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John McCormack

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Everything posted by John McCormack

  1. You are right, it is running very nicely. I just filled it up and I seem to have improved fuel consumption from about 18mpg around town to 23mpg, admittedly with a longer drive in the middle of around town driving. After some more thought I retarded it a couple of degrees to now 15-16 deg BTDC at 700rpm. I'm going on a longer open road run over the Blue Mountains on Saturday and back Monday. I'll play with it and see where it ends up.
  2. I have physically checked the pulley and the TDC mark is spot on to TDC of No 1 piston. The timing is now set at 18 deg BTDC at 700rpm idle. It advances to about 35 deg at revs. It is a bit hard to measure on your own (the markings only go to 24 deg) and it might be a few deg more than 35 at revs . I set it as described above so there was no pinging under any loads. I then retarded it a couple of deg just to add a margin in case I just couldn't hear the engine pinging. The car is performing superbly with very good power and acceleration. Idles nicely with a slight lumpine
  3. I'll do that to check. As the pulley is keyed onto the crankshaft I see no reason why it won't be right.
  4. As far as I know, and the known history of the car goes back 32 years, it is a stock early CP PI 150bhp engine.
  5. I took the car on a longer run today including a freeway at 110-115 km/h. It is going superbly and there is no pinging at any speed or load. However, when I got home I put the timing light on her and the timing is a lot more advanced than I thought. Closer to 18 degrees BTDC at 750rpm. I intend leaving it where it is, the performance is excellent and I cannot detect any pinging even though I am listening hard for it. Is 18 degrees advanced at idle out of the ordinary?
  6. Yep, the pulley is in the correct position. Interestingly a mate and I have just been through that issue with his TR2. If 12-13 degrees advanced is about right it would explain the better performance. I'm using BP 98 octane no ethanol.
  7. I have been a bit underwhelmed with the get up and go of my 1970 CP PI TR6. The car was idling between 8-900 rpm and was going ok but lacked something. It is a stock engine with Lumenition ignition the only upgrade. The rest of the tune was done recently, tappets, plugs, cap, leads etc but at the time I was unable to adjust the timing, and it seemed ok so I left it. When I started the process yesterday it was about 6 degrees advanced at 850rpm idle. I advanced it by rotating the distributor to around 20 degrees advance at idle, the micrometer adjustment was fully advanced so I h
  8. Most likely the solenoid isn't pulling in properly or adjustment. If the od was working before it is highly unlikely to be an internal problem. The oil must be extraordinarily low for the od not to work. When you engage the overdrive check that the solenoid is pulling up properly. It can click but not pull all the way up. How much it pulls might depend on the application but a good 6mm or 1/4" should be about right. I find with mine the normal use of a bar through the hole in the arm doesn't work with the wear in the overdrives now. I'd suggest you take it a mm or two further than th
  9. Yep, I've replaced a few and the new ones don't fit.
  10. The Skinner kit isn't perfect, but gee it is damn good. The pre and post sales service by John was exceptional, which would see me use Skinners for any upholstery upgrades.
  11. I often have similar issues. It isn't profitable to make quality as most purchases are driven by price.
  12. The long door car gets the occasional chip and sometimes biggish ones, unavoidable on freeways at 110-120km/h with trucks all around and on back roads with gravel edges. That doesn't concern me as the car, while immaculate, gets used and often with vigour. The everyday TR2 has lots of chips, scrapes and the upholstery is often mistaken for the 1954 original, it isn't but was done in 1982 so is now 40 years and 200,000 miles old. I've had this car since February 1976, 46 years this month and, apart from 3 years 1980-83 when I pulled the body off and restored it, it has been my everyday car
  13. Thank you. Done, one more step on the road to getting the car right.
  14. Has anyone a picture of the correct routing of the vacuum advance pipe from the distributor to the front carburetor? I'm after the original factory route.
  15. I agree, to a degree. My daily driver is quite rough around the edges, it has lots of patina. It gets used to do errands, the shopping, take rubbish to the tip and on long interstate drives. I could drive it to Perth with confidence. My long door TR2 is quite immaculate and only goes out on nice days, which happens pretty often here. But I could also drive it to Perth with confidence. My TR6 is somewhere in between, pretty nice but with patina and it gets used just for fun. There is a place for both in my view.
  16. Any pre TS1200 TR2 is good to have but I don't see this as an easy restoration. Yes, you could tidy it up and drive it but it will need a full mechanical restoration first and without a body restoration it will rot away after the first 12 months in the rain. It looks to me that the car needs a complete restoration. At $29,500 US plus another $30,000 or more on a restoration this will be an expensive TR2. Maybe that is just reflective of the increased asking prices down here. What was a $55-60,000 car a year ago is now seeking $80,000.
  17. Yes it does. It is an ex race car and is quite rough around the edges but in excellent mechanical nick.
  18. They made 7500 Morris Cooper S in Australia. At last count 10,000 are still on the road.
  19. An excellent run this morning to our monthly coffee get together south of Sydney. Once out of the city it is a run down the freeway then a climb over what we call Razorback. It gives the cars a great run. A bit warm here in the high 20s C but quite pleasant. I took the long door TR2, there was a gaggle of 3As (another BRG one left before I got the photos) and a couple of our members more modern cars.
  20. The teardrop should rest on its base keeping it clear of the paint work. This sometimes doesn't happen, but it has on mine.
  21. I have the original steering on both my TR2s. Others drive them and say they wouldn't swap to r&p if they can get their steering as good as mine. Owners often praise their change to r&p but when asked what they are comparing it to it is invariably their worn out poorly maintained steering box. Yes r&p can improve the steering in some areas, but it is not necessary to fit r&p to achieve excellent steering. And you would lose your original steering wheel horn and indicators which, to me, are very much part of the cars character.
  22. Moss answered my query within hours. I'll include two of these in our Moss order. Thanks all for the advice.
  23. Also a good idea Bob. I have a largish order for a few of us with Moss. They don't have a picture for the hose, I assume it is right angled at one end and long enough to go from the heater to the firewall?
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