John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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Great stories. Write it up Bill.
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On 6/1/2023 at 2:32 AM, Rod1883 said:
Thanks everyone. Some things for me to try ......
John - the nipple is quite a way aft of the large rubber bung in the tunnel. Drilling another hole above the nipple location could be another option.
I'm surprised the nipple isn't somewhere directly under the rubber plug. On my daily driver TR2 it is directly under the rubber and is a bit further aft on my other two sidescreens but easily accessible through the hole.
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3 hours ago, Charlie D said:
Maybe replace the grease nipple with a much longer one, just to get the grease in and then remove it and plug the hole with a short Allen head screw, glued to an Allen key. Once screwed in place wobble the Allen key to break the glue joint. I believe that you can get flexible Allen keys if need be.
Charlie.
Just spotted these. Don’t know if they are the correct size, but it proves that such things do exist..
https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/grease-plug-1-4--x-3-8--grease-nipple-blank%3A/sk604030
I put a long grease nipple in and just leave it there. Greasing is a 30 second job, remove rubber cover plug, apply grease, replace plug.
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13 hours ago, Corkery11 said:
Hi Bob was hoping you'd be along, many of your previous replies to others have been a Godsend regards pointing me in the right direction. Amongst the boxes of bits n pieces was an old positive radio but like yourself I don't intend to refit it but will opt for a Bluetooth battery powered jobie if I find I need to have music etc.
No doubt I'll be trying to pick your brain many times in the next few months as progress seems to be picking up.
Mark
The engine provides beautiful music, especially between 3 and 5,000rpm in 2nd or 3rd.
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14 minutes ago, Corkery11 said:
The car is finally staring to go together. I'm at that nice stage where most parts are refurbished clean or replaced. Of course that also means I'll be discovering the hundreds of those parts which I have forgotten to pre order. Fortunately I can get to Moss Bradford in 15 minutes or so.
I have spent most evenings going through the forum so that the following day I'm ready to go.
However .... What are these? I think they are for the dash to steady it in addition to those that support the heater and connect to rear of the battery box.
Thanks in advance folks.
Mark
I don't recognise them at all. Not dashboard supports which are straight and shorter. My cars are TR2 and TR3, maybe these are 3A front bumper bar brackets.
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I'd be checking for rust under that paintwork. I think I can see a sign under the sill in one of those photos and the state of the engine bay leads me to think the respray wasn't body off.
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I have Lumenition in my TR6 because it was already in it when I bought it 7 years ago. It turns out the Lumenition was already over 20 years old before I got the car. The 3 pin connector broke so I bought a new Lumenition for the TR6 and fixed the connector to fit the old Lumenition into one of my TR2s, my daily driver car. They are both still going strong.
A TR3 I acquired last year has a Pertronix in it from the previous owner. It works great and many TRs in Australia have Pertronix. We usually do a lot of miles here, even the garage queens.
I had a Accuspark in the daily driver TR2. It lasted about a year and then broke down above 3500rpm. They sent me a new one free of charge. It failed as soon as it was fitted, similar symptoms.
But I agree with the others that your issue is not the points. Points work fine and when they do have a problem (usually the condenser) it is a 5 minute job to fix it beside the road. If the electronic ignition fails you either need a spare one with you or the points and condensor to go back in. Where points do let you down is if the distributor is worn the shaft wobbles, especially at low revs, meaning your points gap, dwell and timing are all over the place.
Replace the condensor and rotor button and see if that fixes it. Cheap and easy. If that doesn't work dizzy cap and leads. If there is still a problem the coil. You can do the coil before the cap and leads, whichever is the cheapest first.
Once the problem is resolved fit electronic ignition if you still want to.
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165 80 on one of my TR2s. 175 80 on another. 195 65 on the TR3 and they are too small a diameter.
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Sorry, misread the post so deleted my comments.
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On 5/1/2023 at 10:30 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Plus one for head retorque.
