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John McCormack

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Posts posted by John McCormack

  1. I'm in Sydney and my cars only get to 185 in heavy traffic. On the road they don't get much above 165 even on 35degC + days.

    I have aa TR2 and TR3 so have the ducting from the apron. I also use a Tridon thermostat recommended above with a restrictor in the bypass in the TR3 and a skirted thermostat in the TR2.

    The TR2 has an electric fan manually operated and I rarely turn it on, even in the traffic I experience living close to the city in the inner west. The TR3 has a 6 bladed Triumph 2000 metal fan, they are great if you can get one.

    It appears there is either a blockage in your cooling system, the bypass isn't restricted with a non-skirted thermostat or there is some other issue.

    There are a lot of TR Register Australia members in Melbourne who would be able to give you a hand.

  2. If you have doubts and don't want to short out the entire car I'd suggest you disconnect the cable from the battery to the solenoid and replace it with a piece of wire that has a 30 amp fuse in it. If anything is really wired incorrectly it will just blow the fuse.

  3. 12 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    Hi James,

    When I fit tonneau with sidescreens I have the passenger side tonneau fitted to the pegs on the scuttle dash top and the 2nd or upper 1/4 panel peg, not the one down by the B post.   Lift the tonneau before you close the door forming a V shaped channel front to rear,  This catches rain that runs to the side and lets it drip out the channel on the 1/4 panel area.

    On the half height sidescreens I can do the first method or as I have now fitted pegs secure it to the outside of the sidescreen

     

    There is also the technique known to myself and KW as the ‘Davis Fold’. This gets the tonneau neatly folded and set behind the seats.   It is good for 100 mph without billowing I  am reliably told.

    As can be seen my tonneau is a later type with gussets( ooo err Matron) These do allow an easier movement of the seat belt.   The other benefit is that the hood can be up and the tonneau on.  You attach the two centre fasteners at the back of the tonneau to the car after erecting the frame but before fitting the soft top.  John Davis took this trick one further to have a tonneau that fitted under the hard top when no sidescreens are fitted ( horrid things in traffic as the inside of the car becomes a sauna.). John used to drive VYP88 his primrose yellow 3A  all seasons.  The car is still with him but undergoing repairs.  
     

     Here are  photos of my old blue banger and the tonneau fit and fold methods I use.   First 3 are the Davis Fold which works for both full and half tonneau use.

     

     

    IMG_2534.jpeg

    IMG_2535.jpeg

    IMG_2537.jpeg

    IMG_2538.jpeg

    IMG_2539.jpeg

    IMG_2540.jpeg

    IMG_2541.jpeg

    IMG_2542.jpeg

    IMG_2543.jpeg

    IMG_2544.jpeg

    IMG_2546.jpeg

    Same.

  4. On 3/6/2024 at 11:15 PM, stuart said:

    Oh dear shame about the front cover .

    Stuart.

    ???

    A fine TR that is a bit different to the normal car downunder.

    A few of us attended the Revival in 2015. A very memorable weekend.

  5. A few months back we did a survey of our members with the results published in our magazine, Sidescreen. 

    We asked for the age demographic of our members. The Register here is a bit different to elsewhere, it is a sidescreen only club, but my observation is that all classic car clubs have the same demographic.

    Copy attached. I hope you can open it, if not let me know.

    Enjoy.

    https://trregister.azurewebsites.net/documents/sidescreens/jgc5nax0.pdf

  6. 17 hours ago, ianc said:

    I would be concerned at the **** which blocked both drain cocks and the bypass hose - and possibly the heater circuit.  Suggests that the whole inside of the water system needs to be thoroughly cleaned, then filled with 25% antifreeze, changed every 2 years (or Evans Waterless, which doesn't need to be changed).

    Heater circuit can be purged using a hand-held water pump, or, if careful with the pressure, a hose from the mains.

    Drain cocks: there seem to be two types, one with cock open when lever aligned to flow, the other opposite - can be very confusing!  My brother had a TR3 on which we found the cock on the cylinder was open - but there was so much **** in the block that no leakage could occur.

    Ian Cornish

    We've had a couple of bad experiences with the Evans waterless coolant.

    Cars have overheated for whatever reason and, as the coolant doesn't boil and the driver isn't checking the gauge, the engines got hot enough for the oil to break down. Two badly siezed engines.

    I've been recommending owners not to use it. 

    I'd be interested in any stories on its use over there.

  7. Ahh, if only the factory had built them like this. More would have survived, but they would have been unaffordable in the day.

    I get a great deal of satisfaction seeing a body being completed as good as this. 

  8. On 2/16/2024 at 8:36 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    That is how the engineering drawing shews it.   Flat face to the splines collet/collar. Tapering face toward the nut.   There should be a smaller flat on that washer for the nut to seat against 

    IMG_2362.jpeg

    Thank you. Got it.

    My intention is to fit the bearing to the axle so that if I need it it can be easily fitted.

  9. 20 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    The  dome into the axle flange, flat against the washer, nut against the washer.

    Pushes the whole lot into the flange compressing the splits in the spline to grip the spllne end of half shaft.

