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John McCormack

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Posts posted by John McCormack

  1. 5 hours ago, Mr Blue Sky said:

    I think I have a usable heater/core sat on the shelf.  Not sure how you'd get it to Oz for a reasonable price?

    If it is in good condition and you can get it pressure tested, I'd happily pay the freight to Australia.

    How much do you want for it? Can you send me some close-up photos?

    Thank you.

  2. That is what my spare one did. To test the bulb just put a lead from your active battery terminal to the centre terminal on the flasher unit. The dashboard indicator globe should light up. If it doesn't it will be either the globe or the wiring to it

  3. On 5/8/2022 at 6:14 PM, Lebro said:

    Why not fit a modern "blinker box" - much more reliable.  They can be altered to fit inside an original metal can (I have done a few)

    Bob

    They fail pretty rarely, cost next to nothing and it is 5 minutes to replace. The new one I bought from a reputable supplier rather than a Moss one is working very well, better than previous ones I've used. 

  4. Blinker box might be an Australian slang term I picked up off my father many years ago. I think the unit in dad's old Cambridge or Morrie might have been rectangular. Anyway, it is a common term amongst older car people here.

    I had a spare laying around in my garage, fitted it in 5 minutes. Blinkers work, dash light doesn't. Probably a defective blinker box but thought it could be the globe failed. Contort left forearm under the dash (Smiths heater fitted) and replace globe. 1 hour. Dash light still doesn't work.

    Note a loose/broken wire under dash. Centre dash lights not working. The wire from the panel light switch is too short to resolder back onto the terminal. Now need to remove panel light switch and fit a longer wire.

    A 5-minute job becomes 3 hours. Why do I do this?

    I don't drive this car at night, or haven't yet. It can wait.

  5. The indicator light on my original TR2 stays on permanently with the ignition on. The indicators aren't working. All other electrics are working normally.

    The car is completely original. 

    I'm assuming the blinker box has failed. I gave it a tap or two with no effect.

    Anything else I should look at?

    IMG_0781.jpg

  6. On 2/5/2022 at 6:52 PM, John McCormack said:

    Interesting as I've had a similar experience.

    Since my last post I went back to basics and didn't assume everything was OK. I checked float levels, slightly too high. The needles were set with the bridge at the jet holder level not against the bottom of the piston.

    I corrected both to the book and now I can get a too lean mixture at full up on the adjusting nut. Using the Colourtune I get a blue flame about 3 flats down so have set the mixture one flat further down with an orange flame.

    I've been driving and playing with this car for 46 years and am still learning (or maybe re-learning) ways to make it perform properly. The car is driving better than it has for many years.

     

    After a short while the same problem, too rich at idle with the nuts all the way up and not rich enough at speed, returned.

    I fitted a spare set of carbies I had and it transformed the car. Mixture can be set accurately, and it idles and performs really well.

    I took the suspect carbies to an excellent SU man we have here and he just rang me that he has replaced the jets which were worn. He said there is no sign the needles weren't centred; it was just the amount of use that had worn the jets.

    I will continue with the set on the car for a few tanks of petrol and then think about fitting the overhauled ones.

  7. On 4/19/2022 at 4:21 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:

    Afraid it sounds like the head gasket, had it been retorqued since it's initial rebuild and torque 10 years ago ?

    Mick Richards

    PS: The Evans waterless coolant is a bit contentious but our own cars are our own choices.

    We have had a few cars with the Evans coolant suffer major engine damage. Most recently in the past month requiring, I understand, a full rebuild.

    I don't know the cause but my gut feel is that the Evans coolant allows the engine to run too hot causing a breakdown in the oil properties.

    Any knowledgeable advice would be welcomed.

  8. 20 hours ago, CP26309 said:

    Timing aside...I once had a sluggish response to throttle after I had replaced various rubber pipes and hoses, and it turned out to be a blockage in the vacuum rubber hose that goes from the inlet manifold to the M/U! I discovered this by simply blowing down the M/U end...and I couldn't!  A new rubber hose restored all the missing Oomph again!  Just a thought!

    What was blocking it? Had it collapsed inside?

  9. 9 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

    At 4k rpm the dizzy should be maximally advanced - aim for around 32 degrees btc and you should be about right in terms of performance and avoiding pinking.

    As I noted in the other post it is about 35 deg BTDC above 3-3,500 rpm. 

    I have a good ear for pinging and it wasn't pinging under any conditions with it set at 18 deg BTDC at idle. I retarded it 3 deg to be on the safe side.

    I had to get our equivalent of an MOT this morning and took it to our Triumph specialist. He took it out and agreed it isn't pinging.

  10. 10 hours ago, Mick Forey said:

    John, what is the maximum advance at say 4,000rpm? What fuel do you use?

    Mick

    As best as I can read it, it is 35 deg BTDC above 3-3,500. I only went to an engine speed where it stopped advancing which was about 3,500.

    I always use BP 98 and we don't have ethanol in such fuels here.

  11. On 3/28/2022 at 10:31 PM, Graham Harris said:

    Front and back without the body

    GrahamP1010119.thumb.JPG.10b54bdd5db788fad92f9b2bd8f8a5dd.JPGP1010123.thumb.JPG.566bd8cf8a2649fea442714bf048acc5.JPG

    Those bump stop rubbers need to be better located, or the straps bent, to ensure the rubber hits the rebound straps. If the bump stop doesn't stop the axle the shock absorber can move beyond its range and break internally.