I had a similar incident a couple of years back. The re torque was peace of mind. Yes keep an eye on the water level. Get that thermo switch sorted out.
Use a manual switch, Thermo ones cause many problems in Australia when they fail on hot days because people rely on them and don't watch the instruments.
With a manual switch you learn very quickly to check the gauges regularly.
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23 hours ago, Z320 said:
Sorry……?
TRs will veer towards the road camber, driving on the left the car will veer to the left. Vice versa for driving on the right. To correct for this slight veering it you steer a slight amount against the camber. If your wheels are out of alignment it can result in noticeable wear on the down slope tyre.
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2 hours ago, Waldi said:
I consider 45-50 lbs when hot at idle a good oil pressure, or am I missing something here?
Mimi,
Regarding 135 psi compression: that seems a bit low but I would not do anything except checking the valve clearances.Did you measure this with wide open throttle (you should)?
Also, check the instrument, it could be faulty or leaking a bit.
Waldi
Mine is at 70 at cruise (25-2600rpm) and drops to 35 at idle. This is when very hot, 30+ degree C day and after a long high speed run. Anything over 25 psi at idle when very hot is fine in my books provided it is over 50-60psi at speed..
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The formal dinner was at the Rydges at the Mount Panorama circuit. The view from our balcony with Conrod Straight below us. It is a public road when not in use for racing. 60km/h speed limit.
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Me with the white hat in the bottom photo. Probably explaining the virtues of the TR2.
It was a great day with over 110 Triumphs from 1926 Super 7s to 1980s TR8s. My long door TR2 was given pride of place which was very nice of the organisers.
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On 3/15/2023 at 12:27 AM, TomMull said:
My TR3 had a TR4 gearbox with overdrive when I bought it. It leaked oil badly and popped out of second occasionally. I replaced it with a Tr3 gearbox that I had on hand. No leaks, much quieter and stays in all the gears.
I do plan to rebuild the TR4 gearbox at some point but no hurry as I'm quite pleased with the original non OD non synchro one. The lack of first gear synchro is a non issue with me but I do admit that I rarely drive on expressways so I don't miss the OD either.
Tom
I've just got back from a weekend in Bathurst, to celebrate the 100th Centenary of Triumph. We had about 120 Triumphs from 1926 Super 7s to TR8s. The drive is about 135 miles each way over the Blue Mountains with a lot of different roads and speed limits. Most freeway speed limits here are 110km/h, 70mph.
I took my long door TR2 which has od only on top. On trips like this one I use the od as much as I can for comfort, to reduce noise and for economy. I find the car is very tractable in overdrive from about 60km/h up to whatever I can do.
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It is 39degC here today. The cars and me are staying indoors.
My BRG TR2 is my daily driver so it is out a lot. The other TRs I try to drive on a 30km run at least once a fortnight and a long run every month or so.
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On 3/4/2023 at 11:01 AM, OldBob said:
I guess its the way you adapt to drive then Mick, doing 5mph plus in my basic 90bhp TR2 with its original 3 synchro box is fine in 2nd gear, wouldn't need to change down. I remember when being taught to drive you were expected to control the car right down to walking speed in 2nd, not 1st.
Bob
Me too. I've never needed to put the car into 1st when moving.
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On 2/23/2023 at 7:42 PM, Hamish said:
Is there a way of seeing if you have one already ?
any tell-tail features ? Compared to original, this is mine.
My TR3 is a bit dismantled for painting making it easy to take a photo of the Revington box top.
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11 hours ago, Alanretired said:
Hi all. Thank you for your comments. I will order a sprung steering box cover from Revington and see for myself what difference it makes to the straight line performance.
Regards
Alan
I have the Revington spring loaded top on my three sidescreens. It is fabulous. Nothing less.
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I alerted a couple of our Doretti owners thinking they would want to get a few spare panels and aprons. Unfortunately, it was all too difficult for them.
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I did my front suspension bushes at home in a weekend.
The rears I had done by a local Triumph man for about 500pds equivalent. The rears can be done without dismantling the rear suspension. I think the rears were about 5 hours labour all up.
