JohnC

Wot he sed

Sounds to me like badly wrong timing. All the other suggestions here would certainly contribute to rough running, but not (I think) to the extent of farting and banging. To repeat and add to what's been said so far: have you checked that TDC as marked on the pulley is *really* TDC? Is static timing 11 BTDC and not 11 ATDC? Have you got the firing order correct (1-5-3-6-2-4)? My Leyland manual has 6&4 transposed... And do you have a spark on all plugs? Please do make sure you report back on progress. We always learn something. Good luck, John

I love that TR drivers are considered so svelte

They are indeed a good read, and the table should take the guesswork out of camber adjustment. I love the precision of the work. Somebody has too much time on their hands Anyway, I think I'll go with the brown book spec, following John's recommendation of loading as well. Cheers, John

Hi John, Where does that guidance come from? Is it in the specifications section or somewhere more obscure? That's exactly what I was looking for in my books but couldn't find it. Thanks, John

Hi brains trust, Please would you help me get the camber correct on my '71 TR6 CP. The car is presently in a workshop on a hoist is so it's an ideal time to check. BTW, am I correct to assume that "two-up condition" referred to in the manual means "there need to be two people in the car when you check the geometry"? Or does it mean "set up unladen in the expectation the car willl be driven with two people in it"? I have three sources, each giving different info: A pdf copy of the TR6 Repair Operation Manual, Second Edition. Brown cover, publication 545277/E2, page 04.3: 1 degr

Don't you love autocorrect? I'm pretty sure you mean "starvation " Andy, try running the engine with the filler cap open. If that doesn't fix the problem (and I'm betting it won't as you haven't mentioned changing anything in that area), then you have something in the feed to the pump. It's just possible the PRV is at fault, but that would be permanent, and it sounds like you can at least start the engine. There's a toenail clipping, or a cockroach, or a small plastic soldier, or maybe even a bit of dirt in the line. Please provide photographs when you find it. Good luck, John

Thanks Peter. I may be wrong, but I think the Hankook Kinergy is still one of the "long mileage" tyres. Yes, it's not a van tyre, but still not a soft compound. I'm probably being precious, as I only drive the car on the road in what I hope is no more than <ahem> a responsibly spirited manner, but I'd like a tyre designed for handling and grip over longevity. I wrote my TR6 off 18 months ago by spinning coming out of a roundabout. At 40kmh. Old tyres I think. That was scary, but I still can't afford the Pirelli/Michelin period-appropriate tyres. But the Hankook tyre is on the list. Right

I had similar symptoms about 30 years ago. Turned out to be a small piece of plastic bag which was blocking the intake to the fuel filter. No idea how it got there. Anyway, as Roy said, it sounds like a restriction in your fuel supply, which is causing the pump to cavitate. Do report back once you've fixed the problem. Cheers, John

And what is "this"?

May seem like a stupid question, but please bear with me. How do modern light truck/van tyres compare with the tyres our cars were fitted with in the '70s? Here in Oz the only locally-available 165/80R15 tyres are made for vans, and all the advertising info indicates that longevity is the primary consideration. Now I realise that the horrifically expensive 165s I can get from overseas will be vastly superior to van tyres, but how do van modern tyres compare to 1970's tyre technology? I expect I'll go for the195/65 option in the end. I had hoped to try a set of Radar 185/70 but our importe

Totally agree. There are many "improvements" that only improve the wealth of the vendor. Like an external oil feed to rockers (on a standard engine). Or an oil cooler for a daily driver in the UK. Or, just possibly, braided fuel lines... Sometimes it's best to make sure each & every component of the original system is working as designed.

Yes. I *think* there's an exemption here for a "registered restoration". Whatever that is. I'm confronted by some serious paintwork in the near future and I expect I'll need to choose a non-cellulose option. Any advice?

Yes and before I added the balance pipe, performance aside, it sounded like an angry bird was following me whenever the engine was on over-run!

I only just read this post. I love that observation

@stuart Is cellulose paint still available in the UK? I'm pretty sure it's not here. At least not from the main retailers. Definitely not in touch-up rattle cans. Cheers, John

I have compared a TT1200 6-2 (not 6-2-1; it went into a twin pipe system with a balance pipe further back) with a standard cast iron manifold. Same dyno, no other changes, and the engine was bog standard CP. The cast iron manifold generated ~10-15 lb.ft more torque until 4000RPM, and at 4500RPM both were about equal. The 6-2 then generated about 5 lb.ft more until 5500RPM, where I stopped. The 6-2 manifold max power was ~5bhp more than the OE cast iron, but not until over 5000RPM. My conclusion (borne out by the opinion of others better qualified) is that the TT1200 is much better suited

And switch to LEDs. Lights up the car like a fairground ride, even with iffy earthing!

I'm sure you'll find it a delight to fit and use. I just hope that Alasdair doesn't mind you mis-spelling his name

Wayne Scott has it in hand

But is there a nut behind the wheel?

Sorry, senior moment - I have a Motolita wheel so the original setup may be different... John

But, either way, it sounds like you're right. There should be a metal contact extending from the small nut in the centre of the horn push to make contact with the end of the pencil. The problem is always related in some way to the nut at the wheel... John

There should be a hole in the boss with a spring-loaded horn pencil in it (plastic tube with metal contacts either end). That connects the ring to a contact on the horn push, which in turn is grounded via the boss.