    Image from the workshop maual

     

    image.png.f6937317bdb56eaceaeb9939328b6acf.png

     

    Thanks Peter,

    My apologies, it is the washer part 53 that is domed one side and flat the other. The flat side goes against part 51??

  10. I acquired the subject TR2 in Feb 2017 and with a great deal of help from people on this forum completed a full restoration putting it back on the road in mid 2019. The car won the 2022 TR Register Concours and both the 2022 and 2023 TSOA concours. I have covered near 9,000kms in it and it is a truly delightful TR on the road.

    In 2022 I acquired a very low mileage two owner TR3 so my garage was full with no room for a family car. I needed to move one on.

    The TR2 has been sold to a young Australian enthusiast from Victoria who will, I hope, be the custodian for a very long time. He comes from a TR family and I couldn't have asked for a better new owner. I didn't advertise the car widely as I only wanted it to go to someone I thought would use it regularly and maintain it in its current form.

    I took a photo of my gaggle of TRs before the red TR2 leaves the nest. I doubt I will ever have four of them again.

     

     

    Four TRs 4.jpg

  11. When I acquired my CKD Australian assembled TR3 it came with a spare Lockheed axle with all the parts, bearing and seal in the boot. 

    I've just been inspecting it all to make sure it is all there and in good condition.

    My question is when assembling the axle which way do the parts 51 and 53 go. The 51 that came with the car has a flat and a domed side.image.thumb.png.9d67fb9cb986d14cec8151f8ddc736a4.pngparts 

  12. Modern plugs don't like getting wet. If they have been soaked I suggest you replace the plugs and the condenser.

    I'm 95% it is the condenser. I've been through a lot of them in the past 5 years. I have kept points only on my Concours TR2, the others have electronic ignition.

    If you stay with the points I'd recommend you get a Distributor Doctor condenser, the Moss ones are useless.

  13. Haven't started since Saturday when it started immediately on the first crank after 30-40 seconds priming.

    Just now 30 seconds priming, cranking for 2-3 seconds and then on the second crank it started almost immediately.

    Last week I replaced the plugs with Accuspark centre electrode AC9C plugs. They do seem to have made a noticeable difference to starting and to engine performance.

  14. They won't be the same side to side. One drum will be worn more or the shoes have worn unevenly. It shouldn't make any difference to the brake adjustment.

    Push the brake pedal hard to centre the shoes.

    Turn both the adjusters clockwise until the shoes are hard against the drum.

    Back off both adjusters one click and see how the wheel turns. If still dragging back off one adjuster one click and see how the wheel turns. If dragging back off the other adjuster one click. Repeat until both the shoes are just lightly touching the drum and the wheel rotates freely.

    Sometimes it is only one shoe that is dragging so by doing it one at a time you will get the best outcome.

  15. The usual (90%) reason an engine won't start is ignition. Of the other 10%, 90% are still ignition.

    If it kicks occasionally and you have done the condenser I'd replace the coil. These two are the usual culprits. 

    Then work through each of the remaining components, one at a time.

    I carry a spare set of all the ignition components in the boot for long tours. It makes it easy to replace each component one at a time to isolate the cause and then replace the defective component in the boot. 

  16. I've removed the dynamo many times over many years.

    I remove the driver's side horn and radiator support for better access.

    1/2" spanners for the rear and top bolts. For the rear bolt put a ring spanner on the bolt or nut (whichever is under the dynamo) with your right hand. A ring spanner or open ender and undo the nut/bolt where you can see it. When you refit it make sure you put the bolt in from the front so the nut is always visible. You can then visually check it is tight and it is easier to do the nut up/undo it than the bolt.

    Socket on a short extension for the front bolt. 

    Refitting I do the rear bolt first then the adjusting bolt and nut, leaving both loose. Put the belt over the pulley (you might need to remove the rear bolt to get the belt over the pulley, put it back in to support the weight) then fit the front lower bolt. It is done by feel but it isn't difficult.

     

     

  17. I have three TRs.

    The choke is back in on all of them within 500 metres of driving. They will idle a bit slow, about 500-600 rpm. Once fully warm they idle at 750-800 rpm. All three cars have engines at different modification states but they all start and warm up the same so it shouldn't make any difference if your car engine has a few mods.

    Do not ever warm the engine up at idle. Start driving as soon as you can after start.

  18. On 1/6/2024 at 10:02 AM, John McCormack said:

    This morning I gave her full choke, didn't touch the accelerator pedal and let the pump run for 30-40 seconds before cranking. Started immediately.

    It is only once but maybe it was my starting technique that was the problem.

    Again today, full choke and let the pump run for 30+ seconds and it started immediately. I didn't start yesterday so it was 48 hours between starts.

    It might be a answer to other PI owners who experience starting problems. 

  19. I write 1 to 12 (1 2 3 4 etc) on a piece of paper and tick them off.

    The major issue with doing them by ear is you close the gap too much and increase the risk the valves aren't closing properly. Burnt out valves and seats and loss of performance and fuel economy.

     

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