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John McCormack

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Posts posted by John McCormack

  1. 7 hours ago, Nobbysr said:

    Interesting John , I would  have thought they would have used round holes as it would have cheaper and easier to make plus better to seal .However they are in such odd place, either side of the pedal apperture on both sides of the car which is very strange

    cheers

    Steve

    I have seen photos of the cars being built in the factory with square pegs in the holes to position the various panels. Some years ago now but they might be somewhere on the net.

  2. To continue this older thread, I needed to replace the ring gear and clutch in the TR6 so while it was apart I fitted the gearbox I rebuilt with your assistance. The car has now done about 500kms with no obvious problems and the gearbox is far better than the one I took out. Fingers crossed.

    I am now doing my TR3 gearbox. My wife and I took the car to the TR Register Concours in Stanthorpe, about 600kms from home and a round trip of about 2200kms, without any significant problems.

    On its first run after we got back reverse gear was very noisy, it lost a reverse gear tooth off the layshaft piece. The gearbox was worked on not many miles ago by one of our club experts (it was a few years ago but the car wasn't used for many decades) and everything apart from the lost tooth are good. A new reverse gear, rear bearing and seals and gaskets will do it. 

    Having done the TR6 box in this thread I have not had too much problem dismantling this one and am about to start reassembly. Just awaiting a centre bearing, a bit hard to come by here.

     

     

  3. Over 50 hot above 2000rpm is fine. As low as 15-20 at idle is also fine.

    It is preferable if it is over 20 at idle and nearer 60-65 above 2000rpm.

    By hot I mean after a 20 or more km run at freeway speeds on a warm day.

    This is with a 25-50 grade mineral oil. I use Castrol Edge 25-50. Penrite will be very similar.

  4. I have a hitorque starter for my TR6 bought from our local Triumph specialist last year. It replaced the original starter which had damaged the ring gear. The new starter recently started to occasionally not mesh properly on the ring gear.

    There were other issues so I decided to take the gearbox out to install a new clutch, a newly rebuilt gearbox and new ring gear. I also replaced the pinion on the starter.

    One start in 10 or so the hi torque starter is not engaging the ring gear and grinds, as it was doing before. These starters are supposed to engage the ring gear first and then start turning. It appears this one is occasionally turning the pinion before it engages on the ring gear.

    It only happens occasionally and most of the time it works fine.

    At the specialist's suggestion I rang the starter suppliers who could only say the starter pinion might not be set up correctly for the ring gear. As it worked fine for a year this is not likely. He did say that any restriction in current to the starter might cause a problem.

    I will replace the starter lead but has anyone else had a similar problem with their hitorque starter?

  5. I use a manual switch. I have had too many of our members miss the temperature rise and the auto fan hasn't come on. There is a real risk of major damage.

    However, a much bigger problem awaits those who use waterless coolant. We've had two cars destroy the engine because they missed the temperature rise and there was no steam to warn them.

    I once flew for a living so have a very good instrument scan. It is really necessary that we all develop a good scan irrespective of using an auto or manual switch.

  6. Thanks Bob.

    Unfortunately, not the overdrive. It is engaging and disengaging normally.

    With the car on axle stands all is fine in the forward gears, overdrive working normally.

    With overdrive off put the car in reverse and the rear wheels turn as per normal but it sounds like a tooth missing on a gear. A regular knock knock knock from the gear box.

    Mayb the reverse gear has lost a tooth.

  7. This morning my TR3 made a nasty noise when backing out of the garage. It appears to be from the gearbox or maybe the clutch. wasn't there at the start but started after a few seconds. The car moves normally. No problems in forward gears.

    I took it for a good long drive yesterday to have coffee with club members. No noises, including reversing out of a parking spot at my destination.

    Not sure if it is the clutch but suspect the box. 

    Just when I have the box out of the TR6. Damn

    Noises in reverse, any ideas to start looking at?

    I just put the car back in the garage and the gearbox is making bad noises rolling backwards with the clutch in. Forward is still ok.

    More analysis, it isn't stuck in overdrive. Sounds like a gear tooth is missing.

  8. 16 minutes ago, John Morrison said:

    With my crane similar to above it takes me towards two hours to have a box on the floor without any strain or risk, and I’m seventy- and was never built like a rugby player 

    John

    I'm also 70 (in a few months) and smaller than a rugby player. I've spent probably two hours now with half an hour to an hour to go.

  9. 24 minutes ago, elclem1 said:

    I don't have a crane but i do have a big ex rugby player to help. It takes us about 1/2 hour to remove a box. Never been through the passenger door always the drivers, maybe passenger side is easier?     

    Ahh, your car would be left hand drive. I'm in Australia with right hand drive so I am going out through the same door as you.