    I had both disintegrate internally on a high speed bump a few years ago. It was very touch and go for a few seconds.

  12. 14 hours ago, stuart said:

    The above is correct location, the Moss replacements are OK just make sure you test before fitting. One of my pet hates is when people have spent a fortune on a resto and then fitted cheap plastic horns.

    Stuart.

    No risk there Stuart. I haven't spent anything restoring this car, it is a survivor. It was painted in the 90s, a very nice job but only on external surfaces. The interior is almost as built with a walnut dash.

    The car has an interesting history. The owner I bought it off only did 2,000 miles in his 3 years, the owner before him 5,000 miles in 22 years. He worked in China so only used the car a week or so a year. I have all the records since 1990 and the car has done 28,000 miles in 32 years. I've done 12,500 of them in my 5 years. 

    I did do a fair bit of mechanical work; CV axles, suspension bushes, new shocks all round, rebuilt r&p, rocker gear, thrust washers, new oil pump, cleaned the sump out, repadded the seats, bought a new soft top and acquired a hardtop.

    Cavity wax went everywhere I could get it in.

    It gets used quite a lot in all weathers. 

     

  13. 10 hours ago, DRD said:

    John - any difference with 18 deg BTDC?

    Cheers Darren

    To be honest not really.

    I think it might have dropped a few percent in torque and performance, but I feel a bit more comfortable that it won't ping/knock.

    There was no detectable pinging at 18 but, especially at speed under load, you won't always be able to hear it.

    The car has a good 10% improvement in performance and nearer 15-20% better fuel consumption than it did before I advanced the timing.

  14. On 3/16/2022 at 12:59 AM, Motorsport Mickey said:

    And as for TR5s it’s to their owners credit that for a small build model there are so many remaining :ph34r: and in excellent condition having been totally renovated.

    Mick Richards

    They built 7,500 Mini Cooper S in Australia. 15,000 of them are still on the road. Quite remarkable!

  15. 10 minutes ago, Atl TR6 said:

    replacement horns similar in shape, mounted on the original brackets.

    100_4290.JPG

    Thank you. The mounting bracket is still on my car so new horns are needed.

    Moss have them at a reasonable price. Are they any good?

  16. This happened to my car which had been rarely used before I bought it.

    The easiest thing to check for flooding like this (and the most likely cluprit) is the enrichment lever on the metering unit. You will see it where the cable attaches to it on the engine side of the metering unit.

    Put your finger down between the block and the metering unit and you will feel the actual lever (the cable is attached to an extension). Push this lever very hard towards the back of the engine. I am confident you will feel it move back to the off position.

    Spray lots of WD 40 or equivalent down there and moved it backwards and forwards for a few minutes. It should lubricate it and free it up. Mine hasn't had a problem for 3 or so years now.

  17. The weekend trip went superbly.

    It was raining quite heavily on Saturday which revealed very few and only minor leaks in the passenger side of the cockpit. The weather cleared up and I drove home yesterday in the dry, good for drying the water out of the various places it gets trapped.

    Exactly 400kms covered with a combination of high speed, 110 or so km/h, and 80 km/h going up the mountain and back down. I detoured into Katoomba on the way back to walk around the abandoned Catalina Park racetrack where my BRG TR2 raced in the 60s.

    The car performed very well indeed. It pulled well from above 1500rpm in top and od, I rarely had to disengage the od going up the mountain above 70 km/h, 4th down to 55-60 km/h. It revs freely and powerfully to around 4500rpm (my self-imposed limit) in 2nd and 3rd.

    No pinging or knocking. Plugs a nice colour.

    Fuel consumption averaged 27mpg, 10.51 lt/100kms. On a less hilly trip it would probably do a bit better.

    Timing is on 15 deg BTDC at 700rpm idle.

    Very pleased.

  18. On 7/27/2015 at 6:43 PM, stuart said:

    Position is right brackets are not, they normally sit flat, the way yours are would allow the horns to fill up with water.

    Stuart.

    I'm revisiting this horn mounting. Mine has air horns and I don't like them.

    Can someone please post a photo of the correct mounting arrangement?

  19. On 12/18/2021 at 2:47 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    Had me going there for a minute.  

    I’d never seen one in the flesh let alone fitted until doing a web search and finding this.

     

    7F3E8325-BB31-43DF-B9DB-D03B7B4715EC.png

    Owned by Chris Olson, TR Register Australia member. I'm going to his farm tomorrow for a weekend working bee.

    The car next to it is also an Australia Register owner. It has a 6 cylinder PI engine in it, but the original block is with the car. 

  20. 2 hours ago, Waldi said:

    The Blue Mountains, that sounds like magic. Enjoy the tour.

    Waldi

    Called the Blue Mountains because when viewed from a distance they appear blue because the eucalypt leaves contain an oil and emit an 'oil' type vapour.

    When I was younger and Sydney smaller the mountains could appear a deep blue. You don't see it quite as much now with Sydney growing and more pollution. In a westerly wind it is still a sight.

    The eucalypt oil is a major reason our bush fires are so intense, and trees can explode although not touched by the actual fire. 

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