I used poly bushes all round and it might have given a slightly harsher ride but I'll never have to do them again.
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On 2/13/2023 at 8:42 PM, Z320 said:
Bob, maybe, but not tight enough.
Believe me, I made this annoying self test and drove hours without any self tightening.
A couple of year ago a mate who lives near me joined me for a 50km drive to have coffee with Register friends. The first 35kms are in city stop start traffic, the final bit on freeway and winding country road. He had his newly restored TR2 and stopped a couple of times to check his car. After about 30kms he stopped again and asked me to listen to the knock he could hear. I asked him how he had tightened his wire wheels and he said with this light mallet he had as he was told they self-tighten. I knocked them tight with my copper hammer and he never had a problem again.
I've driven about 250,000 miles in my daily driver TR2 over 47 years. Maybe another 10,000 in my other sidescreen TRs. I've tried all manner of methods of tightening wire wheels, and I have never had a wheel tighten itself if it wasn't tightened properly to start with.
Long and extensive experience tells me you should tighten them properly.
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1 hour ago, M. Pied Lourd said:
Hi All,
Just thought I’d drop a post in here as I’ll probably need to bend an ear or two once I start the restoration of my newly acquired, 1970 Triumph TR6 PI. I’m located just North of Toronto, Ontario, Canada. As You can imagine, a Home Market, RHD TR6 is quite a rarity over here…I was surprised to find one! It’s pretty rough, but I like a good challenge. I’ve restored a few TR’s in the past and most recently completed a 68 TR250. I’m looking forward to starting on the TR6 hopefully in the not too distant future. I have a 59 TR3A project to complete before then….
I’ve posted a couple videos to my YouTube Channel if you are interested in taking a look at it….
Cheers,
Tush
A bit if a correction. The PI cars went worldwide except for North America. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Singapore etc all got the PI in RHD form.
Best of luck with the restoration. My eldest son lives in Downtown, Toronto. We might see the car when we come over to visit him, probably late next year.
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4 hours ago, Stephen Chester said:
Most Triumph spares shops stock a wooden tool that fits over the spinner. the length provides plenty of leverage to tighten / loosen when hit with a hide hammer, also sold by same spares shops.
Price for tool about £15 . Good value for preserving the chrome on spinners.
The wooden tools are very difficult to get in the right position on the spinner and I've found with mine, from Moss, it started breaking up almost straight away.
I use the copper Thor hammer. On my everyday driver it has damaged the spinners but they are 15 or so years old and they match the car's patina.
I use a new Thor hammer on my concours car, after 15 years the old one has compressed the copper so it is too hard, usually tightening with a block of wood as noted above. I then give the spinner a lightish tap with the copper directly until it doesn't rotate any further and you can hear that 'right' sound that tells you it is tight.
A number of owners tell me they never tighten the spinners as they will tighten with the wheel's rotation. 47 years' experience, and the logic that there is very little inertia in a small spinner of small diameter, tells me this is not true. In my experience the spinner needs to be tapped tight until it doesn't move any further. This is achieved by tapping the spinner with the copper hammer, not big hard blows but a tap using mainly the weight of the hammer plus a bit of added force. Experience tells you how much.
Tr2 leaking rad
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted · Edited by John McCormack
I have 6 blade Triumph 2000 fans (the tropical fan) on my concours TR2 and on my TR3. Both are special cars for which originality is important. The 6 blade fan is more than adequate even in Australia's summer heat.
My daily driver TR2 has a manually operated electric fan. I don't recommend auto fans, if you don't keep an eye on the gauge and the fan fails to come on you can be in serious trouble. You learn quickly to keep an eye on the gauge with a manual fan.
The yellow plastic TR6 fan is too thick. I don't think it will fit at all but if it does it will be too close to the radiator and will hit the rad under heavy braking, if not before. The 2000 fan is only about 1/4" from the bottom tank of the radiator but has adequate clearance to the core.