    It took me a lot more than that to get to this stage. Remove; seats, tunnel (stuck down with sealant, tail shaft, clutch slave, starter motor, gearbox mount. Photograph the od wiring and prop up with timber packing under the sump.

    Still to attach the crane, undo remaining bolts, protect the floor, hopefully slide the box out.

  10. 2 hours ago, elclem1 said:

    Yes, there is just enough space to take out a J type box but i normally take it through towards the drivers side door. 

    Thank you. This is a J type od box.

    Why towards the driver's door? 

    A Register member here made this crane for removing/replacing the gearbox. Originally made for TR2/3 I've used it numerous rimes on my sidescreen cars. It has also been used by others on T4/5/6.

    Wheel it in through the passenger door, wrap the loop around the gearbox/od joint, use the jack to take the load, slide the gearbox backwards free of the engine, tilt it slightly to allow the clutch actuator to clear the floor, wheel it out through the passenger door.

    IMG_2794.jpg

    IMG_2795.jpg

  11. I've removed many TR2/3 gearboxes but not the TR6.

    I've got it to just the upper bellhousing bolts to remove and have a locally made gearbox crane to remove the box through the passenger door. It looks to be a tight fit.

    Will the gearbox come out through the passenger door without removing the dash?

  12. On 7/11/2020 at 7:07 AM, 2long said:

    Is there any way of recreating the thin black plastic coating used on the grab handle for the 2?   Paint looks fine but a little different feel.

    Dan

    Missed the date of the post, deleted my new reply

  13. I tension might up quite tight, not hard but so there is serious drag when rotating the wheel. This ensures the bearing is properly seated home on the axle. Then back off 1-2 flats. I.e. one flat and then keep going until the split pin will go in.

    Tighten the wheel up and check that there is maybe the very slightest amount of play and more importantly that the wheel rotates freely.

    I retention them every year or so.

  14. On 7/6/2023 at 6:08 PM, Corkery11 said:

    Not sure if it's the camera angle but for me I think I prefer the second set up which seems to be set up a bit more "straight".

    Thanks for snaps.

    The 2nd shot is of my TR3 which is guaranteed to be spot on. I acquired the car from the 2nd owner who bought the car when it was 18 months old and in new condition. It had never been disassembled before I did it to get it painted.

    The first photo is of my 'concours' TR2 which I am also only the 3rd owner, but it was dismantled when I got it.

  15. 32 minutes ago, S t e p h e n said:

    Thank you for the information were going to order a build sheet eventually, my dad loved this car when he was younger. And luckily with all the kids he had he managed to keep it.

    Unfortunately the body is in terrible shape due to his step mother's mental disorder. We've already sourced the interior and exterior minus glass. We have had it running a handful of times it seems to be a fueling issue. Hes told me the fueling rate of the pump is different with the 83 to 86 pistons. I wouldnt think it would have much of a difference. I personally as a certified ase master know very little about the tr3s.

     

    With his blessing after he gets to drive it stock, im going to fully rebuild the engine, he mentioned something about a sleeve and piston kit that's safe to run regular unleaded gas without additive, sorry for the off topic information im just excites to get away from working on subarus.

    The fuel pump is the same for all the TR engines TR2-4A. Pumps are interchangeable.

    The build sheet might tell you the displacement at build but from my experience the vast majority have been changed over the years. If your dad owned it from new he will know if it has been modified but otherwise you need to take the head off to measure the bores.

    Unless you really want to know the displacement best to leave it alone. The displacement won't impact on anything else you do to the car.

  16. I have 6 blade Triumph 2000 fans (the tropical fan) on my concours TR2 and on my TR3. Both are special cars for which originality is important. The 6 blade fan is more than adequate even in Australia's summer heat.

    My daily driver TR2 has a manually operated electric fan. I don't recommend auto fans, if you don't keep an eye on the gauge and the fan fails to come on you can be in serious trouble. You learn quickly to keep an eye on the gauge with a manual fan.

    The yellow plastic TR6 fan is too thick. I don't think it will fit at all but if it does it will be too close to the radiator and will hit the rad under heavy braking, if not before. The 2000 fan is only about 1/4" from the bottom tank of the radiator but has adequate clearance to the core.

  17. On 6/1/2023 at 2:32 AM, Rod1883 said:

    Thanks everyone. Some things for me to try ......

    John - the nipple is quite a way aft of the large rubber bung in the tunnel. Drilling another hole above the nipple location could be another option.

    I'm surprised the nipple isn't somewhere directly under the rubber plug. On my daily driver TR2 it is directly under the rubber and is a bit further aft on my other two sidescreens but easily accessible through the hole.

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