hole, high port head and a hi-torque starter motor.
  12. Thanks Rob. I think the flicking has been noticeable since this regulator went in which is probably now about 20,000+ miles. The car has done a lot of long high speed trips with it like this, I have just taken an interest in it after doing some Googling, probably shouldn't have done that. My view is the regulators are all now reproductions and are not maybe as good as they were/should be. These regulators are provided through our TR Register parts supplies and these ones are the ones used worldwide in the tractor trade. The member in question sells hundreds of them every year worldwide so has
  13. I am building my long door TR2 to original specs, as best as I can. The new radiator that came with the car doesn't have the crank hole, nor does my driver car. Does anyone know how to correctly locate the crank hole in a new radiator?
  14. A photo? One broken spoke shouldn't be a problem. I have driven my car with its previous 48 spoke wheels with up to 3 broken spokes. Only around town mind you and not at speed. Groaning from the wheel might just be the wheel wasn't tight enough. It could also be that the spokes are indeed loose or the knock on is old and stretched and doesn't tighten the wheel properly. I had this problem in years past
  15. I took the car for a TR Register coffee run this morning and had the chance to talk with the TR Register parts distributor on this subject. In my words, the generators are poor chargers below about 2000rpm and it will be the regulator trying to get the right voltage at lower and mid range revs. This is particularly the case when the battery is full charged. He said it is unlikely to be the generator which will last many 10s of thousands of miles provided you don't over tighten the belt and you don't have extractors that go close to the generator. After start or after a period at the lights
  16. Thanks for the advice. I went out to the garage, it is late here, and checked and cleaned the generator terminals, regulator terminals, solenoid terminals and ran some 1200 grade paper through the regulator points. No appreciable change. The dash lights flicker lightly with the ammeter, the charge light stays off and below 1500 it is usually a steady charge and once it gets to about 2400-2500 it charges steadily. The generator was new about 15-20,000 miles ago. Brushes have normally lasted longer than that for me, but brushes are the suspect!
  17. My ammeter often flicks around rather than showing a steady charge, usually between about 1800 and 2400 rpm. The charge is usually steady at 2500 rpm and above and often steady at around 1500. Would this be dirty regulator points?
  18. It is unlikely although possible it is a hot spot. It is far more likely the ignition is too far advanced for the fuel octane rating being used. I had a pinking problem at higher revs under load. Even with the ignition retarded a fair way it would still pink. Talking to some mates they asked what fuel I was using to which I answered Shell 98. They said it is the worse 98 in Australia. I switched to BP Ultimate 98 and the problem was solved and even allowed a bit more advance and power. Just because the manufacturer says it is 98, or whatever octane, doesn't mean it is.
  19. If you disconnect it you will need to keep your right foot on the throttle until it is warm enough to idle. This can be a real pain in traffic, especially on hill starts.
  20. Hi, I have just received TRaction and see that the TR Shop has a TR6 rear telescopic conversion kit for TTR6s for 174 pds. That seems a very good price for a full kit. Has anybody used them and what do you think?
  21. I have recently noticed a bit of backlash in the diff evidenced by a light click when taking off and changing gears. It isn't too noticeable and can e easily missed. I was under the car on Friday to check it and it has similar, maybe slightly more, movement as yours. The backlash may have been there for awhile but it became noticeable when I fitted CV half shafts that removed all the other clunks and noises from the rear end. My Triumph mechanic, an excellent tradesman who was Triumph trained and been a Triumph mechanic since the 60s, took it for a drive for the annual registration
  22. It is probably just parallax error. The needle is a small distance from the face so it will 'move' depending on the angle you are looking from. I always get a bit of a surprise looking at the gauges from the passenger seat as they all read differently than from the drivers seat.
  23. Agree, let it rest for awhile. The Prince of Darkness sometimes lets you off with a scare. If it persists check all the battery, generator, earth and regulator wires are clean and tight. Do this anyway. Then put a multimeter on your battery with the engine at 2000 revs, it should show above 14.5-15 volts. If it reads 12-12.5 volts it isn't charging at all and if above 12.5 and less than 14.5 it isn't charging properly. If it isn't charging or not properly, put one lead of the multimeter lead to earth somewhere on the engine (e.g. head stud or bellhousing bolt) and the other on the
  24. Thanks Edwin. Beautiful job. What detailing did you need to do to the Skinner kit?
  25. Now that the body and chassis are together (photo attached) I have dug out the wiring loom and the upholstery. The wiring loom is an original factory item purchased in the late 60s or early 70s and is in perfect condition and complete with all fittings. The insulation is like new and the original colours look great. Woohoo. The upholstery is the original cardboard backing, mostly original leather, vinyl and even the original brown carpet. It will need complete replacement which I was going to source from Skinners. The car was last registered in Apr 65 and driven in Dec 66 and only
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