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John McCormack

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Everything posted by John McCormack

  1. I bought the kit off eBay as recommended by Hamish. I ran the test and the fluid didn't change colour. I had the engine running for about 6-7 minutes from cold and about 4 minutes with the thermostat open. It had air bubbling through the fluid including a few 30 second runs at reasonably high revs, maybe 2500-3000 (head under the bonnet so couldn't see the tacho). The temp gauge was about 190 when I stopped the test. The fluid didn't change colour so I suppose that is another indication that it isn't a cylinder head gasket leak. It is probably one of those random things th
  2. Similar to mine. I'm leaving the hardtop white, I like it.
  3. My long door TR2 is in its original colour combination of signal red, fawn weather equipment and brown leather interior. My short door TR2 is also in its original colour scheme of BRG, fawn weather equipment and red leather (the red has darkened over the decades, due for replacement). I like the various original colour combinations, adds very much to the character and individuality of the cars.
  4. It hasn't been delivered yet. I'll let the forum know when I use it
  5. Good suggestion. Yes it has an original heater which is switched off at the tap. I forgot to open it when I flushed the system. I don't think that is it though. I haven't opened the tap for a couple of months.
  6. I removed the head without disturbing the liners. The head was only off for a few minutes before I put the low port head on. I've done 1600 miles since the head swap. I flushed the radiator and the engine as best I could (put water up through the bottom hose) and filled it up with new coolant I took it for a 30km drive and again there is a rust film build up on the top of the coolant. Clean the rust film off and the coolant appears clear, no oil in the coolant. The oil is clean and clear. It didn't use any coolant on this drive but probably need a longer drive to be sure. It did
  7. I checked the spark plugs this morning. All are a nice tan colour, no sign of them being 'cleaned' by moisture in the combustion chamber. I might be over reacting, I'll keep driving it and keep a close eye on the coolant and oil. The CO2 kit will tell me one way or the other. It only cost $34, it will be very useful to all club members close to me.
  8. Thank you all. I’ve bought one on eBay. I’ll drive the car locally until it arrives. If it doesn’t lose coolant or have any other blown head gasket symptoms I will test it with the kit. if it does I’ll have to take the head off, the kit will be handy in the future anyway. I can’t see another cause for the rusty foam than combustion gases in the coolant. The symptoms have only started recently. If it was just gunge in the coolant it would have occurred earlier than 2800 miles after the car was put back in the road.
  9. Yes Stuart the head was cleaned in acid prior to the guides, valves etc. it did sit in the garage for a year or so but it was still very clean before installation. The foaming rust buildup I do think is a result of gas leakage into the coolant. I believe the coolant does have bubbles coming up and will check more thoroughly. After these comments I will drive the car a bit more to see what develops. I’ll get a good run in and check the plugs to see if coolant is getting into a cylinder and burning the plug white.
  10. Thanks Mick. Yes the traditional copper faced gasket. I was told by a reliable owner that they aren’t that good nowadays. I set my torque wrench to 110 pds, the spec is 100-105, just to make sure I’m not under doing it. A question, are the symptoms the car has only from a leaking head gasket. Could there be another cause.
  11. Good question. Because gas is getting into the coolant and causing the rusty foam to occur. I expect you could see the gas bubbles in the coolant if the next wasn’t there.
  12. My recently restored long door TR2 came with a rebuilt engine that had a high port head and carbies. The engine has 87mm liners, a half race cam and runs 160 psi compression. Otherwise it is a stock engine. I ran the car with this head for 1200 miles. I then installed the restored low port head and carbies using a standard (cheap) composite gasket. I retorqued the head at 400 miles. I have now done 1600 miles from the changeover to the low port head. After a 100 mile outing on Wednesday, much of it on the freeway at 110-120 km/h, I checked the coolant and there was a layer of r
  13. Earlier TR2s did not have the chrome trim surround. It came in after my short door TR2 TS5038O. A long door car will have the full cowling around the air inlet and no holes for the chrome surround. If it has the open top inlet and holes it is a TR3 apron. If it doesn't have the holes for the surround it is likely to be a TR2 one modified later but I would expect such a modification to be poorly done. There is no advantage to opening the inlet, it reduces the air going through the radiator for no real benefit of air going over the radiator.
  14. After a few hiccups and a great deal of help from a TR Register Australia member I now have a fully rebuilt 2500 with J type overdrive gearbox. It is the same setup as currently in my TR6 but with mods could go into the daily driver TR2. It has new bearings, synchros, upgraded layshaft and roller bearings, new reverse gear and new seals and gaskets. The selectors are hardly worn and the selector seals were also done. All tolerances are well within spec. We ran the gearbox on a bench test and it is quiet, changes gears very nicely and the overdrive engages and disengages properly. we
  15. I had a similar problem with a Moss unit. It wasn't the pump but the nyloc nuts. I used plain nuts with spring washers.
  16. My capillary temp gauge packed up last week. There is a fellow here in Sydney who does them so I gave him a call. He asked when it was last done, very early 1980s I said at a place called Olympic Instruments. He said he was at Olympic Instruments back then so would have done it. I asked if he provided a warranty as his last job can't have been too good, it only lasted nearly 40 years.
  17. My daily driver TR2 has stock suspension with a front ARB. I only fitted the ARB a few months ago and I feel it has tightened the steering and aids quicker cornering without the front tucking under. What is the benefit of removing the front ARB in your situation?
  18. Converters were popular here after we changed from imperial to metric about 1975. Haven't seen one for ages.
  19. A slight hijack of the thread but it is about radiators and cooling. My car had an original radiator that externally looked to be very old. On hot days (I'm talking over 40 degC and up to mid 40s) in very heavy traffic my engine would get very warm. After half an hour it would be in the top of the gauge but not boiling. Using a infra red heat sensor it was running about 215 degF. I bought an ebay aluminium radiator. The engine temperature still rose with long periods at idle. On closer inspection the old radiator is in excellent condition so the new radiator wasn't needed. The e
  20. I must admit my knowledge of the A type isn't great and is based on the TR2s I own. I wasn't aware of any difference between the two with respect to the 4 cyl TRs.
  21. The overdrives are the same between saloon and TR6 except for the final ratio which varied depending on the car it went into. From memory you can get 23, 25 and 28% overdrives. Most J types here seem to be the 28% version.
  22. The input shafts are tricky. There are a number of different versions in length and the gear helix. Once you have found one the same length as the existing one you need to ensure that the gear helix is the same as your mainshaft gear. They have the same number of teeth but the angle of the teeth is different. I know because in my 1st attempt the laygear wouldn't mesh with the mainshaft. Wrong helix.
  23. I am just finished building a 2500 box with J type overdrive as a spare for my TR6 and can advise on a couple of things. The 2500 and the TR6 gearbox are essentially the same. The input shaft being the only significant difference and all that means is you use a 2500 clutch plate. I understand there are other more common Isuzu or whatever plates that also fit. The output shafts are the same, depending on whether you have overdrive or not. The output flange is different but as the box is in your car already that has been swapped for a TR6 one or the 2500 one has already been modified.
  24. Not dissimilar to Australia. You're on your own a lot of the time so need to be able to address the common, and some not so common, issues.
  25. Almost guaranteed it will. Try my suggestion with the thin blade.
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